Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2024 i VertdeVin Wine Magazine

I’m very pleased to present you the new issue of VERTDEVIN Magazine, the n°25. This edition of the magazine introduces an great selection of wines from several countries as France, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Hungary… To start this new issue we chose with my team (meet them on page 4) to introduce to you about different winemakers, wineries but also wine news as the launch of Bollinger La Grande Année 2015, La Route du Champagne… This magazine is the result of exhilarating trips, amazing tastings, discoveries and fabulous meetings! Well, in the first part of the magazine we invite you to not miss our article about the new « Focus on the world global consumption and production » (page 41) and the first article of our new contributor, Borbála Kalmár. She…

I am sitting at winemaker Joško Gravner’s living room table in Oslavia, Friuli Venezia Giulia. He is seated at the head of the table to my left. Opposite me are the other characters of my story: Mateja, Joško’s daughter, and Gregor, Mateja’s son. Holding a glass in my hands, I have just drunk their Ribolla Gialla, made with Oslavia’s native vine par excellence. Thoughts and images simmer within me and my mind’s eye takes me back to my visits to Oslavia, to the village of Lenzuolo Bianco. It is strange how this name, which derives from considerable war efforts in this tormented land, could be interpreted as premonitory since Joško has written on a blank sheet several times, only to start over. He often says “I was wrong, I hadn’t…

Though Hungary is mostly known for the natural sweet wines of Tokaj, there’s much more wine region to discover in the country. Like Lake Balaton for example, which is divided into six wine districts, with Badacsony, or as you may see on the labels, Badacsonyi, being one of them. The wine district covers 1200 hectares of vineyards and is situated on the upper part of Balaton, in the west. It is named after the highest (438 m) mount of the lake, but in reality, the district covers also the surrounding area, including more smaller and picturesque mounts. According to archaeological finds, there was already a flourishing vineyard culture in the Badacsony area 2000 years ago, thanks to the Roman civilization - and wine culture remained continuous since then. Unique terroir…

The AOC Corbières, the largest appellation within a vast region of Languedoc-Roussillon, is a land with a thousand-year history, spectacular nature and very varied terroirs. The President of the AOC Corbières, Olivier Verdale, says that “the wines have made their revolution” and present themselves modern, and aim for creativity and quality, while keeping the link with the ancient history of the region and the multiple facets of its terroir, transmitted in the diversity of its wines. A vast region, a rich terroir, a multitude of expressions AOC Corbières covers 10,000 ha, stretching from the Roman city of Narbonne to the impressive Cathar castle Quéribus, starting at the gateway to the Mediterranean and winding through ponds, scrubland, plateaus, hills and plains. This amphitheater, which represents the Corbières appellation, has a multitude…

Derthona is a wine area located in the Colli Tortonesi DOC in Piedmont region in northern Italy. They produce delicious white wine from a single varietal: Timorasso. We have been few days in the area to meet winemakers and taste, obviously, some of their wines. Here is a little sneek peak about the 2022 vintage and 10 of our favorites. If you don’t know Timorasso grape variety, you should try it! It has the body and alcohol of Viognier (sometimes 14,5 to 15%) with the acidity of Assyrtiko and some hydrocarbon falvors of Riesling. But do not mistake yourself: Timorasso is Timorasso. It is lively when young and highly gastronomical with age. In 2015, Derthona consorzium encompassed 35 members. Today, in 2024, they are 108 members on 400 hectares of…

In Margaux, Rive Gauche, the Chateau Giscours, whose earliest traces date back to 1552, boasts a 95-hectare vineyard estate facing east-west, in the commune of Labarde, soils consisting of Garonne gravel, deep roots and natural drainage, yield such a fantastic expression for Cabernet Sauvignon along with Cabernet Franc, merlot and Petit Verdot. The Château’s oldest plots date 1923, more than half are under organic management. In winery, low-temperature pre-fermentation and gentle extractions are chosen, followed by aging in French oak. The result is wines refined yesterday and elegant, decades of aging potential www.giscours.com Château Giscours 1935 Beautiful tiled/shiny color. The nose is elegant and still offers intensity, freshness as well as a minty side. We find notes of cedar /tobacco and small notes of undergrowth /fresh truffle as well as…

Château Saint-Esprit, Céleste 2023 AOP Côtes de Provence Pretty bright color on pale apricot. The first nose is discreet and fresh with notes of tangy fruits such as pomegranate, clementine and apple. The second nose is still just as fresh and tangy with touches of pomelo, crunchy apple and citrus fruits like lemon of course. Then we smell some creamy notes of peach and apricot. We also have a saline hint and a floral touch of orange blossom. On the palate, the wine is fresh and tangy with a beautiful aroma of flowers (orange blossom, hint of clove) and fruits such as peach, apricot and orange. It is pleasant and seductive with an average finish. Score: 15/20 (89-90/100) Château Saint-Esprit, Nébra 2023 AOP Côtes de Provence Pretty pale and bright…

PESSAC-LEOGNAN RED WINES Les Demoiselles de Larrivet Haut-Brion 2021 Pessac-Léognan (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) The nose is fruity, fresh, tense and offers a certain small stretched power/concentration. We find notes of blackcurrant, small berries and small notes of black pepper associated with touches of eucalyptus as well as almost roasted /gravels hints. The palate is mineral, balanced and offers suavity a small fat, a certain brightness of the fruit as well as juiciness. On the palate this wine expresses notes of blackcurrant, juicy black berries and small notes of violet associated with touches of black pepper, roasting as well as a fine hint of eucalyptus, salinity and sapidity. Tannins are supple and juicy. Good length. There is a juicy hint of blueberry on the finish/persistence. Score: 15.25+/20 (90-91/100) Château…

Château Le Chemin 2021 Pomerol (organic) The wine has a deep ruby color. The nose is dense, concentrated, even textured. It expresses intense notes of juicy fruits (juicy morello cherry, wild blackberry, black plum with a touch of prune cream, fresh blackcurrant, blackcurrant jam, wild strawberry, raspberry coulis), combined with minty notes (menthol, peppermint, a touch of eucalyptus) and an elegant spiciness (liquorice, a touch of vanilla, nutmeg, cardamom). Woody hints and notes of torrefaction (coffee, toasted oak, toasted almond) are subtle and enveloped. On the second nose, we also find a fragrant floral bouquet (violet, rose, peony) and a subtle minerality (clay). The palate is savoury, round, silky, full, with finesse. The fruits on the palate (blackberry, morello cherry, black plum, blackcurrant jam, wild strawberry, blueberry jam) are juicy…

La Capitelle de Baronarques 2020 Limoux Beautiful fruity, intense, precise nose that offers a small red thread that stretches. There are notes of blackberry, dense small black fruits and small notes of wild strawberry as well as cassis, liquorice and a discreet hint of badian and a very discreet hint of spices. The mouth is fruity and offers juiciness, freshness, tension, precision as well as an acidulous frame. In the mouth this wine expresses notes of juicy/pulpy cassis, dense small black fruits and small notes of wild strawberry associated with touches of grilled/torrefaction, cherry blossom as well as a hint of liquorice stick and a discreet hint of spices and cardamom. Good length. Hint of blue fruits. Score: 15.5/20 (90-91/100) La Capitelle de Baronarques 2021 Limoux The nose is fruity,…

TOSCANA Campo alla Sughera 2020 Toscana The wine has a deep ruby color. The nose offers precision, complexity and a beautiful concentration of fruit, combined with herbaceous freshness and a refined spiciness. We find the aromas of fresh morello cherry, wild blackberry, wild strawberry, crushed raspberry, black plum and wild blueberry, combined with aromas of delicate, but distinct, sweet spices, which harmoniously complete the profile of the wine: fresh vanilla, liquorice stick, grated nutmeg, crushed coriander seeds. We also find a herbaceous touch of wild mint, dried pine needles and a subtle, but elegant floral bouquet (dried rose, fresh peony, lilac), as well as a mineral touch of limestone in the background and a fine hint of torrefaction (coffee, toasted hazelnut). The palate is enveloping, voluminous, with a firm and…

Breaky Bottom Vineyard, Cuvée David Pearson 2015 East Sussex In the glass, the wine shows a pale lemon hue. Its aroma is quintessentially “Champagne,” with discreet yet alluring hints of freshly baked brioches and delicate pastry notes enveloped in a buttery veil. On the palate, its piercing acidity commands is softened by a delicate touch of sweetness that emerges in the aftertaste, reminiscent of sweet lemon curd. The wine's mineral and linear character adds depth and complexity, leaving a lasting impression of refinement and finesse. Score: 16/20 (92/100) Candover Brook Rosé NV, Hampshire This pale rose wine captivates with its delicate hue. Aromas of intense red fruits, notably cranberries and strawberries dance on the nose, promising a tantalising sensory journey. Upon tasting, it initially seems dry, yet the refreshing minerality…

JONATHAN CHOUKROUN CHICHEPORTICHE Jonathan is a French journalist, wine & spirits critic and editor. He began his career working for other wine media (paper and digital) as well as wineries (Bordeaux, USA). Passionate, curious and epicurean, he chose in 2010 to create Vertdevin in order to highlight all the beauty and diversity of wines & spirits, always with high standards in the work. JOANIE METIVIER Sommelier, Wine writer, Whisky ambassador, her official title is a little vague and her path rather atypical. Her studies are ongoing and will probably ever be. She may be the youngest Wine writer in Quebec, but her adventures are rich and esteemed. joaniemetivier.com Instagram: @joaniemetivier VALERIA TENISON Valeria Tenison is a MW student, skilled sommelier and wine writer with a passion for sharing her knowledge…

Rioja, like other classic wine regions of the world, is often overlooked by wine connoisseurs and trendy sommeliers, although there is a gradual change of generations and paradigms in the region, which is still very much associated with ageing and barrels. Valeria Tenison looked into the trends. Crisis as a point of repulsion According to OIV reports, global wine consumption is steadily declining. New generations are choosing other drinks or giving up alcohol altogether. Red wine, which accounts for 87% of Rioja production, suffers first. The “French paradox” effect seems to have passed and consumers are more likely to buy lighter white and rosé wines. Since 2013, white wine has overtaken red wine in terms of production and has only gained momentum since then. In Spain, the main market for…

Bollinger recently launched La Grande Année Brut 2015 and La Grande Année Rosé 2015 at a reception held in Le Philanthro-Lab in Paris. The theme of the event was forest and woodland, from the management of the family-owned one hundred and ten hectare forest in the Côtes des Blancs, to its use in barrels, racks and corks during the production process. We tasted both wines alongside a lunch that continued the forest theme, created by two star Michelin chef Olivier Nasti. The 2015 vintage was introduced by Charles-Armand de Belenet, managing director of Bollinger. He commented that 2015, one of the warmest and driest vintages ever in Champagne presented special challenges to the team. De Belenet mentioned that the grapes harvested were perfectly ripe. The danger was the wines would…

Vertde Vin Score 16 92/100 Maison Abéle 1757 Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne It’s one of the most historic Champagne Maison, the fifth, if we look at the year of foundation, which makes a fine impression with its iconic shaped bottles. It returns into the market with the aim to speak to the great enthusiasts and connoisseurs of the prestigious terroir such Champagne is, notify them lots new messages. Seducing them. This Blanc de Blancs gathers 7 crus, parcels in Mesnil - sur - Oger, Very, Chambery) and 20% reserve wines (from Vitryat and Sézannais). Starting with the base vintage of 2018, vinification takes place only in steel to preserve the aromas, malolactic fermentation is carried out. The nose reveals rich and captivating notes, very fresh and with restrained…

MOULIN-À-VENT Domaine de Gry-Sablonn Vieilles Vignes, Moulin-à-Vent 2022 Moulin-à-Vent The wine has a ruby color of medium intensity. The nose offers precision, good concentration and vertically. It expresses notes of juicy red and black fruits (wild strawberry, morello cherry, raspberry coulis, crushed blackcurrant, wild blackberry), associated with touches of torrefaction (heated wood, toasted hazelnut), sweet spices (liquorice, even star anise, vanilla, ground cumin, nutmeg), fresh flowers (a touch of rose and iris), as well as a gourmet touch of chocolate with mint. The palate is gourmand, round and silky, less woody, with a good bitterness of cocoa and coffee on the finish. It expresses the juicy flavors of morello cherry, crushed blackcurrant, black plum, strawberry, raspberry coulis and bigarreau cherry, combined with spicy notes of liquorice, vanilla and nutmeg, as…

FRONSAC 2021 Château Franc Capet 2021 Fronsac The nose is fresh and offers a certain racy power and fruit. There are notes of ripe wild strawberry, ripe blackberry and small notes of pepper associated with racy minerality as well as slight hints of pepper and subtle floral hints. The mouth is fresh, mineral, well-balanced and offers an acidulous frame, tension and a certain precision. On the palate this wine expresses notes of juicy/pulpy blackberry, juicy/fresh strawberry and small notes of fresh small fruits associated with cornflower, violet and liquorice. Good length. Varietal, toasted/chocolaty hints on the finish. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Château Saint Vincent 2021 Fronsac The nose is spicy and offers a small intensity. There are notes of violet, spices, pepper and small notes of cumin associated with touches of…

Château Jaques Noir 2021 Saint-Émilion The wine has a ruby color of medium intensity. The nose is reserved and requires aeration. The first nose expresses a smoky (even slightly meaty) aroma, which is then combined with notes of fruit (morello cherry, red plum, black plum, crushed raspberry, strawberry), spices (liquorice, nutmeg), as well as with a fine floral touch (iris) The attack on the palate expresses a more pronounced touch of toasted wood, associated with spicy (nutmeg, liquorice) and fruity notes (black plum, morello cherry, strawberry, red cherry, crushed raspberry, plum red). The tannins are fine, velvety and cocoa. The finish expresses notes of chocolate, smoke and coffee, a salivating acidity and a good bitterness. Gourmandise and a certain power. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Marquise de Bertinat 2021 Saint-Émilion The wine…

Mateus Nicolau de Almeida Trans-Douro-Express, Baixo Corgo 2022 Douro The wine has a ruby color of medium intensity. The nose is fruity and ripe, even slightly jammy. It expresses notes of crushed wild strawberry, juicy morello cherry, red cherry jam, raspberry coulis as well as a hint of crushed blueberry, associated with herbaceous touches (dry bay leaf, dried mint, very light notes of blackcurrant leaf), spicy (liquorice, white pepper in the background), as well as a slight salinity. The palate is juicy, round, with supple tannins, fine grain and nice acidity. It expresses the gourmet flavors of ripe fruits (juicy morello cherry, wild strawberry, raspberry coulis, red cherry jam, wild blackberry, black plum), combined with refreshing notes of wild mint, dry bay leaf, liquorice, vanilla (in the background), as well…

“Nature imitates itself,” said Pascal, and in Franciacorta there are those who have been observing and caring for it for some time, such as Barone Pizzini, a company that is among the most committed to preserving nature for a habitat that is as healthy as possible for cultivating vines. A company also recognized for an operating model aimed at obtaining quality wines. In fact, Pizzini started the process of obtaining organic certification in no time at all, presenting its first organic label in 2002. The more than 50 hectares of the property are spread out in different corners of the area at different altitudes: from 200/350 m above sea level with an average age of the plants of around 15 years. The different soil matrices become a fundamental component of…

In my experience a lofty mission statement can sit like the proverbial albatross around a company’s neck, so often a galaxy away from actual performance, Joyful then to find a wine estate that’s on target, crafting simply outstanding, world-class wines. Situated in Australia’s Victoria, Geelong is made up of three subregions: The Bellarine, the Moorabool Valley, and the Surf Coast. Unsurprisingly the microclimates are varied, with the hilly Mooraboo Valley being broadly continental, the Surf Coast enjoying long summer days, while The Bellarine is decidedly maritime. Mulline have the good fortune to own vineyards across the subregions and go further by identifying a fourth: Barrabool Hills. On the outskirts of Geelong, Mulline pick it out for its striking steep ridges and revegetation. Mulline is a collaboration between winemaker and viticulturalist,…

In Gambellara, in the Iberian Hills, a history close to 100 years old, the Cavazza winery focuses passionately mainly on the production of Garganega grapes and international grapes: Merlot, Cabernet sauvignon and Syrah. Production embraced also sparkling wines: Durello and Prosecco. From farmer to company, the Cavazza family’s journey became more concrete after the Second World War, in 1987 the first major investment with the acquisition of Tenuta Cicogna. Today the company is run by the 4th generation and boasts 130 hectares of vineyards. www.cavazzawine.com Cavazza – Bocara 2023 Gambellara DOC Classico Nice fruity nose. It reveals notes of exotic fruits, kumquat and small notes of flowers associated with touches of lychee, crushed vine peach, volcanic rock and a discreet almost fresh almond hint. The palate is fruity, well-balanced and…

Château du Moulin-à-Vent’s Beaujolais are born in 140 parcels (33 hectares) by Gamay grape plants of an average age of 50 years within the prestigious Moulin-à-Vent AOC; an 18th-century estate that has managed to maintain control of its lands despite the confiscations that marked the period of the revolution. The produced wines are characterized by richness, a moto-floral bouquet and good evolutionary potential. Elements such as granitic soils with sand presence are found in the areas of La Rochelle, Les Thorins and Les Vérillats. A winery that, put up for sale in 2009, was acquired by Édouard Parinet and his father Jean-Jacques; joined since 2013 by Brice Laffond, the intention was immediately turned to the care of the vineyard by abandoning synthetic products resulting in 2021 in the choice to…

Shikoku Island is part of the archipelago of Japan and is the smallest of the 4 main islands. Kochi Prefecture is located there, on the south side, bathed by the Pacific Ocean. Before 1871, it was called Tosa and the moon cress shaped prefecture is a very well-known spot for surfers and water lovers. The landscapes are incredible, and the gastronomy is amazing. Kochi is one of the most important producers of yuzu fruit and is also famous for its single-line fishing tune, called ipponzuri. It’s probably why the katsuo no tataki is the best skipjack tuna dish ever as big chunk are seared on rice straw fire. Thanks to this unique way of cooking, you can enjoy a juicy, crispy, and smoky tuna! Obviously, it is highly delicious with……

Vertde Vin Score 17.5+ 95-96/100 Château Haut-Bergeron 2013 Sauternes The wine has a deep lemon yellow color with golden hints. The nose is fragrant and fresh, with a hint of bitterness. It expresses notes of candied orange, candied citron, lemon zest, fresh apricot, juicy yellow peach, peach in syrup, pineapple in syrup, as well as a touch of exotic fruits (fresh mango, passion fruit), vanilla, nutmeg, toasted hazelnut and bitter almond. We also find the aromas of chestnut honey, beeswax, saffron, dried chamomile, dried lime blossom and brewed black tea. The palate is fragrant and offers a nice complexity, as well as a pleasant herbaceous side. We find in particular notes of infused green tea, black tea, dried chamomile, acacia, linden infusion with a honeyed touch and beeswax, associated with…

Blason de L’Evangile 2021 Pomerol The nose is fruity and offers a certain pulpiness/fleshiness. There are notes of pulpy raspberry, pulpy cherry and small notes of small blue fruits associated with touches of roasted fruits as well as slight hints of badian and a very discreet hint of pepper. The mouth is fruity and offers juiciness, gourmandize, an acidulous frame, minerality, a beautiful freshness as well as a stretched side. On the palate this wine expresses notes of pulpy/juicy cherry, fleshy raspberry and small notes of crushed cassis associated with touches of creamy blueberry as well as beautiful hints of floral and a hint of liquorice stick. Good length. Slight hints of chocolate and toasted almond. A slight chew on the persistance. Score: 16.5/20 (93/100) Château L’Evangile 2021 Pomerol The…

MONTAGNE SAINT-ÉMILION Domaines Edmond Rothschild, Les Lauriers 2021 Montagne Saint-Émilion The wine has a pale ruby color. The nose offers gourmandise, fresh fruit and a sweet touch of chocolate. It expresses aromas of crushed strawberry, morel Io cherry, red cherry, a tangy touch of blueberry, as well as gourmet aromas of chocolate cherry and sweet spices (liquorice, nutmeg, clove), combined with a hint of menthol, cornflower, as well as a fine minerality in the background. The palate is juicy and supple, with an enveloping but fresh attack. We find flavors of morello cherry, red chocolate cherry, strawberry, black plum and a hint of blackberry, associated with notes of liquorice, gray pepper and clove, with a more perceptible minerality (dry stone) on the palate and on the nose, as well as…

BARBARESCO Ricossa Campolibero 2020 Barbaresco The wine has a pale ruby color with slight garnet reflections. The wine is discreetly fragrant and expresses notes of tangy fresh fruit, as well as a delicate herbaceous and floral notes, which is revealed on the second nose. We find notes of bigarreau cherry, fresh red currant, raspberry, a touch of crushed blueberry, associated with aromas of fresh thyme, fresh tobacco, peppermint (in the background), wild rose and lilac, as well as a fine spiciness (iquorice, a very slight hint of vanilla, coriander). The palate is chiseled, tangy and offers precision and a lot of energy on attack. It expresses the flavors of tangy bigarreau cherry, raspberry, cranberries, red currant, a hint of blueberry, combined with herbaceous notes of peppermint, rosemary, blackcurrant leaf (in…

San Silvestro Albarè Bianco, Pas dosé 2020 Alta Langa The nose is aromatic, with a hint of brioche and toast, slightly yeasty. It also expresses notes of dried and fresh lemon zest and grapefruit, combined with notes of fresh citrus fruits (orange zest, lemon juice) and a hint of lemon curd in the background. We also find notes of white flowers (acacia, honeysuckle, dried acacia, dried linden in the background). The palate is complex, with notes of candied and dried lemon zest, fresh and dried orange, white flowers and toasted brioche. Good length and freshness with a slightly bitter note of chestnut honey and beeswax. The mousse is a bit coarse. Nice acidity. Score: 15+/20 (89-90/100) Coppo Luigi Coppo, Bianco brut Alta Langa The nose is a bit sweet, but…