BY DAVID COHEN.
When I was a teenager in the 80s, many, if not all, professional surfers were named Wayne: Wayne Lynch, Wayne Jaggard, Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew, et al. It may have been that there were more people named Wayne in general back then, and the world of professional surfing merely reflected the community at large. I haven’t really looked into it that deeply. I wasn’t named Wayne, and perhaps that’s why I never succeeded as a surfer. The other, perhaps more compelling reason is that I never actually surfed. And I remain firmly committed to not surfing. I like to watch surfing, read about surfing, think about surfing, listen to surf music; but when it comes to doing surfing, a catalogue of private terrors—drowning, jagged reefs, mockery—keeps me away…