Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2017 i Vogue Australia

When Tony Ellwood, director of the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV), told me that he had secured an independently curated exhibition of the best of Christian Dior couture, which would celebrate and include the work of all seven designers to head up the house, I was beyond thrilled. The show is world class. Beautifully curated by Katie Somerville, it represents, I would argue, the best and most comprehensive fashion exhibition that has ever been staged in Australia. Christian Dior chose three cities in which to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the house this year, and Melbourne is one of them (alongside New York and Paris), thanks to this wonderful show. The special connection with Australia is nothing new for Dior. In fact, the relationship spans back decades to 1948, when…

Who knew millinery could be so rife with political connotations? A glance backward, and the beret has topped the heads of some of the most brazen boundary pushers and cannily courageous in history: from counterculture beatniks (though somewhat a stereotype), punks and Pablo Picasso to political revolutionaries – Che Guevara and the Brown Berets among them. History lesson aside, the beret emerges again in 2017 as a fully fledged top hat of myriad incarnations and nonconformist possibility. It began with Gucci’s beautifully doleful misfits donning theirs at the beginning of Alessandro Michele’s reign. They went on to populate the runways of Acne, Maison Margiela and, more recently, Giorgio Armani and Jacquemus, before reaching haute proportions at Dior in lambskin this season. It might be the street-wise edge that has the…

“WE’VE MOVED ON FROM THE REDUCTIVE 90S WOMAN” Ask a fashion editor who she most envies and you might be surprised. Historical icons aside, names such as Isabelle Kountoure and Jessica Diehl, fashion directors at Wallpaper* and Vanity Fair respectively, crop up alongside the subdued Scandi-chic Elin Kling, as does Isabel Marant (“She’s the modern Chanel,” one tells me). A fellow Vogue staffer revers the sultry but rigorously dressed Barbara Martelo, whose wardrobe bedrock is 51 shades of black and denim. “It’s because she’s a jeans and T-shirt woman,” she says simply. But where are the avant-garde rule breakers? Where are the It girls and style savants, in their trippy Gucci-laden get ups, or the Demna Gvasalia-designed Balenciaga fetish boots? In all the head-turning hubbub of fashion weeks and the…

“I’M AN ORDINARY GIRL BORN INTO EXTRAORDINARY CIRCUMSTANCES: I AM THE FIRST WOMAN IN MY FAMILY TO HAVE EXECUTIVE RESPONSIBILITIES IN THE BUSINESS”– ISHA AMBANI Who is Isha Ambani? At first glance, she’s a beautiful Indian heiress who attends international society events in custom-designed Dior gowns. Dig deeper and you see she is gracious, generous, articulate and level-headed. The Yale graduate is the only daughter of Mukesh Ambani, India’s richest man, and the heiress to India’s largest private sector company, Reliance Industry Limited (RIL). Isha Ambani, 25, holds India’s future in her hands. Currently pursuing an MBA at Stanford Graduate School of Business, she is also on the board of Reliance Jio Infocomm and Reliance Retail. She displays a single-minded focus when it comes to what she calls her dharma…

1. THROW OUT THE RULE BOOK “There was a time when everything was dictated. It used to be if you have blue eyes you couldn’t wear blue eyeshadow. Nowadays it’s all about your individual personality and how to express yourself.” 2. BLUSH UP “If you look at a face, the eyes and the lips are the main focus points. But don’t forget the cheeks. Make sure you apply blush, because it links everything together. It can be helpful when you’re playing with colour.” 3. EMBRACE INDIVIDUALITY “If you are a girl who expresses herself in bold colour, that’s a good thing; if you shy away from bold colour, you should not force yourself to wear it. Put it on, and if it’s not good, take it off.” 4. TRENDS ARE…

“(Australia is) a young country relatively unscathed by war, something that made the land the perfect place to showcase my designs” – Christian Dior, 1948. When Paris-based models travelled to Australia to exclusively model Christian Dior’s couture collection in 1957, there was one rule for the seven women with the tiny waists and perfectly coiffed French chignons: no sunbathing. “Although I visited Bondi Beach, we certainly had to be very careful not get a suntan, because it would not go with the clothes,” recalls Svetlana Lloyd of the historic Australian tour. A former ballerina, Ms Lloyd was one of seven models – then known as mannequins – who paraded the 83-piece collection in David Jones’s Sydney and Melbourne stores. It was an extraordinary coup for the Australian department store, albeit…

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DUCKIE THOT Sudanese-Australian model Duckie Thot makes her Vogue debut this month: “It was my first time shooting for Vogue, so I was extremely excited to begin with,” says Thot, who features in “Girl interrupted”, from page 138. Now based in New York, the young model was photographed during a recent trip home to Sydney. “We started at dawn, so it was a big day, but the team was so lovely and took care of me in the best way possible.” MARK VASSALLO Mark Vassallo styled Lou Kenny for “The age of beauty”, from page 156. “Lou has an amazing energy, wisdom and peace,” he says of the 58-year-old Australian model. Vassallo explains that inspiration came from Kenny’s own influences: “Her style icon was Patti Smith.” ALEX WHITE For this…

ACADEMY AWARDS Multiple couturières at a time worked on the cream and black plunge-neck dress Williams wore at the 2017 Oscars The contrast of whisper thin tulle and heavy velvet was Ghesquière’s way of melding feminine and masculine elements. GOLDEN GLOBES The floqué lace off-shoulder dress created for the Golden Globes was an exercise in Louis Vuitton-style dexterity. Smoke-white and black lace was built up into minute ruching; discreet panelling hugged the body and looked structured, but was in fact near-transparent. The velvet ribbon was a last-minute addition that came to define the overall look. THE BAFTAS “This dress is more mod because it was for a British ceremony, which is less formal,” says Ghesquière of the dress derived from look 17 of Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer ’17 collection. It took…

HERE IS A COUPLE THEN, WHO LIVE, WORK AND TRAVEL TOGETHER They are the consummate poster couple: he is the attractive, fiendishly talented violinist and long-time leader of the Australian Chamber Orchestra (ACO), the boy from the beaches who outgrew his wunderkind label to settle into undisputed excellence. She is the captivating Finnish violinist, also enviably accomplished with a voice that could melt the hardest of hearts. Together they live in marital bliss on Sydney’s northern beaches, perform together in Australia’s best concert halls and regularly tour with the orchestra to play prestigious international stages. But there is one role Satu Vänskä will never invite Richard Tognetti to take on: surfing teacher. “When I came here I wanted to do something uniquely Australian, so I learnt surfing,” Vänskä recalls. “I…

At last year’s inaugural Vogue Codes, Dave Curran, chief information officer of Westpac, was one of the stars of the day, speaking on a panel about gender diversity in the technology industry and other STEM-related spaces. To follow, in conversation with his 16-year-old daughter Isobel Curran, father and daughter speak to Vogue about the breadth of technology, gender equity versus equality, and how they challenge each other. This year Dave Curran returns to open the Vogue Codes Summit on July 28. Following this the new Vogue Codes Live event – which invites girls and young women like Isobel to attend – will be held in Sydney on July 29, and in Melbourne on August 10. Vogue: Dave, you spoke at Vogue Codes last year. What did…

Eating your greens, as we all know, is an important part of your daily diet. But how much attention are you paying to your skin’s greens intake? A diet rich in spinach, apple, spirulina, aloe and green tea can boost your skincare’s antioxidant, vitamin and mineral components and transform your regimen into a veritable hothouse of nutrients. Green tea, which aids in detoxification and skin renewal and has anti-inflammatory properties, should be the hero of your routine. Blithe’s Patting Water Pack Soothing & Healing Green Tea, a liquid mask, de-stresses and calms skin while removing the day’s pollutants. If you’re looking for a punch-packing green infusion, Origins By All Greens Foaming Deep Cleansing Mask is a green juice for your face that is filled with spirulina, spinach, green tea and…

VOGUE AUGUST A CELEBRATION OF SUBLIME INDIVIDUALITY, DECADES OF DIOR DREAMS AND THE NEW NEW LOOK FOR NOW. Bella! Bella!” utters Italian photographer Paolo Roversi in his native musical timbre, his six-foot frame bearing down over the lens of his Linhof camera. A crew of 10-plus people is crammed into the top floor of his Paris studio, peering over Roversi’s shoulder for a glimpse at his subject, the Australian actress Bella Heathcote. Heathcote – an ethereal beauty with flawless creamy skin, a rosebud pout and big blue eyes – is currently reclining on the floor. Swathed in a pastel-hued tulle haute couture dress from Christian Dior (whose 70-year history will be celebrated this month at the National Gallery of Victoria; see story on page 134), she is more than…

Vogue’s July cover star: Paris Jackson The model and actress burst onto the fashion scene and onto Vogue’s July 2017 cover. “Love this cover!!” said @emporium offashion in response to our cover reveal on Instagram. “Queen,” said @paolabba. “I find Paris Jackson intriguing,” said@rakup. “Just picked up my copy this morning. Cannot wait to get home to enjoy it with a lil sneaky martini,” said @nesss harma4nenart. “What a cover,” said@by.frederick. RESORT ROTATION Vogue took you front row at the resort 2018 shows via Instagram this month covering Gucci, Chanel and more. The front-row pass included up-to-the minute posts to our grid and on Instagram Stories, which both received thousands of likes and views respectively. GET CODING This month we introduced you to some of our inspiring Vogue Codes speakers…

LOUNGE LIFE Pyjama dressing holds strong for autumn/ winter ’17/’18. Despite the languidness, they’re not made for lying prone. Add an evening element, such as wafting marabou feathers, and step out. LITTLE WONDER Decadent looks that tap bygone glamour don’t need to be full-length. A modern muse wears hers above the knee, with toughened-up leather extras for edge. IN A PUFF An evening slip offers the perfect canvas for broad strokes of whimsy. Choose a print and add glinting accessories to up the luxe factor. The right-for-now update? A sporty bomber with a witty nod to excess in its supersized collar. FLOAT ON As sweet as colour matches such as raspberry and Turkish-delight pink are, they need the arty nonchalance of a staple piece like a turtleneck to rank them…

“THE NAIL CAN BE HARMFUL, SO WE NEEDED TO SHOW THAT … BUT ALSO ITS BEAUTY” The ancient Romans may have questioned an 18-karat gold nail wrapped around the wrist as a piece of jewellery … bounties of sapphires, rubies and emeralds this is not. Rather, it is an example of visual humour that could only really have manifested in the 20th century. We have Aldo Cipullo to thank for this one. Cipullo is the idiosyncratic Cartier designer from Rome who landed in New York, making a scene in the jewellery world with his blond hair and blue eyes – oh, and at Studio 54, with his appreciation of a good time, where he was most likely surrounded by party-goers who either wore his designs or craved buying them. Cipullo…

“SWIMWEAR WAS A VERY STAGNANT AREA IN FASHION WHERE LITTLE HAD CHANGED” It’s a magical time for innovation, as most of us would agree. The theme of the 2016 Geneva World Economic Forum was the “Fourth Industrial Revolution”, with forum chairman Klaus Schwab stating that the “speed of current breakthroughs has no historical precedent”. The world we live in is one of infinite change, and it’s a time where it’s not only applauded but also deemed cool to be a disrupter, feather ruffler, re-shaper, problem-solver or tinkerer. And as with all bold movements, which often feel divorced from our daily lives, there is a trickle-down effect, one that does impact upon the way we live. You don’t have to look far to see examples of this right now: seamless swimsuits…

“WE ARE ENGAGING WITH OUR CUSTOMERS ON HIGH-STAKE PARTS OF THEIR LIVES” Paper has become an analogous, amorphous byword for another time. Do you read the news in print or on your phone? Do you use Google Calendar, or a Moleskine? Do you paper, or do you not paper? This is a binary that James and Alexa Hirschfeld quash with their company Paperless Post, where invitations and cards are sent and received with the same sense of ritualistic flourish as hard copy versions. The kicker? It’s all online, sent digitally, with RSVPs collected and sorted on one easy platform. “Paper invitations are beautiful and special. I understood why it was compelling, but also, that there was an opportunity for us to create a digital experience that captured all of that…

Answer me this: do you reach into your beauty bag each morning and mechanically apply the same product? Do you check the expiry date of a beauty product anxiously, with one eye closed? Do you know the ingredients in the skincare you religiously apply morning and night? A woman’s beauty cabinet can be a confusing site to navigate. But what we should be asking ourselves is whether these products are really working hard for you. Are they putting the spring in your step, the glow in your cheeks and the good hair days in your week? A beauty rut creeps up slowly. One friend in her late forties has been applying the same liquid eyeliner to her upper lash lines since she graduated university. “It’s become so mechanical that I…

“TODAY WE ARE EXPECTING SOMETHING DIFFERENT FROM FRAGRANCE” The anticipation is high as I hopscotch puddles in Place Vendôme, the beating heart of Paris. It’s a drizzly afternoon, but nothing can dampen my expectations. I’m about to encounter Chanel’s latest fragrance, which until this point has only been referred to in hushed tones and code names. Through an incognito side entrance (think a marbled wall that shifts sideways to reveal a passageway), I’m ushered to Salone Vendôme above the Chanel fine jewellery boutique and into a sitting room. If first impressions are everything, then the grand unveiling of Chanel’s newest scent is shaping up to be a memorable one. The bottle, the name, the juice have been shrouded in a military-level of secrecy. A further 15 minutes passes – a…

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Embrace excitement No other fashion house is as synonymous with statement lingerie as Calvin Klein, and its new Excite chemise, $200, ups the brand’s must-have ante. The interplay of black lace and 100 per cent silk charmeuse and mesh with a plunging neckline make for a stunning piece that nails the Calvin Klein sexy simplicity lingerie coda. From Calvin Klein stores and David Jones. Runway RSVP Get your friends together and join us for a VIP runway evening of champagne and canapés showcasing the latest seasonal trends for Inbetweenie and Curve fashion from Australian and international designers, October 29 in Melbourne. Limited tickets available at adeveefashion.com. FINEST HOUR Faithful to the Georg Jensen principles of beauty in form and function, the Vivianna bangle watch, $20,160, powered by a quartz movement,…

ASTROLOGER: STELLA NOVA TAURUS 20 APRIL – 20 MAY Your usual classy elegance gives way to a louder look that gets you noticed, and home is where a romantic lifestyle fantasy could become real. Financing it could be an issue, as work and money may feel restricted or erratic, but this could be just the push you need to get inventive and put some love back into your career. STYLE ICON: Jessica Alba LEO 23 JULY – 22 AUGUST The desire to do it all, have it all and be it all makes this a big month for you. Overshadowing your entourage is a potential hazard, but this could be a timely learning curve. Nothing makes you more adored than putting others first, so a makeover that includes your heart…