Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2016 i Vanity Fair

coming This Fall CHRISTOPHER HITCHENS ON DOROTHY PARKER • MICHAEL LEWIS ON TOM WOLFE JAMES WOLCOTT ON JACK KEROUAC • DAVE EGGERS ON ISHMAEL BEAH SUSAN CHEEVER ON E. E. CUMMINGS • JACQUELINE WOODSON ON JAMES BALDWIN JOSEPH BRODSKY ON W. H. AUDEN • LAURA JACOBS ON MARY MCCARTHY ELIZABETH BISHOP ON MARIANNE MOORE • ANNE TYLER ON REYNOLDS PRICE MEG WOLITZER ON JUDY BLUME • MARTIN AMIS ON SALMAN RUSHDIE JAY MCINERNEY ON PAUL BOWLES • AMY FINE COLLINS ON JACQUELINE SUSANN EVGENIA PERETZ ON DONNA TARTT • A. SCOTT BERG ON ERNEST HEMINGWAY RICHARD B. WOODWARD ON CORMAC MCCARTHY • MARIE BRENNER ON KAY THOMPSON • TODD S. PURDUM ON JAMES PATTERSON... and many more penguin books www.penguin.com…

Adecade after his death, the novelist William Styron, a native Virginian, remains something of a legend in the two haunts where he and his wife, Rose, eventually chose to settle and raise their family: Martha’s Vineyard in the summertime and Roxbury, Connecticut, the rest of the year. In Roxbury, they lived in a rambling 18th-century Colonial that is a stone’s throw from where I have spent summers with my family for years. It’s a quiet, writerly patch of the Northeast. Arthur Miller lived there with his wives Marilyn Monroe and, later, the photographer Inge Morath. (His daughter the novelist and filmmaker Rebecca Miller and her husband, Daniel Day-Lewis, also have a house there.) Barry Blitt, the illustrator, and a regular contributor to these pages, lives in Miller’s old place. New…

A poster for The Man with the Golden Arm (1955), from Saul Bass: 20 Iconic Film Posters (Laurence King). IN SHORT Nicholson Baker braves the classroom in Substitute (Blue Rider). Dr. Mary Aiken diagnoses The Cyber Effect (Spiegel & Grau). Jill Kargman vents in Sprinkle Glitter on My Grave (Ballantine). Critic Clive James binge-watches in Play All (Yale). In Now I Sit Me Down (Farrar, Straus and Giroux), Witold Rybczynski explores chair culture. Misty Copeland (Rizzoli), by Misty Copeland and Gregg Delman, soars. Elizabeth Greenwood’s Playing Dead (Simon & Schuster) exposes “death fraud.” Stuart Vevers and Joel Dinerstein flaunt their Coach (Rizzoli). Rancher, Farmer, Fisherman (Norton), by Miriam Horn, heralds conservationists. David Byars’s Our Time at Foxhollow Farm (Excelsior Editions) glories in the Hudson Valley. –A.T. A SENSE OF PLACE…

Family Affair For decades the Mul family’s flower farm in Grasse, France, has exclusively produced the May roses and jasmine flowers that go into the world’s most iconic perfume, Chanel No. 5. Now these perennial blossoms have yielded a vibrant take on the classic with No. 5 L’Eau, out this month. Composed by Chanel’s fragrance creator Olivier Polge— whose father, Jacques, held the same role—it evokes a feminine aroma with notes of vetiver and musk. ($132 for 3.4 oz.; chanel.com) —SUNHE EGR INNELL Black Magic Ten years after debuting Black Orchid, Tom Ford re-introduces the scent with Black Orchid Perfume Lalique Edition—a limited collection of 1,200 Art Deco–inspired bottles. The fragrance’s rich, dark accords complement floral notes and bear Ford’s sophisticated sensibility. ($990 for 15 ml.; neimanmarcus.com). —LOUISASTRAUSS Charlotte’s Web…

Donald J. Trump @realDonaldTrump · 1m I will be GREATEST FASHION PRESIDENT EVER! Big changes needed— high aluminum walls down both sides of catwalk to stop illegals. #trump2016 Donald J. Trump @realDonaldTrump · 3m Ladies—dress to kill this fall! Trump Womenswear Collection presents leather handbag with hand-stitched holster attachment. Get shootin’! Donald J. Trump @realDonaldTrump · 4m Time to get fashionable, guys. This fall, ties must be worn six inches above knees, official! Donald J. Trump @realDonaldTrump · 6m Crooked, inept @HillaryClinton shows zero respect for American people! Regularly spotted in public with NO TAN! Shame! Donald J. Trump @realDonaldTrump · 9m Next season’s color? Orange! Plus huge white circles around the eyes!! Total winner! #trump2016 Donald J. Trump @realDonaldTrump · 12m Food-style alert! Stop slicing, CUTTING cheese! #MakeAmericaGrateAgain! @saveurmag…

In June 1996, my first season covering Paris couture, I was sent to the Ritz to draw the Valentino fittings, a daunting brief for a newcomer. The cast had assembled: designer Valentino Garavani; his business partner, Giancarlo Giammetti; Valentino publicist Carlos Souza; and half a dozen or so pugs. There was a smell of lilies in the room, sweet and low, and an atmosphere of concentrated languor. The ladies in white lab coats were constructing a dress that would defy elves: as light as air, as sharp as a scimitar, drifting like blossoms. That first season I also drew fittings at Lacroix and covered a handful of catwalk shows. I fell instantly under the spell of Lacroix, a colorist the equal of Matisse, and I loved Saint Laurent, for whom…

To my surprise, I found myself editing a series of celebrity memoirs—not exactly what I had foreseen for myself when I got into publishing. The most visible of them was Lauren Bacall’s By Myself. I couldn’t resist her—partly because, having met her a few times, I felt I understood her and would be able to work with her. After all, she was a bright Jewish girl (Betty Perske) who was born in the Bronx, lived in Brooklyn, and went to Julia Richman High School in Manhattan; if she hadn’t been a few years older than me we might have dated! (Not that she would have looked at me twice, and I would have been too scared to look at her even once.) It was adorable, rascally Irving Lazar, the supreme…

A Tale of Love and Darkness, which opens in theaters this month, is the first film Natalie Portman has directed. “I found myself at the beginning not necessarily being comfortable,” she says. “I prefaced everything with an apology. And then you realize, you know what you want. I totally know what I want. It’s just a matter of knowing how to say it.” As an actress she has always liked to play strong, intellectual women. As a director she has made a strong and intelligent film. That film, in which she stars, is entirely in Hebrew, and is based on the memoir by the Israeli master Amos Oz. The story begins in the late 1940s, against a backdrop of the birth of the Jewish state and the rebirth of the…

‘Every day I wish I was as strong as my enslaved ancestors. When I look at what it’s going to take to build this museum, I take great comfort in coming out of that community,” says Lonnie Bunch III, author, historian, educator, and founding director of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture, opening September 24 in Washington, D.C. Bunch is no stranger to struggle. In the 10 years it has taken him and his staff to raise the $270 million needed to open the museum, he has traveled the country and the world gathering donations and objects. His fearlessness, optimism, and infectious smile have led to the creation of the largest collection of African-American artifacts ever gathered in one place. The museum, the 19th in the…

EXPERIENCE Peroni Nastro Azzurro & Francesco Carrozzini: The House of Peroni, September 8-10,2016 This September, Peroni Nastro Azzurro will unveil the House of Peroni in the U.S. An exclusive showcase of fashion, art, film, and culture, the House will be brought to life by creative director and renowned photographer and film director Francesco Carrozzini. Located on New York City's Fifth Avenue and curated by Carrozzini, the space will host a series of enriching events and private experiences showcasing and celebrating the creative process, houseofpcroniusa.com RED Heidi Nazarudin This former investment banker learned not just how to dress incredibly chicly but also make a business out of being smart, savvy, and strategic. Heidi is passionate about helping ambitious working women and fashion brands connect in a powerful way. With a presence…

INGRID SISCHY The critic Ingrid Sischy, who was a Vanity Fair Contributing Editor for almost two decades, died a little over a year ago. As Graydon Carter wrote then, “What interested her most were art and fashion, and she traversed those two hothouses like a bemused empress.” “A Place Called Charivari,” on page 188, was her sole unpublished V.F. article. It celebrates Charivari, the 1980s Manhattan clothing boutique that was the intersection of Ingrid’s two passions. MARIO TESTINO “I want to portray style that comes from the persona,” says Contributing Photographer Mario Testino, who shot Alicia Vikander for this month’s cover and for “Alicia in Wonderland,” on page 196. “Alicia can turn on the femininity—the strong, the powerful, the sexy,” he says, adding that Vikander was completely relaxed with Bob:…

Amid a newsstand clogged with cover photos of tabloid stars mired in scandal and pompous politicians inflated with their own worthiness, I rejoiced at seeing the wonderful Vanity Fair cover of “Her Inner Majesty” [Summer 2016]. Queen Elizabeth II is a reminder that one can still be a source of stability and splendid form while striding through two centuries in British tweeds. I’m breathtakingly in love with those corgis! REGINA MORIN San Diego, California After enduring yet another week of the Trump circus, I was truly overwhelmed by Annie Leibovitz’s stunning portrait gallery of the Queen [“The Elizabethan Aura”]. To see calm, grace, and history displayed so eloquently is a reminder that perhaps the vanities haven’t been totally consumed. Both Leibovitz and the Queen are among our enduring treasures. DAN…

New Lab, a collaborative workspace for emerging technology in robotics, artificial intelligence, and design, has just opened in the Brooklyn Navy Yard, once the epicenter of American shipbuilding. Now the refurbished warehouse is a harbor for innovation once again. For more, turn to page 140. Intelligent Design Nearly a century ago, Building 128 in the Brooklyn Navy Yard was a hub of military innovation—tens of thousands of workers toiling by the water, building parts for ships used in both World Wars. This month, the building reopens as New Lab, a hub for a different kind of innovation, an 84,000-square-foot space filled with 350 hardware engineers, designers, and entrepreneurs delving into robotics, artificial intelligence, and nanotechnology. “This was state-of-the-art in manufacturing when it was built, and we started thinking about what…

TECH Favorite app Instagram. Must-follow account on Instagram @laurabrown99. Last person you texted Virgil Abloh. People you text the most Zackery Michael and Morgan Collett. How do you play your music On the laptop. Cable or Apple T V Apple TV. Do you use Snapchat I tried but don’t understand. On your workout playlist Metallica, Queens of the Stone Age, Nir vana, Arctic Monkeys. CLOTHES Favorite article of clothing Sunglasses (aviators). Sentimental jewelry A vintage ring I bought in East London. Favorite fashion trend of all time 70s pimp. Favorite vintage store Exile, in Las V egas. Favorite style icon Dracula. Favorite piece from your debut Brioni Paris One collection Brioni by Justin O’Shea ultra-thin crocodile hard case with metal details ($27,850). INSPIRATIONS Favorite playwright or director Steven Spielberg. Favorite…

SEPTEMBER AllIs VANITIES... No thing Is Fair Happy▪Hour “The Jerry Seinfeld of France” dishes with Derek Blasberg over cocktails. D, DONALD MAGAZINE In this issue: Love Yourself! Anyone Who Disagrees Is a Lying, Bitter Moron! Weak! THIS MONTH @realDonaldTrump Tackle this wildlife crisis: Billions of birds fly into the U.S. each year, eat our grain, nest in our trees, fly out again. Stop this madness! ANA DE ARMAS AGE: 28. PROVENANCE: Santa Cruz del Norte, Cuba. BEHIND THE BAN: “My childhood memories are amazing, I had freedom in every way—but I see everything from a different perspective now that I live outside.” STAMP OF SUCCESS: After attending Cuba’s National Theater School, Ana was cast in three Cuban co-productions with Spain. “My grandparents were Spanish, so I had a dual passport—it was…

UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN For her annual Fourth of July weekend in Tuscany, designer Rosetta Getty hosted friends and family at the famed Palio horse race, at the Piazza del Campo, in Siena. Back at holiday headquarters, the Villa Cetinale, guests picnicked, lounged, and danced until late. Getty capped off the weekend with a presentation of her latest resort collection. The inspiration? Archival images of Getty family trips to Tuscany in decades past. Bellissima. BAY CITY ROLLERS Collectors from Pacific Heights raised a glass with artists from Los Angeles and New York at Larry Gagosian’s cocktail reception to celebrate the opening of his new gallery in SoMa, San Francisco. Afterward, guests joined Gagosian for an intimate dinner at the landmark San Francisco Ferry Building. BAY CITY ROLLERS Collectors from Pacific…

When I was growing up, in segregated South Carolina, African-American role models in national life were few and far between. Later, when my fellow flight students and I, in training at the Naval Air Station in Meridian, Mississippi, clustered around a small television watching the Apollo 11 moon landing, little did I know that one of the key figures responsible for its success was an unassuming black woman from West Virginia: Katherine Johnson. Hidden Figures is both an upcoming book and an upcoming movie about her incredible life, and, as the title suggests, Katherine worked behind the scenes but with incredible impact. When Katherine began at nasa, she and her cohorts were known as “human computers,” and if you talk to her or read quotes from throughout her long career,…

In 1967, when William Styron’s novel The Confessions of Nat Turner was published, it briefly looked as if a white southern liberal might have found an ideal story to tell a country torn by racial strife. Styron’s subject was a littleknown historical event: America’s bloodiest slave revolt. He recounted it in the imagined voice of the Virginia slave turned preacher who had led the rebellion. And the novel’s first readers, who included some of the most discriminating literary minds of the time, were overwhelmed. “I was stunned by page ten,” John Cheever wrote Styron after reading an advance copy, “and this situation mounted until the end. I kept shouting … ‘He can’t keep this up, he can’t, he can’t,’ but up and up it went. It is what literature should…

What is your idea of perfect happiness? It’s unprintable. What is your greatest fear? To be banal, I’d say dying is high on the list. Which historical figure do you most identify with? Baron Munchausen. Which living person do you most admire? President Obama. What is the trait you most deplore in yourself? Impatience. What is the trait you most deplore in others? Arrogance. What is your greatest extravagance? A long golf game with a few friends. What is your favorite journey? A short one. What do you consider the most overrated virtue? Sincerity. On what occasion do you lie? In interviews for magazines— occasionally. What do you dislike most about your appearance? I seriously have never thought about it. Which living person do you most despise? Sometimes myself. Which…

READ Marianna Hewitl Marianna Hewitt is a TV host turned lifestyle blogger sharing her personal style, beauty tips, and travel adventures. An educated consumer and makeup junkie at heart, she reveals her favorite products and techniques to a diverse international audience. Her how-to video tutorials connect deeply with viewers by showcasing, say, the latest must-have lipstick or a trick for beach waves that'll never go out of style. With a curious spirit, Marianna also covers fashion, food, and travel, inspiring fans to lead a beautiful life inside and out. lifewithme.com EVENT LOUIS XIII EXPERIENCE WHITE Communications: 25 Years of Dedication At WHITE Communications, we have been successfully devoting our expertise to our clients from the premium and luxury segment for 25 years. Thanks to this in-depth experience in media planning,…

Baby-boomers, Gen X, millennials—we love to slice and dice and play the name game. But there are some things the generations have in common. Most of us agree that you can be anything you want to be (even if you start out as a miserably unpopular teenager). A lot of us are pretty confident about the future of Alzheimer’s care, not to mention the future of race relations. We’re a bit more dubious about politicians as well as about the direction of pop music in general. Speaking of music: many of us give baby-boomers credit for rock ’n’ roll (and the anti-war movement), though the boomers also get some blame for the national debt. When it comes to what we believe is important to pass down to the next generation,…

WALE This fall, the hip-hop star follows up his collaboration with Jerry Seinfeld (The Album About Nothing) with his fifth studio album, Shine. “I’m Your Baby Tonight” —Whitney Houston “One of the best songs from one of the—if not the—greatest female singers of all time.” “Pretty Brown Eyes” —Mint Condition “I play this record at every party I D.J.” “P.Y.T.” —Michael Jackson “The greatest was at his best when he did upbeat-tempo, feel-good music.” “Virtual Insanity” —Jamiroquai “1990s babies need to revisit this to understand just how groundbreaking it really was.” “Cashmere Thoughts” —Jay Z “This is when Hov was talking that talk. His wordplay on this song is still better than most songs today.” BETH DITTO The fashion muse and punk icon releases her debut solo album this year.…

FASHION HUNT Fabled British brand Holland & Holland, which has catered to an elite sporting clientele since 1835, has re-invented its clothing line courtesy of model Stella Tennant (granddaughter of the 11th Duke of Devonshire) and former fashion editor Isabella Cawdor (wife of the 7th Earl of Cawdor). The two friends have brought their luxe, country-life aesthetic to a collection, for men and women, that ranges from Guernsey-style sweaters to reversible shearling capes—sending city dwellers running for the Highlands. (hollandandholland.co.uk) Royal Treatment Taking a cue from the 18th century, jeweler Victoire de Castellane has designed Dior à Versailles, a 60-piece assemblage. “I imagined jewels by candlelight, because this light lends them a very special glow,” she says of Dior’s largestever couture High Jewelry collection. (dior.com) Three New Yorkers (Donald Trump…

“MOST OF MY AGE GROUP CALL ME WILF.” Tall, convivial, and with angular good looks that recall both the young Peter Jennings and Sir George Martin circa Rubber Soul, Wilfred Frost has brought a dash of vintage-BBC flair to business-news TV since he joined CNBC’s early-morning program Worldwide Exchange, in 2014. Which makes a kind of sense, as he is the middle son of the late Sir David Frost, the celebrated television interviewer and U.K. national treasure. In January, Frost the younger (“Most of my age group call me Wilf,” he says) relocated from London to New York. His transatlantic expertise has positioned him well as one of America’s foremost Brexit explicators, particularly on the revamped Worldwide Exchange, which he now presents with his coanchor, Sara Eisen, from CNBC’s headquarters…