Innholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2025/2026 (n°30) i VertdeVin Wine Magazine

Welcome to this new edition of Vertdevin Magazine, issue 30. It is a pleasure to present a publication that casts a wide light on an extensive panorama of vineyards, styles and vintages. For this issue, we travelled across many of the world's wine regions in order to offer a rich and engaging read, punctuated by discoveries, confirmations and, at times, delightful surprises. The opening section brings together several articles covering a broad range of subjects. You will journey through Georgia, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Champagne, Tuscany, Umbria, Romagna and Crete, and even Japan with its remarkable saké. A dedicated feature on the legendary Château d'Yquem explores its history, its wines and a series of food and wine pairing suggestions. To round off this gourmand segment, we introduce twelve olive oils from the…

Founded at least as early as 1865, Maison Camille Giroud stands among the historic names of Beaune. Its origins go back to the arrival of Camille Giroud in Bourgogne, where he married the daughter of a cooper-wine merchant whose business he then took over. The house, already in existence before this union, remained family-run for more than a century and was distinguished by a style that was, at the time, very pronounced: powerful, extracted wines, built for ageing and supported by the security of a substantial stock, an inheritance from an era marked by the trauma of phylloxera. One must give space to the terroir and to the raw material. The aim is to achieve the most faithful possible translation of the wine's origin. In 2001, a major turning point came…

We travel along a road through fields, olive groves and vineyards in a landscape of unspoiled nature devoid of groups of houses. Our destination is the Dei Principi di Spadafora winery in an isolated rural hamlet in Virzì near Monreale, a few kilometres from Palermo. Francesco Spadafora's smile and daughter Enrica's warm handshake turn into welcoming kisses and hugs. The setting sun warms the colours all around and the 90-hectare vineyard surrounding the building is emotionally striking. I have known Francesco for about twenty years, Enrica less as she joined the company in 2019, but I had never been to this ancient place where time seems to stand still and I find myself lost in thought, gazing at the horizon, while Pippo, the family dog, licks my hand. Meanwhile, the farmer prince…

Among Hungary's historic wine-growing areas, Csopak stands out: its single-vineyard wines under the Csopaki Kódex could easily deserve Grand Cru recognition if such a classification existed in Hungary. Despite having the oldest PDO in the world, dating back to 1737, Hungary has had to rewrite its wine history more than once. The current outlines of the PGI and PDO wines and their regulations have existed since the country joined the EU in 2004. Twenty-two wine districts (PDO) are grouped into six wine regions (PGI), where the rules – often rather loose – are all set. One of them is named after the lake, the Balaton PGI, consisting of six large PDOs. A single PDO within Balaton, however, can be as diverse as, for example, Piedmont PDO, with a wide range of…

Langlois Vintage 2020 Crémant de Loire, France (62% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 18% Cabernet Franc, brut dosage, 3 years of aging on lees) The wine has a pale lemon-yellow color. The nose is aromatic and expressive, offering a fragrant, toasty bouquet (toasted hazelnut, a hint of cashew nut and toasted brioche), even smoky at first. It then develops into notes of honey, beeswax, and hay in the background, as well as dried white flowers and dried herbs. With aeration, the toasty notes intensify and become more caramelized and brioche-like, even reminiscent of pastries (lemon cream, baked shortcrust pastry). The fruit is precise, focused, and tangy: one can detect aromas of fresh green apple, dried green apple, as well as crushed lemon, lime and orange zest, combined with a touch of…

The Sauternes region is definitely thriving! The vineyards produce exceptional wines made from grapes affected by noble rot, as well as dry white wines bursting with fruits and freshness. Hotels and guesthouses offer accommodations for every budget amidst the vineyards. And of course, the restaurants are not to be outdone. This time, we're heading to Les Granges de Sauternes, the latest chic and gourmet spot in the heart of the wine-growing village. Three owners have invested in this warm and unique establishment. Didier Galhaud knows Sauternes like the back of his hand, having worked on several wine estates in the region. He was looking for a change, and when he discovered this house in the heart of Sauternes village, he fell in love with it! The building, a former barn and stable,…

Prince Edward County, or “The County” as locals affectionately call it, has transformed from a quiet rural community into one of Canada's most compelling wine regions in less than three decades. Today, it stands as a testament to how vision, perseverance, and terroir can turn farmland into one of the most dynamic viticultural landscapes in North America that now welcome over 250 000 visitors every summer. A short history of PEC wine While vines were first planted in the county as far back as the 19th century, the modern story of Prince Edward County wine began in the late 1990s. Inspired by the region's soil and climate, a handful of visionary winemakers who dared to transform cold-climate obstacles into opportunities, planted Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc, betting on their potential…

The preview of Alto Piemonte wines returned to the shores of Lake Maggiore, set against the refined backdrop of the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées for the eighth edition of Taste Alto Piemonte, the most important event dedicated to the denominations protected by the Consorzio Nebbioli Alto Piemonte. Year after year, the event confirms its key role in promoting the territory and its winemaking heritage, strengthening ties with national and international audiences – including neighboring Switzerland – and creating valuable opportunities for encounters between producers, professionals, and enthusiasts. The undisputed protagonist is Nebbiolo, expressed through its ten denominations and flanked by Vespolina, Croatina, and Uva Rara. As always, the preview offered wineries the chance to present the latest vintages released to the market—vintages that here, unlike in other regions, do not…

In Romagna, within Italy's Emilia-Romagna region, Sangiovese is asserting its true identity. The Romagna Sangiovese DOC stretches across the provinces of Forlì-Cesena, Ravenna, Rimini, and parts of Bologna. This broad territory, framed by the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea, offers a remarkable diversity of soils and microclimates, giving the grape a wide spectrum of expressions – from supple and fruit-forward to elegant and structured. The cultivation of Sangiovese in Romagna dates back several centuries. The first known mention of its name appears in 1672, in a manuscript from the Monastery of Santarcangelo di Romagna. Legend holds that “Sangiovese” comes from Sanguis Jovis – the “blood of Jupiter.” Official recognition came much later: the Romagna Sangiovese DOC was established in 1967, celebrating a heritage long overshadowed by neighboring Tuscany. In 2011, a…

Blended champagnes hold a central place in the identity of Champagne. They are built on the combination of several grape varieties, terroirs or vintages, with the aim of achieving a coherent and carefully defined expression of each house's style. The blend relies primarily on Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, which respectively contribute structure, fruit and tension. Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, although used more marginally, are also permitted within the appellation. The terroirs of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne, the Côte des Blancs and more northerly areas offer complementary profiles shaped by variations of chalk, marl or sand, enabling producers to craft precise and balanced cuvées. Champagne Vaucelle L'Echo des Vallons Terre Natale Brut Champagne The champagne has a pale lemon-yellow color. The nose…

Stretching from Vienne to the outskirts of Avignon, the Rhône Valley is one of France's oldest winegrowing regions, shaped by Roman influence and later by the rise of major river ports. This long history paved the way for a mosaic of appellations that today include Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and the celebrated Côte Rôtie. While viticulture here is ancient, the identity of the wines is defined above all by the diversity of terroirs that profoundly shapes the character of each cuvée. In the north, Côte Rôtie stands out for its steep terraces, schist and mica-schist soils and a marked continental climate, all of which produce wines with remarkable aromatic finesse and distinctive tension. Further south, Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages draw on a…

PREMIERS GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS Château de Rayne Vigneau 2023 Sauternes, 1er Grand Cru Classé The nose is textured, complex and toasted on opening, with toasted wood and toasted hazelnut, allied to lactic hints (fresh butter, beurre noisette, lemon yoghurt, a touch of orange cream). Then come confit grapefruit with a slight bitterness, blood orange, apricot roasted with honey, a refreshing touch of crushed green apple, as well as fresh vanilla, white flowers (acacia, a hint of dried lime blossom) and aromatic herbs. The palate is savoury and gourmand, with an expressive citrus attack (bitter confit orange, confit grapefruit, candied lemon peel), followed by a marked touch of chestnut honey and its pleasant bitterness, a hint of fresh vanilla, caramelised hazelnut, lemon curd, orange cream, a toasted, buttery, brioche-like note, and…

South Africa stands today as one of the leading wine regions of the southern hemisphere, shaped by remarkable geographical diversity and a predominantly Mediterranean climate tempered by maritime influences. Most vineyards are concentrated in the Western Cape, where the interplay of mountains, valleys and cooling ocean currents creates a series of clearly defined terroirs. Soils range from decomposed granite and schist to sandstone from the Cape Fold Belt and alluvial deposits, offering both white and red varieties precise growing conditions often marked by freshness and structure. Stellenbosch occupies a central position within this mosaic. Located east of Cape Town and framed by mountain ranges such as the Simonsberg and Helderberg, the area benefits from a combination of ancient granitic soils, generous sunlight and breezes flowing in from False Bay. Variations in…

JONATHAN CHOUKROUN CHICHEPORTICHE Jonathan is a French journalist, wine & spirits critic and editor. He began his career working for other wine media (paper and digital) as well as wineries (Bordeaux, USA). Passionate, curious and epicurean, he chose in 2010 to create Vertdevin in order to highlight all the beauty and diversity of wines & spirits, always with high standards in the work. JOANIE METIVIER Sommelier, Wine writer, Whisky ambassador, her official title is a little vague and her path rather atypical. Her studies are ongoing and will probably ever be. She may be the youngest Wine writer in Quebec, but her adventures are rich and esteemed. joaniemetivier.com Instagram: @joaniemetivier VALERIA TENISON Valeria Tenison is a MW student, skilled sommelier and wine writer with a passion for sharing her knowledge and…

Nothing predestined Jean-Luc Thunevin to become one of the most singular, most “rock” and most influential winegrowers of Saint Émilion. Born into a family of farmers in Algeria, he grew up far from the vineyards, in a world where livestock mattered more than wine. “My father worked almost exclusively in livestock. He did make a little wine in 1964 on the island of Patiras but it was a brief adventure. As far as I remember the wine was not bad at all, it was good. We were not used to drinking wine at home, there was very little of it, just a few bottles from local co-ops. We had Champagne on festive days.” His encounter with wine came through a stroke of luck, almost a romantic twist of fate. One day,…

Founded in 1664 in the village of Chacé, not far from Saumur, Clos Rougeard has embodied for nearly four centuries the viticultural excellence of the Loire. Eight generations of vignerons have succeeded one another, culminating with the emblematic Foucault brothers, Charly and Nady, pioneers of organic viticulture before its time, who rejected chemical inputs and unnecessary interventions. Their approach, based on patient observation and precision, shaped the mythical reputation of the estate. Since 2017, the Bouygues family has carried it forward in the same spirit. Between family history and exceptional terroirs, an estate that has become legendary The vineyard covers around 16 hectares divided into 25 parcels on predominantly clay limestone soils, sometimes mixed with tuffeau or windblown sands depending on the exposure. The vines, often very old, sink deeply into…

Eighteen producers brought together around a simplified mapping of terroirs to better understand and convey the many faces of Roero Nebbiolo. A transversal project, grounded in geology, comparative tasting and the sharing of knowledge, aiming to give the Roero a clear, coherent and contemporary voice. Officially presented in Pollenzo on 24 November, Rotaria marks the launch of an unprecedented cultural project dedicated to the Roero. Bringing together eighteen producers and professionals with diverse backgrounds, the initiative positions itself neither as a collective brand nor as a commercial network, but as a shared vision placed at the service of a territory. Its ambition is clear: to offer new tools to understand, narrate and enhance the Roero through a collective reading of its soils, landscapes and wines. Even the name of the project…

Tucked away in the rolling hills of Romagna, between Forlì, Castrocaro and Predappio, Tenuta La Palazza is a charming estate surrounded by vineyards, from which one can glimpse the old town of Predappio, the city of Forlì, and, on clear days, the Adriatic Sea. The property has belonged to the Drei Donà family since the twentieth century, but it was under the vision of Count Claudio Drei Donà, in the 1980s, that the estate took a bold and modern viticultural direction. In 1980 Claudio, a lawyer by training, decided to leave his career to dedicate himself entirely to wine. He redesigned the estate in the manner of a Bordeaux-style château, combining absolute respect for the fruit with renewed vineyards and a parcel-based approach to vinification. He planted emblematic grape varieties such…

Domaine Roy – Iron Filbert Vineyards - Pinot Noir 2022 Dundee Hills, Oregon The nose is elegant, aromatic, spicy and frank, showing intensity and a certain straight power. It reveals notes of blackberry, violet and, more slightly, wild red berries, combined with touches of pepper, star anise, saffron, and fine hints of pine and cedar. The palate is well-built, supple and precise, racy (volcanic terroir), marked by purity and gourmandise, with fine straightness and good definition. It displays notes of pulpy, juicy blackberry, pulpy red cherry and small notes of cornflower, combined with touches of graphite and cardamom, as well as discreet hints of blue fruits, wild red berries and star anise. Good length. Tannins are precise and mellow. Gourmandise, delicacy and sapid potential on the finish. Price: €€€€€ Cascina…

Santo Roots Extra virgin olive oil Santorini, Greece The olive oil has a beautiful, deep, bright golden color. The aroma is airy, enveloping, almost floral at first (wisteria), with a delicate fruity touch (green apple, green pear), enveloped in nutty notes (fresh almond, fresh hazelnut) and ripe vegetables (zucchini, fleshy red tomato). Once aerated and slightly warmed, the oil reveals notes of roasted and marinated vegetables (roasted zucchini, marinated artichoke), underlined by a herbaceous hint of rosemary and bay leaf. The palate is intense and fragrant, silky, round without being heavy. The flavors are straightforward, gourmet, more with notes of roasted vegetables (roasted zucchini, roasted eggplant, roasted beefsteak tomato). The nutty notes are delicately revealed throughout the tasting: we find fresh almond, fresh hazelnut, as well as their toasted notes,…

Huff Estates, Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Peter 2022 VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario Huff Estates was among the pioneers of traditional method sparkling in Prince Edward County, beginning in 2004. The Cuvée Peter is a Chardonnay-driven wine that demonstrates the house's focus on finesse and purity. The palate shows rich, creamy notes reminiscent of buttered crackers, supported by a light, elegant mousse. There is a fine balance between ripe orchard fruit, subtle autolytic complexity, and the brisk limestone-driven acidity that defines PEC terroir. A polished, approachable sparkling with enough depth to reveal the estate's pioneering role in County bubbles. Score: 15/20 (89-90) Huff Estates, Cuvée Janine, Rosé Sparkling 2021 VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario Crafted entirely from estate Pinot Noir, this traditional method rosé sparkling is vinified with a low…

Carlone Davide 2021 Boca DOC Intense ruby with garnet rim. Aromas of cherry, blueberries, raspberry, and subtle sweet spices, with a slight lacquered note. The palate is elegant and well-structured, supported by lively acidity, finishing with a delicate almond touch. Score: 16.5/20 (93) Il Rosso delle Donne, Castello Conti 2021 Boca DOC Bright ruby; nose of blueberries, sweet red berries, and balsamic hints. Palate energetic and fragrant, fine tannins integrated into a chalky finish. Promising and already enjoyable. Score: 17/20 (94) Tenute Guardasole 2021 Boca DOC Luminescent ruby with garnet edges; notes of bitter orange and aromatic herbs. Palate tense, well-proportioned with subtle tannins, slightly smoky finish. Score: 16+/20 (92-93) Barbaglia Silvia 2020 Boca DOC Intense ruby with orange rim; smoky and spicy nose, earthy and mushroomy. Palate dense, with…

The 2021 Brunello harvest is destined to make headlines. This vintage delivers wines marked by agility, vibrant tannins, and piercing acidity—an unprecedented profile for the denomination. The wines show slimmer bodies yet a pronounced tannic presence. This is not the result of stylistic choice—although style certainly plays a role—but rather the consequence of a vintage shaped by a distinctive and complex climate. The 2021 season was defined by the absence of extreme heat and the lack of heat-related stress conditions. Two main anomalies set it apart from historical averages: a cooler spring, especially in March, April, and May; and a notably drier, warmer September. The result is a tannic weave that does not always find enough material richness to integrate fully. However, in many—indeed, in very many—cases, the vibrant acidity supports…

For over nine centuries, a Benedictine priory stood on the site of Château Thénac. In 1109, monks founded an abbey here, laying the foundations of a place deeply rooted in the vine. Destroyed during the 17th-century religious wars, the estate later rose again, preserving traces of its medieval soul in both its architecture and landscape. Owned by the Shvidler family since 2001, the château spans more than 200 hectares, about 40 of which are planted to vines. Perched nearly 200 meters above sea level in the Côtes de Bergerac, it benefits from a temperate oceanic climate with gentle continental touches. The soils, of remarkable diversity, combine limestone, clay, flint and sandy-gravelly areas, offering natural drainage and a mineral richness that enhances fruit expression. This geological mosaic, together with precise viticulture, gives…

Georgia is considered one of the historical birthplaces of wine, with evidence of viticulture dating back more than 8,000 years. Over the centuries, the country has developed a deeply rooted wine culture where ancestral traditions coexist with contemporary approaches. The qvevri, a large clay vessel buried in the ground for fermentation and ageing, remains one of the most emblematic symbols of this heritage. Georgian terroirs are remarkably diverse, ranging from the sunlit plains of Kakheti to the cooler, more mountainous areas near the Caucasus. This mosaic includes clay limestone, alluvial, volcanic and schist soils, each offering a specific expression of texture, energy and minerality in the wines. Such diversity of soils and altitudes allows for a wide range of styles, often marked by a combination of freshness, structure and depth. The…

Overlooking the tranquil waters of Lake Orta in Pettenasco, Laqua by the Lake represents one of the most refined and contemporary experiences within the collection created by Antonino Cannavacciuolo. It is a place where hospitality and haute cuisine coexist in perfect balance, with a sober, modern aesthetic that mirrors the serenity of the surrounding landscape. The property unfolds as a boutique resort defined by linear, luminous design. It offers suites with direct lake views, panoramic penthouses, garden rooms, and an exclusive private dock. The interiors are elegant yet essential, dominated by natural materials and soft, neutral tones. What makes this place unique is its environmental sensitivity: the project incorporates energy-saving systems, rain-water recovery, and a small kitchen garden that supplies the restaurant. Everything is conceived to offer an experience of discreet,…

The Vecia Hostaria dai Naneti was founded in 1898, as a cheese shop. After World War I, it also became an osteria, offering wines from the local area while still selling food products. The tradition of being a historic place continues to the present day when, in 2015, it was taken over by two brothers Marco e Andrea Renosto and Irene Portello. Here in Treviso, it is a historic place that always maintains a convivial atmosphere and serves as a meeting point. In addition to an extensive selection of local wines, Hostaria dai Naneti features a wide array of wines from across Italy. The establishment also offers a diverse range of food products, including cured meats and cheeses. Guests can enjoy wine on-site or purchase it, along with various food…

The Top 100 Austrian Wines offers a fascinating snapshot of a wine sector that, while representing only 1% of global production, expresses remarkable quality and a strong sense of territorial identity. Austria has about 44,210 hectares of vineyards and more than 10,000 enterprises between producers and growers, with a clear focus on sustainability: 25% of vineyards are farmed organically or biodynamically, while 27% are certified sustainable. Production is predominantly focused on white wines (70% of vineyard area), with an annual average of 2.32 million hectolitres. In 2024, however, the harvest was significantly reduced (1.87 million hl), marking the second-lowest level in the past 25 years. Among the main grape varieties, Grüner Veltliner dominates (32.3%), followed by Welschriesling (6.3%), Zweigelt (13.4%) and Blaufränkisch (5.8%). For the Top 100 selection, 353 wines were…

Wines from Colli Tortonesi sold under the Derthona designation illustrate how a firmly rooted indigenous grape variety, Timorasso, anchored in a clearly defined landscape, can express a coherent and intelligible regional identity. The core of the appellation lies around Tortona, Monleale and several neighbouring communes in the southeast of Piedmont, where Timorasso was replanted and developed after a long period of marginalisation. Historically present in the area, the grape had almost disappeared during the twentieth century before being revived from the 1980s onwards through the decisive work of several growers, including Walter Massa (the first bottled vintage is 1987). This revival helped restore Timorasso to the centre of local identity and shaped the Derthona project. The grape is characterised by its natural concentration, its ability to maintain acidity and its capacity…

Tuscany remains one of Italy's most compelling wine regions, shaped by a long viticultural heritage and an exceptional range of terroirs influenced by altitude, exposure and proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Within this landscape, two denominations stand out for their distinctive identities and the clarity with which they express their origins: Brunello di Montalcino and Bolgheri. Brunello di Montalcino is rooted in the hilltop town of Montalcino, where sangiovese finds one of its purest and most structured expressions. The combination of varied soils, elevations reaching over 500 metres and a climate marked by significant diurnal shifts yields wines of remarkable depth, tension and longevity. These attributes have helped establish Brunello as one of Italy's most prestigious and ageworthy reds. Further west, closer to the coast, Bolgheri offers a markedly different profile.…

The sparkling wines of Lugana derive their identity from the shores of Lake Garda, where the native turbiana grape fully expresses the character of a landscape shaped by ancient glacial moraines and compact, mineralrich clay soils. The lake's moderating influence, softening winter cold and tempering summer heat, yields naturally fresh and taut base wines that are ideally suited to spumante production. Once crafted in small quantities, Lugana sparkling wines have gained recognition through the steady modernisation of local estates and the dynamism of the area, now home to around one hundred producers between Verona and Brescia. Produced either by the Charmat method or the traditional method depending on the estate, these wines stand out for their delicate mousse, citrus and white-flower notes, and a subtle salinity derived from the clay soils.…

Chiroubles and Chénas are among the most expressive crus of Beaujolais, each offering a distinct interpretation of gamay shaped by clearly defined terroirs. Perched between 400 and 600 metres, Chiroubles is the highest-altitude cru in the region. Its steep slopes, well-drained granitic sand soils and cooler climate allow the gamay to ripen slowly and evenly. The resulting wines show great finesse, marked by floral aromatics, an airy texture and the natural freshness that defines the appellation. This combination of elevation and pure granite gives Chiroubles its delicate, crystalline character. Chénas, by contrast, is the rarest of the crus, its name recalling the oak forests that once covered its hillsides. Its terroir blends decomposed granite with sand, clay and iron-rich elements, creating deeper and more substantial soils than in several neighbouring…

The 2023 vintage on Bordeaux's Right Bank and in Sauternes was shaped by a succession of demanding weather conditions, making it truly a winegrower's year. Hail, early April frost and abundant yet highly uneven rainfall placed considerable pressure on the vineyards, with mildew proving especially challenging for merlot, the cornerstone of the Right Bank. Following a near-tropical spring, flowering was early and even, while a warm summer tempered by cool nights helped preserve tension and aromatic clarity. Some terroirs struggled to achieve full ripeness, and the decision to pick early or wait became crucial. Those who held their nerve, despite inaccurate forecasts of September rain, were rewarded with perfectly ripe fruit after one of the longest harvests in recent memory. The resulting Right Bank reds offer vivid freshness, bright fruit, graphite…

Stretching from the cool hills near the Austrian border to the volcanic landscapes surrounding Lake Balaton, Hungary's wine regions draw on a millennia-old heritage. Introduced by the Romans, viticulture flourished during the Middle Ages under the influence of monastic orders, then evolved through centuries of Ottoman and Habsburg rule that shaped styles, practices and trade. Long recognised for the diversity of its indigenous grape varieties and the finesse of its blends, Hungarian winegrowing experienced a profound renewal after the communist period, emerging today with a clear identity built around distinct regions such as Sopron, Szekszárd, Eger and the broader Balaton basin. These regions offer a true mosaic of terroirs. Sopron, cooler and exposed to Alpine influences, is defined by schist and gravel soils that produce tense, aromatic wines. Szekszárd, further…