Not too long ago I was in the water at The Pass in Byron Bay, hovering in the channel, watching unhappily as another surfer flew toward me on a set wave. This lump of swell seemed perfectly formed, a glimmering, emerald wall of water reeling steadily along the tapered sandbank, growing as it travelled the length of the point. As per usual, it was a bit of a circus out there, and I’d not had a wave for some time. Ah, how I wished to trade places with that surfer. So much so that I began to chant in my head, a kind of mantra: fall off, fall off, fall off. If I willed it enough, just like Roald Dahl’s Matilda, surely this guy would lose his footing. He didn’t…