Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2022 i Trail

WELCOME TO TRAIL I don’t know about you, but I love a good story. One that grabs hold of me while I’m bored at home flicking through the pages of a book or magazine, and instantly transports me into some distant landscape or far-fetched scenario. When it comes to mountains, not a lot changes. Weather may beat and twist them over thousands of years, but in terms of making a magazine about them every four weeks, there isn’t exactly a lot going on in terms of breaking news. So at Trail we take great pride in documenting how people interact with those mountains, then telling the stories of their adventures. And when it comes to stories, we’ve got a couple of crackers for you this month. First of all, our…

“Doing part of the Tour du Mont Blanc for NHS Charity. Amazing experience.” SIMON BETTERIDGE “Not as mighty as Kilimanjaro or Everest, but yesterday I did a local hike up The Wrekin on my own! My first solo hike, and it was so lovely to get out and clear the head for a couple of hours! Felt recharged and calmer after a few days of feeling really down and exhausted (even if my bum does hurt from the uphillness of it!). Love the tiles at the base of the trig point, which really made me smile!” CHRISSY HUMPHREY “Monday was a wellbeing day off at work, so I headed into the Black Mountains for some space. An epic 1400m total ascent over 13 or so miles was just awesome. I even…

PUB WALKS Walk, Pub. Walk. Pub. Walk… That, to me, is the basis of a perfect long weekend away. And yes, you can do that practically anywhere, but there’s a tiny Cumbrian village that goes under the radar, outside of the tourist-packed Lakes, with a bloomin’ great pub and the full platter of walking destinations within easy reach. Yorkshire Dales? Tick. Lake District? No probs. Howgill Fells? Right on your doorstep. Pennines? Hell yeah. We pitched up at a yurt in the grounds of The Black Swan in Ravenstonedale in the foothills of the Howgills. Just a short dally from the M6 or the A66, we found ourselves in pub-walk heaven. Our greedy plan was to sample all four walking areas in four days, and enjoy the delights of the…

Mostly containing notes about the weather, what was for tea, the route taken in etc, there are always some gems to be enjoyed in the bothy logbook, and settling down to read it before adding your own is a standard part of the bothy routine. Here are some from old and new. “I’m at Corrour again. I experience again the howling gale, the swirling snow, the biting cold, the unforgiving floor, the warming fire, the conviviality of companions, the kindness of strangers and the irresistible pull of the wilds.” from Corrour bothy in 1928 “After all the excitement of 11 of us in here last night I’m on my own tonight. I feel like an Antarctic scientist stuck on my own at a research station!” from Corrour bothy “Sunshine, the song of…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Snowdonia CHALLENGING WINTER WALK Cnicht is affectionately known as the Welsh Matterhorn, and while walking it in winter might not be comparable to climbing the Hornli Ridge, it definitely still feels exciting! If the conditions are there and the snow is low, approaching from Gelli Iago gives a good outing with some steep ground on the approach to the south-west ridge. The upper section of the ridge also offers some interesting terrain that feels much more serious and steep than it does in summer. It’s not a route to be underestimated. Did I mention that it’s awful to navigate off in poor visibility? No? It is! But if you’re confident and competent, and the weather plays ball then the route delivers. Honestly, the views from the top of…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Lake District SUMMIT & LAKESIDE Isolated from its nearest neighbours by Crummock Water, Black Beck and the Mosedale bogs, Mellbreak stands proud and alone. Wherever you view it from, it’s an impressive fell, looking considerably mightier than its 512m altitude suggests. In fact, as you wind your way towards its dark, northern crags at the start of this walk, you’d be forgiven for feeling a sense of trepidation at the sight of those seemingly impenetrable slopes. Fear not though! This route, straightforward in winter conditions, finds an easier way onto the broad summit plateau via the fell’s more hospitable western slopes. It’s steep, but isn’t tricky. We pay visits to the north and south tops - the former enjoying distant views into Scotland, the latter providing a fine…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Peak District ULTIMATE WEEKEND ▲ 3 ROUTES The hills around the Goyt Valley can offer some fine winter walking, with expansive views across the western Peak District and the Cheshire Plain. The three walks take in Shining Tor with its long ridge, Shutlingsloe and the Macclesfield Forest, and the highest village in England nestling in hidden moors. For geology buffs there is plenty on offer at Teggs Nose, and those that like churches will find Forest Chapel a delight. Fans of fantasy literature will be enchanted to reach Alan Garner’s Thursbitch and trace the steps around Shining Tor. Pubs, distilleries, and breweries abound giving plenty of choice for food and drink. ROUTE 8 Shutlingsloe ROUTE 9 Shining Tor ROUTE 10 Flash moorland circuit GET THERE Macclesfield train station…

1 SH650603 Walk east along the A5 from Idwal Cottage, past the east end of Llyn Ogwen and Tryfan’s Milestone Buttress, and take the footpath gate on the right. Follow a well-surfaced route, through two gates and past clumps of scrubby willow, to the farm buildings at Gwern Gof Ucaf. 2 SH672603 Cross a ladder stile on the right and immediately go right on a path through brass and heather. Cross another ladder stile and fork left after 200m on a path which is pitched in places. Continue to a gap in a wall, with adjacent ladder stile, and walk uphill on the path through Cwm Tryfan with the east face of the mountain rising steeply to the right. Fork left at an obvious junction and continue steeply, now on…

HOW MUCH POWER DO YOU NEED? The first thing to check is a headtorch’s brightness, measured in lumens. For general outdoors activities, 200-300 lumens will suffice, providing a good balance between battery life and weight. For more intrepid expeditions, opt for 400+ lumens. The higher the lumens rating, the greater the torch’s beam distance and width. But weight and price will increase too, so think carefully about whether you really need the extra power. The maximum lumens quoted by manufacturers can sometimes be misleading too - if there is a boost or burst mode, it will only last for a few seconds. Instead it’s better to judge a headtorch on its highest output that will last for at least an hour or two. HOW LONG WILL THE BATTERY LAST? Battery…

PEAK OF THE MONTH SNOWDONIA CNICHT Mountains find their way into your heart for many reasons. Little ol’ Cnicht at just 689m is never going to win any height competitions, and it’ll never rival the big peaks for popularity, but it just has that special something. Tucked away in the often-bypassed Moelwynion mountain range, the nearby giants of Snowdon, Moel Siabod and Moel Hebog may draw the crowds, but anyone lucky enough to find themselves on the summit of Cnicht is guaranteed to look on from afar, feeling just a little bit smug. For what Cnicht lacks in height it more than makes up for in character. Known affectionately as the Welsh Matterhorn (despite being less than a sixth of its size!), when viewed from its most common approach from…

SUNRISE STUNNER Fancy transporting yourself to the north ridge of Tryfan at sunrise for 5 glorious minutes? Watch Rob Johnson’s latest Mountain Days vlog at: tinyurl.com/robj-tryfan MOST GOOGLED BOOTS The British public has great taste in hiking shoes if the latest Google search statistics are anything to go by, with some Trail faves topping the charts. The Adidas Terrex scooped almost 4x more searches, according to SportsShoes.com. WIN! BRIDGEDALE SOCKS Bridgedale is giving 15 lucky readers the chance to win a pair of its EXPLORER Heavyweight Merino Comfort socks, worth £24.50 each. To be in with a chance of winning, simply enter your details at livefortheoutdoors.com/bridgedaleexplorercomp. Competition closes 24 November 2022. See website for full T&Cs. Bridgedale® LITTLE THINGS MATTER TOP FAMILY HIKING REGIONS Outdoor brand Millets has been scouring the…

THIS MONTH’S WINNER High Crag Lake District “A recent trip to the Lake District to bag some Wainwrights resulted in us meeting Tom Cruise! He was filming for the new Mission Impossible film and had been helicoptered up to High Crag above Buttermere before paragliding back down to the valley.” Adam Wheeler Haystacks Lake District “This is us (Chris, Val, Louise and John from Gateshead) at the top of Haystacks. We enjoyed a long day walking from Buttermere up Haystacks, then along the ridge over High Crag, High Stile and Red Pike.” Cadair Idris Snowdonia “A beautiful couple of days in the mountains of Snowdonia: Crib Goch Snowdon, Tryfan and the beautiful Cadair Idris on the last day.” Janusz Wojtowicz Scafell Pike Lake District “A fantastic sunny summit on Scafell…

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS My sister Holly is beginning to wonder if the main attraction is ever going to make an appearance. Not that either of us is complaining, immersed as we are in Scotland’s wild landscape with mountains dominating the horizon. But for once, we’re not here for them. We’re a good few hours into the first day of our hiking adventure when finally, we see it. While its legendary monster seems to be playing hard to get, there’s no doubt that what at last commands our view is Scotland’s most famous body of water. This is Loch Ness, and we’re on a fgur-day hike around its perimeter, but not quite how you’d expect. We’re on the Loch Ness 360° trail, a 129-kilometre circuit around the loch and the perfect two-footed…

HAUNTED HIGHLANDS I like to think I’m a relatively well-adjusted person, but I can’t resist a ghost story. Why is that? It was over the Christmas holidays, decorating a room in my house, that I first heard the Uncanny series of podcasts on BBC Sounds; short investigations into all things strange and unexplained. Episode 10: ‘Don’t sleep in this house’ and 11: ‘The curse of Luibeilt’ was where it all started to get interesting because the story revolved around a wonderfully remote mountain landscape… About 10km north-east of Kinlochleven, on the edge of the Mamore Forest and almost in the shadow of Ben Nevis, is a ruined two-storey house, once a deerstalker’s cottage. In the 1970s, this lonely building still had its roof, along with a resident family of hippies…

1 Check the weather. If you’re new to night walking, choose a clear, dry night (perhaps with a full moon) for your first go. Navigating the hills when it’s dark AND clagged in is unlikely to make for an enjoyable experience. 2 Plan your route. Having a knowledge of the terrain, gradient, obstacles, and landmark features in advance will make following your route (and determining if you’ve wandered off it) easier when vision is restricted. 3 Bring your own light. A headtorch is probably the most important piece of kit. Be familiar with how yours works, including various functions and controls. Be sure to carry spare batteries, and a spare torch is a good idea. 4 Stay warm. When the dark arrives, the chill usually comes with it. Extra layers,…

WINTER GEAR In winter, the UK’s mountains completely change their character. Exploring this frozen landscape can be an exhilarating adventure as well as a real challenge, even for experienced hillwalkers. Plunging temperatures, limited daylight and testing conditions mean that you’ll need to draw on all your skills and experience. To stay safe, you’ll also need to buy a few bits of extra clothing and hardware which, admittedly, can get expensive. But fear not, because luckily there’s lots of good value winter kit out there if you shop savvy, plus plenty of other ways to save cash too. And since we don’t believe that money (or lack of) should be a barrier to getting out there, here are Trail’s top tricks and tips on how to get kitted out for winter…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Snowdonia WINTER MOUNTAIN GRANDEUR Charismatic and forever embedded in the hearts and minds of many walkers and mountaineers, the invitingly shaped Y Lliwedd and Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) always beckon. This route offers a significant ascent and a varied journey, particularly if the weather angels have bestowed layers of friendly snow to explore. There are rocky and steep moments for budding mountaineers to enjoy with an axe and crampons, as well as familiar paths lower down to gain good access to high and complex ground. Let’s not forget this mountain massif holds intriguing challenges to any winter walker. Strong winds can blow complicated snow across certain slope aspects, obscuring familiar paths. And this is a feature to be well aware of in one’s planning and on the journey itself.…

TRAIL MAGAZINE West Highlands CLASSIC WINTER MUNROS Approaching the Pass of Glencoe from the south-eastern expanse of Rannoch Moor, the eye is naturally drawn to the incredible structure of Buachaille Etive Mor - ‘the Great Herdsman of Etive’. This mountain massif keeps guard over Glen Coe in all weathers, a committed shepherd looking over its flock below. ‘The Buachaille’ is always accompanied by its shapely twin, Buachaille Etive Beag (‘the Little Herdsman’); nestled by its side to the west, it stands strong in its own identity. The Munro summits of Stob Coire Raineach and Stob Dubh offer superb and accessible winter walking adventures, either visited separately or together in one outing, if conditions and time align. Making a date with the ‘Little Herdsman’ grants a glorious and classic Scottish outing,…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Snowdonia ULTIMATE WEEKEND 3 ROUTES Snowdon will always be a magnet but I tend to think the steep rocky architecture which surrounds Llyn Ogwen is the true beating heart of the National Park. Dark cliffs and shadowy crags tumble down to Thomas Telford’s lakeside road (better known as the A5 these days), where the way ahead is seemingly blocked by mountains until the tarmac dips sharply into dramatic Nant Ffrancon. Here, the rocky spine of Tryfan rises like an angry dinosaur and leads your eyes up towards the high plateau of the Glyderau, where jagged frost-shattered outcrops could frame a thousand photographs. North of the lake, the Carneddau range billows across the skyline to reach a crescendo at pyramidal Pen yr Ole Wen. In the depths of winter…

LAKE DISTRICT Rain streaked the hostel windows as Tom and I ate breakfast, gazed despondently at maps, and thumbed with no real interest through guidebooks. The weather was demoralising. Welcome to Borrowdale, England’s wettest place. Finally, Tom closed the book he’d been holding in his left hand, lay down the spoon in his right, and sighed. “Fancy a poke about the Seathwaite mines?” My mother had warned me about accepting such invitations, but alternative offers were non-existent. “Sure. Why not?” And so our history-laden, legend-spiced exploration into a substance known locally as ‘wad’ began. What in the world is wad? Also known as graphite, plumbago, or black lead, the mineral is a form of carbon. Initially used as a marker for sheep, it was discovered in Borrowdale in the mid-16th…

FRENCH ALPS These are the French Alps, but not as you know them. The names might be familiar - Courchevel, Saint Martin de Belleville and Val Thorens are best known as being part of the famous ski terrain of the Three Valleys. But for two months each year the snow disappears and these peaks are transformed into an adventure playground of mountain hiking, biking, wildlife watching and a whole load more besides. Everything in the Alps is bigger, bolder, more intense. The peaks in the neighbouring valleys of Courchevel and Belleville range from 2000-3500m+, towering two to three times higher than any mountain in the UK. The Eurostar tunnel means Paris is just 2 hours from London, and with onward rail and public transport links you can discover a new…

MASTERCLASS HILL HACKS DARK CAN BE REALLY DARK At the height of winter, walkers probably have at most 8 hours of daylight in England and Wales, less in Scotland. In remote areas, once darkness falls, it’s also very, very dark. Starting your day early makes sense and Mountain Rescue (MR) advice is to carry two LED headtorches - one to use and a spare that’s ready to go. Certainly, don’t rely on your mobile phone - battery life will disappear fast, leaving you with no means of communication in an emergency. KEEP IN TOUCH Many MR call-outs are initiated by family or friends, concerned about those in the hills in bad weather. Sometimes those worries are valid, sometimes there’s nothing wrong and no need for rescue but those at home…

If you’re reluctant to splash out straightaway, consider hiring hardware instead. Rentals make good financial sense for any item that you are only going to use infrequently. Outdoor shops, mountain guides and activity centres based in all the UK’s hillwalking hotspots can loan you the right equipment. In Snowdonia you can hire gear from Plas y Brenin in Capel Curig. If you’re already booked on a winter hillwalking or mountaineering course at the centre, gear hire is included in the price. Otherwise, crampons and ice axes cost £10 per item for a day’s hire. In the Cairngorms, try Glenmore Lodge in Aviemore. The town it self is also full of independent outdoor shops that will loan you decent kit. If you’re heading to the western Highlands, the same goes for…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Cairngorms SUMMIT VIEWS North of the Cairngorms massif is an island of three rounded hills, the most significant of which is the 810m Corbett of Meall a’ Bhuachaille. In any other place, this little hump wouldn’t be much to write home about - it has no swooping ridges, no knee-trembling precipices, and isn’t crowned with anything but a windshelter and cairn. But it isn’t in any other place. It’s on the edge of the Cairngorms, looking straight across the clear waters of Loch Morlich and the twisted granny pines of Rothiemurchus to the arctic plateau. Which, in winter, cloaked in white, rising up against a blue sky, takes on an otherworldly eminence. These no longer look like hills, they look like tundra. The Northern Corries, frequently too steep…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Peak District MOORLAND EDGES Start out by warming up with a gentle rise through the top edge of ancient woodland, and along a track to a Jane Eyre film location (White Edge Lodge was used as Moor House in the 2011 version). Beyond this, the route climbs up to surprisingly open and rough moorland, and a series of impressive ‘edges’ - aka lines of long craggy outcrops forming a short, cliff-edge-like break between higher plateau and lower ground. White Edge is the least craggy edge, with only a few rocky outcrops at its northern end, but it feels more remote. Later you pass Baslow, Curbar and Froggatt Edges which all have genuinely impressive crags. Along the way you pass some guide-stoops (ancient way markers across treacherous moorland) and…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Chilterns COUNTRY WALK Not usually Trail territory, the Chilterns don’t offer towering peaks. But for those in southern England they offer some elevation and good walking to keep those hill legs going when you can’t get to the mountains. An ancient mound known as ‘Cymbeline’s Castle’, the red brick walls of Chequers, a hilltop monument to the Boer War… there’s plenty to see on this hike that takes in Coombe Hill. Plus you’ll get a classic taste of the undulating Ridgeway path, with huge views, ancient beech woods and red kites wheeling overhead. 1 SP865077 Turn right out of Wendover Station, go right overthe bridge, and turn right onto Aylesbury Ring path. Head diagonally left from the end of the hedge. Go through the gate at the far…

Peak District 9 VALLEY TO TOR 1 SK012748 From the Errwood car park go north across the bridge and at the other side take the footpath on the left up through the trees, eventually entering a walled lane along Foxlow Edge. As you approach the summit cross over the tumbled wall corner and traverse the western edge of the hill then descend the clear path across the moor and exit on the The Street. Cross overthe road and follow the footpath north-west until you reach a gate on the right nearthe crest of the hill. 2 SJ996767 Go through the gate and take the footpath across Pym Chair, then follow the wall line north. Go through a gate to Windgather Rocks, following the edge path across Taxal Edge to the…

LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS Snowdonia, an area encompassing the mountains of north Wales, is a wild expanse of peaks, valleys, woodland, and miles of coastline and estuaries. In a short distance you can walk from the sandy beaches of Tremadog Bay, through the forested river gorge of Aberglaslyn Pass, up to the flanks of Snowdon itself - the highest mountain in the land. It is a landscape forged by the heat of volcanoes and the long, slow movement of ice. A land that has seen druids, Roman invasion, the shadow of King Arthur, and the great Welsh princes who made this mountainous country an independent land long after others had fallen. The Snowdonia Way is a long-distance walking trail that takes you the full length of the National Park, from Machynlleth in…

3-4 VS 4-SEASON 3-4 season boots are stiff enough to handle some snow and take a walking crampon, but offer enough flex to make walking relatively comfortable, meaning they can be used all year round. However, they will not be as comfortable as a regular 3-season boot for general walking in spring to autumn, nor will they be capable of coping with full winter conditions. If you intend to do a lot of walking in snow and ice, and possibly some mountaineering, a dedicated 4-season boot is the best option As well as being stiffer and tougher, they also tend to be warmer. THE SOLE AS A TOOL Rather than just being used to walk in, your boots become an important tool in winter. The toe is used for kicking…

MICROSPIKES OR CRAMPONS? Both designed for winter use to give added traction underfoot. However, crampons are primarily used in mountainous terrain, while microspikes are for icy trails or snow-covered paths. If you’re going winter hillwalking or mountaineering, you’ll need crampons, whereas microspikes can be used for easy to moderate winter walks. MICROSPIKES AND ICE GRIPPERS Microspikes or grippers offer additional traction on mostly level but snowy or icy terrain. The spikes are usually no more than ½in long. They are lighter and more portable than crampons and can be fitted to almost any footwear, from fabric hiking boots to trail shoes. CRAMPONS Crampons are designed for steeper and more demanding terrain. They are generally classed as either C1, C2 or C3, which broadly matches up with the corresponding B1, B2…