Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2017 i Vogue

It’s somehow very satisfying to know that even in our instantaneous, multiplatform era, the discovery of something via knowing nods and word of mouth still exists. Such is the success of Colombia-based designer Danielle Corona’s accessory line, Hunting Season. Her cult baúl (Spanish for “trunk”) bag in glossy lizard and crocodile—with its thin, elongated strap and cool box shape—has had people buzzing in New York. And with a global launch on Net-a-Porter this month, the phenomenon is set to go international. The circularshaped artisan pieces, which are based on Balinese baskets, are available in classic navy, racing green, tan, and sunflower, as well as in a Birkin-worthy straw. Corona, who was born in Miami to Cuban parents, moved her life and her business from New York to Bogotá five years…

Bombshell curves ignite in dresses rippling with ruching.…

Something had to be up,” Jordana Mattioli remembers thinking when she discovered The Ordinary’s $6.70 Retinol 1% serum, the kind of age-reversing, magic-bullet product that usually comes with a similarly impressive price tag. So Mattioli, an aesthetician who works alongside New York dermatologists Julie Karen, M.D., and Elizabeth Hale, M.D., did what any discerning consumer does in 2017: She emailed the brand for more information and promptly ordered almost the whole line, which showcases isolated clinical ingredients in varying concentrations. Deciem, the company behind The Ordinary—one of ten niche, experimental ranges in a portfolio that covers everything from performance skin care to wellness and men’s grooming—is gaining ground where other brands are losing trust with simple products that work, and a no-comment-left-unattended policy. Exchanges between the company and its engaged…

The day after the presidential election last November, I sent a message to a dozen friends, suggesting we get together to discuss “our new obligations.” By the end of the week, that email had nearly 500 people in cc—a small sampling of the Americans seized by the adrenaline surge of activism that drove citizens to town halls, to rallies, and out onto the streets. Suddenly, I found myself planning the first meeting of a new direct-action group, which I was expected to lead. But here’s the thing: I’m not an organizer. I’m a writer, exclusively talented at organizing ideas. Swept up in the moment, I didn’t realize I was committing myself to such mundane tasks as trying to get head counts; looking for spaces that could accommodate said head counts;…

BY 21, I’D GIVEN UP ON BECOMING A NOVELIST. It was too impossible, too grand, too unattainably elbow-patched-Waspy for a cash-strapped, state school–educated, suburban Jewish boy. I’d moved on to my backup plan. I’d become a fashion photographer in New York. I understand now that it’s like giving up professional poker to fall back on shooting craps. Still, it made sense to me. Photography is a real job. There’s lots of equipment to operate. You press a button and get results. If you work in a studio, you can play loud music and be around other people— most of them models. And everyone takes you seriously. Set up a light in Central Park, have an assistant hold a reflector, and the tourists will circle around, taking pictures of you taking…

“I WAS GOING TO BE ICONIC TODAY and just drink juice,” says Paloma Elsesser after a marathon morning of meetings in New York City with six casting directors, “but now it’s 3:30 p.m. and I need a burrito.” Iconic is a word much used by the 25-year-old, whose career in fashion is only loosely constructed around the idea of being a model. Makeup artist Pat McGrath—iconic, indeed—first spotted Elsesser on Instagram while Elsesser was working as a manager for rapper and friend Earl Sweatshirt. Slipping easily into the slipstream of the fashion and beauty worlds, Elsesser seems to have outgrown the designation of model almost as quickly as she came into it. A summer of working at breakneck speed has given way to a fall in which Paloma Elsesser collaborations…

“Amber [Valletta] is an icon, but a very real one. Along with many of the women in our hundredth show, we’d worked with her a long time—there were others, like Mica [Argañaraz] and Hanne Gaby [Odiele], as well. Some of the younger people in the audience were surprised when [model] Kristina de Coninck came out smiling and making eye contact with them—they’re not used to that today!” “This was the first time I’d used digital, as opposed to silk-screen, prints. I’d found vintage fabrics in a mill in Como and combined three or four of them—ones we thought were beautiful or interesting—into one piece.” “The inspiration for this collection was the work of artist Bridget Riley—graphic, monochromatic—so putting this dress in a field gave it a very different context, but…

IN THE MADCAP, UNCERTAIN DECADE BEFORE WORLD War II, Elsa Schiaparelli was mocked by her archrival, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, as “that Italian artist who makes clothes.” But for Schiap, as she called herself, this was no insult. “Dress designing . . . is to me not a profession but an art,” she wrote in Shocking Life, her engaging 1954 autobiography. In the early 1920s, she took up with the Dadaists, including Man Ray and Francis Picabia. Later, she described a Picasso painting of black and white birds as her “allegorical portrait”—while the artist painted his lover Dora Maar wearing Schiap’s fanciful hats and engineered suits. (The New Yorker’s Paris correspondent, Janet Flanner, dubbed Schiap “a cunning carpenter of clothes.”) As a wildly innovative couturier, she collaborated with Jean Cocteau, Louis…

When it comes to the moral calculation of absconding with a few shampoo bottles from a hotel bathroom, there is one brand that still inspires a moment of petty theft within the best of us. “Hotel rooms are so expensive nowadays that we thought we had a duty to help guests lower their resentment,” Le Labo cofounder Fabrice Penot jokes, recounting how the luxury chains that he has partnered with on custom-scented, property-specific hair and body products, such as the Park Hyatt and Edition hotels, have occasionally had to double their orders to account for missing inventory. That kind of proof of concept helped persuade Penot to sign off on a much more ambitious project for his popular, fresh-poured perfume brand: a full range of bath, body, and hair care…

“It was beyond my consciousness,” Frankie Shaw says of becoming a director. “I didn’t grow up in an environment where it was like, ‘You could be this.’ ” But after a decade in the acting trenches—including a memorable turn as the drug-dealing next-door neighbor in Mr. Robot—Shaw changed tack. “I actually really wasn’t able to create until I started directing,” she says. The result is SMILF (Showtime), a gritty, semiautobiographical comedy executive-produced by and starring Shaw (who also wrote and directed many of the episodes), about a young, single Southie mom struggling to balance her libido, her toddler’s tantrums, and her own ambitions. (The title, FYI, stands for “Single Mother I’d Like to. . . .”) Like the show’s protagonist, Bridgette, Shaw is from the Boston area where the show…

“THEY’RE REALLY HEAVY,” DAISY Ridley says. “Three, four, five kilos? And the weight’s very unevenly distributed.” She’s talking about lightsabers— and explaining that if you’re actually in a Star Wars movie, you can’t just pick one up and wave it around, as children have been doing in their bedrooms for the past 40 years. Not at all. In real life—or rather, for real movies—special conditioning is in order. Before she could film fight scenes for Star Wars: The Last Jedi— the second in the trilogy in which she plays Rey, the heroine—she undertook a kind of neon martial-arts training. “You do, like, eight thwacks one way, eight the other, eight up, eight down,” she says. I suggest they could market that as a form of exercise. “Yeah,” she agrees, laughing:…

All I wanted was to taste Dominique Crenn’s cooking, which is why I flew from New York to San Francisco. She is the first woman in America to have won two Michelin stars, and last year she was named best female chef in the world. The whole world! We had crossed paths in 2009, when she was a contestant on The Next Iron Chef and I was a judge. She was tall and French, and her cooking was both cerebral and ethereal. (A year later she vanquished Iron Chef Michael Symon in “Battle Yogurt.”) I learned that she had moved to America nineteen years earlier and had first worked at the pioneering restaurant Stars in San Francisco under the direction of the brilliant chef Jeremiah Tower, a considerable achievement as…

EDITOR: VIRGINIA SMITH…

EDITORS: MARK HOLGATE & MARK GUIDUCCI Halpern LONDON IN 2017 MAY SEEM LIKE THE LEAST LIKELY place to find an unabashed young ambassador for bedazzled New York glamorama, but here’s Michael Halpern, and he’s exactly that. “I love disco, and the glamour of the seventies, and hearing stories from my mom about Studio 54,” he says, laughing and running his hand through a rail of iridescent sequined tunics and superflares. “But to me, disco is so much more than the images. It’s a state of mind. The late seventies were so beautiful—the freeness, openness, and acceptance. And I think that’s really missing now.” Working out of his small studio in London’s East End, Halpern is among the latest in the long stream of alumni to have shot out of Central…

FOR AS LONG AS SHE’S BEEN MAKING ART, SYLVIE FLEURY has been thinking about makeup. “There was always this idea about cosmetics and wanting to say something about consumerism,” she says. The Swiss artist, whose newest exhibition, “Palette of Shadows,” opens on November 2 at Salon 94 Bowery, has spent nearly 30 years saying something about consumerism—and feminism, among other topics—with a boldness and irreverence that’s reflected in her installations and mixed-media works: There was cosmetics packaging in the shopping bags that littered a gallery floor in one of her earliest works, and Givenchy nail polish sprayed on the crushed automobiles she presented in the nineties. Even the primer that mechanics use on repaired automobiles before applying paint reminded her of concealer—so she used it to decorate gallery walls for…

EDITOR: CELIA ELLENBERG By the time Holli Smith landed at beauty school in northern California in the nineties, the theneighteen- year-old was already making up her own rules. “I started going to UC Santa Cruz’s campus and cutting people’s hair in the bathroom,” the hairstylist says of an improvisational approach that bucked Vidal Sassoon–style precision. Smith gave herself a Shalom Harlow–esque bob and got a feel for clippers; then, after moving to San Francisco, she began experimenting with self-taught barbering techniques, giving lesbian friends their first identity-defining looks. “Doing things more loosely and freeing everyone’s hair texture was my mission,” she recalls. If that blurred-lines message has now hit the fashion mainstream—where buzz cuts and mophead shags have equal-opportunity appeal—it’s more truth than trend for Smith. “It’s funny because all…

André Aciman’s novel Call Me by Your Name tells the story of Elio, a musically inclined Italian-American/ French teenager, and Oliver, a rakish graduate student visiting Elio’s family’s home. Elio’s initial annoyance with his houseguest gives way to curiosity, then cryptic flirtation, and eventually a furtive, passionate affair. The book has been considered a modern classic of queer literature since its publication in 2007, but for Timothée Chalamet, the actor who plays Elio in the new film adaptation, it was also quite an investment. “I got a copy through the library at Columbia,” says the half-French New York City native over coffee in the East Village. “But I forgot to give it back for a year, so it was a $100 read. I still have that copy.” The atmospheric intensity…

RESEARCHERS IN ANTARCTICA RECENTLY UNEARTHED a 106-year-old fruitcake that early–twentieth century British explorers had left at the South Pole. The explorers had all perished, but their dessert—found in its original tin in a hut—survived. Conservationists said that but for a “slight rancid smell,” it appeared “almost edible.” How long is too long when it comes to preserving ephemeral goods—be it a Yuletide confection, or, say, a humble lipstick? I don’t expect my makeup, once applied, to last more than a few hours. But recent cosmetic science aims to prove me wrong. New foundations promise round-theclock flawless complexions. Liquid lip stains, supercharged with pigments, pledge to keep twenty-first-century women pucker-ready from breakfast meetings to late-afternoon school pickups, and from after-dinner selfies to post-midnight assignations. And fadeproof blushes now ensure that the…

Table of contents 54: Dress, $1,310; select Prada boutiques. Sports bra, $55; reebok.com. Eddie Borgo earrings, $290; eddieborgo.com. No. 21 belt, price upon request; numeroventuno.com. In this story: Manicure, Alexandra Janowski. Tailor, Leah Huntsinger. Cover look 62: Dress ($5,990) and earring ($2,395 for pair); Saint Laurent, NYC. In this story: Manicure, Megumi Yamamoto. Tailor, Leah Huntsinger. Editor’s letter 80: On Ridley: Louis Vuitton earring, price upon request; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. Wrap bracelets worn as necklaces, $210 each; jillplatner.com. Talking fashion 117: Sies Marjan shoes, price upon request; siesmarjan.com. In this story: Tailor, Hailey Dejardines at Stitched. 118: On Jing: Shirt; also at Dover Street Market New York. Trousers; also at martinerose.com. Tie, $238; fwrd.com. Martine Rose tie bar ($135) and belt ($238). Tie bar at martinerose.com. Belt at FourTwoFour…