Rugged and wild coastlines are often home to reclusive and wild people, who have a relationship with the sea that exists outside of modern surf culture. Surfing, in these landscapes, is about knowing the water intimately.
I travelled to Australia’s far west recently, to the remote, weather-beaten Abrolhos Islands, 60 km off the coast of Geraldton. This is a place inhabited by cray-fishermen and old school surf nuts who prefer to spend the better half of their year bare footed, keeping civilization at a safe distance. It also has a history of barbarianism that’ll blow your socks off.
In 1629, a Dutch ship called Batavia wrecked on the Abrolhos and a mutiny and massacre ensued. A small band of mutineers embarked on a murderous rampage, killing 125 men, women and…