One hundred and forty years ago, Norman Collie, a fit 26-year-old chemist, visited Skye for the first time. It was a fateful trip. For there he encountered the Black Cuillin, a labyrinthine ridge of savage peaks, poorly mapped and as remote, then, as anywhere in the world today. And there he met John Mackenzie, a Gaelic-speaking local guide. Together Collie and Mackenzie would explore, often for the first time, practically every peak and gully on Skye, making first ascents and discoveries that heralded a new era for Scottish mountaineering.
In many ways the two couldn’t have been more different. Collie was educated, wealthy, worldly, well-travelled. Mackenzie, a local guide from a crofting family. Yet they seemed to share a love of the mountains that was, for both, simple in its…