Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2017 i Trail

Bathed in the warm glow of autumn sun, with just a nip of winter in the breeze, the hills of the Lake District are at their very best as summer slips into its final spectacle. Bracken shrivels and dries to a crisp bronze blanket covering the slopes and melting into the still luscious green meadows of the valleys. Broadleaf-lined lakes reflect the reds and golds of the changing leaves in the dark stillness of water. An ethereal mist rises from the residues of summer sun captured in the depths of those lakes. This is a time in the Lake District that should not pass by unnoticed in the busyness of life. The summer crowds have dissipated so if you choose the right route, you’ll have it all to yourself. If…

This is the Teva Ember Moc. Exactly what a Teva Ember Moc is, well, we’re not entirely sure. Best guess is somewhere between a slipper and a deck shoe. Tell you what, though, they’re ridiculously comfortable. As something to slip on after a long day in walking boots, it’s hard to imagine anything better. And the proper rubber outsole means they d on’t have to be limited to indoor use. Available in men’s and women’s sizes and a variety of colours. Sure, you wouldn’t want to strap on crampons and ascend the Ei ger, but for pottering around a campsite, b othy or hostel, they’re ideal. Your friends, other campers, hostel staff and complete strangers may all point and l augh (we did), but your feet will regard it as…

The first hill I climbed was Snowdon. I left my teddy bear (Edward Bear) at the top and had to get the train back up to retrieve it because I was so distraught. Funnily enough I was back there as an adult getting my Mountain Leader certificate. My love of adventure was sparked by a childhood in the Leicestershire countryside building dams, tree houses and dens. It was a time when kids could roam the fields for days on end in the holidays without a care in the world. We would play manhunt (one boy was given an hour head start and the others sometimes took all day to find them) over a vast inter-village scale. I think with that playground as a start in life it’s no surprise I…

Got a great UK mountain photo? Quick, don’t miss your chance to enter the Trail Mountain Photo of the Year competition to win one of three fabulous Fujifilm cameras collectively worth £3,000. This prestigious competition has seen winners go on to appear on television, in newspapers, and even publish their own books! You can enter up to three images at the website below. Entries close on 9 October 2017. Missed the deadline? You can still participate by viewing this year’s entries at www.livefortheoutdoors.com/ mountainphoto17 and, from 28 October 2017, voting for your favourite from a short-list. Whether you enter this year or next, our top photography tips below will help you take your best shots ever. So start practising... #5 LOCATION CHOICE TIPS FOR GETTING A BETTER PICTURE Fujifilm ambassador…

I have always loved books – travel and exploration books in particular. And I’m jealous of people who’ve not read The Worst Journey in the World, or The Kon-Tiki Expedition, or Wind, Sand and Stars, for they still have those joys to come. When I first began reading books like this I was a student in Edinburgh and riddled with wanderlust. Desperate to explore mythical-sounding places like Patagonia and the Karakoram, I burned off my energy dashing around the Pentland Hills and up and down Arthur’s Seat. When I discovered the wonderful variety of books about British landscapes and adventures, I began using them as inspiration for planning trips around the UK, so I want to share some of my favourites with you to encourage you to read them and…

“Assynt is like a BIG page from a physical geography textbook! A wondrous place of rocky old glaciated peaks. And Suilven is a fantastic mountain – a crescendo of an ascent. It looks dramatic and almost unscalable for a walker, but it is a very exposed steep walk, with exceptionally rewarding views. It feels like a big mountain peak. I’d recommend it. “It was special to climb it in such ethereal weather conditions – setting off in the morning in clagged-in greyness and then the cloud melting away as steam from a kettle dissipates. It was magical, revealing a Tolkien-like landscape with a view to Stac Pollaidh and beyond. “Since then I’ve seen the film ‘Edie’ about a woman played by Sheila Hancock who climbs Suilven. It’s a lovely film,…

After finishing work and packing one of those spontaneous adventure rucksacks, I started on my way from Stonethwaite with the cave at the base of Cam Crag as my night’s abode and objective. That is, if I could find it. For although it’s the worst-kept secret in the Lakes, it’s still hard to find. At this point perhaps I should mention the fact that I have history with it. Twelve years ago my partner and I tried to find it with no success. We spent two nights wild camping high on Woof Stones, sure we were close. And close we were, for a year or two ago a friend showed me its location. All made sense – before we had started searching too high, not thinking it would be closer…

Q I’ll be climbing Tryfan soon for the first time. One thing I’m always wondering about it whether I could do the leap between Adam and Eve. I’ve seen a zillion pictures of it but still have no idea how hard it is. Michael Wheat, via email Trail says The question of the infamous leap between Welsh cracker Tryfan’s summit pinnacles is something we get asked about a lot. So the last time we were up there, we took the liberty of doing some measurements so that when you get to the top of Tryfan, you have an idea of what to expect. • The leap itself is 130cm (4ft) – which sounds a lot, but is really just long enough to be thoughtful. It’s the equivalent of a very long…

Q I’m getting to grips with scrambling and trying to find my level. But everyone I speak to seems to have different ideas about grades. Is there an ‘official’ definition of grades 1, 2 and 3 I should know about? Steve Potter, Peterborough Scrambling grades are a valuable means of judging whether your ability matches the route you’re attempting. They were first employed in Steve Ashton’s (newly revised) Scrambles in Snowdonia guidebook, and have since been refined and applied to scrambling routes across the British Isles. As scrambling can carry considerable risk, it’s important to understand what the grades mean. Don’t forget these can be subjective as every route is different – and so is every scrambler. Never climb up anything you can’t comfortably climb down again, and vice versa if…

“ THEY LISTEN OUT FOR NATURAL SOUNDS – A RIVER, ANIMAL ALARM CALLS – AND SCENT PLAYS A PART.” An air-splitting roar and the morning has been violated. Five men sink to one knee; “C’mon boys, I want the aircraft type, time and vector, this is vital intel.” For trainee Special Forces troops, four F-15s putting in an unexpected appearance is a nerve-straining experience these guys need to be well equipped for. We’re on patrol, not four hundred miles behind enemy lines but just north of Thirlmere in the Lake District. This is a Special Forces Advanced Navigation Course. Run by the co-founder of The Ultimate Navigation School (UNS), Lyle Brotherton, Special Forces (SF) represent the sharp end of the charity’s repertoire. From Brownies to Scouts, from walkers to Mountain…

HAVE YOU HAD a brilliant summer holiday in one of our 15 glorious National Parks? Perhaps you witnessed a sunrise in the Cairngorms, took your firstborn up their first Lake District mountain or soaked your friends under a waterfall in the Brecon Beacons. If you took a picture of it, that snap could win you £200 worth of gear from Columbia, supporters of the UK National Parks. Columbia kit will protect the people working in our National Parks from this winter and over the next five years, helping them stay out there longer to steward our natural environment. Send us your exciting shots, your moody captures of a final descent, that blissful sunset or snaps of exhilarated faces – anything that shows what makes our National Parks so special to…

A REPROOFING LOOK FOR products to revive waterproofs and footwear. Spray-on proofers can increase the water repellency of rucksacks and tents. Pictured NIKWAX TX Direct Wash-In 1L £15 B GLOVES LOOK FOR waterproofing and close dexterity to avoid having to remove them to undo zips, alter rucksack shoulder straps and so on. Pictured EXTREMITIES Waterproof Power Liner Glove £22 C STUFFSACK LOOK FOR low-weight, roll-top closure and various sizes and colours for ultimate pack organisation. Pictured SEA TO SUMMIT Ultra-Sil Dry Sacks from £8 D GAITERS LOOK FOR good-quality waterproofing such as Gore-Tex, plus good fit and adjustability to help keep water out of your boots and mud off your trousers. Pictured BERGHAUS GTX Gaiter £50 E RUCKSACK COVER LOOK FOR a rucksack with an integrated waterproof cover; or you…

Welcome to Trail’s routes section: your cut-out-and-keep guide to the best days in the UK hills. Whether it’s an airy mountain scramble, a classic Lakeland fellwalk or a multi-day backpacking epic, you’ll find it here... written by experts, walked by you. WALK HERE THIS WEEKEND The summit of Mellbreak p116 TRAIL ROUTES use OS mapping and gradient profiles, and are available to download at www.lfto.com/routes…

In the south-eastern corner of Snowdonia is a series of steep grass hills with flat moor-topped summits, which are soft and boggy underfoot. The Aran Range bucks this trend with its rocky cliff faces and craggy peaks poking 250m higher than its easterly neighbours. The highest in the range is Aran Fawddwy – a summit often overlooked due to it falling agonisingly short of the esteemed Welsh 3000s (9.5m short, to be precise) and being located in the unfashionable end of the National Park. But it’s a great climb, and views are vast, with the park’s northern summits visible in the distance, and Cadair Idris and the Rhinogs bursting up from the horizon (Rhinog Fach’s ‘table-top’ summit contrasts beautifully with neighbouring Rhinog Fawr’s pyramidal shape). This walk involves a long,…

When compared to its bigger Cairngorms neighbours Creag Dhubh is a much more compact mountain. With its broad summit plateau rising to 848 metres however, it should not be underestimated. The walk begins from the gorgeous location of Loch an Eilean, the Loch of the Island. The island in question is famous for its castle. It's thought that a defensive site has been here since the 13th century, with Alexander Stewart, also known as the Wolf of Badenoch, its most noted resident. The higher ground across much of this route is pathless where good navigation and map reading skills would be required in poor visibility. Nevertheless on a clear day the views are exceptional, extending across much of the Cairngorm National Park – the vista to Sgoran Dubh Mor and…

It often seems like if something is lost, it’s also bound to be valuable. The other glove, that important thing you put in ‘a safe place’, your keys, wallet, phone... In this case, it’s a hill. Midway along the western ridge to Snowdon, it’s neither a start nor an end point, it’s not the highest or especially spiky, it’s just a jutting up piece of ground and rock in the middle of many other bits of the same stuff. It gets missed, it’s a bit lost. And it is valuable. Moel Cynghorion stands proud of the ridge, a deep bwlch on either side separating it from Moel Eilio and Foel Goch to the west, and Garnedd Ugain and Snowdon to the east. It’s most often walked as part of a…

HIMALAYA: THE TRIBULATIONS OF MICK AND VIC Mick Fowler and Vic Saunders Lulu Publishing For reasons nobody will ever fully explain, Mick Fowler is more famous outside of Great Britain than in it. He is mountaineering royalty in France, for instance, having won the Piolet d’Or - the Golden Ice Axe – three times for multiple audicious first ascents on the sort of terrain that would make most of us fall over hyperventilating – and does so with the absolute least fuss. You might even get the impression he’s enjoying himself. Because Mick Fowler makes history in his holidays. Beneath the headlines he’s a normal bloke with a normal job working for HMRC, who in ‘idle’ moments undertakes the most scrupulous of investigations to identify what he calls “objectives” –…

‘‘I realise our bivvy bag has turned into a body bag. If I can’t find the zip, we’re utterly screwed.’’ When I walked 500km across the Australian Outback I forgot to put the footbeds in my boots. Thankfully my feet swelled up to absorb the extra space. I once walked into a tree while shouting at my lovely Labrador, Harpo, for barking at a log. But my worst sin of idiocy happened on the famously dangerous South Downs. Harpo and I reach Lewes station at 10pm. It’s raining. We’re out for a night walk and some wild camping. We start walking; it carries on raining. But still, I’m neither sugar nor salt, there’s no such thing as bad weather, blah, blah, so off we go. I resolve to stop walking…

“PUMLUMON MEANS ‘ FIVE PEAKS’ , FAWR IMPLYING ITS STATURE AS THE HIGHEST.” Did you know that the UK’s National Parks are not protected in the same way that, say, Yellowstone National Park is? In fact, technically, they’re not even National Parks at all. I didn’t, and I had to go to a 752m hill in the middle of Wales, that isn’t part of any park, of any definition, to find out. We park at the end of a long, skinny road, after rolling slowly over its sinuous humps and bends, barricaded periodically by metal gates. The road has come to a halt, next to the irregular arm of a dragon-shaped reservoir, so we stop and climb out, rolling stiff shoulders and stretching cramped limbs. Ours is the only car…

As part of Trail’s mega 2017 #EverestAnywhere challenge Marmot is offering a fantastic tent, sleeping bag and rucksack worth £710 to the winner of the Great British Marmot Hunt! All you have to to be in the draw is find one of our #EverestAnywhere Marmot Marv mascots that we released into the hills of Britain. The bid to find one will help get you out and about, aim high and have a little (lot of!) extra fun while conquering the height of Everest. If you find one, he’s yours to keep and you’ll then be entered into a free prize draw to win this über-cool Marmot kit. Only #EverestAnywhere challengers have access to the clues of where to find them, but marmot- hunting season closes on 3 November, so be…

Choosing between natural down and synthetic insulation is quite a challenges for hillwalkers. Down is exceptionally efficient, so you need less of it to stay warm, which results in jackets being lightweight with a small pack size. Synthetic insulation, however, performs better than down when damp, is lower priced and there are no concerns around animal welfare during its production. Perhaps the ultimate insulation is one that combines the benefits of both materials, and PrimaLoft believes it has achieved that with its ThermoPlume insulation. The Montane Icarus for men and Phoenix for women are the first jackets to use PrimaLoft’s innovative insulation. Packed into microbaffles visible as horizontal lines of stitching across the garments, the insulation consists of individual, down-like plumes of synthetic material which allows it to be blown…

You would be forgiven for thinking that the impressive Dol Peris, standing in the centre of lake-side Llanberis village, surrounded by magnificent Snowdonian vistas, is the preserve of luxury-seekers only. In fact, the guesthouse offers simple but comfortable accommodation from £30 a person, per night. Operating on a self-catering basis, there are 10 newly-refurbished private rooms, with bed linen and towels provided. Six are en suite, with the choice of single, double, triple or quadruple rooms. A large well-equipped shared kitchen, well-stocked with tea and coffee, allows you to self-cater, and a dining and sitting room are provided. Owners Phil (mountain instructor and international mountain guide) and Lisa George run an outdoors activities company (www.phillgeorge.com) and are keen to offer affordable and comfortable lodgings for outdoors folk. Wet outdoor kit…

The re-wilding of Ennerdale is having a dramatic effect. Long gone are the soul-sapping ranks of blanket conifers and overgrazed fells, replaced by a rapidly developing landscape of mixed woodland, glades, sparkling rivers and rough craggy mountain slopes. It's an extraordinary place to explore and although the project is still developing, the result so far is exciting to witness. However, the project is on such a large scale, the only way to take it all in is to explore it from above as well as within. A network of old and new paths along the valley bottom satisfy the within bit and covering the above bit makes a perfect excuse to walk the lonely summits on Ennerdale’s south-western fringe. These summits occupy a dog-leg ridge culminating in the rather grand,…

Dartmoor is as remote as it is wild, and you often don’t have to go far to find the beauty it contains. With its massive tors and rivers cutting through them, it is an inspiring place. Cranmere Pool is regarded as the remotest part of Dartmoor, and is the birth place of the tradition of letterboxing – a kind of early form of geocaching. This route, starting from the north side of Dartmoor, has plenty of scenery to absorb, taking you along the West Okement River and through the ancient oak woodland of Black Tor Copse. The letter box still stands there today and sits by the pool from which it gets its name. The route is a very straightforward out and back, with worn trails for most of the…

The three lakes of the Buttermere valley are crowded by some of England’s most impressive mountains. Lorton is a quiet village at the head of the Buttermere valley which makes the perfect base for a weekend among this imposing array of fells. The broken tusk of Mellbreak erupts from Crummock Water no further than three miles away, whilst the rocky pyramid of Hopegill Head looms even closer. On the doorstep is Low Fell, described by Wainwright as “a connoisseur’s hill” for its astonishing views, which extend to Great Gable high above Haystacks at the head of this valley. If it’s a weekend of varied mountain action you’re after, and you fancy somewhere off the beaten track and yet with a selection of good pubs, then Lorton could be your perfect…

1 NY161255 From High Lorton head up towards the Whinlatter Pass via a country lane. 2 NY178253 Double back on yourself just short of a Beech tree- lined section of road to follow a gated paved road for about 320m. 3 NY175252 Keep an eye out for a wooden signpost in amongst the verge. The indicated path rises over fields before slinking up Swinside and soon hits a wide shoulder of hillside that climbs steadily. Follow the wall as the ridge narrows and becomes rocky. 4 NY186222 Take care tackling the summit cone. The slabs are greasy when wet and treacherous if icy. It is worth pausing to pick a sensible line through them. This is not ever really a true scramble but at times you may feel the need…

Lying to the east of the distinctive whale-backed summits of Quinag, the elegant form of lonely Beinn Leòid is the fulcrum around which this fine walk turns. It takes in splendid mountain and loch scenery, plus two MBA-maintained bothies, and passes beneath Eas a’ Chual Aluinn waterfall – the highest waterfall in the UK with a 200m drop. Although this route benefits from a number of established tracks and paths, the region has a real ‘wilderness’ feel about it, with the views across glens, ridges, summits, lochs and coastline playing a significant part in this. There are a few off-piste sections where navigational acumen comes into play and boggy and tussocky ground makes for hard going in places. The first day’s route is tough walking with the MBA bothy at…

1 NC283337 From Glendhu bothy, head south-east up through Gleann Dubh on the ATV track with little gradient for 2km. There follows a steep climb before the gradient eases then levels. Cross a footbridge over the Abhainn a’ Ghlinne Dhuibh, with the picturesque Eas Creag an Luchda waterfall upstream, and continue climbing for 1.5km until the metalled track runs out. Just beyond a brief zigzag section of path, strike out southwards, across rough and boggy open moorland, for the north ridge of Beinn Leòid. The ridge is grassy at first, giving way to awkward bouldery slopes higher up. The summit, furnished with a trig point and low shelter wall, is gained at 792m. The views are magnificently expansive: a tumult of moorland, lochs, mountains and sea with Ben More Assynt…

One word: Dartmoor 1 Crowning the National Park, Okehampton has everything you need for a walking holiday in Dartmoor. Easily accessible by car and public transport, this corner of the south-west is a treasure trove of rolling hills, granite tors and deep, wooded valleys. The benefits of the town are on hand but you can also walk straight onto the moors within minutes. To go wild 2 This National Park embraces all that is wild: wild camping is largely legal, wild swimming opportunities plentiful, wild places abound… Dartmoor positively encourages you to lose yourself to your more primitive self. Visit tinyurl.com/yddsfgrv to see where camping is permitted and grab a copy of Wild Swimming Walks in Dartmoor and South Devon by Sophie Pierce and Matt Newbury for loads of wild…

Between 1883 and 1904 a weather observatory stood atop Ben Nevis, the remains of which can still be seen today. Three weathermen lived there and every hour recorded temperature, rainfall, wind speed, sunshine, cloud and pressure. For 20 years it was funded by various benefactors – including Queen Victoria – but it had to close due to lack of resources. The men collected two million observations that have never been fully analysed – and now you can help rescue this data which could impact on weather forecasting today. The project, Operation Weather Rescue, is being headed up by Reading University’s Prof Ed Hawkins who is calling for members of the public to help copy tables into a database. Find out more and volunteer at www.weatherrescue.org…

WIN THESE SOCKS The owner of the best face wins three pairs of socks from 1000 Mile, creator of the original double layer sock with its famous Blister-Free Guarantee. 1000 Mile’s range now includes single-layer padded socks, plus the Fusion range, which mixes double layer and padding, and offers socks for every type of outdoor activity. Try them with free p&p, using the code TLFP. Send a picture of your haggard hill fizzog to trail@bauermedia.co.uk…

Twenty thousand kilometres. That’s what separates North Pole dwelling polar bears from their Antarctic penguin pals. But it’s still easy to forget that these frosty fellas don’t hang out together like Christmas cards suggest. And that’s nothing. Fifty-nine million years is what separates dinosaurs from cavemen (plus another six million until Raquel Welch appears on the scene). Yet it can be difficult to get your head round the fact that the whole running/screaming/hiding from a T-Rex never happened outside of Hollywood. And finding out that one of the UK’s greatest mountaineers has never set foot on one of its greatest mountains? Mind. Blown. “Suilven seems to have escaped me – what with having been in the Himalaya,” Alan Hinkes explained as we left the Suileag bothy and headed into the…

NALGENE 1 LITRE WIDE MOUTH BOTTLE £13 Clementine, Pomegranate, Woodsman, Aubergine, Cerulean, Melon Ball and Olive. Not the ingredients for the latest weight-loss super-smoothie, but the new fruity colours in Nalgene’s autumn 2017 range of hydration bottles – a design which has otherwise remained virtually unchanged in 50 years . www . firstascent.co . uk NOOZIE PEBBLE £30 The Pebble is a delightfully tactile, portable power bank with a neat trick up its smooth-rounded sleeves. In addition to providing 3500mAh of on-the-go power to charge your mobile devices, it’s also a handwarmer, providing up to four hours of double-sided heat. www.nooziecomfort.com LIFEVENTURE ULTRALIGHT DRY-BAGS FROM £9.99 To keep your kit dry and organised, a selection of dry-bags in various sizes and colours is the perfect solution. From 2-70 litres with…

Best for a low-budget REGATTA PACK-I T OVERTROUSERS £20 If If you just need basic overtrousers for occasional showers and don’t want to bust your bank balance then these are a great option. They are exceptionally light, too, at just 171g and pack into their own stuffsack for easy stowage in your rucksack. They are made from Isolite 5000 nylon, whic h can’t boast the waterproofness and breathability lab results of more pricey trousers, but they’ll keep you dry when hillwalking nonetheless. There is no mesh lining inside, so any condensation that does develop yo u will notice, unlike higher-priced trousers. They come in men’s and women’s sizes and there is press stu d adjustment at the ankle cuff to prevent some flapping. The waist is elasticated. More expensive trousers…

If you want to try Snowdon but want to avoid some of the crowds, this is a route to consider. Climbing out of Llanberis you’ll reach a beautiful valley path, which climbs its way to the col between Foel Goch and Moel Cynghorion. You’ll find yourself on a peaceful walk up to the col, before turning left and tackling the steady climb of Moel Cynghorion. The ground is easy going and the views are spectacular, with the Clogwyn Du’r Arddu cliff (which has the Snowdon Ranger path above) looking sharp and tempting before you. In the distance you’ll see the bustling and crowded Llanberis path traversing the slopes alongside the train. Once you’ve taken in the views, start winding your way down before joining the Snowdon Ranger Path and following…

The Cairngorms National Park is bigger than some countries. Bahrain, Singapore, Luxembourg, Andorra – the latter three could fit inside the Park’s borders together. Which, for a park within a country that is itself considered fairly small by world standards, is pretty good going. Within its 4,528km² sway, areas the size of the Lake District get misplaced and forgotten about by most of us. Among them lurk such geographical accolades as the furthest point from a road in Britain, the oldest snow, the place where our coldest ever temperature was recorded, and the biggest swathe of remaining ancient Caledonian pinewood. This route doesn’t plunge into untravelled ground – though there are parts of it that certainly feel remote enough – but it does straddle two extremes, epitomised by the summits…

1 NY141209 There are often parking spaces at Church Bridge near The Kirkstile Inn. From here follow the singletrack road through Kirkgate Farm and along drystone wall-lined drovers’ roads until you reach a gateway near Flass Wood. 2 NY139202 Pass through the gate and directly upwards on a grassy break between the trees, emerging on open ground beneath Mellbreak itself. Follow the broad green path to the foot of several scree chutes. Ignore the urge to cut corners and follow the zigzag stony path that weaves alongside the scree. The path rises very steeply on Raven Crag. Pass over the northern summit and head across the saddle to the higher south top. 3 NY148185 At the south summit, take the more defined path that slaloms down steep grassy slopes. Keep…

1 NC240292 From the parking area follow the track parallel to the road, bear left where the road bends and follow an often boggy path to cross the outflow of Loch na Gainmhich on stepping stones. To the left the Allt Chranaidh drops precipitously into a fine gorge. Ignore the lochside path and follow an eroded path which soon climbs above the east side of the loch. The path becomes firmer as it climbs more steeply towards the Bealach a' Bhuirich. The path eases, then climbs again before levelling where the Bealach a’ Bhuirich is gained. As the high point of the bealach (450m) is reached just beyond Loch Bealach a’ Bhuirich there are big views back to Quinag and east to the wild hinterland ahead. 2 NC263282 Continue descending…

“ True to form, as with other granite ranges, there is some seriously steep terrain... ” Let’s be honest, when somebody mentions the word ‘granite’ our first thoughts jump to the towering spires and clean-cut walls of Chamonix, Yosemite or Patagonia, we don’t really think about British mountains, do we? There are occasional pockets of the stuff on our shores, but the modest and rather ancient nature of our topography means that the classic overpowering scale of granite formations is somewhat reduced and lost within geological confusion. Of course there are fine miniature displays among the tors and sea cliffs of the Cornwall and Devon, and the odd big wall tucked away in the Cairngorms. But the grand architecture is somehow mostly missing until you venture across the Firth…