Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2018 i Vogue

OUR APRIL ISSUE FOCUSES ON DREAMERS—those individuals who can envisage whole worlds of their own making, worlds that are beautiful and compelling in their originality. The theme came from Fashion News Director Mark Holgate during a fashion meeting not long after we’d returned from the spring 2018 collections last October. It was inspired, in part, by the idea that sometimes fashion doesn’t have to be anything other than magical and magnificent; whether it was wearable or not didn’t factor too much into our decisions about what we wanted to shoot. Usually at Vogue I’m a great believer in addressing real needs about clothes, but let’s be honest: We all want to eat dessert sometimes. The fashion we chose came from those designers who took this approach the best, most notably…

If paradise was paved to put up a parking lot, two new California wine-country hotels—the Astro and Skyview—are doing just the opposite. Once mid-century motor lodges, both properties have transformed park-outside-your-hotel-room lots into edible-garden green spaces. And as the region recovers from last year’s wildfires and mudslides, renewal is in the air. In Sonoma’s Santa Rosa, the Astro Motel embraced its sixties origins, explains co-owner Liza Hinman. A Googie-style neon sign blinks, and doors alternate in shades of atomic orange and teal. Shinola bikes are at the ready for trips to nearby wineries, or guests can venture downtown à pied for microbreweries and garagiste winemakers. Skyview is situated in Santa Barbara’s Los Alamos, and its outdoor lounge area and restaurant’s vegetable garden suggest nothing of the hotel’s origins as a…

A PARISIENNE GRANDE DAME’s approval is not generally given easily, but 27-year-old École Duperré graduate Ludovic de Saint Sernin has succeeded in obtaining just such validation. “I saw your grandson’s collection, and I am so happy,” wrote a friend of Saint Sernin’s grandmother. “It’s really reaching into something that’s more elegant, because fashion… it can be really weird-looking nowadays.” But don’t let the fin de siècle tone—or Saint Sernin’s dashing resemblance to an artsy, blond Balzac hero—fool you: His self-titled debut is both passionately modern and artisanal. “My clothes would not be too out of place on a woman from the Upper East Side—or on a teenage boy from the Sixteenth Arrondissement,” he says with a nod, his slight six-foot-two frame dressed in jeans and a simple black tee, moving…

I hope people aren’t frightened of me,” says Yvonne Strahovski with a laugh. “On the street, they approach with a bit of caution.” You can hardly blame them. The 35-year-old actress has become world-famous as the ironically named Serena Joy, one of the most frightening characters on Hulu’s awards-devouring series The Handmaid’s Tale. Bringing a coiled intensity to her troubled, joyless character, Strahovski plays a former antifeminist pundit living in a theocratic dystopia called Gilead. Bedecked in chilly blue outfits and severe hair, she is shockingly callous to the heroine, Offred (Elisabeth Moss), a prisoner forced to be a surrogate mother. It’s an image-altering showcase for Strahovski, who made her name on TV as the spy/romantic interest in Chuck and the hero’s teasingly sociopathic lover on Dexter. “With Serena Joy,”…

“I can completely relax only in nature and by the piano,” says Sigrid, the mononymous Norwegian singer-songwriter—full name Sigrid Solbakk Raabe—who broke onto the world stage last year with her debut EP, “Don’t Kill My Vibe,” and has her first album coming out this spring. Fresh-faced and button-nosed, she looks younger than her 21 years. In her videos, she often wears high-waisted jeans and primary-color tees, and sings angelically to the camera—until she curls her mouth into a lopsided snarl. “My whole family has been like: What is this?” she says, contrasting her current love of the spotlight with a story about a kindergarten choir concert where she burst into tears due to stage fright. “I’ve always been the shy one.” Despite her professed reticence, Sigrid is best known for…

“IT’S SPIRITUAL,” says three-time Tony nominee Condola Rashad of her latest project, a limited run of George Bernard Shaw’s classic Saint Joan, opening this month at Manhattan Theatre Club. “You can’t mask the energy of live theater and having people in the room with you as you tell a story.” It’s that energy that entrances viewers of Rashad’s other projects out this month—a Netflix film, Come Sunday, and Billions, the hit Showtime series now entering its third season. Both roles saw Rashad push herself as an actress: Sunday required a sustained examination of faith, while Billions demands that she move and shake in a modern Machiavellian legal setting. Her cool confidence in both, meanwhile, is reflected in her distinctive and polished approach to dress. “It’s like a sophisticated fairy,” says…

THIS MONTH WE COME IN PRAISE OF DREAMS. For some time now, too many of us seem to have forgotten this realm of fashion; we’ve sidelined the idea that our clothes can be a headlong rush into the fantastic, the audacious, the surreal, and the spectacular. We’d all fallen head over heels for a new generation of brilliant young upstarts whose attitude-positive designs were perfect for the charged and challenged times we find ourselves living through—designers who were more interested in speaking the globe-spanning language of the street than communing with our need for fanciful, impossible, and otherworldly beauty. Implicit in all this was a political dimension: To dream is usually to be asleep—how can you be woke if you’re not awake? Of course, what we need in our lives…

Seventy runway collections after starting out, Bailey is relishing his new freedom. “Painting, decorating… my latest purchase is a power drill,” he says, roaring with laughter “Seventeen years ago, I don’t think I could have imagined that I would be married with two children,” Bailey says. “But as complex and chaotic as the world is, there are positive things happening.” CHRISTOPHER BAILEY—the outgoing architect of the Burberry universe—may be the only public figure for whom the clichéd leavetaking expression “looking forward to spending more time with his family” really and truly applies. The happy picture on the previous spread—Christopher and husband Simon Woods and their daughters, Iris, three, and Nell, two—is a telling landmark of his achievements in leading and reflecting the changing times, even beyond fashion. “Seventeen years ago,…

ON A RECENT VISIT to Vape Town, a purveyor of e-cigarettes in Manhattan’s West Village, I find a culture in flux. The store is equal parts Game of Thrones and The Matrix. One display features slender white boxes, so minimally branded they could easily house an eco-chic skin-care elixir; another is lined with squat little apothecary bottles boasting lurid labels of demonic warlords and filled with tinctures of liquid nicotine in flavors like Unicorn Milk and Ménage à Trois. If I were just seeking any old vape shop, there’d be no need to leave my Brooklyn neighborhood. Rare is the five-borough block where one can’t be found these days. But Vape Town distinguishes itself as the site of New York City’s first Juul Workbench. The Genius Bar–like destination promises to…

Table of contents 38: On Aboah: Sweatshirt ($3,290) and skirt ($1,590). On Delevingne: Vest ($1,350), T-shirt ($210), dress, worn under vest ($8,900), and sneakers ($680). All at burberry.com. 56: Dress ($6,500) and shoes ($845); Calvin Klein, NYC. Cover look: Dress, price upon request: (800) 550-0005. Ring, price upon request; select Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques. Manicure, Lorraine Griffin. Tailor, Della George. Editor’s letter 60: Michele: Jamie Hawkesworth, Vogue, 2015. Lagerfeld: Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images. Mulleavys: Ed Templeton, Vogue, 2017. Piccioli: Maciek Kobielski, Vogue, 2013. Dolce and Gabbana: Todd Eberle. Burton: Mikael Jansson, Vogue, 2017. Bailey: Annie Leibovitz, Vogue, 2016. Galliano: Ragnar Kjartansson, John Galliano listening to “The Gilded Palace of Sin,”Vogue, 2015. V Life 104: Dress, $1,875; Neiman Marcus stores. 108: On Blue: Blazer ($1,105), shirt ($675), and pants ($725). On Attal:…

“I’M A BIG GEEK—I’M OBSESSED with reading, I’m obsessed with art history,” the fashion designer Matthew Adams Dolan says, looking both exhausted and really, really excited. Exhausted because in the runup to his just-staged fall show he was sewing until 4:00 a.m. every night, his Lakeland terrier, Maisie, at his side, soul music blaring. And excited because that show—with its electric-blue country club–ready cable cardigans, its button-down shirts sporting exaggerated plaid cuffs, its crisp swing-back checked coats—brought a bright burst of energy to New York Fashion Week. Dolan, 30, who is very tall and very boyish, is dressed today in one of his vastly oversize denim jackets—the silhouette that first put him on the fashion map. He lives in a huge loft in the Seaport district of Manhattan with two…

Followers isn’t the only term for a combined social-media audience that tops one million. Think focus group. That’s what Marianna Hewitt (known for her beauty tutorials on Life with Me) and Lauren Gores Ireland (of the lifestyle-and-motherhood site You & Lu) realized when the responses came flooding in every time they engaged with their readers on skin care. Those exchanges planted a seed in the minds of the Los Angeles–based friends, who set about formulating a facial range to their personal (and crowd-sourced) specifications. Called Summer Fridays—an homage to the East Coast tradition of clocking out early to get a jump on weekend travel—the line of masks in eco-friendly metal tubes was destined for social success. Still, Summer Fridays’ recent rollout runs counter to click-worthy trends. The debut Jet Lag…

LAST DECEMBER, Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch of the interior-design studio Roman and Williams opened the Guild—their first home-goods store and concept shop, situated on a buzzy downtown Manhattan street corner. The 7,000-squarefoot space instantly became a SoHo hangout and a fully shoppable design mecca—down to the linens that adorn the rustic tables at the in-store eatery La Mercerie. On offer are one-of-a-kind, multipurpose objects by an international rank of artisans, including this hand-built, gold-embellished vase by ceramist Ruan Hoffmann—one of eight originally created for an exhibition at Ireland’s National Design & Craft Gallery. “I was inspired by the concept of a contemplative object,” explains Hoffmann. “I would like the viewer to see it as a catalyst for a daydream and not just a receptacle for flowers.”…

“There are two stories you need to know about your characters: the one they tell themselves, and the one they actually inhabit,” says Elaine Castillo, author of the autobiographically charged America Is Not the Heart (Viking). Castillo’s debut novel moves from the Philippines to northern California to follow one family in America, including Paz; her husband, Pol; and their daughter, Roni. When Pol’s niece Hero, a former revolutionary, comes to live with them, their roots in both countries are tested. Castillo grew up in the Bay Area (like Roni) reading Zadie Smith and Manuel Puig. After studying classics and literature at University of California, Berkeley, she moved to London and later pursued a master’s degree. During a period of mourning following her father’s death, she brought together a long-gestating set…

“INSTAGRAM IS MY QVC!” The statement—delivered with brio by a glossy Dallas blonde at the table next to mine at a recent breakfast—may as well serve as 2018’s shopping mantra. Like more and more serious shoppers, Nancy (as I soon came to know her) is changing her approach. Along with private shopping hours at prestigious department stores and countless trunks, immediacy, it seems, is the new luxury. And as consumers become more accustomed to not just looking at and liking but actually buying from their phones—retail analysts at McKinsey & Company project that U.S. mobile transactions alone will reach $930 billion annually by the end of the year—fashion companies are developing features to make shopand-pay easier and simpler. One company in particular is at the forefront of all of this.…

The couple posing in the Helmut Newton photo on this page looks both jubilant and mocking. The woman standing next to them, her fist clenched against her hip, is clearly irritated. Has she just lost her lover? And why are the two women dressed in such flamboyant shades of red? I associate the color with passion and rage. Will the woman with the clenched fist throw her glass of wine in the other woman’s face? If she did, I would hardly blame her. But hers was not my experience. I was very young when I married my first husband—let’s call him Jim—and very much in love, as I assume he was. Clear as day I can recall our picture-perfect wedding—my white lace dress, my bouquet, the three-tier cake—and how certain…

Jenner stables her horses at an unpretentious show barn called Huntover. It sits in an achingly romantic little spot tucked away in the gated community of Bell Canyon, California, about five miles from where she grew up in Calabasas. Huntover is owned by a genial, middle-aged gay man, Mark Bone, whom Kendall has known since she was thirteen, when she used to ride and train with him at a bigger facility not far from here. “This is my little baaarn!” shouts Kendall, looking impossibly cool in skintight black riding breeches as she strides through a dramatic, Mission-style archway toward where Mark and I are standing, just outside her two stalls. Her horses, Belle and Dylan—both European warmblood mares trained as jumpers—sway their heads and whinny at the sound of their…

THERE IS NO GREENER green than the green of the fava bean. Like certain sunset purples and marine blues, it’s one of those colors in which nature seems to be gloating. It’s a color I pine for in the monochrome months of late winter, when food is beige and stodgy and sometimes closer to consolation than to pleasure. For many chefs, the fava—pulled from its long shell, slipped from its skin, and gently nudged to life on the stove—retains something like cult status in the kitchen. More interesting than the English pea, rarer than the asparagus stem, more vibrant than the globe artichoke or the wild ramp, it is first among the new season’s equals, the most splendid totem of spring. “For us who cook seasonally, the arrival of favas…

IN THE WORLD ACCORDING TO VIOLETTE, a Manhattan park is a perfectly acceptable place to film a makeup tutorial. Dressed in a Gallic striped top and flared jeans, the Parisian expat nestles into a garden chair, spreading out products on a cloth napkin like a plein air picnic. As she works her magic on a model—blending concealer, fluffing lashes, painting on cherry lipstick with a blurred-edge technique coyly supertitled “#frenchkisslook” on YouTube—the effect is persuasive: part Nouvelle Vague realism, part Sex and the City sisterhood, part QVC finesse. Last summer, when Estée Lauder tapped the self-taught makeup artist to be its global beauty director, it seemed like an unexpected move for a brand long synonymous with American pluck and polish. How did the French-born art school alum, whose painterly way…

WHEN SUE NABI LEFT L’ORÉAL in 2013 after 20 years, during which she logged time as the president of Lancôme, her body promptly began breaking down. “I realized I had spent my entire life on planes or jet-lagged, and my back felt constantly painful,” she explains. Desperate for relief, she immersed herself in the healing practices of Taoism and Ayurveda, exploring traditional medicine and meditation. Eventually, as her pain disappeared, she regained her energy—and her ambition. Nabi wrote down three ideas for a “new path,” and one of them stuck: to create a beauty company that works with your skin, not against it. Orveda, Nabi’s debut solo project of nineteen luxury vegan products, is set to arrive in the U.S. next month, tapping into her experience—professional and personal—with a focus…

IN MATTERS OF BEAUTY, there are genetic gifts, and then there are slick amplifications: tricks to subtly sculpt a cheekbone, telegraph a just-bitten lip, or even amplify the lash line to mesmerizing effect, which has helped make the cat eye a century-spanning phenomenon. Ancient Egyptians cemented the wide-rule kohl gaze for the ages; by the time Elizabeth Taylor took on Cleopatra in 1963, the invention of liquid liner had launched a full-blown feline movement. A purring Brigitte Bardot underscored her sex appeal with flirtatious flicks and bombshell hair; across the pond, black liner met double-dose mascara on a doe-eyed Twiggy. Fast-forward to this season’s runways, and the look has proved to have nine lives and then some: Fendi went futurist Fellini with crisp teal strokes; at Rochas, an almondine outline…

“I’M GETTING BRIBED!” GASPS Alexander Spencer-Churchill. “Hampers! Baby clothes!” This well-connected, socially adept 34-year old, whose dapper style generally consists of a sharp Douglas Davis suit and pale-blue silk tie and pocket square, is incredulous at people’s attempts to become a Legacy member of the new Annabel’s club. “It’s like The X Factor,” he says, propping himself languorously against the marble fireplace just inside 46 Berkeley Square, the Georgian mansion that houses the club in London’s Mayfair. “Everyone needs to be approved by the committee.” The magnificent hall hints at extravagance within: The walls are lined in pleated pistachio silk; bunches of fruit-and-flowers plasterwork tumble from the ceiling; glimmering crystal girandoles stand sentry beside the fireplace. “When you go into most members’ clubs you don’t see a Picasso hanging on…