Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Vogue

The Fall/Winter ’18 runway pulled inspiration from across the globe, as well as the decades. The most prevailing constant: strong women. Through the lens of female empowerment, beauty inspirations came by way of deconstructed glamour, eighties R&B, and the smooth texture of a suede glove. Here, Maybelline New York’s top makeup artists forge a new mood with beauty interpretations that go from runway to the real world, and are as fresh as ever. CUSHNIE ET OCHS: CARLY OCHS Cushnie et Ochs’ Fall/Winter ’18 show—which happened to be their ten-year anniversary show—was a stunning display of their signature architectural aesthetic, inspired by Zaha Hadid, with cool cutouts, column silhouettes, and, amid their signature neutrals, lush cameos by hot-pink satin, air-light feathers, and sumptuous fur and velvet. Makeup artist for Maybelline New…

IN RETROSPECT, THE FIRST TRIES at selling fashion online were a little lame. They offered fashion to the world as if the world were merely New York, Paris, London, and Milan—as if the rest of the globe were off the fashion map. The Montreal-based team at Ssense—a Canadian e-commerce platform that carries more than 400 designers from around the world, from Comme des Garçons and Kenzo to sidewalk-friendly hiking boots by Alyx—like to think of themselves as expert outsiders. They’re the sort of people who are OK with living everywhere else, which might just be why they relate so well to the rest of the world. Ssense, in other words, sees globalism as not just positive but progressive—and it’s a part of the company’s DNA: Cofounder and CEO Rami Atallah…

IT’S A CHILD’S MISTAKE to believe that the adults around us are all grown up. Just ask Joe Brinson (Ed Oxenbould), the hero of Paul Dano’s directorial debut, Wildlife, a stinging new family drama set in 1960s Montana. This diffident fourteen-year-old watches his parents’ marriage crumble when his feckless father, Jerry (Jake Gyllenhaal), heads off to fight a forest fire, sending his upbeat mother, Jeanette (Carey Mulligan), into a crisis—and the arms of a more worldly man (ever-superb Bill Camp). Working from Richard Ford’s novel, Dano (who co-wrote the script with Zoe Kazan) operates in a spare style clearly attuned to his actors, particularly the Australian Oxenbould and the touchingly restrained Gyllenhaal. As for Mulligan, she’s never been better, teasing out every nuance of Jeanette’s passage from plucky warmth to…

Tourists have long flocked to Chile’s Mars-like Atacama Desert or to wind-whipped Patagonia, but when locals want to get away, they almost always end up in scenic Pucón—a small resort town at the center of the country’s Lake District. Located midway through the sliver that is Chile, the region is famous for its sapphire- and cerulean-blue pools (formed by rivers descending from the Andes) that reflect the snow-dusted peaks of volcanoes nearby. This dramatic backdrop made it a perfect location for andBeyond’s latest expansion out of Africa, where the travel company has established itself as the go-to purveyor of deluxe safaris. Setting up camp just 25 minutes outside Pucón, andBeyond Vira Vira is situated between the towering Villarrica volcano and the Liucura River. Twelve mid-century-style wood-paneled villas are decorated with…

“IT’S GREAT TO BE back in London again!” says Riccardo Tisci as he takes up the reins at Burberry. “There’s been such an incredible evolution since I studied at Central Saint Martins nearly 20 years ago—I really feel the change. But one thing that always remains in this city is its diverse energy and incredible spirit. It’s what I loved so much as a student, and it’s something that’s so important in my work now at Burberry.” Tisci could hardly be a better standard-bearer for the creative free flow of talent, ideas, and trade that is fashion’s modus operandi: an Italian, tutored in British-style individualism, who honed his couture skills in Paris at the top of a luxury house (Givenchy, which he helmed from 2005 to 2017) and is now…

MOSCOW-BORN GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY, 34, surprised the fashion world earlier this year by announcing the end—at least in its seasonal capacity—of his namesake line. His many ardent fans, though, needn’t worry—he’s got plenty in the pipeline: In July, Rubchinskiy opened a skate shop in Moscow, Oktyabr, named after a Russian skate team, and he’s further developing his skate line, Paccbet (pronounced rassviet—it means “sunrise” in Russian), launched with skateboarder Tolia Titaev. Rubchinskiy made major waves with his label, founded in 2008 and later backed by Comme des Garçons, which delivered a singularly cool viewpoint of Russian youth culture to a global audience. His homeland-as-aesthetic muse—Cyrillic writing, tracksuits, clubwear influenced by late-Soviet-era underground parties—depicted Russia as a vibrant place with a community of people who share contemporary values and lifestyles (an especially…

In April 2016, Hedi Slimane revealed that, after a rollicking four-year tenure marked by his compulsive and convulsive rewriting of the house’s most revered codes, he was leaving Saint Laurent. Then, in January of this year, the news broke that Slimane was heading to Céline to replace the departed Phoebe Philo—another seismic jolt to the system, one amplified by the briefest of statements (Slimane has long been a man of few words but many actions) outlining that in addition to women’s collections there would also be, for the first time, a Céline collection for men, as well as haute couture in due course—or his version of it, at least. Though these two events both occurred within 24 months, given the hyperspeed at which everything turns these days you might as…

IN LATE MAY OF THIS YEAR, Nicolas Ghesquière took to Instagram, where he announced to his nearly 700,000 followers: “Happy to renew my commitment with the beautiful house of @louisvuitton.” A week later, he presented his cruise collection for 2019 at the Fondation Maeght in the south of France. Inspired by the eccentricity of the museum’s founders, Marguerite and Aimé Maeght, it was his loosest, most spirited offering to date for the label, an eclectic mash-up of sharp tailoring played against soft dresses, delicate peignoirs and ruffled bloomers, hand-painted denim, techno–sneaker boots, and collectible bags made in collaboration with Vogue’s Grace Coddington. Reflecting on his decision a month later, Ghesquière said, “We’re opening another chapter of our story, and the trust we built in the years together is helping me…

IN AN INDUSTRIAL POCKET OF the Bronx, sandwiched between a wastewater-treatment facility and an MTA lot, is a tiny road named Tiffany Street. On a humid summer afternoon, Tiffany Haddish is three short blocks away, eating an Egg White Delight McMuffin and hash browns in a bare, windowless conference room that has been designated for our interview. Since Haddish’s breakout role in last year’s Girls Trip, she has voiced a very specific aspiration: to set up a community center for young people raised in foster care, as she herself was. She imagines building it on two intersecting streets, “Tiffany” and “Haddish.” The actress doesn’t have children of her own, but she wants to be “a mentor, a mother, a guide,” she says. So when I tell her about the homonymous…

UNDER RUSTED LAMPPOSTS on a dusty street in a postwar Naples neighborhood, the wiry and fierce Lila Cerullo marches past an old man roasting chestnuts and kids kicking a soccer ball made of string. She sees her best friend, Lenù Greco, along with other girls in buckled shoes and buttoned sweaters, swooning over the handsome Solara brothers. “You don’t know anything,” Lila says. “They are dangerous.” As she storms off, the girls mock her as jealous. In Neapolitan dialect, Lenù calls out for her to wait. “Stop-a!” comes a voice from afar, and a boom microphone over the girls’ heads lifts away. The chestnut roaster pulls out a novel, the extras check their cell phones, and the acclaimed Italian film director Saverio Costanzo races out of a white tent to…

THEY EMERGE FROM BACKSTAGE, gliding down the runway cloaked and hooded, burying their considerable lights under swaths of fabric, concealing their coiffures and shrouding their lovely faces. At Dior Couture, veiling darkens their visages but is open at the eyes, like the world’s chicest ski mask; at Gucci, a literal ski mask tops a turquoise pirate shirt. A tightly wrapped balaclava accompanies an ensemble that drips multiple strands of trademark pearls at Chanel; at Valentino, it’s babushkas tied in back, under the hair, a luxurious interpretation of a style whose roots reside in folklore. And the British designer Richard Quinn, whose show is famously attended by the queen, outdoes them all: He smothers his models’ faces entirely under brightly printed scarves, causing you to wonder how they will even find…

Audrey Gelman climbs the curling marble staircase of a stately Haussmann address in a vintage paisley sundress, the clap of her Gucci mules kicking up a thin layer of dust. It is the longest day of the year, and she and Lauren Kassan, cofounders of the women’s social-and-co-working club the Wing, have been touring Paris real estate since 9:00 a.m. They will visit eleven locations by the end of the day. This one is a corner building on the Champs-Élysées with exquisite marble work in the stairwell and Rococo wall murals in the conference rooms. The first-floor tenant is Ladurée, the megalith macaronier whose pastel hues match the Wing’s decor. There was a time when a box of the meringue cookies was a coveted gift from France; now that Ladurée…

For more than 20 years, accidental jeweler Pippa Small (a trained anthropologist and human-rights activist) has crafted earthy bohemian bijoux that do far more than add a touch of glitz to the wearer. Her jewelry is a source of income and the beginning of a return to normalcy for its makers—displaced craftsmen and aspiring artisans living as refugees across the Middle East and Southeast Asia. In partnership with the NGO Turquoise Mountain, founded by the Prince of Wales, the London-based Small turned her attention to Jordan, where she supports a predominantly Syrian-run workshop in Amman. The first collection features handcrafted hammered-gold rings, lush with vines and pomegranates, and feather-thin filigree pendants. Pieces carry whispers of the makers’ heritage but also bear a fresh, universal appeal. As Small explains, “You have…

THE ATELIER OF THE LEGENDARY costume house founded by self-described “fashion archaeologist” Umberto Tirelli in 1964 and now run by the effusive Dino Trappetti is located on the lower floors of a pink Liberty-style villa in Rome, garlanded with wisteria and nostalgic charm. Marcello Mastroianni once lived upstairs, and in a high-ceilinged, light-filled room downstairs, Rupert Everett is holding court with costume designers Maurizio Millenotti and Giovanni Casalnuovo, who have worked on his directorial debut, The Happy Prince, based on Oscar Wilde’s life in exile after his infamous 1895 trials and his subsequent incarceration at Reading Gaol. The movie has been a labor of love for Everett, an eight-year process during which he proved his credentials by starring to great acclaim as Wilde in a revival of David Hare’s play…

FRENCH-GIRL STYLE Remember when Audrey Hepburn, playing a chauffeur’s daughter in Sabrina, went to Paris and came back to Long Island a model of sophistication and polish? Who among us has not dreamed of channeling the legendary allure of the quintessential French girl with the élan of Françoise Hardy, the offhand cool of Charlotte Gainsbourg, the sultry street stylings of girl of the moment Jeanne Damas? No matter where you live, the skill with which a Parisienne ties her scarf and the insouciant way she pairs a classic striped marinière shirt with trousers that flaunt just the right amount of flare—and flair—continue to enchant. Even all-American classics like jeans can cross the Atlantic with panache: Just add a chic short-handled bag, tuck in a perfectly fitted pullover, and gaze out…

KARL LAGERFELD MIGHT BE the original boundary-breaking fashion designer. Raised in bourgeois comfort in Hamburg, he set off for Paris and Pierre Balmain’s studio when he was a teenager and his work caught the attention of the couturier. Soon bored at Balmain, he left to become the head designer at the staid house of Jean Patou, but he was soon bored there, too, and, disillusioned with the world of the haute couture, left for Rome to study his favorite composer, Bellini. In 1965, however, he met the quintet of formidable Fendi sisters: By his own estimate, he has since traveled to Rome 800 times. In 1982, Alain Wertheimer hired Lagerfeld to revamp Chanel. “When I came to Chanel, I said to Mr. Wertheimer, ‘Let’s make a pact, like Faust with…

AS A TEENAGER GROWING UP in a small town north of Tokyo in the early 1980s, Undercover founder Jun Takahashi was influenced mainly by British youth culture. At thirteen, he was listening to the Clash and the Sex Pistols. “I was shocked by the pink-and-yellow cover of Never Mind the Bollocks …,” he recalls. “Visually shocked, and also shocked by their music, which was more aggressive than anything I had ever heard.” Though Takahashi went so far as to become the lead singer of a Sex Pistols cover band (“It was so bad,” he says, wincing), he was particularly drawn to the “idea or philosophy of punk—breaking the rules—but also to different types of cultures that had a twist. I was always attracted not just to the light but to…

“WHEN I TELL PEOPLE I’m from Cali, they think I mean California,” says designer Johanna Ortiz. Trace a line about three and a half thousand miles southeast of L.A. and you’ll land on Ortiz’s actual hometown in Colombia—a place that’s unofficially known as the salsa capital of the world. There’s no mistaking the tropical sway of her clothes, either: Hothouse flowers and foliage are recurring leitmotifs in her collections, and the tumbling ruffled asymmetric dresses that put her on the map seem primed for dancing, as do her new fringed Sevillian silk pieces. (At a recent dinner for the designer in New York, guests including Huma Abedin, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Alexa Chung were up on their feet twirling in the label’s swishy party looks to the sounds of a…

“WE’RE IN A TIME where this wash of humanity is truly influencing—upstream—what fashion will become,” says Virgil Abloh. The indefatigable multitasker is the designer behind his own label, Off-White, as well as the new head of menswear at Louis Vuitton; a footwear collaborator with Nike; a furniture collaborator with Ikea; an artistic collaborator with Takashi Murakami; a formally trained architect; an in-demand DJ; and the subject of an upcoming exhibition about his own work at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago. Abloh, 38, is silhouetted by a citrine-yellow French summer sun on a recent Monday afternoon, relaxed and happy not long after the polychrome storm of his debut at Louis Vuitton, which featured a rainbow-painted catwalk meant to broadcast an international message of inclusivity and show notes with an…

At the cusp of the 1960s, the legendary tastemaker, gardener, and cultural philanthropist Rachel “Bunny” Mellon acquired a handsome plot of land that hovers over an azure bay on the Caribbean island of Antigua. Here the architect H. Page Cross created a series of elegant pavilions decorated by Mellon with the celebrated Billy Baldwin. Although unrestrained by finances, Mellon’s perfectionism was subtle: She instructed one of her designers to make the items that graced the interior look as though they had been brought “down from the attic.” But she also insisted that imperfect potato chips be removed from their bowls. “It plays at unpretentiousness,” wrote Vogue staffer Alison Harwood in an effusively enthusiastic report on the house to then editor Diana Vreeland, “pretending to be as casual as the blue…

SEPTEMBER, FOR US, ALWAYS starts in March. That’s when we return home from four weeks of shows and start planning what has traditionally always been our biggest issue of the year. Yet the fall 2018 season didn’t feel like it was business as usual, just as life these days doesn’t feel that way either. In all my time editing Vogue, this period is like no other I’ve experienced before, and for good reason: If fashion is radically different, it is because our world is so radically different. As we sat in meetings after the shows, we spent most of our time talking about how what we wear needs to reflect the times it’s being created for. We barely discussed trends—in fact, trend is now pretty much verboten in the office…

IN 1923, THE PIONEERING feminist Huda Shaarawi sent shock waves through Egyptian society by removing her face veil in a Cairo train station. Today, young American MIPSTERZ (“Muslim hipsters”) proudly wear head scarves while skateboarding. Women’s dress has often served as a flash point in centuries-old conflicts between tradition and modernity, secularism and religion. With the new exhibition “Contemporary Muslim Fashions,” San Francisco’s de Young Museum wades into this rich and complex territory. “Almost half the designers in the show are women in their 20s and 30s,” says Jill D’Alessandro, a curator in charge of costume and textile arts at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, and a cocurator of the exhibition. (Max Hollein, the new director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and formerly of the San Francisco…

RITUAL THINKING Those tuning into meditation apps or jump-starting their mornings with lemony hot water are engaging with Ayurveda whether they know it or not. The millennia-old South Asian well-being philosophy (translated from Sanskrit as the “science of life”) is finding a mainstream foothold, with a calibrated approach to keeping the body and mind in check—and Instagram-friendly packaging and experiences. “We are about making it contemporary,” says Uma Oils founder Shrankhla Holecek, who is partnering with Equinox this fall on a eucalyptus-scented oil and candle that nod to the expertise of generations of Ayurvedic physicians in her family. Meanwhile, destination spas are revisiting the classics. Herb-infused Ayurvedic treatments are on offer at the recently opened YO1 Luxury Nature Cure, in New York’s Catskills region; the Art of Living’s Shankara Spa,…

Radical Gaze In seemingly every fashion hub, on-trend eye makeup has become a visionary study in exuberant gesture and precise—but never too perfect—technique. On Parisian catwalks, Crayola-bright colors dress up models’ lids in bold monochrome streaks or double-take-worthy combinations. In Seoul, inky wings deliver a piercing neo-goth payoff, while New York’s frosty smudges mirror its cool-as-ice street scene. Off the runway circuit, It girls and Instagram artists are turning eyelids into crescent-shaped canvases, using the latest array of sparkling metallic paints, liquid-smooth liners, and hyperpig-mented powders to their creative advantage. And why not? Set against the requisite dewy, bare skin of the moment and an understated flesh-toned lip, even an abstract swipe of shadow can morph into a masterpiece of chromatic self-expression. SPONSORED BY L’ORÉAL PARIS Electroclash Hair Ice cream–parlor…

IT’S A BROILING HOT JULY DAY IN PARIS, and the electric fan valiantly whirring away to cool down Marine Serre’s studio has its work cut out for it. Yet Serre doesn’t seem unduly bothered. Her five-foot-nothing frame is clad in a billowing dress, and she’s sipping water from a tumbler not much bigger than a shot glass. But then, heat is something that she has had to get used to lately. While this 26-year old Marseilles native has only been in business for about a year, she now has fifteen employees, 70 retailers, one LVMH prize, and three collections to her name. “A year ago I was in school and couldn’t even pay for my apartment,” she says. “But I’m not scared, because I have nothing to lose.” Serre’s audacious…

“THIS STARS-AND-STRIPES JACKET, which represents the States, is my favorite—because American culture is what I loved when I was growing up.” The night before his Vetements show in July, Demna Gvasalia paused to pull out a patchworked-leather bomber, then turned it around and pointed to the slogan on the back. “What I like is that it says america, but in Russian.” No one in the designer fashion world understands more about the human cost of what happens when neighbors fight over borders than Gvasalia, who was twelve years old when he and his younger brother (now his business partner) Guram had to flee their home during the brutal civil war that overtook Sukhumi, Georgia, in 1993. “Everybody today talks about war, refugees,” he says, “and I am like, yes—I know…

STELLA McCARTNEY HAS ALWAYS been a tree climber. Hers was an English-countryside childhood spent riding horses and shimmying up giant oaks. “I grew up being aware of the seasons and the planet’s power and immensity,” she says. And as McCartney learned more about the harm caused by fashion manufacturing, she began to approach all aspects of her burgeoning namesake line ethically. From its very beginnings in 2001, it has been leather-, fur-, and feather-free—a fearless and peerless stance in the early aughts, one motivated by her personal choices as a committed, lifelong vegetarian. Climate change, of course, knows no borders. At some point, McCartney’s sustainable way of doing business will of necessity be the only way of doing business in a world of shrinking natural resources. But the designer, now…

LIKE DOLCE & GABBANA’S JEWELRY SHOW, their menswear show, their dinners, and their closing parties (the latest of which featured a performance from former One Direction star Liam Payne), the house’s recent four-day Alta Moda couture presentation was held in a procession of stupendously lovely villas alongside Lake Como. In tandem with the collection, created by a hundreds-strong in-house atelier, the location was designed to stimulate sensory shock and awe: total beauty overload. No other event in fashion features such a globally diverse community (the audience for this one numbered around 300) mingling, making friends, and learning from one another. As Stefano Gabbana said after the show, “The clients come from across the world—every corner—and they all have different eyes and sensibilities. That’s exciting.” While the best-represented regions were China,…

WHEN MAX HOLLEIN LEARNED LAST March that the search for a new director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art was down to two people—and he was one of them—he went to see Diane B. “Dede” Wilsey, the imperial president and main patron of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, where he had been director for less than two years. “Take the job,” she told him. “You’re going to be chosen, and you should know that it’s a great compliment to us.” Hollein, who as of this August is the Met’s tenth director, strikes many people as being preposterously well qualified for the position. Forty-nine years old and armed with degrees in art history and business administration, he has already directed five museums and overseen the fund-raising and building of…

IT HAD BEEN A LATE NIGHT—an exhibition match on Long Island in early spring with Eugenie Bouchard—and Sloane Stephens was hungry. She sank into a soft couch in the dark, cavernous lobby of the Ace Hotel in Manhattan, gorgeous in a navy velour Nike sweatshirt, sweatpants, and a pom-pom hat. “Egg and cheese—but I’m on a diet,” she said, eyeing the breakfast menu. Then she flashed one of her stunning smiles: “Ooh, sourdough pancakes; that sounds good.” She was in a happy place, even though she hadn’t won a match in months and had lost in the first round at the Australian Open. She knew that reporters and analysts had been studying her for signs of disaffection, if not disaster. There would be ups and downs to come—solid play at…

Pasha Harulia was fifteen when strangers began reaching out to her on Instagram, asking if she was interested in modeling. She wasn’t—but at her mother’s urging, she agreed to give it a shot. Weeks after signing with an agency in her native Kiev, the then-sixteen-year-old was en route to Paris, booked for the Balenciaga show. “I didn’t even know what Balenciaga was,” says Harulia, who is now nineteen. “People told me it was good.” After Paris came Tokyo, where Harulia shared a models’ apartment with several Russian girls, the youngest of whom was thirteen. It was an intense few months, much of the time spent in a van that shuttled the young models to castings. “I had some fun,” she says. “But mostly I was thinking about the money.” Guangzhou,…