Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2016 i Vogue

Nikolaj COSTER-WALDAU In a show full of dastardly characters, Nikolaj Coster-Waldau’s Jaime Lannister emerged at the end of season five as Game of Thrones’s sympathetic dark horse—well, almost. “There is a lot that people connect to,” says Coster-Waldau of Jaime. “He’s in love with this woman, but she happens to be his sister. It’s a messed-up situation.” If he relates to some of the more likeable aspects of Jaime’s temperament, other parts—ruthlessness, megalomania, bloodthirstiness—are anathema to the 46-year-old father of two teenage girls. His “normal” life—when he’s not shooting GOT or the film projects he shoehorns into the show’s hiatus—is based in Denmark, where he lives with his wife and kids. “In a perfect world I would be with my family all the time,” says Coster-Waldau, “and every movie I’m…

In 2004, Priscilla and Lisa Marie Presley, and Lisa Marie’s daughter, Riley Keough, then fourteen, posed for the cover of Vogue’s Age Issue. In ball dresses, the three generations stood holding one another in a loose embrace, Lisa Marie and Riley staring down the camera with the cheekbone and chin structure impossible to detach from every iconic photo of Elvis. “I think I was one of the youngest people to be on the cover of Vogue,” recalls Keough, now 26, of the shoot. “But I was generally unfazed by things like that when I was a kid,” she adds. “In a good way.” Keough was raised with the idea that being as private as possible within the public eye was paramount. After a childhood spent under the radar, though, she…

Ronald van der Kemp is living proof that you can buck the fashion system and win. The Amsterdambased designer doesn’t do runway shows. He negates the idea of seasons, instead calling what he does a wardrobe, with all that implies: pieces resonant with personal choice; contradictory impulses somehow all making sense together. He very rarely buys fabrics, relying instead on the found, the sourced, the discovered (he was recently gifted a trove stashed away in the archive of the late Dutch couturier Frans Molenaar). And yet. . . . “I hate the word sustainability,” says van der Kemp, 51, one slate-gray afternoon in late January in Paris, where he is showing his newest garderobe during the haute couture, “but there is something about being ethical that is very good. I…

The Spanish house of Loewe may be built on exquisite leather craftsmanship, but it is creative director Jonathan Anderson’s obsession with the Bloomsbury Group that has given his latest endeavor—a splashy seven-piece furniture project showcasing during this month’s Salone del Mobile in Milan—its particular verve. “There’s such a sense of realness to it,” says Anderson, who hand-selected the antiques, now enlivened with bright leather marquetry landscapes and wildlife, and oversaw the design of other new pieces. “It’s made by real people, not machines.” Carp swim across wooden Japanese screens, and an imposing pine-green wardrobe (an original from the storied British furniture shop Heal’s) is emblazoned with a collaged sixties scarf print from the Loewe archive. “I wanted genuinely positive symbols—things that simply feel light and pleasant,” Anderson says. Two M.…

A steady rain falls outside the shoji-paper sliding doors of a dimly lit room on the outskirts of Kyoto. The afternoon’s kimono-clad host is kneeling on a tatami mat and demonstrating a series of precise movements passed down for generations. In serene silence, she pours hot water over a scoop of matcha powder and whisks the mixture into a froth. Then, readying her hishaku, a bamboo ladle, she fills a steaming cup of a creamy, bitter beverage for me to sip while I reflect on the tradition-soaked simplicity of the experience. The painstaking preparation of a Japanese tea ceremony is enough to make your to-go cup of morning coffee feel Philistine. But it’s the elevated ingredients at the heart of these ancient rites that inspire the most enduring fascination. While…

if you are in the market for revelatory—and pulsequickening— productions of plays that you thought you knew all too well, then the Belgian director Ivo van Hove is your man. On the heels of his devastating staging of Arthur Miller’s A View from the Bridge, van Hove returns to Broadway this month with his take on The Crucible, Miller’s thinly veiled allegory about the 1950s Communist witch hunts, set against the actual 1690s Salem witch hunts, featuring music by Philip Glass and an A-plus cast led by Ben Whishaw and, making her professional stage debut, Saoirse Ronan. After an early Crucible rehearsal, I catch up with Whishaw and Ronan. Perhaps best known for his role in the BBC’s fifties-set newsroom show The Hour, the 35-year-old British actor had an action-packed…

Director John Carney (Once) discovered the power of music somewhere in the early eighties. His new film, Sing Street, which he calls “a fantastical version of my teenage years,” is set in his hometown of Dublin, at a moment when the Irish economy was sliding and music videos were on the rise. Sixteen-year-old newcomer Ferdia Walsh-Peelo stars as Conor, who starts a band to impress an aspiring model with the mesmerizing name Raphina (Lucy Boynton). The makeshift group, called Sing Street after its members’ parochial school, becomes a paragon of New Romanticism, replete with Flock of Seagulls hair, guyliner, and chintzy music videos. Walsh-Peelo was cast for his proficiency on the guitar but felt a connection to more than the music. “My granddad, my father, and my uncles all went…

She knew if she waited long enough it would happen. The big bang, the cosmic crash, the delightful disturbance that would determine her true city fate,” thinks Lucy, the Idaho naïf turned art-world muse in Tuesday Nights in 1980 (Scout), Molly Prentiss’s love letter to a vanished New York. Innocence can be a kind of currency, one easily stolen, or so finds the young Midwestern waitress in Stephanie Danler’s memoir-like Sweetbitter (Knopf), whose tutelage by a jaded older couple gives way to Dangerous Liaisons–style lessons in oysters and betrayal. Don’t quit your day job: That’s the takeaway of Lisa Owens’s ruefully funny Not Working (Dial Press), featuring a Generation Y Bridget Jones, whose red wine–and–TED talk–fueled pursuit of a higher purpose in life leads to hard truths and hangovers. A…

TWO SHAKES Run, don’t walk, to the Rihanna: Anti World Tour, stopping at the Prudential Center in Newark on April 2. On Lily Aldridge (near right): Tory Sport shag backpack, $425; torysport.com. Ralph Lauren Collection jumpsuit, $2,990; select Ralph Lauren stores. Alix bikini top. Bulova watch. On Gigi Hadid: Chanel nylon-and-mesh backpack, $2,600; select Chanel boutiques. 3.1 Phillip Lim tank top, $275; 3.1 Phillip Lim, NYC. Sportmax pants, $595; Sportmax, NYC. Details, see In This Issue. Fashion Editor: Tabitha Simmons. CASING THE PLACE Power-lunch in vivid white and crisp primary colors at Covina, James Beard Award winner Tim Cushman’s new restaurant, opening this month in Manhattan’s Park South Hotel. Dior bag, $3,700; select Dior boutiques. Lacoste dress, $295; lacoste.com. Bulgari watch. BEAUTY NOTE Makeup mishaps shouldn’t slow you down. Prevent…

Miu Miu heel, $1,290 Behold the ultimate midnight mule—entirely handcrafted and teetering in at 120 millimeters. But look closely: It’s also a cleverly deconstructed Mary Jane bejeweled to resemble a starry, crystalline sky—and, while studded to resemble a brogue, its romantic evocation of the boudoir style of old Hollywood mimics that of a bedroom slipper. Though Miuccia Prada, eccentric as ever, paired the shoe with mustard stockings and a leather cape, we’d like to think there are no rules whatsoever for this remarkable, celestial shoe. Well, perhaps one: Wear exceptionally.…

To me, to the editors of Vogue, and no doubt to you, it feels like the magazine has been charting the influence of sports clothes on fashion for at least the past decade. And you’ll find plenty more such looks in this issue, whether the upgraded version of gym bags you can carry just about everywhere (What to Wear Where, page 274) or the futuristically inclined wardrobe depicted in “Tomorrowland” (page 217). Yet as writer Robert Sullivan discusses in his piece on the brilliantly innovative Nike and its ventures into fashion (Moment of the Month, page 270), the real story is about much more than the stylistic appropriation of hoods, sneaker soles, and track pants. It is instead about where we are today—dressing for a world where there has never…

I saw a friend’s sister model and thought, That’s what I’ll do. I was twelve.” The plan was to use the money she earned in front of the camera to put herself through film school. At nineteen, with no acting experience, Keough went on an audition to play Marie, sister of Dakota Fanning’s Cherie Currie, in the Kristen Stewart–led The Runaways—and she booked it. “I had no idea what to do,” she confesses. “I’d never been on a film set. To me, acting was what I liked watching, which was people being human and not too over-the-top.” Last summer, she appeared as one of the wives in Mad Max: Fury Road—in the process meeting a stuntman named Ben Smith-Petersen, who showed her around Australia, where the crew was doing reshoots.…

In Los Angeles for Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent show, I took the opportunity to head to the LACMA archives for a behind-the-scenes peek at “Reigning Men” (April 10 through August 21) with the museum’s senior costume curator, Sharon Takeda. Five years in the making, the exhibition celebrates the evolution of the peacock male from London’s macaronis of the 1770s to the Hanna-Barbera–colored hip-hop of Jeremy Scott. It wouldn’t have been possible without LACMA’s acquisition, in 2008, of the 500-piece costume collection assembled by rival London- and Switzerland-based dealers Martin Kamer and Wolfgang Ruf—“I marveled at the amazing cache of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century menswear,” Takeda said. Subsequent gifts and acquisitions, including a large 1980s and 1990s Armani wardrobe, outrageously widelegged 1920s Oxford bags, and an original 1940s zoot suit, bring the…

As summer-festival season begins to stir, designers across fashion’s stage have suggested a downright rocking way of accessorizing: the guitar-strap handbag. It started in New York, where, for spring, Marc Jacobs sent forth woven straps studded with bric-a-brac. Joseph Altuzarra has them for fall, with whipstitched edges and Axl Rose–esque paisley-bandanna tie-ons. (Rose reunites with the original Guns n’ Roses lineup at Coachella later this month.) European houses are holding their lighters high for the trend as well: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino propose a turquoise and metal–studded leash with a ruglike woven treatment. Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel collection has straps winking to Jack White’s famous White Stripes–era Airline guitar. And at Tod’s, Alessandra Facchinetti’s bags are perforated or adorned with antiqued-silver grommets. “I was thinking about Florence…

’20s As social and political change swept the nation, a modern woman emerged in the twenties. The Nineteenth Amendment inspired the embrace of newfound freedoms, and liberated suffragettes lopped off the long hair that defined their Victorian sensibilities. With closely cropped Vogue style stars like Coco Chanel and Louise Brooks leading the charge, short styles like THE BOB came into focus. ’30s The Jazz Age gave way to the Great Depression, and MARCEL WAVES relaxed into carefully rolled curls as Americans sought to escape reality through radio, swing music, and the silver screen. Hairstyles remained sleek at the crown and outwardly voluminous, making PIN CURLS swept into tailored updos a coiffing fixture. The world would go to war at the end of the decade, but Vogue encouraged continued dedication to…

Last summer, while vacationing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, I emerged from the cool, pristine lake to stretch out on the dock. As I lay back, dripping wet, on the sun-heated boards, I caught a glimpse of the slight ruffling of the skin on my thighs that, along with many other signs of aging, intensified with every passing year. I glanced over at my sunbathing summer neighbor, a tanned and toned competitive athlete around my age. She rose from the dock, sleekly lean, almost all muscle in her racing-back maillot. As she dove into the water, I saw that she, too, had orange-peel skin. I had been watching her with detached envy, but now I felt perversely relieved. According to Jeremy Green, M.D., a Miami dermatologist, more than…

At one time, a classic dish was a prisoner of geography. If you wanted to eat a true margherita pizza, you had to travel to Naples because the purists would tell you even the version you could find in Rome wasn’t quite right; by the time you got to Milan, it was just a cheese pizza. But the borders that separate culinary cultures don’t mean that much anymore. Now you can get a margherita at Roberta’s in Brooklyn that would make a grown Italian weep salty tears of joy, or a plate of tacos at Hija de Sanchez in Copenhagen that could stand up to the stalls in Mexico City where the taxis patiently wait. Which is why I wasn’t entirely surprised by the croque madame at Gjusta in Venice…

70.7K Miss 2016 Finding a new face for the cover of Vogue always feels like an event, and the time was right for ingenue turned superstar Alicia Vikander. Our January feature “All About Alicia,” photographed by David Sims, delighted commenters: “Oh my gosh! She’s stunning thank you!” wrote @kyla_christopher on Instagram. “So pretty,” added Fionn Sleeps on Facebook. And Rob Haskell’s intimate profile (complete with skydiving adventure) revealed Vikander as the Swede next door. “I love you, Alicia,” wrote one Vogue.com user. We do too. SIMPLY THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WOMAN ON EARTH @ artdan62 MY NEW FAVORITE GIRL @ bagus_santoso SHE IS NEXT LEVEL!! @ reyjeane # VIEWED STORY FOR TWO MONTHS RUNNING O Canada! Turns out our neighbors to the north are strongly opinionated social-media users. From the moment…

Have you ever wondered what the other side of the world looks like? I have—ever since I was a little girl in my nursery spinning a big illuminated globe. The farther the better, I thought: Easter Island, French Polynesia, Papua New Guinea, New Zealand. What a pristine place New Zealand is! All tumbling green hills, and forests thicker than any I have seen. On a recent visit, I found my childhood fantasies matched again and again. My friend Eva-Maria Shuman and I took a bumpy ride in a single-engine plane over Milford Sound—a fjord framed by waterfalls that made us gasp in amazement. We saw snowcapped mountains like sugar-coated chunks of Toblerone, glaciers, and brilliant-green islands dotting the water. It was no wonder even a seasoned traveler like Rudyard Kipling…

Last May, Pat McGrath found herself in an unusual predicament: She was running out of gold. The supply of theatrical gold pigment she had sourced in bulk two decades earlier during an international exploit as one of the world’s most-wanted makeup artists was dwindling. “I started to panic,” she admits, growing momentarily wistful about the precious fairy dust that is one of her many calling cards. But a fortuitous trip to a laboratory in an undisclosed location would ease her anxiety. “I’d never seen anything so beautiful ever in the history of making makeup,” McGrath says. The gilded discovery would become Gold 001, the molten metallic liquid-powder mixture heard round the Internet that she teased on lips at Prada’s spring show before revealing it to the public in a flash…

Shashi Batra was an early apostle for natural beauty. As part of the landmark team that imported Sephora to the U.S. in the late nineties, he wanted to push organic moisturizers and serums into the mainstream—a challenging task at the time. “No one was coming in looking for that,” he confesses. Flash forward 20 years, and the demand for natural products has ballooned: A study published in 2015 estimates sales at $33 billion. Encouraged, Batra began preaching the green gospel again. Last winter, he launched Credo (Latin for “I believe”), an e-commerce site devoted entirely to so-called clean personal-care brands. When he opened a brick-and-mortar store in San Francisco a few months later, people paid attention. “It’s genius,” says eco-chic trailblazer Tata Harper, who installed her first mini-spa in the…

EX MACHINA “Unfussy” isn’t a new ideal, but it has great currency. We all want to be, finally, liberated from physically constricting clothes—and sartorial foolishness. That’s why a loose top and lounge-y, laid-back pants are the shape of things to come. Model Joan Smalls wears a Vetements shirtdress, $1,180; matchesfashion.com. Boss pants, $375; select Hugo Boss stores. Honda humanoid robot. Details, see In This Issue. Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman. GAME CHANGER Robot for the win! (And, on Mom, minimalism’s winningest color combination.) Ralph Lauren Collection silk-jersey cropped sweater, $890; select Ralph Lauren stores. Calvin Klein Collection pants, $950; Calvin Klein Collection, NYC. Cartier watch. On Abraham: Vineyard Vines shirt. Bonpoint shorts. On Ava: Oscar de la Renta dress. On actor Nikolaj Coster-Waldau: ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo T-shirt. Linde Werdelin watch.…

STEADY NOW Biles, in a GK Elite Sportswear leotard, credits her surefootedness to her powers of concentration—and 30 minutes of core work every day. Hair, Jawara; makeup, Yumi Lee. Details, see In This Issue. Sittings Editor: Phyllis Posnick. I’m trying to improve my balance,” I tell a friend when she phones and asks what I’m up to. “Aren’t we all?” She sighs. “I feel like I’m constantly racing around and never accomplishing anything.” But I’m not talking about the eternal quest for work-life equilibrium. I’m actually standing (fine, wobbling) on my left leg, doing biceps curls with my right arm, atop a BOSU ball. Inspiring me is the nineteen-year-old gymnastics star Simone Biles, whom I watched at the recent world championships in Glasgow spinning 900 degrees on one foot on…

PUTTING ON AIR After releasing a couple of attentiongrabbing mix tapes, Houston-born rapper Travis Scott debuted his acclaimed album Rodeo late last year. Scott wears a NikeLab x RT jacket ($225), T-shirt ($75), and shorts ($120); nike.com/nikelab. Nike tights and sneakers. Model Joan Smalls wears a NikeLab x RT crop top ($110) and 2-in-1 shorts ($210); nike.com/nikelab. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci earrings and shoes. Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci bangles. Details, see In This Issue. Fashion Editor: Sara Moonves. In the beginning, sports and fashion were two worlds, separately created by separate gods. In 1964, when Bill Bowerman shook hands with Phil Knight and set out on the road to designing Nike’s now iconic shoes with a waffle iron in a kitchen in Oregon (all function, very little form),…

Contents 64: Top, $990; By George, Austin, TX. Skirt, $990; (312) 587-1000 for information. Shoes, price upon request; select Prada boutiques. Cover look 72: Dress, price upon request; Tom Ford, NYC. Editor’s letter 80: On Rihanna: Dress, price upon request; Saint Laurent, NYC, (212) 980-2970. Contributors 120: On Fanning: Top ($300) and pants ($325); needsupply.com. Flash 136: Dress, $8,500; gucci.com. Alexis Bittar ring, $275; Alexis Bittar boutiques. View 166: Charlotte Chesnais ring, $570; Dover Street Market New York. Maison Margiela Line 12 Fine Jewellery Collection 18K-gold twofinger ring ($1,300) and 18K–white gold two-finger ring ($1,400); Maison Margiela boutiques. Isabel Marant sandals, $585; Isabel Marant, San Francisco. 168: On van der Kemp: Sweater and pants (priced upon request); sandro-paris.com. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci sneakers, $495; neimanmarcus.com. Görner: Painting Gallery, Berlin. Paintings:…