Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2017 i Trail

Fake snow, mince pies, crammed streets, another hangover... Christmas can feel inescapable at this time of year, which might be absolute joy for some; but most of us need a break. For this, go to the mountains. You’ll find nothing for sale, so no-one is shopping; there are no speakers to play infuriating jingles; no-one will demand you wear a Christmas jumper (though you can if you want – the hills don’t much care). What there is is peace. Invaluable quiet. The soft crump of snow under your boots and the metallic taste of it on the air. The cut-glass sparkle of winter sun on ice. You can have an entire day with your friends; sit atop a snowy summit, cupping a plastic mug of steaming hot chocolate. There are…

Trail always inspires us readers to explore the far reaches of our amazing British landscapes. So, on a recent trip to Shetland with the OutdoorLads walking group, we decided to go as far north as you can possibly go on foot in the UK. Here we are at the northern tip of Hermaness Nature Reserve on the island of Unst. The only thing obscuring our view to the North Pole was Muckle Flugga and its lighthouse. To be honest, it’s worth going to the end of the land to see something called Muckle Flugga! Shetland was amazing. Stunning cliff walks with stacks, caves and blowholes aplenty; sea birds galore (but we missed the puffins by a week); minke whale (off Sumburgh Head); porpoises dancing in the waves from the Yell…

TRYFAN SNOWDONIA Striking a cool pose-cum-man-leg on the Cannon Stone is John Parry from Wrexham, in a photo by Andy Stephens. Andy told Trail they got up early, and were rewarded with “the sunrise along with a clear morning with stunning views”. COL DEI BOIS ITALIAN DOLOMITES After reading about via ferrata in Trail, Sue Acott, Sue Chandler and Anne Poole from Kent reclaimed their youth with some rocky adventures. Having survived the protected walks, they set off for the more strenuous and technical Col dei Bois. The photo was taken by “a rather pleasant Dutch gentleman”! GREAT GABLE LAKE DISTRICT This family foursome are Bryan and Anne Harrison from East Leake with their grandchildren Josh (11) and Ellie (13) Cotton. Bryan said the walk, which took in Green Gable…

A FLASK/MUG An insulated bottle will ensure your water doesn’t turn to ice. Avoid bladders, or – if you do take one – make sure the drinking tube is well-insulated to stop it freezing. Pictured: CamelBak Chute Insulated 1.2l £40 B BASE LAYER Merino wool is warm, wicks moisture well and doesn’t smell – ideal for camping after a long hike. Pictured: Smartwool PHD Lightweight Crew £65 C KINDLE A Kindle is lighter than a book and will keep you entertained during a dark evening – and you don’t have to use your torch if yours is backlit. Pictured: Kindle Paperwhite £110 D POWER PACK Fewer daylight hours may mean you’ll be on your phone a bit more to keep yourself amused. Keep its battery topped up…

Helvellyn – the third highest mountain in England – is often approached via the bustle and scrambling of Striding and Swirral Edges. However, if you are not into the total scrambling experience, then tackling the mountain from its quieter southern flank offers an interesting and picturesque alternative. It takes in some of the best views of Thirlmere and concludes with a fine series of waterfalls, some say the best in all Cumbria. Starting in the popular village of Grasmere – former home to poet William Wordsworth – the route follows an ancient packhorse trail that runs from Grasmere to Patterdale, initially alongside Little Tongue Gill before arriving at the ruffled waters of Grisedale Tarn. From here you ascend the distinctive zigzags of Dollywagon Pike before following an exhilarating exposed rim…

Marsco is arguably the finest of the Red Hills – otherwise known as the Red Cuillin – forming the eastern flank of Glen Sligachan. Approached from Sligachan, Marsco is easily identifiable, standing sentinel-like in isolation with its handsome profile of elegant, sweeping lines, interrupted by the craggy nose of Fiaclan Dearg – a granite outcrop on the western flank. At 736m, Marsco is neither a Munro nor a Corbett, but a Graham – a Scottish peak between 2,000 and 2,500ft. Size isn’t everything, though, and climbing Marsco is always a worthwhile endeavour in its own right; however it is the breathtaking panorama of Skye’s most iconic mountains that makes it an unforgettable one. Marsco is usually climbed from the Glen Sligachan path as an out-and-back route along the Allt na…

Geographically speaking, Lorton Vale stretches all the way to Honister, including Crummock Water on the way, and offers the ingredients for a thoroughly varied weekend. There’s a shorter isolated peak, whose steep and challenging flanks give worth to its status as a Wainwright, not to mention fantastic secret views both from atop challenging scree slopes and over Scale Force. There’s the highest Wainwright in the north-west Lakes, with a wild and somewhat secretive valley rising up below crinkly Gasgale Crags. Then there’s a series of four Wainwrights with a tough descent after the midway café – this does need good visibility and a snowline above 650m... TRANSPORT Train to Penrith, then X4/X5 bus to Keswick. In summer Honister Rambler Bus Service 77/77A runs from Keswick to Lanthwaite and Buttermere. Kirkstile…

1 NY ‘ 141209 Take ’ the no through road running south-west of the Kirkstile Inn, with the north flank of Mellbreak rising in steep shadow to your left. Enter access land at a gate and cross a narrow section of woodland. Ascend first gently through heathery bracken, then via two short but loose scree runs, which both bend leftwards at their tops onto easier ground with great views. A cairn marks the end of the main ascent. Bear right to a second cairn, which marks the popular northern top. 2 NY142194 The summit however is at the other end of the ridge! A variety of paths lead across the heathery and somewhat boggy summit plateau. Head south, dropping gently to a low point of 447m before gently rising again…

1 NN212706 The direct route onto Aonach Beag is menaced by cliffs, so the only feasible ascent is to first traverse west-south-west from the bealach. Once you’ve outflanked the crags, a snow slope can be climbed to reach the low point of the col connecting Sgurr a’ Bhuic with Stob Coire Bhealaich. This slope is very steep, its top edge may be corniced, and in avalanche conditions it could be very risky. If in doubt it’s better to miss out the Aonachs altogether and rejoin the route at Carn Mor Dearg. 2 NN204703 Climb north out of the col to reach the cliff edge overlooking Aonach Beag’s vast eastern corrie complex. This entire edge can be extremely heavily corniced, and if so will need to be given a cautious berth.…

Splashmaps are made for the adventurous among us. Printed on virtually indestructible fabric, this map can take just about anything you throw at it. Scrunch it up and take it with you wherever you go, confident that your map won’t rip or turn to mush when it rains. It’s not scared of a little mud – or the washing machine either. Best of all, it doesn’t break if dropped or run out of battery like a GPS unit can. The lucky winner will get to have their own personalised map printed, to cover anywhere in the world. You could pick your favourite mountain, your local town or even your own home. It’s completely up to you! www.splash-maps.com Great Christmas giveaway! www.lfto.com/christmascompetition…

What would you like for Christmas? A mountain? How about an acre of one? The John Muir Trust can make it happen. Its Adopt an Acre campaign, launched in November, allows you to protect an area of mountain landscape for one year, funding valuable conservation work on its slopes. On Ben Nevis, this will partly go towards managing visitor impact; native broadleaf woodland will be planted on areas around Bla Bheinn; and on Schiehallion important areas of bog and heather moorland will be protected. If you’d like to find some beautiful and protected mountainside in your stocking, go to www.johnmuirtrust.org Head to the hills in December for… Tiny birds in unlikely places In winter, thousands of snow buntings migrate south to join Britain’s few residents. You can hear their musical…

SNOWDON SNOWDONIA All smiles are Shaun Keal from Boston and his girls Grace (8) and Lyla (6). Shaun said, “They both loved it, although Lyla nearly lost the will to live near the top but was like a mountain goat on the way down. They want to do one in Scotland next so looks like I've got my hiking buddies sorted.” Each issue we’ll be giving away the new Summit 25/38 mattress from Multimat’s Expedition range. New materials make this self-inflating sleeping mat tougher and lighter for durability on unsupported expeditions. Tested to -35 deg C, its wedge profile maximises comfort and minimises weight, while a warm zone improves tog value under the torso. THIS COULD BE YOU! Send your shots, marked ‘Summit selfie’ to trail@bauermedia.co.uk…

Trail travelled to Eigg with Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) ferries. Thanks to the Road Equivalent Tariff (RET) scheme, which bases ferry fares on the cost of travelling the equivalent distance by road, the 24km ferry journey cost just £15.40 for two return tickets. CalMac runs a regular service from Mallaig on the mainland to the island, but don’t expect too many options. Even in summer there’s often only one ferry a day, and it leaves mid-morning. In winter there are even fewer crossings and they may be cancelled in bad weather, so check the timetables carefully and keep up to date with travel information. Those travelling from the south may find they need to break up the journey with an overnight stay. If you’re arriving late and leaving early (11pm and…

“Some caves make excellent homes, others only desperate ones”. Not that long ago, caves deep in the Highlands were sought out with desperation as places to hide from people who, if they found you, would almost certainly kill you. In 1746, immediately after the short but brutal Battle of Culloden, many Jacobites scattered. The mountains have boltholes for those who know the hills well enough and are strong enough to find them. Now, we’re more likely to seek out these shelters and narrow crevices for the simple delight of discovery. For the challenge of searching and the satisfaction of success. For us hillwalkers, they provide somewhere to swig your tea, lay down your sleeping bag or hide out from the weather – and nothing more menacing than that. The Scottish…

5% Navigation expert – it's good to be able to share the work, and safer to have two brains on the job. 5% Knowledgeable – what's that about lichen again? Which army fought a battle on this hill? A little of this goes a long way... 10% Baker – snacks are paramount. 10% Supportive – some hills you just need a little bit of help to get over. Even if that 'help' is relentless banter. 10% Instinctive – they know that sometimes on a walk you want to be quiet, and sometimes you could talk the hind legs off a Herdwick. 40% Reliable – so you know they have got your back in any hairy situations, will remind you if you leave your walking poles on the summit, and always…

When it comes to gloves, size matters. At least, fit does. If a glove is too close-fitting there won’t be enough space to trap warm air around your hands to keep them cosy. If it’s is too loose it will have poor dexterity and you will have to remove it when operating zips, maps or GPS receivers. It’s also important that you can easily get the gloves on and off without too much faff. To stay warm you need waterproof AND insulated protection. Not all gloves offer this, and some people like to wear a waterproof shell over a thinner insulating glove. Seams at the fingertips may allow water into the glove, which will make you cold. They also reduce dexterity and are less robust. Look for minimal stitching and…

“The body prioritises the core in cold conditions. This is why your feet often feel cold first.” Ray Mears and Lars Fält have dedicated their adult lives to wilderness living, often spending weeks at a time in areas that can reach -50 deg C. Their wisdom has been gleaned from army training, indigenous communities and simple hard-won experience in the north woods of the subarctic boreal forests of Scandinavia and Siberia. What they’ve learned about thriving in the cold is as relevant on a Scottish mountain top as it is in subarctic forests. In an extract from their stunning new book Out on the Land , here are some critical, simple skills for being more comfortable in the cold. Ray Mears World bushcraft expert and founder of Woodlore School. Lars…

Snow, high winds and more hours of darkness make winter camping a challenge, but with the right tent it can be an enjoyable adventure with almost as much comfort as in summer. The MSR Access 2 boasts a four-season design that is able to withstand snow dumped on its roof and ferocious winter winds. But, importantly, it is also designed to be lighter than even more robust mountaineering tents, to make winter backpacking over long distances more practical. To withstand winter weather the tent is built with a range of more durable materials. So you get 20 and 30 denier nylon ripstop used for the flysheet, inner and groundsheet, rather than the typical 15 and 20 denier materials used for lighter-weight summer backpacking tents. The poles are the new Easton…

Hill-bagging stats Walking the Wainwrights, the Munros, the Corbetts or the Welsh 3000ers? These routes have got you covered. Gradient profile We map every route for its unique gradient profile, giving you a pinpoint impression of its progressive steepness and the heights you’ll hit. What are the Trail 100s? They’re your tick-list of the 100 UK mountains you MUST climb! Download the full list from: lfto.com/trail100 Always take a map on the hill We aim to provide the most accurate information, but you must ALWAYS use an Ordnance Survey or Harvey map on the hill and double-check any directions against it. BEFORE YOU GO... If you’re likely to encounter snow or ice on your walk you need to take precautions. You MUST have ice axe, crampons and the skills to…

Sitting in the southeastern outskirts of the Cairngorms National Park, Loch Muick (pronounced ‘Mick’) and Dubh Loch (pronounced ‘Dooh lock’) occupy a magnificent slice of Highland scenery. A visit to them is best saved for times when excessive snow, ice and wind are keeping you off the tops. This way you can tie them together with a visit to the excellent Glas-allt-Shiel bothy creating a winter adventure to savour, whatever the weather. Starting at the Spittal of Glenmuick car park, itself just 14km to the south-west of the charming Victorian village of Ballater, the walk takes you swiftly along the shores of broad and beautiful Loch Muick to the Glas-allt-Shiel – itself tucked within a royal lodge (this is the Balmoral estate, after all). Converted from a semi-derelict outhouse into…

Some hills are entirely up-front, setting their best face proudly to the world. With extroverts like Buachaille Etive Mor or Beinn Dorain you know exactly what you’re in for from the off. But look past the show-offs, spend time getting to know quieter types too, and it’s amazing the depths of character you can uncover. Scottish hills do not come much more understated than Beinn Challuim. Seen from the A82 near Crianlarich, the grassy sprawl of its south-west flank does not exactly scream excitement. You might pass it a hundred times and never spare it a second glance; yet the dull façade is deceptive. Make the long haul up a deserted glen to Beinn Challuim’s hidden side and an aspect far grander and craggier is revealed. Here you’ll find the…

1 NY174169 From the Bridge Inn, take the Newlands road out of Buttermere. After roughly 300m a footpath towards Robinson heads right up the vague ridgeline, with several zigs and zags. 2 NY188171 There’s a sudden sense of arriving atop a wide, grassy ridge at a junction of paths. Turn right on a grassy path below High Snockrigg; this fades on descent to an ill-defined boggy col. Either of two separate paths lead upwards out of the bog to the summit of Robinson. 3 NY201168 Head south from the summit along a broad and well-defined path to a cairn by a fenceline. Follow the edge, initially with fenceline, then rise to a junction of the summit ridge of Hindscarth with Littledale Edge. Follow this north to Hindscarth summit. 4 NY215165…

If bigger is better, the Lochaber Traverse is best of all. The last word in Scottish ridge-walking epics, its scale and drama build all the way, from the sinuous ridges of the Grey Corries and over the hulks of Aonach Beag and Aonach Mor to a grand finale along the famous CMD Arête to Ben Nevis, the highest high in the British Isles. A tough wild camping two-dayer at any time of year, it’s in winter conditions that the Lochaber Traverse really comes alive as a true mountaineering adventure. With the menace of cornices, avalanche risk and bags of Grade I winter climbing on some very exposed snow ridges, it is only for experienced and well-equipped winter mountaineers in a spell of calm weather. TRANSPORT Regular mainline rail or intercity…

“...this magnificent crest of six rocky summits should figure high on your must-do list” Traversing the Nantlle Ridge takes you to a different place: it feels a bit like being in a stop-motion video. The world scurries by all around you while you tread from summit to summit in an altered time frame, savouring every fold and every corner of its ancient crest. Maybe it is its proximity to the sea and the coastal plane with its wide open and ever-changing skies – or maybe it’s down to its isolated and remote position, set well away from the main peaks of Snowdonia with all their merry hustle and bustle. Whatever the reason, for every seasoned mountain walker this magnificent crest of six rocky summits should figure high on your must-do…

A beautiful climb. Do it!” said ol’ Alf Wainwright about Fleetwith Pike. Simple enough – but why? Fleetwith fell is a sprawling thing, blasted by slate mines, carved on the top by tracks and paths; but the Pike part is quite different. Its edge leads from the shore of Buttermere, guarded by Scots pines, right to the summit. It is angular, definite and obvious. The path, and the climb Wainwright’s talking about, goes straight up its nose. It’s a pleasingly logical way onto the Buttermere hills with views straight down and over the lake. This doesn’t get boring, but changes slightly and constantly as you gain altitude and your angle of sight shifts. At the top, you find yourself among huge mountains. Pillar’s impressive hulk; Great Gable looking enormous and…

Scafell Pike, Snowdon or Ben Nevis? I’ll go for The Ben; it’s a proper mountain. Nowhere else in the UK has the range, the height or the conditions you get in Scotland. The highest mountain you’ve climbed? Shishapangma in the Himalayas (8027m). Shish was probably the hardest physical thing I’ve ever done, and the guide was pretty surprised I’d made it. He said: “I’ve never seen someone so bloody-minded to get up a hill.” Who’s your mountaineering hero? I have a lot of respect for Doug Scott and Peter Boardman. Having been a bit into the terrain they were working in, I know the fitness, acceptance of risk and experience that goes into doing these climbs. What do you love most about mountains? The quality of the light. It’s clean…

Late in August, we sailed our 9m boat Zephyr to Scotland, to go climbing on Mull, Skye and Eigg. I was inspired to do this by the ‘Mountain Isles’ section in the November 2015 issue, which described several routes that could be sailed to. During three wonderful days in the mountains, we covered eight peaks including two Munros and four Corbetts. We had to miss out Rum as our end date was fixed and we wanted to do the whole Cuillin, staying at the bothy as you did – but we will be back next year. I have already added the walk from the September issue, ‘Wildest West’, to next year’s adventure, so I now need to check how to dodge the rocks at the entrance to Lochailort! I particularly…

Dolphins have been spotted around the Small Isles over the past couple of days. The captain of the MV Lochnevis delivers this news over the public address system in a manner that suggests it’s not an entirely rare occurrence, but one worth highlighting. His passengers seem to agree. A murmur of excitement drifts through the ferry. Outside, binocular-toting hopefuls keep their lenses trained on the waters of the inner Sea of the Hebrides. The dolphins never come. But for at least two passengers braving the bow winds on the upper deck, something else holds their gaze. Tom and I are transfixed. Directly ahead, a lumpen pillar rises up at the end of an otherwise flat island. It looks strangely out of place, this tower. Incongruous, and sinister. The island is…

Standing on the summit of Calf Top, the views are both far-reaching and stunning. They are a mix of deep dales laced with rivers, trees, moorland and rough pasture, all framed perfectly by a shapely array of mountains and hills. The land all around is characterful. And without doubt, a prime example of the sort of landscape that should be afforded the highest level of protection to defend it from the worst excesses of development and exploitation. It’s the sort of place where you can stop, take a deep breath and for a short period of time realign with the natural world. It’s not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, as human tinkering over millennia has taken its toll; but on our small island with all the competition for…

This issue we’re looking at how easy it is to use natural features in the landscape to keep you on track. Handrailing, collecting features and catching features are the three techniques I use most, because they allow you to enjoy the great outdoors without constantly concentrating on navigation. Handrailing A ‘handrail’ is an easily identifiable linear feature, marked on your map, that you can follow towards your next attack point (or destination). Typical handrails are: • Fences • Forest edges • Overhead power lines • Paths, roads and tracks • River banks • Ridges • Stream beds • Valleys • Walls If visibility is reduced, either in poor weather or low light levels, then following a handrail is the safest form of travel – and in severe conditions the technique…

PEN Y FAN Location Brecon Beacons Height 886m (2,907ft) Summit grid ref SO012216 On the route of the ‘Fan Dance’ SAS recruitment exercise Formerly known as Cadair Arthur or ‘ARTHUR’S SEAT’ Legend: Llyn Cwm Llwch below Pen y Fan’s northwest face has an invisible island that is ruled by a fairy queen and can only be reached on May Day. Highest British peak south of Cadair Idris A Bronze Age cairn marks the summit Translates as ’The Mountain’s Peak‘ In 1900 five-year-old Tommy Jones went missing below Pen y Fan. High on Craig Cwm Llwch an obelisk marks where his body was found 29 days later. The Beacons Waylong distance path crosses the top PEN Y FAN IS FORMED FROM OLD RED SANDSTONE…

EDELRID TAURI £55 Hot because… This headtorch offers great build quality and clever design; both things you might expect from a German brand. But excellent value might not be. Edelrid has always strived to offer it all though, and the Tauri headtorch is a prime example. The 280 lumen lamp (which belts out a whopping 120m beam) is housed within a waterproof casing, while an over-the-head stabilisation strap keeps it in place during more energetic activities. If you need greater duration rather than maximum illumination, the Tauri offers an impressive 200 hours maximum burn time, which can be monitored via the charge indicator. And when it finally runs out of juice it can be recharged conveniently via the supplied Micro USB cable in just 3 hours. One or two components…

DMM CIRQUE AXE £85 When you start tackling steep slopes and mixed ground of rock and ice you may need to use a rope for belaying, and an axe labelled with a T rating is strong enough for such use, while a B-rated axe is not strong enough. The Cirque is a classic DMM axe for mountain use, with a curved shaft to make it easier to plant the shaft into steeper snow slopes, but also to allow the axe to more easily be used when swung as a pick to climb steeper ground. There is also a matching 50cm Cirque Hammer for paired use with this axe when tackling steeper terrain. The shaft has a rubber grip and you get a well-padded leash for security. The head has a…

YGarn’s summit sees plenty of footfall, yet many of those summiteers reach its 947m top while traversing the mountain from its least aesthetically appealing angle during an attempt at the Welsh 3000ers. Sitting in such close proximity to Tryfan, the Glyders and the sprawling mass of Snowdon, this is a peak that has to fight for attention and as a result is often ignored. But if you park in the Ogwen Valley and manage to drag your eyes to the right of Tryfan, you’ll see a wonderful, shapely mountain dominated by a huge, scooped cwm encircled by two curved edges. The ridge on the right is the one you’re interested in. During the summer months this is a simple walk up an obvious path, but in winter it has an…

Snow time is time-to-go time. And what we go to is the pointy ridges, their tops trampled to crampon firmness and their sides sliding away in perfect curves. What we go to is the Grasmoor group. But on short January days, perhaps not the whole lot of Grasmoor. Causey Pike has an exciting bit at the top, where you choose between an iced-over rock step, or the steep side slope where the path would be if winter snow hadn’t banked it over. Scar Crags isn’t the topmost – but it is tops in terms of elegant snowy ridgeline. And its steep north-western slope gives a great chance to experience the extra security offered by ice axe instead of walking poles. Outerside and Barrow bump up the Wainwright count, while you…

1 NY159207 From the lay-by head over a grassy meadow towards the deep valley of the Liza Beck. Ascend roughly 50m on a steep slope directly up the bracken-covered lower flank of Grasmoor, then look for a faint footpath contouring along the valley side. Even in Wainwright’s day this path “serves only for sheep”, having formerly been a walkers’ path up to Coledale Hause. (NB If the stream is high, this is likely to be impassable higher up, both tracks up Gasgale Gill may be prone to landslip and the more commonly walked higher level route over Whiteside and Hopegill Head to Coledale Hause becomes a better option.) 2 NY163208 The faint path weaves along the lower slopes below Dove Crags and with great views of the crinkled Gasgale Crags.…

1 NN255788 From the car park continue on the track, which passes through a gate into forestry and then zigzags uphill past the carved wooden statue of a black-robed preacher. At a gate on the far boundary of the woods, turn right off the track onto boggy ground. 2 NN261775 Initially climb parallel with the forest edge, but soon curve south on a path up a long grassy incline to the corrie rim at Stob Coire Gaibhre. In winter conditions cornices (overhanging ledges of snow) can be very large here, so take care. Follow the edge (but not too closely) on stonier ground to reach a curious plateau where the ridge to the sharp outlying summit of Stob Coire na Ceannain meets the main mountainside. 3 NN262742 Given time, Stob…

If you’re planning on making 2017 the year you head outside and start exploring, you’ll need some new gear. To help you on your way we’ve put together a great selection of outdoor kit worth £1,483. And one person will win the blummin’ lot! Have a look at the gear on offer over the next 13 pages, and if you fancy your chances at winning it all check out the link below. For a chance to win this amazing prize visit: www.LFTO.com/christmascompetition Terms and conditions: The closing date is 28 December 2016. To see our terms and conditions please visit the website www.bauerlegal.co.uk/competition-terms.html…