Five men in a dinghy. Five metres of Fijian hardwood, painted bright orange and yellow, a lovely contrast to Funafuti's blue water and green flora. Eti, 38, built this boat with his brother a few years back.
Pushing the dinghy is a modest 40-horsepower Yamaha, our lifeline as we slip from the jetty to nearshore glass to baitballs and flying fish to banging back-breakingly across the deep 11-mile-wide lagoon, through a deep, thin pass, and into the deep, sharky ocean. All are rough and torn with current. Soaked in saltwater we be.
This pass has a right and a left; both are wind-lashed and unsurfable for the whole of our stay. Aside from a few islets that are home to sea turtles and coconut crabs, no land is visible—looking back,…
