Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2016 i Vogue

Spring FEVER Fresh skin and power brows are the prerequisites for the look of the moment. And whether you’re shopping the latest makeup trends, making a major haircolor transformation, or picking a pretty perfume, our guide to spring beauty will carry you effortlessly through the season. GET READY TO WEAR The fall 2016 collections are upon us. Follow the fashion pack as they do the New York, London, Milan, Paris circuit, and check out Vogue Runway for up-to-the minute coverage of the shows, including instant runway photos, reviews by our top critics, beauty tutorials, and party reports. COMING SOON This spring, we bring you a guide to the best art, film, TV, music, and books to keep on your radar and consume. It’s a SMALL World It’s always Fashion Week…

As a young child I loved playing next to a sculpture of goat atop a pig, two dogs atop the goat, and a little birdie crowning them all. It was Stacked, by Jeff Koons—not that the name mattered to me back then. All I cared about was the sculpture’s size, presence, and strange narrative. My mother managed to blend this and other not-always-easy works of art into our family home. Artists came to stay with us, too: Koons, Keith Haring, George Condo . . . there was always someone passing through, and often they became my favorite guests. I wonder if my interest in art is even remotely surprising, with such an upbringing. Recently I’ve been seeing work by a couple of emerging artists wherever I go—art fairs and gallery…

Jeremy Scott has been fashion’s prince of pop culture ever since Björk came wailing at his studio door back in the late nineties, after his inventive third collection—of white T-shirts reworked to suggest body dysmorphia— set him firmly on the style map. So when, in 2013, he was approached to become the creative director of Moschino, the Italian house founded by the “fashion humorist” Franco Moschino in 1983, it was, as Scott remembers, “a no-brainer”—after all, he was famed for his early campy conceits, which included sending models out to stumble down runways in high heels of different heights, or dressed as glamorous Mad Men–era stewardesses or disco goddesses. The designer has spent the ensuing three years folding his passion for cartoons and mass-market Middle Americana into his playfully uplifting,…

One Saturday when I was in the seventh grade, I snuck off to Manhattan’s Eighth Street to get a doublepierce in my left ear at one of the block’s storefront piercing parlors. When I returned home to reveal to my mother what turned out to be my sole act of tweenage rebellion, she simply shrugged—probably relieved I hadn’t gone for a tattoo on St. Marks Place or a blue mohawk at the barbershop on Astor Place, which were the real ways to rebel in late-eighties New York. Fast-forward to 2016, though, and tattoos are no longer taboo, blue hair’s no biggie, and I’m wishing I had even more piercings (three, four, five?) snaking all the way up my ear— maybe even one in the upper cartilage, the helix, which apparently…

esperanza Spalding describes her artistic alter ego as if it were her new best friend. “It was the day before my twenty-ninth birthday,” she recalls, “when Emily came knocking on my door. I saw a little performance in my head, I heard fragments of a song, but I didn’t realize she was a whole character.” The Berklee College of Music–trained Spalding, now 31, has a knack for surprises: At the 2011 Grammys, she beat out Justin Bieber and Drake for Best New Artist, becoming the first jazz musician ever to win that award. This month, Emily’s D+Evolution, Spalding’s fifth studio album, propels her music in a whole new direction. Coproduced with longtime David Bowie collaborator Tony Visconti, it sees the Brooklyn-based artist embrace her electric bass over her acoustic one,…

Inspired by the fringe and other embellishments gracing the runways, designers bring a bohemian spirit to the home. Amira Marion lends a Guatemalan influence to handwoven, tasseled pillows in coral, periwinkle, and aqua for Archive New York. And the Brooklyn-based Stephanie Singer-Eventov of Society of Wonderland frames the bright kaleidoscopic prints on her custom Bells + Whistles pillows in complementary trim.—SAMANTHA REES…

At Facebook’s sprawling campus in Menlo Park, California, Karlie Kloss is teaching Instagram CEO Kevin Systrom to smize. A few minutes later, as they prepare for the photo shoot on these pages, Systrom and Kendall Jenner find they agree that “Kanye Doing Things” is pretty much the best Instagram account ever. As Karlie, Kendall, and the other so-called Instagirls make abundantly clear, social media have transformed fashion. “Tech is about communication,” says the Balmain creative director, Olivier Rousteing. “In the past, fashion has been able to communicate to only one small clique. But with social media, fashion can go pop.” Systrom agrees. “I think this represents a revolution in the fashion industry,” he says. “Designers understand thepower of being open—and whether it’s fashion or politics, a closed system always loses…

For much of the last year, a pyramid of dug-up earth has loomed over the 175-acre Northern California park where Apple’s future headquarters, a vast ring designed by Norman Foster, is rising out of glass and steel. “Hard to know which is more beautiful, the building or that pile of dirt,” says Apple CEO Tim Cook with a wide smile on a recent morning, as he stands among the construction crew in their acid-yellow vests and gazes at the tall mountain of soil, its stepped surfaces painted a dark gold by the sun. Not a speck of dirt is to be removed from the campus; instead it will nourish a forest of more than 7,000 trees, which in turn will nourish a village of some 13,000 techies tinkering in silicon.…

On a wintry Tuesday night, I jostle my way through the packed lobby of the Circle in the Square Theatre, where the 2015 Best Musical Tony winner, Fun Home, adapted from Alison Bechdel’s graphic memoir, is enjoying a triumphant run. I am in search of Oskar Eustis, the artistic director of the Public Theater, which gave Fun Home its start. Six-foot-two and broad of frame, with a robust head of gray-flecked brown hair, a semi-tamed goatee, and large, expressive features—not to mention a giant set of white teeth that look capable of cracking walnuts—Eustis, even dressed down in a hoodie, jeans, and work boots, is hard to miss. His emotions, too, famously run to the larger-than-life, and he greets me with a warm bear hug. I gesture toward the humming…

Céline bag, $3,250 Though “utilitarian” is hardly the prettiest appellation, it’s central to the charm of this lustrous holdall bucket, the latest must-tote from Phoebe Philo’s inimitably sleek Céline. The interlocking geometry of its smoothed calfskin squares— pieced just so to reveal clean slices of pale Japanese canvas beneath—calls to mind crisp sheets of artisanal, brick-toned origami paper. The look is at once uncomplicated, unembellished—and unequaled for elegant, chic simplicity.…

Those of you who are regular readers of Vogue know that one of the things we’re keen on is placing fashion within the context of the cultural and societal factors that can shape it in profound and meaningful ways. Something seismic has clearly been happening these last six months, if what we saw at the spring 2016 collections is anything to go by. The word we kept coming back to after those shows was disruption, and in “The Great Disruption” (page 457) you can discover the designers both established and new who are upending the industry, not to mention our closets, with their exciting, break-all-the-rules visions of how things should look and be. The portfolio accompanying Sarah Mower’s story also allowed us to photograph a few swaggeringly cool characters whom…

In Sydney in the early eighties, I was in a play about Elvis Presley called Are You Lonesome Tonight? My part was the two-bit punk whose girl runs off with Elvis at the end. David Bowie’s Serious Moonlight tour was in town, but I wasn’t going—I can’t recall if it was opening night or if I was just broke; likely some combination of the two. In my disappointment I must have pushed it out of my mind, because I remember being surprised to hear Bowie’s voice while I wandered home through the streets. It was summer. The sun sets very late back home; there’s a tense moment when everything turns purple until the sun just gives up. “Let’s Dance” was cutting very clearly through the air. I thought it was…

Elizabeth Nyamayaro, the architect of HeForShe—a global campaign that invites men to work toward gender equality—grew up in a small Zimbabwean village. In a recent TEDWomen talk, for which she wore a crisp peplum top and matching skirt, she described being eight and admiring a certain “girl in the blue uniform”—a U.N. aid worker. Soon after, Nyamayaro attended school for the first time and, finding herself years behind, resolved to do “better and better and better,” ending up with a master’s from the LSE and a job with the Joint United Nations Programme on HIV/AIDS in Geneva. As if Nyamayaro’s own story isn’t exceptional enough, she cites Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka, executive director of U.N. Women and a former anti-apartheid activist, as a true inspiration. “She understood the importance of forgiveness and…

SAINT LAURENT “Hedi Slimane has taken the timeless silhouette of YSL and mixed in grunge, punk, and a little folk music and made it cool again. To put it nicely, Saint Laurent is just badass.” CHRISTEN WILSON, writer, Dallas ALICIA VIKANDER IN A SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE SHAG VEST, DRESS, AND TIARA. SAINT LAURENT, NYC. PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID SIMS. Once, not so very long ago, a woman like Alyson Cafiero had to rely on a small coterie of editors and high-end retailers to fuel her fashion fantasies. If these all-powerful professionals didn’t care for a particular collection—or if the best store in her city didn’t carry it— she was out of luck. Now Cafiero, a fashion and jewelry consultant who lives in Brooklyn, blithely ticks off the places where…

In skimming through the looks of Warm, the new casualwear collection from design director Tracy Feith—yes, the same Tracy Feith whose effervescent print dresses are now collector’s items since the 2010 shuttering of his namesake label—and creative director Winnie Beattie, owner of the Nolita boutique also called Warm, you can almost feel the sun on your neck and the salt on your tongue. It’s a boardwalk effect born of Beattie and Feith’s long-shared (and on-trend) love of surfand-skate culture. “We jokingly wanted to call the line Betty,” says Beattie, “because for me that’s the ultimate compliment. To be, like, a surf Betty. Our girl isn’t really a glamazon—she’s natural, earthy, and a little bit imperfect.” Feith, on the phone from Beachwood Canyon in L.A., agrees. “There needs to be some…

Scan the shelves at any number of influential boutiques, and you’re likely to come across a new class of covetable item: bar soap. Improbable, sure, to purists raised on old-school staples like Coast and Dial, with their face-slapping fresh scents and grime-stripping utility. But thanks to a growing community of modern makers dedicated to updating traditional techniques, the humble bar soap is having a renaissance. Think of it as the new scented candle: a small, giftable luxury, with an unexpected dose of consideration. There’s a cathartic allure to the tactile process of both handmixing and lathering up with these elevated bars. “It’s soothing, it’s simple, it’s methodical,” says Karen Kim, explaining why she hung up her product-director hat at the online retailer La Garçonne early last year to start Binu…

In the painting, she stands sideways, emerging from a riotous background of tulips, roses, anemones, and other blossoms, casting a slightly mischievous look at the viewer. Her face is vivid and complete, the rest of her just sketched in. This 1918 portrait by Gustav Klimt of the sensual, dark-haired beauty Ria Munk was commissioned as an aide-mémoire by her mother, whose daughter had shot herself seven years earlier, when her betrothed (bad-boy poet Hanns Heinz Ewers) called off their wedding. After completing two earlier versions that were rejected, Klimt died in the middle of painting this last, unfinished one. Confiscated by the Nazis in 1941, it was eventually returned to the family’s heirs, who sold it at Christie’s in 2010 for just under $28 million. It will be one among…

Television used to romanticize families. Now it drops them into the frying pan to see how everyone handles the heat. In ABC’s The Family, a twisty new series created by Shonda Rhimes protégée Jenna Bans, Joan Allen plays Claire Warren, a calculating Maine mayor whose young son (Liam James) was supposedly murdered ten years earlier. Then he turns up, shocking everyone, including her grief-guru husband (Rupert Graves), campaignmanager daughter (Alison Pill), and dissolute older son (Zach Gilford). A freewheeling mixture of 12 Years a Slave and Empire that begins on a Georgia plantation, WGN America’s gripping pre– Civil War drama Underground centers on a band of slaves, led by Noah (charismatic Aldis Hodge), who plan to escape to freedom 600 miles north. Meanwhile, SundanceTV’s Hap and Leonard is an enjoyable…

My introduction to meal kits came via duck with chimichurri. It was 2011. A friend had started an online company that delivered premeasured ingredients— in this case Hudson Valley duck breast, a shallot, half a jalapeño, kale, fingerling potatoes, and herbs—and a recipe to homes in Brooklyn. Wary of the slippery slope of detaching cooks from choosing their own meat and vegetables—not to mention from basic cutting and measuring skills—I turned decisively against the idea when, after I offered to deliver a jute bag of duck, et cetera, to free my friend up for a date, I looked inside, found cilantro smashed under potatoes, and declared him an immoral opportunist. Other than bad packing, his only real sin was bad timing. (He was Friendster, not Facebook.) Kits like the ones…

♥ 122K Candid CAMERA The December cover-story reunion (“Laying Down the Law”) between Jennifer Lawrence and Contributing Editor Jonathan Van Meter—a sequel of sorts to the infamous bender they went on together for Vogue’s September 2013 issue—had all the ribald humor (“This is where the maaagic haaaappens,” Lawrence joked, pointing to her bed) and no-holds-barred honesty readers might have expected. Madison Rexroat, of Georgetown, KY, wrote us, “Jennifer’s authenticity as a young woman and as a feminist is a huge inspiration to me and other women (and men!),” while Emily Hottel King of Virginia Beach, VA, asked, “Who doesn’t love Jennifer Lawrence?” The photography, by Mikael Jansson, garnered plenty of affection too: “insanely gorgeous” (@pakapakaofficial), “flawless” (@angem_5), “incredible” (@rws_enterprises). SHE’S LITERALLY GOALS @ giovannaamala OMG CAN’T LOOK AWAY @ lenatrbojevic…

There is a rehab center tucked in the mountains outside Estes Park, Colorado, a town known as the gateway to the Rockies. My younger sister and I flew in from New York City and drove through a snowstorm to spend a “healing” weekend with my father, who was finishing up his 30 days. They had put him on lithium and Thorazine, and they weren’t mixing well. He had better diction after a bottle of gin than he did with the pills. While the patients completed their “closing ceremony,” we sat on plastic chairs in a semicircle around a space heater with the other family members. They were haggard parents, bereft siblings, thickened men and women aged before their time by dealing with their addicts. We were the only children of…

I’m a huge David Bowie fan,” says Tessa Thompson. “I loved the way he would dress to feel a certain way.” As Thompson has trotted around the red carpets of the globe promoting her latest film, Creed, the actress has discreetly become (like the late, great Ziggy Stardust progenitor) a fashion chameleon who’s managed the trickiest of sartorial transitions—from splashy, sparkling Marc Jacobs to simple, effortless Adam Lippes, and back to frothy, gilded Valentino—with aplomb. “I want to feel like myself,” she says, “but when you’re on the red carpet, you’re sort of an extension of yourself.” When she first started out (particularly on the promotional tour for Dear White People), Thompson preferred to dress herself. It was when she began working with a stylist that she became a deep-fashion…

The Caribbean isle of Mustique long ago assumed an almost mythic place in my mind’s eye. A speck of the Grenadines powdered into the roiling West Indies seas, it was a fairly desolate place when the eccentric visionary Colin Tennant (the future third Lord Glenconner) acquired it for £45,000 in 1958. He had intended to cultivate cotton there but instead suavely gifted his friend Princess Margaret a piece of land on one of the most spectacular sites when she wed Lord Snowdon, and the island subsequently became a discreet Edenic hideaway for aesthetes and plutocrats. (Tennant also commissioned Snowdon’s uncle—the inspired theater designer Oliver Messel, who had built some pretty houses on nearby Barbados—to design the enchanting Les Jolies Eaux for the queen’s sister.) Since then, creative minds including Mick…

“I don’t like fashion that feels too throwaway. If I own a piece from a designer’s current collection and they show something that feels close to it the next season, that makes me happy.” ALEXANDRA SINGER, writer, San Francisco “I have enough restraint to outsmart the retailers. The bargains start to arrive at about the time that I actually need the clothes.” DAWN KIERNAN, marketing executive, Brooklyn “It would be nice if fashion spoke more to the present season so I could wear the clothes immediately. I like a little instant gratification.” ALEXA RICE, advertising account executive, New York City “I pay a lot of attention to the shows. When Fashion Week starts, I’m practically glued to my computer and fed intravenously.” PERI ARENAS, entrepreneur, Los Angeles “If you don’t…

Grace Coddington has strong opinions about fragrance. “I really hate incense,” she says on a sunny afternoon a few weeks into the New Year. Sitting in her office in downtown New York, she’s sipping her usual— a can of Coke—and dressed in her usual: black Celine tuxedo pants, a black Prada sweater, and white Saint Laurent sneakers. Her fair-skinned face bears a slick of carefully chosen red lipstick, and her iconic red hair is a glorious center-parted cloud. Coddington has never really worn much perfume, she admits, as she finds most too “clingy and strong.” Except for rose notes, which are permeating the room. The delicate bloom is at the heart of the 74-year-old editor’s debut scent, Grace by Grace Coddington, which she has just reapplied to her pulse points.…

Each syringe of Restylane Silk and Juvéderm Ultra XC contains 1 ml of hyaluronic acid filler. “Usually one syringe is more than enough,” says Manhattan dermatologist Ellen Marmur, M.D., who notes that on average, a full syringe of either formula will run between $600 and $900. (For a more “modest fullness,” a half-dose runs closer to $300.) Here, five doctors with noted expertise in volume control. LEONARD MILLER, M.D. Boston Center for Facial Rejuvenation, 1 Brookline Pl., #427, Brookline, MA (617) 735-8735; leonardmillermd.com ELLEN MARMUR, M.D. Marmur Medical, 12 E. 87th St., 1A, NYC (212) 996-6900; marmurmedical.com ALICIA ZALKA, M.D. Dermatology Associates of Western Connecticut, 120 Park Lane Rd., New Milford, CT (860) 350-4152; dermwestconn.com LISA AIRAN, M.D. 910 Fifth Ave., NYC (212) 400-0999; drlisaairan.com DAVID ORENTREICH, M.D. Orentreich Medical…

Keith McNally has planted his culinary flag in New York City’s booming Financial District. The forthcoming Augustine will anchor yet another neighborhood newcomer—the stately, landmarked, and long-awaited Beekman Hotel, which is emerging from an immaculate renovation this spring. On the ground floor, in one of the two restaurants (Tom Colicchio spearheads the other), McNally is sticking to what he does best, serving refined French fare such as petit aioli, lobster salad, and grilled porterhouse. “It won’t feel different to some people,” he demurs, but “the food will be lighter, more inspired by the market.” With a rakish hint at the appeal of being situated within a lush, beautifully appointed New York hotel, McNally suggests that Augustine may be just the place to pursue a spring romance: “This is a restaurant…

having acted in a St. Petersburg production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream as a child, George Balanchine transformed Shakespeare’s tale into a full-length narrative ballet some 50 years later. “I realized he was choreographing to the text and not the music,” says Lourdes Lopez, artistic director of Miami City Ballet, who is premiering a sensual update in which the woods of a sixteenth-century Athens have been replaced by the ocean floor. Titania will be danced by Simone Messmer, formerly of ABT, who, says Lopez, possesses a “musicality that exudes from her skin.” Messmer will also likely appear in Balanchine’s Serenade when the company makes its Lincoln Center debut in April. Another master of the form channels the written word in Brodsky/Baryshnikov, at the Baryshnikov Arts Center this month. After the…

Well behaved people rarely make history.” Scroll down Alexander Wang’s personal Instagram account, @alexwangny, and you’ll find those bold words in a post that just about sums up the generational attitude knocking down the gilded gates of the citadel of fashion—or, perhaps, climbing over its backyard wall and staging an occupation. “I’m more and more encouraged to go by my instinct,” says Wang. And less and less inclined, he adds, to fall in with “the way things were always done prehistorically.” Zing! In 2016, something has finally hit critical mass in the industry. Whole groups of people formerly excluded from the halls of the approved have moved into its center, bringing with them their own ideas about beauty, LGBT liberation, independence, and feminism. All this at a time when designer…

Broadway musicals in recent years have featured leading characters that break the traditional mold, from a peppy Mormon missionary to a hip-hop-spouting Founding Father. To this list can now be added an Armani-wearing Wall Street shark who moonlights as a serial killer. That would be Patrick Bateman, the not-quite hero of American Psycho, Bret Easton Ellis’s infamously violent and sadistic 1991 novel about the soullessness of the go-go eighties (and Mary Harron’s 2000 film version starring a young Christian Bale). As the stage adaptation of American Psycho gets set to open at the Gerald Schoenfeld Theatre, the big news is not the gore but the return to Broadway of Benjamin Walker (Bloody Bloody Andrew Jackson) in a show with period-inspired dance songs by Duncan Sheik (Spring Awakening), stylishly directed by…

ATTEN-TION! On model Lineisy Montero: Bottega Veneta cotton-gabardine jacket ($3,350) and cashmere-silk pants ($1,200); (800) 845-6790. Calvin Klein Collection suede halter top; Calvin Klein Collection, NYC. Pilar Olaverri earrings. Emporio Armani bag. Vince sandals. Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman. Printed Posse Had some fearless fashion forecaster told us a mere handful of years ago that wearing a jacket and trousers in—wait!—a matching print was going to be one of the leading trends to kick off 2016, we’d have laughed hard enough to fall out of our platforms. Yet the unthinkable has come to pass: Fabulously printed pantsuits paraded down the spring runways—from Versace and Giambattista Valli to Bottega Veneta and Alessandro Michele for Gucci. “The idea was to create grace in movement,” says Bottega’s Tomas Maier, “to combine sportswear with a…

point blanc 1. Burberry jacket and jeans ($1,150); burberry.com. R.J. Graziano earrings. Marni bag. Miu Miu boots. 2. Anemone stem, $200 for 24; Flower Girl NYC, NYC. 3. Sonia by Sonia Rykiel jeans, $200; Bloomingdale’s stores. 4. Christopher Kane shirt, $895; Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. 5. Casadei boot, $695; casadei.com. 6. Etienne Aigner bag, $195; Etienne Aigner, NYC. 7. Smith & Cult Nailed Lacquer in Lovers Creep, $18; neimanmarcus.com. polished pinup 1. Marc Jacobs jacket, blouse ($995), and trousers ($350); Marc Jacobs stores. Max Mara bag. 2. Rockins scarf, $225; rockins.co.uk. 3. Kate Spade New York jacket, $198; katespade.com. 4. Levi Strauss & Co. neon sign; 1stdibs.com. 5. Creatures of the Wind jeans, $1,320; Neiman Marcus stores. 6. Proenza Schouler bag, $1,150; Proenza Schouler, NYC. 7. Dior heel, $1,100; select Dior…