Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2022 i Vertical Life

“Dildo direct has all the hallmarks of a one star killiecrankie test-piece. The bouldery and poorly protected start is greasier than the roof of a Tullamarine chip shop on new years day. It doesn’t get any better as you enter ‘the butter factory’, a short section of stacked jams and knee wizardry that takes you to the jug of disappointment. This is where you pull the last couple of aces out of your sleeve, throw a knee bar above your head, wriggle your way to glory, clip the sun-bleached tat (don’t look at it) and get your belayer to lower you to the ground as fast as possible”.…

WELCOME TO OUR LOCAL LORE COLUMN, WHERE WE DROP A PIN ON THE CLIMBING MAP AND ASK LOCALS TO GIVE US THE BETA. From local climbing legends & lore to must-do-routes and historical deep dives - we’re letting our favourite locals loose on these pages to tell us how we should be spending our time in their backyards. From tips on embracing the steep and anecdotes on how climbing in Nowra shaped the people they’ve become - Max and Mitch give us the beta on Nowra climbing. I’m sure my experience of learning to climb in Nowra is similar to most; summer days spent sweating bullets at Descent Gully, unable to climb most of the shaded routes as a beginner. Honestly, I wasn’t even aware of what “conditions” meant. Months…

FINDING YOUR ELEMENT We interrupt our usual program of deconstructing images and how photographers got them, to bring you something a little different - a tasty treat if you will. In this column we’ve heard from many photographers about apertures, ISOs and all the events that led them to get ‘the shot’…but what about all the things that led to them picking up that camera in the first place? In this issue, we explore the story behind how Photographer Benji Joseph, a timid kid in Sydney’s West, became an entrepreneur by finding his element through climbing. The day I picked up the camera is almost synonymous with when I fell in love with the outdoors. No, it didn’t start on the rocks - but in the ocean. Growing up in…

This year’s Global Climbing Day theme struck a chord with us here at VL HQ. In our previous editor’s note, we discussed what it meant to be a climber, and we offered up a different way to reflect on our shared identity. Not long after releasing the mag, our pals at The North Face gave us the inside scoop that this would also be the theme of this year’s Global Climbing Day. The synergies between the days’ focus and our editor’s note made us wonder whether we’re actually psychics, or if someone leaked our draft to the USA North Face HQ. From the artistic flair of our hominin ancestors to the bolshie antics of 18thcentury explorers - Coz digs into how we got here to help us dig deeper into…

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IFrom the team that turned the local mothers group into a woman crush crew, comes a podcast that celebrates badass adventure and motherhood. The MGC podcast launched in July 2022, and currently has guests stacked well into next year. Conversations traverse content packed with resources delivered by industry experts, to candid real life chats about the realities of motherhood. All with the aim of promoting maternal wellbeing; physically, mentally and emotionally. Current and upcoming guests include sports dietitian Amanda Watts, trainer Joy Black, physical therapist Dr Kari Swank, Para climber Rachel Maia, and many more that MGC have hidden away in their chalk bag. The women of MGC have the ability to draw listeners into their tight knit community, like a giant audio hug which leaves you filled with inspiration.…

(SHE/HER), PERTH/BLUE MOUNTAINS BOAT-BUILDER BY TRADE, BENDY-LEGGED CRUSHER BY REPUTATION! Swena Zheng would be the classic depiction of a triple threat if the definition of ‘triple threat’ itself wasn’t so boring. Replace the standard dancing, singing and acting with Swena’s circus, art and kickboxing; and you’ve got a recipe for the coolest triple threat imaginable. We’ve been following Swena for a while here at VL HQ and we’re psyched to get to know her a little better this edition. With a larger than life personality, her reputation as an underground crusher and a drop-knee that wouldn’t be out of place in a film trailer - and it’s easy to see why we’re excited to introduce her to you. How did you discover climbing? I went to a kid’s party at…

After years of frustrations with the poor quality of adventure clothing and equipment available, Monty had enough and made something better- something he could rely on. In 1978, using a borrowed sewing machine, he made himself a sleeping bag, down jacket and tent. Friends were impressed by his creations, and commissioned pieces. A reputation for quality gear quickly spread and in 1981, Mont Adventure Equipment was born. Today, Mont is still privately owned and based in Canberra. We’re fiercely independent and totally committed to creating better gear for the wild. While Mont has long since outgrown Monty’s small unit in Canberra, he still directs the company and works closely with a passionate team on the design and testing of all Mont products. Weekly, we hear from customers that still have…

From elite, global climbing comps, to community initiatives that empower women and youth in the sport, Deryl Ng is nothing short of incredible. Deryl has recently become Sport Climbing Victoria’s new head coach and boy, are they lucky to have her! Deryl takes us on a journey through her career so far - the highs and the lows, and reminds us that the key to our own climbing journeys may just be a little bit more grit. I’ve always been an adventurous soul. I grew up loving the outdoors, high elements and all sports out of the norm. I played golf for 8 years because I loved the greenery and serenity, but by the time I had to choose a high school in Singapore, I was ready for a new…

BLACK DIAMOND CAPTAIN HELMET In the infamous words of the Wu-Tang Clan ‘ya best protect ya neck’ (or more importantly in this case, ya head); BD’s new Captain helmet does just that. Featuring a fusion of EPP and EPS it offers increased side and back protection without the bulk, all wrapped up in a bomber ABS shell for those who enjoy wading head first through choss. Weighing in at 295-325g it sits perfectly between the BD Half Dome and the BD Vision helmets, making for an excellent one-quiver helmet. Bonus: aside from just looking sleeker, the flexible EPP foam sides mean it actually fits sleeker too! RRP: $109.99 More at blackdiamondequipment.com.au EDELRID HELIOS & HELIA In ancient greek mythology Helios was the god of the sun…but at Edlerid, Helios is…

Jacques Beaudoin is a French Canadian from Quebec City who in 2005, moved to Australia for the weather, settling in the Blueys in 2010 for climbing. He has built his climbing resume with ascents throughout Canada, the United States, Asia, and our very own Mount Arapiles. Core to who his being, Jacques has a wanderlust to explore new terrain, of which the Blue Mountains have plenty. This story starts on one of Jacques’ regular sojourns into the gullies and glens of the area, where he finds a striking line that captures his imagination. That line was to consume him for twenty-three months and test his resolve. He talked with me on when he and the climb first met. “He talked with me on when he and the climb first met.”…

By all accounts, 2022 has been another challenging year for Australian adventure filmmakers, as the first full year without lockdowns and covid bans keeping them cooped up inside. Luckily for us, two of Australia’s best creatives Divya Gordon and Ben Sanford, are delivering the goods to cinema screens everywhere as part of this year’s tour lineup. We love our local heroes here at VL, so we’ve taken a deep dive into the stories behind Australian filmmakers Divya Gordon (Seven 7 Seven) and Ben Sandford (Gigantor: The Dog Face). On her journey into film, Divya reminds us about the importance of trying new things and giving back: I first got into film 4 years ago. I had quit my corporate job and traveled Asia & Europe. Next - “figure it all…

(ASTHEMOUNTAINRISES.COM) UNLESS SPECIFIED OTHERWISE Charlie Creese remembers the character that was Athol Whimp, New Zealand’s most accomplished mountaineer and the country’s first recipient of the Piolet d’Or award, who died in 2012 in an accident in the Darran Mountains. This piece was originally published in UK Climber (UKC), but Charlie felt it should also be shared with the Australian and New Zealand climbing community - after all, this was Athol’s home. VL is delighted to bring this story to our community as, like Charlie, we believe it deserves a place in print here at home. We have re-published the article as it originally appeared in UKC, and offer our gratitude to Charlie, Andrew, and Natalie from UKC for allowing us share it. Maybe you’ve heard of Athol Whimp, maybe not.…

“Climbing can be as safe or as dangerous as you make it”. We don’t know who first said this, but thanks Emily Harrington for bringing it back - we’re damn thankful! Safety is everyone’s responsibility in the climbing community, and it’s something we’re extremely passionate about at VL. We created Tale of Woah as a standing column in each edition of the mag as a way to help create a culture of safety in our sport, especially as our community grows at an unprecedented rate and Reddit forums run rampant. In this edition, Aaron Lowndes of Melbourne Climbing School reminds us why using a prusik to back up your abseil is not a ‘personal decision’. If you are not in the habit of using a prusik to back up your…

ARAMINTA MCLENNAN (MINTY) & SARAH LARCOMBE ARE BOTH TRAIL-BLAZING ATHLETES AND INCREDIBLE PEOPLE. WHEN IT COMES TO PAVING THE WAY FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF PARACLIMBING HERE IN AUSTRALIA, ELEVATING THEIR COMMUNITIES, AND SHARING WHAT THEY KNOW WITH THOSE AROUND THEM - BOTH MINTY AND SARAH ARE NO STRANGERS TO MAKING AN IMPACT. WITH BOTH OF THEM REPPING THE GREEN & GOLD AT THE 2022 IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CUP EARLIER THIS YEAR AND SARAH TAKING OUT THE TOP SPOT, TWO OF OUR FAVOURITE ATHLETES GIVE US AN INSIGHTFUL LOOK AT THEIR EXPERIENCE ON THE WORLD STAGE. ON INITIAL IMPRESSIONS, FEELINGS & THE WORLD CUP. Minty: It was terrifying but also fun and obviously a massive privilege. If you asked me three years ago what sort of competition I’d have a shot…

BETA: As noted, this will deliver an ‘espressolike’ drink with a similarly punchy taste, but no crema (due to the lack of pressure). Attachments like the ‘Prismo’ or ‘Joepresso’ can help you build more pressure, but it will still not be true espresso…For that, you’ll have to stay tuned. TASTES ACIDIC OR SOUR? » Grind finer » Use a higher ratio such as 3.5-4.0 (more water or less coffee) » Steep longer » Use hotter water TASTES BITTER/ASHY (OR DILUTE)? » Grind coarser » If it’s also dilute or tastes ‘washed out’ use less water or more ground coffee TOO STRONG? » It’s supposed to be strong! Go drink some tea » Dilute the finished drink with water (otherwise it will affect the recipe) Climbing is full of people with…

From bringing you the beta from the athletes you know, and introducing you to the unsung heroes you’ll love getting to know - Vertical Life was created by climbers, for climbers, and it has stayed that way for over a decade. Passionate about showcasing the breadth and depth of what makes Australian and New Zealand crags and climbers special - we’re proud to produce a magazine that will make you laugh, think, and climb a little differently. Subscribing is about more than just free delivery; more than your free gift; and more than never missing an issue. Subscribing stakes your claim as a member of our community, who cares about the impact of visual storytelling. Each subscription directly supports our contributors to climb hard, and in turn, it gets more…