Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2018 i Vogue

Colville—a new collaboration from Marni alumnae Molly Molloy and Kristin Forss (they designed the women’s and men’s collections, respectively) and Lucinda Chambers (she styled, sprinkling the fairy dust)—arrives in the middle of May with a capsule collection on matchesfashion.com. It’s the perfect combination of coolness (off-kilter pleated print dresses begging to be layered with sweaters), classicism (roomy coats, tailored pants, babouche slippers), and the quirky (asymmetric sculptural jewelry or a black hat that’s part Renaissance portraiture, part The Handmaid’s Tale, the former done in collaboration with Vicki Sarge, the latter with Stephen Jones). The label’s name comes from a West London street that was very much part of the city’s David Hockney 1970s, yet it is resolutely of today in its internationalist spirit—Chambers and Molloy are British, Forss Swedish, and…

Like the zigzags rendered in Missoni’s famous knits, there was a bit of back and forth, as Francesco Maccapani Missoni tells us, involved in the publishing of The Missoni Family Cookbook (Assouline). “Someone would say,‘We cook it this way,’ and someone else would say, ‘No, it’s this way.’ It was a little mad, but we finally figured it out.” As its title suggests, the book was a family affair. Francesco (son of the fashion house’s creative director, Angela) spearheaded the project, collecting material inherited from Missonis past and present: recipes, photos, and memorabilia. Meanwhile, his grandmother, Missoni matriarch Rosita, played quality control, tasting dishes—even those prepared solely to be photographed. Family snaps of tanned bodies smiling over alfresco lunches follow images of dishes dressed just as beautifully as the tables:…

Last September, New York–based design studio Les Ateliers Courbet flew south and landed at Miami’s swanky oceanfront resort The Surf Club (the soon-to-be home of Thomas Keller’s next restaurant). Just off the lobby, you’ll find its new gallery-shop, which will feature a set of glasses (martini and champagne) created with master glassmakers Lobmeyr and inspired by John James Audubon’s iconic studies of Floridian flora and fauna. “We adored Audubon’s early–nineteenth century illustrations,” says Les Ateliers Courbet’s Julia Caldwell, “and hoped to capture the tropical surroundings of our new location.” Featuring breezy palm fronds and dainty-legged flamingos, these hand-painted glasses just beg for a beachside cocktail.…

Barracoon The late author Zora Neale Hurston’s Barracoon (HarperCollins) uncovers the history of Cudjo Lewis, the last known survivor of the Atlantic slave trade. Lewis shares his story with pained immediacy, from the raid on his Beninese village to his life in America—first as a slave and then a “free” but forever haunted man. Motherhood What should a person be, if not a parent? For the 30-something narrator in Sheila Heti’s Motherhood (Henry Holt), whether or not to have a child is complicated by cultural expectation and “the sadness in not wanting the things that give so many other people their life’s meaning.” Some Trick Creative ideals collide with more mundane realities in Helen DeWitt’s sly and brainy story collection, Some Trick (New Directions). Thirteen stories explore everything from the…

NOT LONG AGO, I READ WHAT MAY BE the greatest stage direction in a play since Shakespeare wrote “Exit, pursued by a bear” 400 years ago. Describing a group of twelve-to fourteen-year-old suburban girls rehearsing for a dance competition, the playwright tells us that they have sprouted sharp fangs, which they brandish as they gyrate “like baby sexy robots. Bloodsucking robots who want to destroy the world and then fuck it after it’s dead.” This wholesome vision of American girlhood comes courtesy of the dazzlingly gifted young writer Clare Barron and her astonishing new play Dance Nation, which won both the 2017 Susan Smith Blackburn Prize and the American Playwriting Foundation’s Relentless Award. Having its world premiere at Playwrights Horizons in New York this month, the play follows a preteen…

Has there ever been a more improbable icon than Ruth Bader Ginsburg? Famously quiet and devoutly serious (her kids actually kept a book in which they recorded each time their mother laughed), the spectacularly bespectacled 85-year-old Supreme Court justice is one of the architects of modern American life. How she achieved this is the subject of the new celebratory documentary RBG by filmmakers Julie Cohen and Betsy West. (The justice seems to be having a movie moment: Later this year, she will be portrayed by Felicity Jones in the biopic On the Basis of Sex.) The daughter of Russian Jewish immigrants, Ginsburg shone at both Harvard and Columbia law schools, yet not a single New York firm would hire her—simply because she was a woman. Luckily, her husband, Martin Ginsburg,…

THE MINUTE HE GOT HIS HANDS on a Longchamp Le Pliage bag, Shayne Oliver knew what he wanted to do. “I realized the house’s history, but it was the democratic vibe that really got to me,” Oliver says, describing his collaboration with the brand. Longchamp, the storied Parisian luggage house that made its reputation on timeless nylon valises, was founded in 1948; Oliver, who has described his sensibility as “Ghetto Gothic,” was born in 1988. The former is famous for its indispensable satchels; the latter burst on the scene in 2014 with Hood by Air—an exuberant, stunningly well-executed line of elevated streetwear that captivated the fashion crowd (and was among the first to offer a truly diverse runway). If this marriage of street and sophistication seems unlikely, sometimes it is…

SOON AFTER THE FIRST iPhone came out a decade ago, fashion executive Gigi Mortimer found herself sitting next to an ophthalmologist at a dinner party in Sun Valley, Idaho. “I told him, ‘When you find out the light coming off these screens is bad for us, give me a call,’” she remembers. Mortimer was alarmed by studies that had started trickling out, suggesting the harmful effects the light from a smart device could have on vision, sleep—and even skin. (A 2008 report from scientists in Japan said that blue rays delay skin-barrier recovery in mice.) Concerned about the potential health risk for herself and her children, Mortimer, who got her start designing accessories, including eyeglasses, at Ralph Lauren and is now the director of design inspiration at Tory Burch, set…

TO JUDGE FROM POP CULTURE, restaurants are like universities—they’re where we go to learn about the world. The lessons are plentiful in Sweetbitter, a breezy new Starz series written by Stephanie Danler, based on her much-devoured 2016 novel of the same name. Ella Purnell plays Tess, a Midwestern newcomer to New York who lands a job as a back-waiter at an acclaimed restaurant obviously modeled on the Union Square Cafe. She soon finds herself sucked into the adrenaline-lashed world of high-end food, with its petty squabbles, kitchen hierarchy, and after-hours carousing. While Purnell makes Tess an amiable heroine (albeit one less sharply observant than the novel’s), the show is energized by her costars: Tom Sturridge as Jake, the mumbly-smart bartender; Caitlin FitzGerald as Simone, her mentor/rival who talks (someone jokes)…

INSIDE A DIMLY LIT ROOM on New York’s Upper East Side, I am standing in starfish pose as an enthusiastic trainer tightens the straps of what seems to be an all-black flak jacket around my thighs, torso, and arms. The gear is straight out of a Special Ops video game, but the gadgets are real: sixteen wireless electrodes designed to administer painless but palpable zaps as I work out. So this is what the buzz is about. Futuristic as it sounds, the electromyostimulation (EMS) offered at Manhattan’s newly opened (and aptly named) Shock Therapy studio has been used for physical-therapy rehabilitation since the 1960s. “Its main function is to stimulate weaker muscles to contract during exercise to improve strength more quickly,” says Michael Fredericson, M.D., a sports-medicine physiatrist at Stanford…

When the überproducer Brad Grey and the gamine beauty entrepreneur Cassandra Huysentruyt began looking for a place to create a home together, they considered some storied architectural gems in the giddier heights of Los Angeles’s manicured enclaves. The couple was ultimately inspired, however, by the landscape of Carolwood, where Frank Sinatra had once lived, beautifully situated on the cusp of a knoll in Holmby Hills, with dramatic views of downtown Los Angeles. When they first met, marriage was far from Huysentruyt’s mind. However, Bronx-born Brad had built a successful career as a Hollywood talent manager and producer on his passion for detail and his powers of persuasion, working his way up from being a concert gofer as a teenager in Buffalo, New York, to chairman and CEO of Paramount Pictures.…

Table of contents 32: Necklace, $1,525; select Versace boutiques. Aquazzura shoes, $695; aquazzura.com. 38: On Jules: Blundstone shoes, $115; blundstone.com. Manicure, Jin Soon Choi. Cover look: Top, price upon request; Alexander McQueen, NYC. Earrings, price upon request; (800)-CARTIER. Tailor, Della George. Manicurist, Aleksandra Domieniecka. Editor’s letter 46: Sweater, $2,390; Oscar de la Renta boutiques. Pants, $950; framestore.com. Earrings, price upon request; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. Tailor, Della George. Manicurist, Aleksandra Domieniecka. V Life 62: Dress ($4,000) and earring ($670 for pair); Céline, NYC. 68: From left: On model Georgia Palmer: Colville dress ($2,015), top ($1,085), and leggings ($905). Vicki Sarge for Colville earrings, price upon request. On model Jess Cole: Colville sleeveless top ($875), shirt ($855), skirt ($1,625), leggings ($905), shoes (price upon request), and earring (price upon request). On model…

Fashion Culture Beauty TWO YEARS AGO, WHILE DONALD GLOVER was at a friend’s house watching audition tapes for the character Van—the actor and director’s on-again, off-again love interest—in FX’s Atlanta, his friend’s girlfriend walked by the television and stopped, transfixed. It wasn’t the first time Glover had witnessed a visceral reaction to Zazie Beetz. She has, he says, “an amazing ability to lure people to her with a natural honesty.” And then there’s her hair. Worn in an Afro that frames her heart-shaped face and caramel skin, her natural texture was a tipping point for Glover, who cast Beetz in the role. “Zazie’s hair isn’t straightened, and I wanted her to relate to Van as much as possible,” he says of the feisty character, whose development has benefited from Beetz’s…

In the era of #MeToo and Time’s Up, messages of female empowerment are reverberating across the cultural landscape, from hiring practices to red-carpet dress codes. But can a slab of soap also have an impact? A Parisian brand is making a convincing case. “The idea was to celebrate striking personalities in new materials,” says Alexandra Benenati, co–creative director, with Sonia Durand, of Vilaines Filles Mauvais Garçons. Named after a 1963 Serge Gainsbourg track (“Bad Girls, Bad Boys” en anglais), the six-piece collection features the sculpted busts of pioneering women such as the novelist Colette and the cyclist Annie Londonderry. Just as thoughtfully conceived is the cold-processed blend of shea butter, argan oil, and soothing eucalyptus; the one-of-a-kind pieces are produced in four weeks. “It takes a long time, but we…

Since the advent of multistep online beauty tutorials, the practice of simulating genetically endowed cheekbones has become a full-blown phenomenon. But what can rise to the level of art form, other times slips into outré exaggeration. “There is a fine line between reality and fantasy,” says Linda Cantello, Giorgio Armani Beauty’s international makeup artist, who believes that facial sculpting should whisper rather than roar. “It’s comfort makeup,” she says of the brand’s innovative new A-Line liquid pigments, featuring a lightweight, water-based gel formula for contouring—a departure from the more familiar cream sculpting sticks that have made beauty moguls of celebrities such as Kim Kardashian West and Rihanna. The sheer matte fluid is available in two nearly universal shades (one warm-toned, one cool), as well as five barely there blushes and…

THE SWEDISH-BORN DESIGNER LARS NILSSON spent his childhood summers at his family’s country house on Lake Siljan, a turn-of-the-century artistic enclave where the painters Anders Zorn and Carl Larsson and the doctor and writer Axel Munthe all once had homes. Nilsson remembers being taken around Munthe’s house, Hildasholm, by the writer’s son, Malcolm Munthe, for a tour that fueled a passion for design—one that would ultimately lead Nilsson to work with Christian Lacroix and at Dior with John Galliano before taking the reins at Bill Blass, Nina Ricci, and Gianfranco Ferré. When Nilsson visited Capri for the first time, he discovered Munthe’s other life at the Villa San Michele, the remarkable house that the writer created there nearly 300 meters above the sea, with plunging views across the Bay of…

“THERE ARE PREMIERES,” said the actress Angela Bassett, “and there are premieres.” The triumphal march down Black Panther’s purple carpet and into the Dolby Theatre signaled that this was the latter, clearly—an occasion not just for Hollywood’s cyclical ritual of self-celebration but to toast a presumptive billion-dollar blockbuster written, directed, and starring people of color, a bet no studio had dared make before. The rapper Kendrick Lamar, arriving with an entourage of about fifteen, had flown in that afternoon from New York along with Janelle Monáe; both had performed at the Grammys the night before. The tiered tassels of Bassett’s marigold jumpsuit swished every which way, the jewels sewn into the bodice of Lupita Nyong’o’s Atelier Versace gown trembled excitedly, and actors in dashikis greeted executives in suits as preadolescent…

Tiffany & Co. flowerpot and Paper Flowers pendants For spring, Tiffany & Co. Chief Artistic Officer Reed Krakoff brings us this sterling-silver planter—home to a leafy wood sorrel that attracts critters with carats. The pair of insects, also by the legendary jeweler, is actually a set of pendants: two fireflies aglow with pavé-set white diamond wings and a luminous yellow diamond core. Best of all, no Mason jar is required to capture these luxury lightning bugs: Loop them through their platinum chains (not pictured) and they respond wonderfully to captivity.…