Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2016 i Vogue

As the sun sets over the Aegean Sea on a recent evening, turning it a translucent minty green, I settle under an olive tree and take a picture for posterity. The photo caption I text to a friend with four emojis reads, IN MY HAPPY PLACE, otherwise known as Canyon Ranch’s newest location, in southwest Turkey. Spas are what I fantasize about when I’m stuck in meetings or rush-hour traffic, and Canyon Ranch in Tucson might be my favorite. I started visiting “the Ranch,” as regulars refer to the 37-year-old wellness facility, with my father’s girlfriend, Randi, in 2011. She engaged in brisk morning walks; I indulged my type-A exercise tendencies with a 35-foot rock wall, a four-mile run, and an hour-long yoga class; we met at the spa for…

I arrived on Tuesday, and it’s been a little nonstop since then,” the British actor and rapper Riz Ahmed says one morning over green juice at New York’s Soho Grand Hotel. Ahmed is in town for some business around The Night Of, the taut new HBO crime series in which he stars, but he’s also just finished a BBC script and a mixtape as his rhyme-spitting alter ego, Riz MC. In The Night Of (written by Richard Price and the director, Steven Zaillian, after the popular British series Criminal Justice), Ahmed plays Naz, a Jackson Heights cabdriver’s son who, after a rare wild night, finds himself accused of murder. “I was actually beginning to despair that we wouldn’t be able to cast the part, because I knew what it required—someone…

joining the sleeper hit Mr. Robot for its second season is 30-year-old Grace Gummer, leading her own subplot to unravel a massive cybercrime. “I’m sort of the Javert of the show,” says Gummer, who plays FBI field agent Dominique DiPierro. “Dom is overly earnest, but she’s also supersmart. Sort of like Frances Mc-Dormand in Fargo.” The character, says show creator Sam Esmail, “needed to be approached with the right balance of subtlety and audacity. Grace expertly handles Dom’s contradictions in surprising and human ways.” (Gummer deflects any credit back to Esmail: “He’s made a coloring book; I’m just filling in the colors.”) Raised in Connecticut with siblings Mamie, Louisa, and Henry, Gummer played lacrosse at Poly Prep in Brooklyn and found acting later than one might expect, given that her…

Dave Eggers has transported readers from the Sudanese civil war to the badlands of Silicon Valley, and in his appealingly humble latest, Heroes of the Frontier (Knopf), even a single mother’s Pinot Noir–fueled Alaska road trip with her two kids—eluding wildfires, a lawsuit, and a failed-to-bloom ex— takes on the quality of a heroic journey. A certain kind of New York immigrant afterlife is the subject of Lara Vapnyar’s Still Here (Hogarth), in which four Russians raised on Leonard Cohen and Mandelstam contend with digital-age romance and their own mortality. An American professor in Ireland with a reclusive film-star wife travels back to his own less glamorous past in Maggie O’Farrell’s haywire but heartfelt new novel, This Must Be the Place (Knopf). Few trips could be as emotionally freighted as…

BEAUTY NOTE Take stilettos to the next level with gravity-defying texture. L’Oréal Paris Hyper Fix Putty gives hair separation and hold.…

Balenciaga tote, $2,525 The humble boxy shopping bag, a street-fair wanderer’s companion, was given an extravagant upgrade in Demna Gvasalia’s debut collection for Balenciaga. Mixed in among the conceptual padded wool skirt-suits and the sculptural bubble-sleeved parkas, this outsize carryall—blithely slung over a leather mac–clad shoulder—was one of the many reimaginings that were walked cool-as-you-please down the runway. For a brand that has turned out It bag after covetable It bag, this is not merely the latest installment; it’s an announcement of an imminent takeover: Expect to see striped flashes of orange and red (and blue and green) from coast to sandy coast.…

95K in HER Element April Vogue found RiRi riding high and smoldering for photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. But it was what she told writer Abby Aguirre—that her only regret in life was not wearing a bedazzled thong to the CFDA Fashion Awards—that drove the Internet wild. “hahaha goals,” tweeted @sophieodl. ONE OF THE MOST TRULY EXQUISITE AND ARTISTIC COVERS #VOGUE HAS HAD IN MANY MOONS! @chanel4evah OUT OF ALL THE ISSUES SHE HAS GRACED THIS IS THE IMAGE THAT WILL BECOME ICONIC @annalauder LOVE THIS FRESH MAKEUP LOOK! @daraja_rae 1.1M ALL about Kendall Kendall Jenner’s first Vogue cover, photographed by Mario Testino, was one of a kind: a 52-page special edition dedicated to the model of the moment, sent only to subscribers. As fans scrambled to find a…

A quarter century after the Cold War ended, pop culture has fallen back in love with spy stories—the suspense, the double identities, the making things up as you go along. One gets all of this and more in Our Kind of Traitor, an enjoyable screen adaptation of John le Carré’s 2010 thriller about a vacationing English couple, professor Perry Makepiece (Ewan McGregor) and lawyer Gail Perkins (Naomie Harris), who are befriended by a flamboyant, bighearted Russian crook (Stellan Skarsgård) in trouble. Trying to help, these innocents soon find themselves caught between the Russian mafia and slippery British politicians. Although slighter than The Night Manager, Susanna White’s film features deft performances (Damian Lewis has a funny turn as a fussily righteous intelligence agent) and captures the essence of le Carré’s vision…

In a profession that rewards age and experience, the British-Ghanaian architect David Adjaye has hit the top without having to wait his turn. He has buildings or ongoing projects on four continents. He spends a third of his life on airplanes; maintains offices in London, New York, Berlin, and Accra; and rarely spends two consecutive nights in the same bed. He’s on the short list of architects now being considered for President Obama’s library. And on September 24, two days after his fiftieth birthday, the Adjaye-designed National Museum of African American History and Culture opens on the National Mall, in Washington, D.C. It is by far his most important building to date, and one of the most keenly anticipated monuments of our time. The exterior of the building has been…

in Paris this season, the buzz might have been all about Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia and his chic street reinvention of Balenciaga—but that phenomenon is symptomatic of the tsunami of excitement about a new wave of designers in the city who are bringing their own diverse cultural backgrounds and educations to the capital’s melting pot. Jacquemus’s Simon Porte Jacquemus was born to carrot farmers in Provence; Christelle Kocher, the founder and creative director of Koché, is from the culturally lively city of Strasbourg; and Johanna Senyk of Wanda Nylon was born to Polish parents and raised in Algeria. They might have studied, like Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena, at Brussels’s prestigious fashion school La Cambre (as did Anthony Vaccarello, the recently anointed creative director of Saint Laurent) or, like Kocher, at London’s…

Ever since that freezing day during February’s New York Fashion Week when a bundled-up audience had their pulses wantonly raised by the first sight of the Sies Marjan collection, the early spotters have been practicing their pronunciation. It will be essential to get it right, after all, when you murmur a subdued “Sies Marjan” to the umpteenth admirer who wants to know who made the prettily twisted floral-sprigged dress you’re wearing. “It’s Sees Mar-jahn,” says Sander Lak with a direct smile and an untraceable English-European accent. “It’s my parents’ first names together.” The gangly-limbed creative director of Sies Marjan, his shirt perpetually half-tucked-in, is a former head of design at Dries Van Noten—which partly explains the clamor surrounding his debut in the crumbling splendor of the Art Deco penthouse of…

When the artist and photographer Petra Collins cut her long, golden hair short as a teenager, she found herself wrestling with the result: a pendulum arc of wayward curls. Like so many women in the aughts, she pledged reluctant allegiance to the flatiron. But the 23-year-old—who exudes the noapologies confidence that has helped her become something of a feminist icon for the selfie generation—eased into her look after recognizing variations of it in film: Nancy Allen’s meangirl waves in 1976’s Carrie and Kelly Le Brock’s computer-generated coils in the eighties cult classic Weird Science. “I think being comfortable with this part of your body is really important, just like with anything else,” says Collins, who lensed this story and whose frothy, flaxen tendrils have become as much of a calling…

Bring home summer’s warm hues with one of Lisa Corti’s decorative tapestries, designed in her seventeenth-century studio in Milan and made in India according to ancient printing techniques. Her sources of inspiration are just as varied, as Corti, who grew up in Ethiopia, looked to both Florentine Medici frescoes and Nagaland shawls. The result? An inviting mix of florals and jewel-toned geometrics that can be draped over a daybed or hung like a work of art.…

Born in Georgia in 1891, the late Alma Thomas taught art at a D.C. middle school a mile from the White House—where one of her paintings now hangs in the permanent collection. Having pursued her M.F.A. on nights and weekends, she painted full-time only after she retired, becoming, in 1972, the first African-American woman to have a solo show at the Whitney. “She was finally able to create work with a freedom, and she developed a language all her own,” says Lauren Haynes, a curator at the Studio Museum in Harlem, which is opening a 50-plus-piece retrospective this month in collaboration with the Tang Teaching Museum at Skidmore College. Joyful bursts of color play off one another—pale pinks up against deep blues; an unexpected stripe of green. A nod to…

Table of contents: 32: On Schmidt: Gucci dress ($5,625), gloves ($225), and multifinger rings ($640–$1,150); select Gucci boutiques. Maison Close veiled eye mask, $50; Maison Close, NYC. Miriam Haskell earrings, $350; miriamhaskell.com. The Feather Place fan, $57; featherplace.com. On Brewster: Alexander McQueen dress (price upon request) and charm choker ($2,995); Alexander McQueen, NYC. Gaspar gloves, $85; gaspargloves.com. Gucci rings, $520 each; select Gucci boutiques. Fox & Bond diamond ring, $3,350; foxandbond.com. The Feather Place fan, $132; featherplace.com. Marc Jacobs platform shoes, $1,495; select Marc Jacobs stores. Costume supervisor for George Blagden, Camille Chandèze Longuépée. Cover look 44: Dress, $2,445; select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. Tailor, Leah Huntsinger for Christy Rilling Studio. Manicure, Gina Viviano for Chanel Le Vernis. Editor’s letter 52: Dress, $2,990; zacposen.com. Flash 68: On TNT: Sweater, $295;…