Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2019 i Trail

Instead of making a New Year’s resolution, I’m going to say thanks for the year that’s just gone. And with all the things I’ve explored on Trail, I’ve got a lot to be thankful for. So I wanted to say thanks for that. Thanks for the inspiration. For 15 years of wild camps above sun-brushed clouds, of frozen bothies, burning thighs, cold beer, warm beer, crisp duvets after days of damp sleeping bags, the happy fug of a mountain inn, the waits in a café for the rain to ease (almost always in North Wales, alas) the strange silence of the Highlands after snow, the moors, the summits, the coasts, the islands. The camaraderie. The solitude. And most of all, for you lot. The most aspirational bunch of people I’m…

Visit a festival Keswick Mountain Festival, Kendal Mountain Film Festival, plus many other smaller events are held throughout the UK. They’re great places to meet and hang out with similar mountain-lovin’ folk. If you’ve not been to one before, make 2019 the year you do. Learn some skills The learning never stops, so why not sign up to a navigation, hill skills or first aid course? Or hire a guide in order to do something you’d be nervous trying on your own? Or partake in a geologist- or botanist-led walk. It’s a great way to further your experiences and knowledge. Sign up to a challenge Naturally, our own #Everest Anywhere should top your list, but other challenges are available, and they’re great for adding extra motivation to your hillwalking (but…

A year ago we asked you to submit your accounts of the day a mountain changed your life. You rose to the occasion with gusto, and we’ve enjoyed stories of hardship, heartache, reward, adventure and every flavour in between. We’ve laughed. We’ve cried. We’ve been horrified and inspired. But now the competition’s closed, and our judges are choosing a winner, to be revealed in the March issue. The author of the best story of the year will win a day of tailored adventure on a John Muir Trust-managed mountain with a Mountain Equipment expert guide, some Mountain Equipment kit and the opportunity to write a full-length feature article for Trail. So watch this space! View all the entries at www.livefortheoutdoors.com/changedmylife…

Q Why are some ice axes curved and others straight? Olivia Tyler, Wrexham Jeremy says Ice axes have their origins in walking sticks and pick axes modified for mountain travel on glaciated terrain. When the sport of mountaineering started, existing tools were adapted and used for a number of tasks, from providing support to cutting steps in ice and névé (frozen snow). The original tool, the alpenstock, had a 150cm wooden shaft with a spike on the tip, and a heavy combined pick and adze on the top. As techniques developed this design was refined, with a shorter straight shaft of 70cm and lighter spikes, picks and adzes. It was used for balance, self-belay through plunging the shaft into snow, step cutting in ice, and for arrest falls by bracing…

I was sweating profusely. I’d just shifted what felt like several cubic tonnes of snow. My back ached, my knuckles were scraped and, despite having shed almost every layer except those required to preserve dignity, I was baking hot. But I was happy. “IT LOOKS WONDERFULLY TRIANGULAR AND MOUNTAIN-SHAPED WHEN SEEN FROM LOCH RANNOCH TO THE WEST” Perhaps we should start at the beginning. Or before that, even. In fact, in the words of the late, great Queen of Soul Aretha Franklin (an admittedly odd source of quote for a hillwalking magazine), “Let’s go back, let’s go back, let’s go way on, way back when…” It’s nearly 250 years ago – 1774, to be precise. A man called Nevil Maskelyne is on a rather odd mission: to weigh the world.…

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR PHANTOM HOODED DOWN JACKET £300 In terms of warmth for weight, when it gets really chilly, there’s nothing better than down. The Phantom is light, long, and very, very warm. The baffle construction keeps the 800 fill down in place which, because it’s treated with Nikwax fluorocarbon-free hydrophobic treatment, retains its high-loft even in damp conditions. The handwarmer pockets are usefully large and aren’t obscured by pack harnesses, and there’s an internal mesh drop-pocket and inner zipped pocket for gear that you want to keep close to you. The adjustable hood and elasticated cuffs do an excellent job of preventing heat escape. The 20D Nylon Ripstop (100% nylon) outer fabric is surprisingly thin-looking, but this does help keep the weight of the jacket down and ensure its packability.…

The North Yorkshire coastline is beautiful. Robin Hood’s Bay and Staithes are both gorgeous cliffside villages worth a visit, but the coastline is not as natural as it might look. They have been carved out and shaped by extensive aluminium works in the 16th century. Alum was extracted from quarried shales through burning huge piles of shale for nine months, to which human urine was then added. 200 tonnes of urine was required every year! You can visit remains at the National Trust Ravenscar Alum Works. https://tinyurl.com/alum-coast…

Trail has partnered with Ordnance Survey's OS Maps to bring you the ultimate interactive routes experience. Subscribers to Trail get free access to OS Maps, where you can view and print 1:50,000 and 1:25,000 OS maps at no extra cost, plan your own walks and view this month's routes online. In addition, the free OS Maps navigation app for smartphones and tablets turns this online tool into a powerful navigation aid. Subscribers can upload their own routes, download the routes from the magazine and browse more than 1000 more from previous issues. See page 46 for details of how to subscribe, or visit www.LFTO.com/routes…

15.3 km/ 9½ miles 6 hours The Pentland Hills, which rise on the outskirts of Edinburgh, dominate the landscape of the Lothians. Set within the Pentland Hills Regional Park, this rolling range of peaks offers superb walking and the routes along the southern side of the park perfectly illustrate the variety of what is on offer; there is a real sense of wildness only a few miles from Scotland’s capital city. The tops of Scald Law, Carnethy Hill, Turnhouse Hill, and East and West Kip are all visited on a route that grants a wonderful insight into why walking in the Pentlands is such a joy. These hills are by no means the biggest in Scotland (Scald Law, at 579m, is the highest point) but there are some steep ascents.…

Distance 12.6km (7¾ miles) Total ascent 891m Time 6 hours Start/finish Tan-ypistyll car park (rates payable) ( SJ074295) or limited roadside parking Nearest town Oswestry Terrain Paths, steep grass and heather, peat bog areas, sheep tracks Map OS Explorer (1:25,000) 255 Accommodation Maengwynedd Log Cabins, 01691 780388 Public transport Bus services 79/79A, Tanat Valley Coaches, 01691 780212 Guidebook Walks around the Berwyn Mountains and the Ceiriog Valley by David Berry Tourist info Bala Tourist Information Centre, 01678 521021 Best pub The Plough Country Inn, Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant, 01691 780654 GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

12 km/ 7½ miles 7 hours At 782m, Moel Hebog (the Bare Hill of the Falcon) is the highest of all the so-called Nantlle Hills. It’s also the most imposing, standing tall and proud over the chocolate-box village of Beddgelert and the lower stretches of the beautiful Glaslyn Valley. It’s one of those hills that doesn’t have an easy way to climb it. And to make matters more interesting, the peaks that bound it to the north and south are even tougher – rough and barely tracked. But the effort required shouldn’t put anybody off, for this is a fantastic walk with a real ‘out there’ feel that well and truly belies the modest altitude involved. Most of the climbing is done in one, with a horribly steep pull up…

Distance 16.6km (10¼ miles) Total ascent 695m Time 6 hours Start/finish Parking at St Peter’s Church, Martindale ( NY435191) Nearest town Penrith Terrain Steep sections on ascent and some stream crossings but mostly good paths, tracks or grass. Bonscale Fell diversion much easier to navigate in good visibility Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL5, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90, Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Lake District East, Harvey British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Lake District Accommodation Various in Pooley Bridge, www.visiteden.co.uk Campsites including Cross Dormont, 017684 86537, www.crossdormont.co.uk Howtown Hotel, 017684 86514, www.howtownhotel.co.uk Public transport Buses to Pooley Bridge then walk to start via Ullswater Way or by steamer to Howtown. www.stagecoachbus.com; www.ullswatersteamers.co.uk; www.ullswater.com Guidebook Far Eastern Fells by Alfred Wainwright Tourist info Pooley Bridge, 017684 86135, www.visiteden.co.uk Best pub Howtown Hotel/Tea Room (see…

Strenuousness Navigation Technicality Wainwrights Trail 100s Distance 20.4km (12¾ miles) Total ascent 1000m Time 7½ hours Start/finish Car park above Threlkeld ( NY318255) Terrain Tracks, moderate hill slopes (with steep ascent option onto Skiddaw) Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4 and OL5 (you’ll need both), OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90, Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Lake District North GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

17.3 km/ 10¾ miles 7 hours 1 NY322253 Alongside The Sally@Threlkeld (the former Salutation Inn) take a lane running down towards the A66, then a path on the right to the main road. Cross it at an island just to the right, and follow the farm lane opposite up towards Newsham farm. 2 NY330246 As the lane bends left to the farm, take a gate onto open fell. Head up and to the right, beside the trees screening the reopened quarry, then bending right above it. Go through a gate in a fence, and follow the fence up to the Old Coach Road track. [To avoid the steep snowslope ahead, you would turn left up Old Coach Road for 600m to a stile on the right, for gentler north-east slopes…

Distance 13km (8 miles) Total ascent 1350m Time 6½ hours Start/finish Nant Peris car park ( SH606582) Nearest town Llanberis Terrain Valley road, steep pasture, steep open corrie, mountain lake, scree-covered slopes, rocky summit, high mountain ridge, exposed col, narrow summit ridge, steep mountain slope Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115, Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdonia North, Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Snowdonia Accommodation YHA Snowdon Llanberis, 0345 771 9645, www.yha.org.ukTy Isaf Campsite, Nant Peris, 01286 870494 Tourist info 01286 672232, www.visitwales.co.uk Public transport Traveline (buses), www.traveline.infoNational Rail Enquiries (trains), www.nationalrail.co.uk Guidebooks Britain’s Highest Mountain Walks by Jeremy Ashcroft…

Q What are the ingredients of the perfect walking holiday? Well-located accommodation, good local food, a contrast of walking terrains and a café or bar at the end. Helen Nelson, Ramblers Worldwide Holidays Great company, a fantastic leader, exploring new frontiers or more familiar ones from a different perspective, immersing myself in wildly different cultures, staying with local people and making friends, eating delicious food, spotting exotic wildlife, especially flowers and birds... do I have to stop? Alex Greenwood, KE Adventure Travel For me, views and scenery are what I am looking for the most, but coupled with frequent interactions with the locals and a combination of good food and service. That’s what truly sets a great trek apart. Gordon Steer, World Expeditions Somewhere wild and rugged, surrounded by big…

For the truly independent walker who wants to rely on their own research and experience to get around. With the right guidebooks and preparation, plus plenty of experience of UK walking and a smattering of language skills, there is no reason why you shouldn’t go for it. You’re not compelled to go as fast or as slow as anyone else, and if you feel like it, you can change plans entirely. PROS: Greater freedom to plan, walk or improvise; freedom to tailor the price to your precise budget. CONS: No support network; costs can mount up (hire cars, local transport); accommodation standards can be unpredictable; good navigation skills needed. A PERFECT EXAMPLE: 7 nights in Berchtesgaden (Bavarian Alps) for £1285 (based on £883 hotel, £285 car hire and £117 flights).…

Q How important is a decent guidebook? Some people are fine with just grabbing a map and heading off into the hills. These are the people that like to invent their own routes, maybe making it up as they go along. But for most people a guidebook is an essential item. For me, it’s about providing something that can help your adventure, light the way ahead and give you confidence to continue on, late in the afternoon to that lonely mountain hut, safe in the knowledge that they are expecting you, with a hot dinner at the ready when you get there. Joe Williams, Cicerone Guides www.cicerone.co.uk A good guidebook makes your adventures and ambitions easier to achieve. With our walking guides, the route maps are…

The entries are in. Voting has closed. So who will be crowned Trail’s Mountain Photographer of the Year? Find out in next month’s issue! It’s on sale in the shops on 24 January and available at www.greatmagazines.co.uk/trail-print-single-issues Meanwhile, see the shortlist at www.livefortheoutdoors.com/mountainphoto18 And to give you a flavour of the photos we’ve received, check out some entries we loved...…

Q Please can you tell me why there are holes in my ice axe? Andy Biles, Nottingham Trail says Some ice axes feature a hole in the pick or spike, and sometimes both. This is designed for clipping karabiners or attaching a sling or leash for high-end mountaineering and technical climbing. While a wrist leash may stop you losing the axe if you drop it, it adds weight, and can be both fiddly and a safety hazard (in a fall, the leash will keep the axe tethered to you and could cause an injury), so hillwalkers are generally advised to remove them.…

Caves on the southern side of the mountain were believed to be entrances to the underworld, and inhabited by fairies and other supernatural creatures. Schiehallion was believed to be the gathering place of the ancient tribes of the area, and their annual meeting was presided over by Queen Mab (above), described by Shakespeare in Romeo and Juliet as “the fairies’ midwife”. It is also said to be a favourite haunt of the Cailleach Bheur (Blue Witch), who appeared around Halloween to usher in the winter and would freeze unwary travellers to death. To the east of the mountain, there is a well where young people would give offerings to the fairies in order to gain the healing powers of its water. With fairies featuring so heavily in its mythology, it’s…

• Men’s S-XL • Women’s XS-L • Weight 175g (pair, M) IT'S GOOD This well-established glove offers great comfort and dexterity. It’s also available in both men’s and women’s sizes, with the women’s range coming in black/grey – which is great if you don’t like the typical pinks/purples that many women’s products display. On offer are a Drilite waterproof lining, a leather palm and a fibre pile lining on the back of the hand, with a microfleece lining on the palm. This all adds up to a warm glove with durable protection. The pre-curved fit means they feel natural when the hands are relaxed and the materials don’t bunch up when holding things such as ice axes or trekking poles. Also the lining doesn’t get caught when you remove them…

...SOFTER FEEL AT A GOOD PRICE? Sprayway Rador /Selen £150 • Men’s S-XXL (Rador) • Women’s 8-18 (Selen) • Weight 520g (size L) Loose blown InsoFill insulation makes this jacket very soft and comfy compared to others at this price. You get a hem drawcord, but the two main pockets don’t zip and the hood has no adjustment and does not move with the head. 80% ...MORE BREATHABILITY? Berghaus Teallach X £160 • Men’s XS-XXL • Women’s 8-18 • Weight 375g (size L) The Hydroloft insulation and face fabric offer 25% more airflow than most other jackets so you get less condensation. But it’s not the warmest, the pockets are low, and there is no hem drawcord, no cuff adjustment and no hood adjustment. 80% ...ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFIT? Vaude Sesvenna Jacket…

Swap your walking boots for a pair of ski boots on Europe’s longest dry ski slope. Although it’s no substitute for the real thing, if you master your parallel turns here, you’ll be unstoppable on the real thing! And you’ll have another way to explore the mountains. The Pentlands is great for family walking too, so if you’ve brought the kids, or want to rediscover your inner child, try tubing on the weekends! https://tinyurl.com/midsnow…

7.8 km/ 4¾ miles 3¾ hours This short but rewarding circular walk into the picturesque moorland lying above the Esk Valley takes walkers away from the crowds into a world of craggy outcrops and grassy knolls. The route starts at the foot of Hardknott Pass – said to be the steepest road in England – and begins by crossing Jubilee Bridge, the little packhorse bridge spanning Hardknott Gill that commemorates the Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977. Initially, the path traverses the fellside, climbing steadily before the impressive pyramidal peak of Harter Fell comes into view, a fell Wainwright described as simply ‘beautiful’. After crossing the barren and wet-at-times Birker Fell the real climb begins, tackling a series of grassy knolls before crossing a short plateau and following a series of…

Distance 15.3km (9½ miles) Total ascent 812m Time 6 hours Start/finish Flotterstone Ranger Centre ( NT232630) Nearest town Penicuik Terrain Excellent paths run across all the summits, although in poor visibility good navigation would be required. There are some steep ascents, particularly onto Scald Law. The outward journey utilises the minor road that travels alongside Loganlea and Glencorse Reservoirs Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) 344, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 66, Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Pentland Hills Accommodation Navaar House Hotel, Penicuik, 01968 672683, www.navaar house.co.uk The Craigie Hotel, Penicuik, 01968 672213, www.thecraigie.co.ukPeggyslea Farm B&B, Penicuik, 07740 288662, www.peggysleafarm.co.uk Public transport Bus service 101/101A from Edinburgh to Flotterstone road end Guidebook The Pentland Hills, Midlothian & East Lothian by Keith Fergus Tourist info Flotterstone Ranger Centre, 0131 529 2401 Best pub Flotterstone Inn,…

27.6 km/ 17 miles 14 hours The Mamores are a ridge-walker’s dream. These graceful summits and sharp crests – sometimes scrambly, always airy – could have been purpose-built for epic multi-peak traverses. The group boasts an impressive ten Munros plus several tops. In winter it makes sense to ignore the four outlying Munros, homing in instead on the peaks of the main ridge from Binnein Mor to Mullach nan Coirean. Even this truncated traverse is a big undertaking, with a testing total ascent and distance, and bags of rough rocky ground. With snow to slow your progress, and limited daylight to work with, you may prefer to make this a two-day mission with a high camp along the way. Pick a calm evening, and enjoy a stunning snowy sunset! In…

Distance 12km (7½ miles) Total ascent 990m Time 7 hours Start/finish Beddgelert Forest, SH573502 Nearest town Beddgelert Terrain Rough and often faint mountain paths over high summits. Some very steep sections and some areas that would be difficult to navigate in poor visibility Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115, Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdonia Snowdon Accommodation B&B in Ty ^ Mawr, 01766 890837, www.snowdonaccommodation.co.uk Bunkhouse, B&B and camping via the Cwellyn Arms, 01766 890321, www.snowdoninn.co.uk Public transport The S4 bus passes the forest entrance, www.traveline-cymru.info Guidebook Day Walks in Snowdonia by Tom Hutton Tourist info Beddgelert TIC, 01766 890615 GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

Strenuousness Navigation Technicality Wainwrights Distance 17.3km (10¾ miles) Total ascent 850m Time 7 hours Start/finish The Sally @ Threlkeld, Threlkeld village centre ( NY322253) Terrain Grassy hill slopes, sometimes pathless, steep north-facing snowslope onto Clough Head Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL5, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90, Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Lake District North GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

Strenuousness Navigation Technicality Distance 28.7km (17¾ miles) Total ascent 1090m Time 9 hours + rest stops Start Lyke Wake Walk Stone, Scarth Wood Moor ( SE470994) Finish Lion Inn, Blakey Ridge ( SE679997) Terrain Moorland footpath and trail with steep ascents and descents Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL26 & OL27, Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) North York Moors GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

Strenuousness Navigation Technicality Distance 16.5km (10¼ miles) Total ascent 290m Time 6 hours + rest stops Start Simon Howe bronze age cairn ( SE830981) Finish Ordnance Survey triangulation pillar at NZ969011 Terrain Moorland footpath and trail with steep ascents and descents Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL26 & OL27, Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) North York Moors GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

Considering Alfred Wainwright’s reputation for completeness he let his game slip when he wrote The Southern Fells . In particular he inexplicably left out Steel Edge on Wetherlam! This might be down to his well-documented avoidance of technical terrain; but mysteriously compared to other routes he did tackle, like Sharp Edge or Striding Edge, Steel Edge is relatively easy. Maybe he just wanted to keep a few things secret so he could have his own special routes to summits devoid of his fans? Anyway, his secret is out now. And if you want to climb a superb ridgeline that leads from a crag-ringed corrie to a top blessed with the best views in the Coniston Fells... then head to Steel Edge! 1 Tilberthwaite Gill provides a particularly attractive approach to…

Between throwing your kit in the boot on a Friday night and heading for the Eurotunnel, and planning for an Everest Base Camp trip in five years’ time, there are hundreds of options for plotting a walking escape. Guided or self-guided; solo or with friends/family/partner; toe-in-the-water or all-out wilderness: the process may seem daunting at first, but with a clear head, careful budgeting and a healthy dose of realism when it comes to your ambitions and expectations, the road becomes a lot simpler. Let’s start with the four Ds… DESTINATION & DURATION These two are linked because one often determines the other. Europe boasts pretty much every landscape you could wish for apart from desert, and lends itself to trips of any length from a weekend to a fortnight. Most…

I’ve learned that I love trying local cuisine, that you always find something in common with people no matter where they are from, and that there are some stunning places in the world. I also have learnt that just because I don’t know anybody at the start of the trip, just relax, because people are always friendly. Tracey Parnell I’m not keen on being organised by someone else; I prefer to do my own thing. I love doing the research and then seeing it all unfold. Lynne Cook We’re on our first Ramblers holiday in Crete. We’re with 16 other walkers and the eldest in the group is 80. It has been fascinating listening to everyone else’s walking stories – they have provided real inspiration for future trips abroad and…

Q How important is a good guide? “It’s the make or break of a holiday and that’s why we take such care choosing our guides and training them. They are all local, so as well as being expert leaders, they also want to share everything about their homeland.” Alex Greenwood, KE Adventure Travel “They have to be able to deal competently with the different needs and abilities of the group and do it all with a smile.” Chloe Oliver, Exodus Travels “An experienced guide should be able to provide the best seasonal things to do in locations, best spots to eat, unique history that isn’t cut-and-pasted out of a Wikipedia article, and best of all, a great guide is prepared for change. Travel is always subject to change, weather and…

As served at… Coleman’s Deli, Hathersage, Peak District Walk into this café on Hathersage’s high street, and it’s a struggle to know what to pick as everything looks so yummy. I picked the best French toast I’ve ever had, for breakfast, then packed their sweet potato, goat’s cheese and caramelised onion Scotch egg in my rucksack for a lunchtime snack. There are loads of flavours to choose from, veggie and meaty. Protected by a cardboard roll, mine survived in one piece to our lunch stop on the rocky tors of Derwent Edge, where I had the classiest and tastiest hill snack yet. The egg yolk was still very slightly runny, and the filling full of flavour. Hathersage is worth another visit just for this great little deli!…

SIGN UP FOR… KESWICK MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL England’s coolest mountain festival is back in the Lake District on 17-19 May 2019. Entries are now open for the sporting events, which include an 18-mile 3 Peaks Hiking Challenge over the crowning jewels of Keswick – Cat Bells, Walla Crag and Latrigg – then back to the finishing line at the Festival Village. Book your place now, which includes a free T-shirt and concert ticket for the Friday or Saturday night. www.tinyurl.com/KMF2019 GO SEE… BANFF FILM FESTIVAL The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is celebrating its 10th year of touring the UK and Ireland, bringing over 100 adrenaline-packed shows to almost 60 venues from 19 January to 24 May 2019. www.banff-uk.com SCARE YOURSELF… WATCHING FREE SOLO Alex Honnold’s highly acclaimed new film…

You don’t often find surfers in the mountains. They prefer sea-level, for obvious reasons. Yet one beautiful September morning back in 2013, the kind where the autumnal air is as fine as a bee’s wing, I found myself halfway up the largest mountain in the UK. A foolhardy 26-year-old surfer from Cornwall butchering the most famous route up the north face of Ben Nevis. I had spent the previous week camped out in the old farmyard that overlooks the world-class wave of Thurso East, situated in the far north of Scotland. Once high pressure descended and the swell diminished, I made the decision to break up my journey home with some conquest in the Highlands. Looking back, I was well-equipped for disaster, possessing that dangerous cocktail of competent climbing skill…

HOW MANY?! For most folk, one Everest is enough. Climbing the height of two, that’s pretty impressive. But Trail readers Andy and Anna have climbed 28 Everests between them in 2018! Check out two of our most prolific #EverestAnywhere challengers ever… ANDY COLEY: 12 EVERESTS “This all started in October 2017, when I walked up Ben Nevis every day for a month. And I’ve been out in the hills as much as possible ever since, all over the UK. Meeting so many people along the way and making lots of new friends, it really has been fantastic. “I have so many proud moments, including raising £3000 for Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team. As a severe depression survivor, the hills have helped me rediscover myself.” ANNA HUMPHRIES: 16 EVERESTS “I’ve…

PRE-COURSE  The problem: Seeing the ground fall away in front of me in places like Swirral Edge, I get a weird fizzy, swirling feeling that starts coming up my legs and all through me, almost like a panic. Then my head goes funny and I get the urge just to jump off. I’ve even had the same feeling going over stepping stones in the river that were only about 18 inches proud of the water! Then I freeze and can’t even think where to put my feet. GOAL  To get over this irrationality so I’m able to do more scrambling. POST-COURSE I feel almost fearless. Any fizzyness is now confined to just above my ankles – as if there is a block. I had five days in the Langdales after…

Q What is the best option for waterproofing my rucksack – using a rucksack cover, placing a waterproof liner inside the pack, having a waterproof rucksack, or a combination of these? Simon Patel, via Facebook GT says This is a tough one, as it will depend on what sort of walking you do. Firstly, very few rucksacks are entirely waterproof, and these can be pricy, often lack features and have roll-lock lids, which can be awkward to use. Also, if the material is punctured then you’ll need a liner or cover anyway. That said, waterproof rucksacks are ideal for ghyll scrambling. Waterproof rucksack liners are the most common means of keeping gear dry in a rucksack. They are lightweight and, if they split, cheap to replace. The drawback is that…

Osprey has become the go-to brand for those with cash on the hip and performance in mind. But during these times when we all want to tighten our belts a little, can a brand with such a pedigree in design work its magic at lower price points? Osprey’s new Rook 50 and Rook 65 for men and the Renn 50 and Renn 65 for women have been released to take up that challenge. The packs are designed to be the best in their price range and at £120-£130 they are some £60-£70 less than Osprey’s well proven Atmos AG 65 (£190) and also the lowest priced 65-litre packs in the brand’s range. I’ve been testing the men’s Rook 65 over the past couple of months before it was released in…

Trekmates Chamonix Glove GTX £42 TESTER Graham Thompson • Unisex XS/S, S/M, M/L, L/XL • Weight 158g (pair, L/XL) These attractively-priced gloves feature a Gore-Tex Active waterproof lining to keep your hands dry from rain and sweat, as well as polyester hollowfibre insulation for warmth. Instantly comfortable when you first slip them on thanks to a brushed microfleece lining, the pre-curved fingers improve grip on ice axes or poles and the palm has a PU layer for durability. Impressively these gloves work with touchscreens device, such as my smartphone, and I also liked the cuff length, which fitted easily inside or outside my jacket. Less impressive were the fingertip seams, which are just at the point you want to touch things. This really affects dexterity, and if used regularly this…

Jonathan Cook Has hiked and climbed all over, but his passion for the Lakes remains. Keith Fergus Author of 15 guidebooks to Scotland’s isles and coastline walks. Kate Worthington Lifetime mountain walker, now living and working in Snowdon’s shadow. Dan Bailey Author of Scotland’s Mountain Ridges and a huge fan of big routes. Tom Hutton Our Wales expert; his knowledge of Cymru's peaks is unsurpassed. Ange Harker Nidderdale born and bred, and an experienced walking guide. Ronald Turnbull Creator of a whopping 30 guidebooks and 18 unique coast-to-coasts. Paul Besley Writer, ranger, Mountain Rescue volunteer... and our Peak District guru. BEFORE YOU GO... If you’re likely to encounter snow or ice on your walk you need to take precautions. You MUST have ice axe, crampons and the skills to…

Distance 7.8km (4¾ miles) Total ascent 523m Time 3¾ hours Start/finish Small parking area by Jubilee Bridge at the foot of Hardknott Pass near Eskdale ( NY213011) Nearest town Ambleside Terrain The walk is on typical Lakeland fells on clear, well-defined and marked paths with the occasional boggy section to circumvent. In summer months expect ample bracken on the route! Map OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL6 Accommodation Eskdale Youth Hostel, 0345 371 9317, www.yha.org.uk/hostel/eskdale Woolpack Inn, 019467 23230, www.woolpack.co.uk King George IV Inn, Eskdale Green, 019467 23470, www.kinggeorge-eskdale.co.uk Fisherground Campsite, 07580 125952, www.fishergroundcampsite.co.uk Eskdale Campsite, 019467 23253, www.eskdalecampsite.co.uk Public transport None to start Guidebook The Southern Fells by Alfred Wainwright Tourist info www.eskdale.info GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

12.6 km/ 7¾ miles 6 hours The prominent Mynydd y Berwyn (Berwyn Hills) sit proudly between Snowdonia National Park’s eastern boundary and Oswestry. A National Nature Reserve and Site of Special Scientific Interest, this high and rough moorland gives interest and challenge in abundance, with sweeping contours, sharp slate escarpments, calls of red kites and peregrines, and blanket bilberry and heather. Summer skylarks will sing and eyes are drawn to the enticing east-facing edges, which fall away to the rolling farmland beyond. The massif (the loftiest Welsh land outside the country’s National Parks) draws solitary souls to its heights and is very exposed to a westerly wind! This route captures obvious delights (the waterfall of Pistyll Rhaeadr, summit cairns and passes) and makes the most of efficient walking on the…

Distance 27.6km (17 miles) Total ascent 2340m Time 14 hours (Two days recommended in winter) Start/finish Car park at the end of the Glen Nevis road ( NN167691) Nearest town Fort William Terrain In summer, narrow, occasionally scrambly ridges. In full winter conditions it becomes more of a mountaineering challenge, nudging Grade 1 winter climbing in one or two places. Hazards include overhanging snow cornices, steep icy slopes and the possibility of avalanche. This route is only for appropriately equipped and experienced winter walkers Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) 392, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 41, Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Ben Nevis & Glen Coe Accommodation Glen Nevis YH, 01397 702336 Ben Nevis Inn, 01397 701227 Calluna, Fort William, 01397 700451 Public transport Bus or train to Fort William Tourist info Fort…

16.6 km/ 10¼ miles 6 hours It’s easy to forget, sometimes, that the Lake District has quiet bits. It’s a National Park and a World Heritage Site for a reason, and we share our love of its landscape with millions of others. Sometimes, though, we just need a bit of space – and there’s nothing wrong with indulging your inner anti-socialite once in a while. This route is great when you’re after some decent ascent and mileage, but on easy(ish) terrain without the technicality – or the crowds. In good weather, navigation isn’t too difficult either. For those reasons it’s also a great route to introduce friends or kids to hillwalking. And once the main climb is done it’s done, leaving you with a high, easy walk off and time…

Strenuousness Navigation Technicality Wainwrights Trail 100s Distance 15km (9¼ miles) Total ascent 950m Time 7 hours Start/finish Car park above Threlkeld ( NY318255) Terrain Summer scramble Grade 1 (easy in the grade, but winter difficulties will depend on conditions), level plateau and small hill paths Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL5, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90, Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Lake District North GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE! LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES In association with…

The Lyke Wake Walk runs east from Osmotherley across the North York Moors National Park to the strange ‘incomplete’ town of Ravenscar on the east coast. The walk can be completed as the original 24-hour challenge or as a leisurely two- or three-day crossing. The route affords spectacular views out to the coast accompanied by moorland crossings with Bronze Age barrows and ancient crosses marking the way. Much of the walk is along easy-going terrain, making this perfect for a weekend ramble. Completing the challenge walk makes individuals eligible for membership of the Lyke Wake Walk Club, with females receiving the title of ‘Witch’ and males ‘Dirger’. ROUTE 10 Osmotherley to Blakey Ridge ROUTE 11 Blakey Ridge to Simon Howe ROUTE 12 Simon Howe to Ravenscar TRANSPORT By car satnav…

“Steel Edge defines the southern edge of the north-east-facing combe of Wetherlam.” Brian Davison, Lake District Winter Climbs “Wetherlam features prominently in Brathy views like a giant whale surfacing above waves of lesser hills.” Alfred Wainwright, A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells – The Southern Fells “Let the crowds congregate on Coniston Old Man, but they who know a good thing will seek out the many sides of Wetherlam” Mark Richards, Great Mountain Days in the Lake District…

The best option if you want as much hassle taken out of the equation as humanly possible. Your holiday provider does it all: transport (flights may be optional), accommodation, itinerary, route planning, guiding and at least some of the meals, and you travel and walk as part of a group. And (with a reputable company) you get a guide who knows your destination backwards. Some trips may have two guides, allowing the group to split for harder and easier walks each day. There may be some extra costs aside from refreshments (local transport, some meals, rest-day activities), but mostly it’s all-inclusive. PROS: Everything is planned; absolute clarity on route, terrain and objectives; friendly company, knowledgeable guides; generally good accommodation; guides are trained to cope with emergencies. CONS: Little room for…

Assisted travel but minus the guide and the group. The company sets up the itinerary and lodgings, and provides you with maps and instructions for each day’s walk. Plus, they whisk your luggage from one hotel to another if your trip is multi-centre or a continuous trek. Ideal for experienced walkers who are confident navigators with a routecard. You should also be given contact details for queries or emergencies. PROS: Peace, freedom, a greater degree of independence; clear route instructions (ask to see an example before you go); good accommodation. CONS: No human guide means less instant access to local knowledge and insight, aside from what’s printed on your routecard or guidebook; you may be on your own in an emergency. A PERFECT EXAMPLE: Exodus’ Amalfi Coast self-guided tour; 8…

For all interests… • Exodus Travels www.exodus.co.uk • Grand American Adventures www.grandamericanadventures.com • Headwater www.headwater.com • HF Holidays www.hfholidays.co.uk • KE Adventure Travel www.keadventure.com • Ramblers Holidays www.ramblersholidays.co.uk • Walks Worldwide www.walksworldwide.com • Whereabouts Holidays www.whereaboutsholidays.com For dedicated mountain and wilderness adventures… • Collett’s www.colletts.co.uk • Jagged Globe www.jagged-globe.co.uk • Mountain Kingdoms www.mountainkingdoms.com • World Expeditions www.worldexpeditions.com…

“All the group walking holidays I’ve been on have been terrific. There was just one guy who was quite a loudmouth: a bit old-fashioned (i.e. slightly sexist) and liked to seem like he knew it all. But it was quite easy to keep my distance and enjoy the views, or talk to others I was more comfortable with. And after a while, we realised it was his self-defence mechanism. Beneath the bluster was a guy who was quite nervous about it all, and he mellowed a lot as the week went on.”…

HOW DOES IT WORK? If you don’t fancy joining a group, and like more control over your break as a whole, self-guiding is the answer. If you book with a holiday provider, they will most likely arrange your itinerary, hotel(s), ground transport and some meals, as well as baggage transfer – and they should definitely give you route notes and mapping for each day’s walk, as well as contact details for queries and emergencies. All you have to do is follow the instructions, and, provided you get where you’re meant to be by the end of the day, you can go at your own pace. Luke Smith and Elena Sleet, authors of the blog whatifwewalked and reps for Headwater, explain the appeal: “By following route notes already laid out for…

For all interests… • Exodus Travels www.exodus.co.uk • Headwater www.headwater.com • HF Holidays www.hfholidays.co.uk • Inntravel www.inntravel.co.uk • KE Adventure Travel www.keadventure.com • Macs Adventure www.macsadventure.com • The Natural Adventure Company www.thenaturaladventure.com • Sherpa Expeditions www.sherpaexpeditions.com • Walks Worldwide www.walksworldwide.com • Whereabouts Holidays www.whereaboutsholidays.com For dedicated mountain and wilderness adventures… • Collett’s Mountain Holidays www.colletts.co.uk • Jagged Globe www.jagged-globe.co.uk • Mountain Kingdoms www.mountainkingdoms.com • World Expeditions www.worldexpeditions.com…

We always used to organise our own trips abroad but in 2016 we used Macs Adventures to help organise a self-drive-and-walk tour in the south-west USA (just the two of us!) It was just fantastic. The locations were all in different national parks, from the Grand Canyon to Yosemite via Bryce Canyon, Zion and Death Valley. There were one or two recommended walks detailed for us in each location with spectacular drives in between. All the lodgings were pre-booked – but alterations to the venues were possible. The walks varied from fairly easy to quite strenuous, but again it was possible to program in walks for different abilities. Stunningly varied and unexpectedly amazing throughout! Frances Ipson I love the feeling of just having to get from A to B each…