Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2021 i Vanity Fair

It’s been four years since Harvey Weinstein’s crimes came to light, kick-starting the #MeToo movement, which rippled through industries and institutions from Hollywood to the U.S. women’s gymnastics team to the Supreme Court—in some cases leading to convictions and appreciable change, in others to a dispiriting reification of the status quo. In this issue, Nancy Jo Sales reports a story of alleged sexual misconduct at her alma mater, Phillips Exeter Academy. Nancy Jo has written for Vanity Fair for 21 years—such blockbuster pieces as “The Suspects Wore Louboutins,” which became the basis for her acclaimed book The Bling Ring and Sofia Coppola’s 2013 film of the same name. Her writing and documentary film work revolve around community, whether she’s exploring celebrity subcultures or the self-selecting world of dating apps. She…

1. OPERATION: DOOMSDAY “The untimely passing of MF DOOM [Daniel Dumile] last October was very sad for me. He was my favorite conceptual artist, and I have been playing this 1999 album—one of my favorites—regularly ever since.” 2. GLITCH FEMINISM “Conceived in 2013 and released in book form in 2020, this manifesto by LEGACY RUSSELL considers how bodies are viewed and where can we find freedom in spaces that ‘glitch.’ I’m most excited to see how future generations read this, and what considerations around identity have changed.” 3. ZIWE ON SHOWTIME “I love when Black women find a platform for their voices and creative genius to be seen and heard, and everyone should see and hear ZIWE. What else can I say; Ziwe for president.”…

For this year’s fall runway, Prada’s first menswear collection from creative collaborators Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was in close conversation with the womenswear they would show soon after—oversized coats, a deft layering of clashing prints, bodysuits as underlayers, and the intellectualism characteristic of the brand. But two accessories appeared identically on both runways: brightly hued leather gloves with a built-in coin purse and similarly vivid bags. Vibrant style, double the impact.…

PHOEBE ROBINSON Please Don’t Sit on My Bed in Your Outside Clothes Robinson’s third laugh-out-loud essay collection is the first from her new imprint, Tiny Reparations. “We are more than trauma,” she says, “and I plan to be one of many imprints to show that.” STANLEY TUCCI Taste: My Life Through Food The actor details his epicurean life in this memoir with recipes from Gallery Books, not least a French delicacy shared with Meryl Streep. Her reaction: “It does have a bit of the barnyard about it.” His: “It looks like a fucking horse cock.” MICHAELA COEL Misfits: A Personal Manifesto Coel’s affecting first book, out from Holt, adds a new intro and epilogue to the text of her 2018 MacTaggart Lecture, which discusses racism in the film industry and…

ANN SARNOFF STANDS inside the lobby of a theater on the Warner Bros. back lot, staring at a wall of men. Before her are 16 black-and-white photographs of previous Warner Bros. studio chiefs. Tucked down in the bottom right corner is Sarnoff: blond and beaming, the first woman to reign over the legendary studio since its founding in 1923. “Seeing this,” she says, “was literally my moment of, Oh my God.” As we walk the lot, Sarnoff shows me the secret door in her office where studio founder Jack Warner used to slip out to play tennis on the lawn, then points out Clint Eastwood’s bungalow and the iconic Friends fountain. She tells me she was a Friends superfan in the ’90s and early 2000s, when she’d come home from…

I was a child the first time I saw Regina King onscreen, and she was a child too: The first thing I noticed about her character, Brenda Jenkins in 227, was that she looked like me. She wore her hair the way I did: large bangs falling across her forehead, top pulled back in a ponytail, hanging on the bottom, probably bumped with a curling iron. Her smile almost too big for her face. Even though 227 (1985–1990) wasn’t my favorite show, I liked watching it, mostly for Brenda, who resonated with me in a way the children of The Cosby Show or Good Times didn’t. The Cosby kids were too innocent, too precocious. The Good Times kids seemed kids in name and body only; so much of their actions…

Ever since his limestone-and-titanium Guggenheim Bilbao revolutionized architecture a quarter century ago, Frank Gehry has imbued concert halls, museums, and towers from New York to Seoul with flickering luminosity and irrepressible kinetic energy. The architect’s fascination with the human capacity to feel, whether through music, art, or other pleasures, is evident in many of his buildings: sweeping overtures to optimism and fantasy that wrap the viewer in a crescendo of unexpected form. “Frank creates places that have a spirit and stir a variety of emotions in anyone who enters them,” says Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, a longtime Gehry fan and the nose of Louis Vuitton since 2012. “It’s in the way that light traverses his buildings. You witness something permanent and solid but also unexpectedly moving. Few people can build like…

Style File BELOVED JEWELRY BRANDS: Brent Neale (3). Alison Lou. Anita Ko. Irene Neuwirth. EVERYDAY UNIFORM: Hill House Ellie Nap Dress (4). I wear a Nap Dress every day. It carries me from 6 a.m. breakfast with my three children, to work Zooms, to running errands around the neighborhood, to dinner with friends. It’s my version of jeans; it goes with everything. GO-TO SHOE: Platform heels by Miu Miu (11). I like really high heels, but only with a platform. It’s so much more comfortable. On Beauty SERUM: Isla Beauty Storm Serum (5). DAILY MAKEUP: Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Chantilly. Stila Stay All Day Liquid Liner. Sephora Pencil Eyeliner in Peacock Blue. Benefit Benetint. Saie Beauty Eyelash Curler. Kosas Rosewater Lipstick (8). Urban Decay Glitter Eyeliner. BEFORE BED: Dr.…

OF ALL THE major newspapers in America, or at least the ones that still exist, the Los Angeles Times has weathered more abuse than most. During the dark early days of the print-media apocalypse, the Chandler dynasty’s pride and joy was brought to the brink by a revolving door of nightmare bosses. (A former Times journalist once described them to me as “an unbelievable string of assholes.”) Hope was restored with the arrival in 2018 of the paper’s latest owner, the billionaire doctor, bioscientist, and medical entrepreneur Patrick Soon-Shiong, who now runs the Times with his wife, Michele Chan, and daughter, Nika Soon-Shiong. But still, three years after the Soon-Shiong family’s nearly $500 million deal to acquire the Times, it’s not entirely clear whether the paper’s record looks brighter than…

“Five drops of Chanel No. 5.” That was Marilyn Monroe’s answer, in 1952, when asked what she wore to bed. “I didn’t want to say nude,” she demurred, “but it’s the truth.” The actor was a noted fan of the perfume, now celebrating its centennial; subsequent faces have included Catherine Deneuve, Nicole Kidman, and Marion Cotillard. This fall’s fashion-led scents have similar allure. Jasmine and vanilla warm up the new Mugler; Burberry Hero melds cedar and bergamot. Chloé veers sustainable with the rose-tinged Eau de Parfum Naturelle, Gucci’s latest is heady with gardenia, and Miss Dior marries powdery florals and musky sandalwood. All have stars attached—but we dare not ask whether they follow Monroe’s bedtime example.…

THE MORNING STAR A Melancholia-esque star appears, ominously, in this dark novel fit for fans and the Karl Ove Knausgaard–curious alike. (Translated by Martin Aitken; Penguin Press) GO HOME, RICKY! Debut novelist Gene Kwak’s wrestling-centric satire unspools issues of race and masculinity (toxic and otherwise). (Overlook Press) CLOUD CUCKOO LAND Anthony Doerr’s first novel since All the Light We Cannot See is packed with lush details and a gripping narrative, spanning from 15th-century Constantinople to a new home-planet-seeking spaceship, tied together by a lost Diogenes text. (Scribner) CROSSROADS Come for the Twitter fire starter that is Jonathan Franzen, stay for the funny, sad, unputdownable tapestry of a pastor and his family in the midst of myriad crises—of conscience, religion, and otherwise. (Farrar, Straus and Giroux) THE BOOK OF FORM AND…

THERE’S A SOUND bite that still plagues Spencer Pratt, the reality star best known as one half of Speidi—the bleach-blond villains of MTV’s The Hills. Pratt had been shooting a scene with his best friend, Brody Jenner, when he suggested they “hit that back door”—referring to the back entrance to the club Les Deux. “They take it and they edit it, and it looks like I’m saying I’m gonna hit Heidi”—his Hills costar, now his wife—“from the back door,” says Pratt, audibly pained. “I’m fine with people making drama out of anything heightened that you’d do in your real life…. But the worst of it isn’t what they showed me doing, but what they showed me saying. It’s the sort of editing I am not down with, and feel is…

IT WAS PRIMARY night in New York City, with one of the weirdest Democratic mayoral contests in modern history hurtling to a close, and at the (presumed) victory party for front-runner Eric Adams, one of those beautiful strange political mixes was assembling inside a Brooklyn nightclub: Orthodox Jews in long black coats next to young women in low-cut dresses next to a Bronx Muslim political activist in a hijab next to shiny-suited real estate operators, all of them milling around under a giant disco ball. To one side of the dance floor stood Evan Thies, a top Adams adviser, predicting not simply a win for his client but instant national influence. “Eric is going to be great for the DNC heading into the midterms,” Thies says. “Because him winning will…

THERE IS A kind of fashion object so long-lasting, so tirelessly wanted that its name becomes recognizable, a metonym for the brand that made it: the Air Jordan, the Love bracelet. Few brands, successful though they may be, attain that kind of saturation. Hermès has done it twice: the Birkin and, arguably the first of the household-name phenomena, the Kelly. Originally designed in the 1930s as the Petit sac haut, à courroie, simplifié, the Kelly was rechristened after the newly crowned Princess Grace was photographed, in 1956, clutching it to conceal her early pregnancy; the image appeared on the cover of Life magazine. But in the Hermès artisan workshops, the vaunted bag isn’t a waiting list status symbol, it’s an education: Usually the first item newly minted leather artisans construct,…