Innholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2023 i Vertical Life

As climbers, we have the privilege of being part of a global community of people who often get to access remote environments regularly, and because of that, climbers as a collective know a thing or two about being awestruck. A central feature that defines the experience of awe and the most applicable to us as climbers, is the concept of perceived vastness (Dacher, Keltner & Haidt, 2003), meaning the sheer magnitude of external stimuli in both physical and metaphysical terms. Put simply, when we’re faced with expansive environments, awe has the power to leave us feeling more connected to others and the world around us. For climbers, no environment has played more of an active role in the catalyst of these experiences, than the mountains. So potent is feeling awestruck,…

The visually stunning Winter Dance Wall in Montana’s Hyalite Canyon is one that would tempt any eager ice-climber. In this film, its ethereal expanse sets the stage for a spectacular ascent. The Nutcracker follows Matt Cornell as he attempts the first solo climb up the titular route, established by co-star Conrad Anker. The film highlights how Cornell takes the time to connect with the area, immersing himself in the ecosystem and learning to work alongside the mountain and its inhabitants. The goat cameos offer delightful comic relief. More than a highlight reel to the attempt, the film explores the history of the area, in terms of both climbing and the natural world. There is homage to Anker’s late friend Alex Lowe whose first ascents sparked a legendary legacy. Anker doesn’t…

When you arrive by plane in Mparntwe/Alice Springs, the first sign you read at the airport is in Central Arrernte: Werte (welcome). From the moment you set foot in this town, it’s very clear that this is a place where language, culture and connection to Country run deep. Central Australia suffered fewer blows from settler Australia than areas on the east coast. Walking through Todd Mall you’ll hear in excess of seven different Aboriginal languages spoken by people who hold unbroken ties to their ancestral lands, much of which they hold either native title or freehold title over, recognised under the Aboriginal Land Rights Act. Climbing here, you are keenly aware that you are climbing on someone else’s land, where people hold an unceded, continual connection to the rocks, sand,…

There is a distinct satisfaction in listening to the rhythmic sound of your ice axe and crampons biting into a frozen snow and ice surface. Jason and I could not see much that morning. We had begun in the dark, the colder predawn temperature reducing the risk of rockfall. As the sun rose, the thick fog was almost a whiteout, and it engulfed the Nuns Veil in cloud as we systematically worked our way up the glacier towards the summit. We were moving un-roped as it is not a difficult climb—a Grade 1+ for those who mountaineer—and one I had done six years earlier in 2007. The route follows the Nuns Veil Glacier up the southern flank of the mountain, rising in a series of gentle steps. Occasionally gaps would…

We’ve teamed up with Mountain Designs on this issue to kit out our subscribers ready for winter training and travel. The Daybreaker Duffle sports a generous 35-litre packing capacity with an internal zippered pocket to secure your valuables (or snacks), making it the perfect gym bag or carry-on companion. With two external end pockets perfect for stuffing quick-grab items, and its durable 100% cotton canvas construction, the Daybreaker Duffle is ready to get you on your way. There are plenty of great reasons to subscribe to VL. You’ll never miss an issue, FREE delivery to your door, always get the best rates by saving against the cover price, and thanks to our mates at Mountain Designs–this issue we’ll even throw in a FREE Daybreaker 35L Duffle valued at $79.99. Most…

Climbing safety is everyone’s responsibility, and it’s something our editorial team are incredibly passionate about. Our Tale of Woah column is our continued commitment to creating a culture of safety within our community. Alpine adventures bring with them new and different safety issues to rock climbing. Here, Lousie reflects on her experiences mountaineering and how she came to decide that perhaps it wasn’t her cup of tea, after all. My brief fling with alpinism started when my friend Andrea suggested one day, “Would you like to come to New Zealand and do a mountaineering course with me?” I was incredulous. “Are you serious? Mountains are cold, dangerous, and have too much bad weather.” Several of my rock climbing friends had died mountaineering in their twenties: Keith Egerton, once my housemate…

Content warning: This podcast discusses PTSD, physical and mental trauma. Ian Overton is (I think) the only American to attempt to climb Pakistan’s “Killer Mountain” Nanga Parbat in winter. When discussing it later he commented, “I can’t say they sent the best or the brightest, but they sent somebody.” One from the archives, this episode of For the Love of Climbing gives refreshing space to the reality of alpinism and winter climbing: not every attempt leads to a summit; it’s important to know your limits; and, of course, it’s always best to go with a strong support crew. Over 45 minutes, Ian Overton shares his journey as a climber, and the seemingly random and fortuitous connections and events that led to him attempting this notoriously challenging adventure. With disarming honesty,…

On a four-day traverse of the NZ Alps, mountain guide and photographer Gavin Lang took these two incredible shots—one a sunset shot from a crevasse where he and his partner made camp, and one the next morning as they continued on at sunrise. Read the full story—and many more—in his recent book, Seeking the Light, as he ice climbs, rock climbs and skis his way to photographing NZ’s 24 highest summits. The highly sought after grand traverse, or “High Mile”, on Aoraki/Mt Cook involves ascending High, Middle and Low peaks. It’s up to the climber to choose the direction, route and descent on what is guaranteed to be a memorable undertaking. The first recorded traverse across the 1.5 kilometres of ridge line was in 1913. It was hailed as a…

Pitch one Elaine and I are at the peak of our Canadian ice-climbing season. We’ve been regular climbing partners for the past three years and have done countless pitches together on gneiss, conglomerate, quartz, desert mudrock and sandstone. Recently we’ve been dialling in on ice all over the Canadian Rockies. Every weekend, it’s up the icefields parkway and onto a new multipitch, the next challenge in our progression on ice. We swing leads and know each other’s food patterns, risk preferences, knowledge and ability inside out. I couldn’t have asked for a better partner to be sharing a rope on the mega Weeping Wall. Ice climbing started for me at a small, very melty crag of ice called Blue Lake. In the backcountry behind Perisher in Australia’s Snowy Mountains, it…

For eons, climbers have played in, and surrendered to, the music of the crag and the rock. To be able to kinaesthetically synchronise the body, mind and rock, to move lithely as a dancer but with the strength and determination of an MMA fighter. But for some, they find themselves drawn to a different playground. Fortunately we are not here to debate the eternal, elusive and existential question of why one climbs (either rocks or mountains). What we are here to explore right now, is what the transition from rock to mountain looks like. This is not a comprehensive “how-to” guide. This is an introduction to some of the considerations—and attractions—of moving from rock to the mountains. On the surface, rock-climbing and mountaineering may look similar. But dig a little…