Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2023 i Town & Country

1983 JERRY HALL To paraphrase the ancient Greeks (and Shakespeare), clothes really do make the man—or woman. Examples abound throughout history, and in the present day. Note this month’s cover star, Sofia Richie, who engineered an impressive overnight identity transformation via Chanel couture, just in time for her spring wedding at the Hôtel du Cap. Clothes can also define a woman after the love fades. Two words: revenge dress. Princess Diana (you know the one), Mariah Carey, Elizabeth Hurley, Julia Fox… Now we can add Jerry Hall to this illustrious list. In 1983 she was photographed by Norman Parkinson for a T&C story dedicated to the art of the Lannan Foundation in Florida. Forty years later, and just months after the end of her six-year marriage to Rupert Murdoch, she…

While the Vanderbilts of the Gilded Age are best known for expertise in railroads and social climbing, they aren’t often credited for their contributions to design. Terrazzo flooring—a Venetian technique of tossing chipped marble, granite, glass, or quartz in a cement binder that is later ground and polished—became fashionable in the United States after the family installed it in their Fifth Avenue mansion. Unbeknownst to them, this would fuel both a wave of Italian artisan immigration and an aesthetic movement. After the Vanderbilts, terrazzo flooring went on an American tour during the 1900s and was used in projects ranging from the floors of Hoover Dam to the stars on Hollywood Boulevard. The technique was a favorite of the architect Richard Neutra, who used the flooring for his Midcentury Modern Southern…

“Any child of immigrants rebels against tradition,” says Nia Vardalos, “and then we morph into our parents and become immersed in them all.” For the star, director, writer, and executive producer of My Big Fat Greek Wedding 3 (in theaters this month), that process included recognizing her connection to the country her family left. “It felt like a disservice to not have that in a movie,” she said (we spoke prior to the SAG-AFTRA strike). So in the latest installment they are off—and arrive just in time. “Normally,” Vardalos says, “the first part of the movie would be them preparing for this trip. We get there in about eight minutes.” THE BLUE AND THE WHITE Legendary costume designer Colleen Atwood served as visual consultant on the film, and Vardalos asked…

BEGIN HERE When it was founded in Milan in 1967, Pomellato was a pioneer in what was then called prêt-à-porter jewelry. Before that, jewels were something you took out of the vault on special occasions. Pomellato created pieces for newly working, increasingly independent women to wear anytime they wanted. Those strong, handcrafted pieces remain classics and that mission Pomellato’s signature. The house introduced high jewelry in 2020, and though the rare stones and intricate designs of the one-of-akind handmade pieces may not suggest jewelry for every day, the Pomellato focus on the woman who wears each piece and the life she lives while doing so remains clear. As does its center of inspiration: The collection’s title is Ode to Milan. This Skyline necklace, which moves almost like a scarf draped…

VIRGO AUGUST 24–SEPTEMBER 23 Until Mercury starts moving forward on the 15th, uncertainty hangs in the air, and you shouldn’t pressure yourself to make crucial decisions. The new Moon on the same day, though, is all about taking the reins and taking action. Personal relationships are in a sorting-out phase, and you’re wise to let others work out their own issues; focus on your ambitions. RENNA ($3,600), RENNAJEWELS.COM PISCES FEBRUARY 20–MARCH 20 Important relationships will be coming out of a tailspin in September, and it’s time to focus on new plans and arrange-ments. Be ready to have in-depth discussions, especially after Mercury starts moving forward on the 15th. You’ll also need to start thinking about financial matters and collaborations and where you want to take them. BUCCELLATI ($360,000), 212-308-2900 LIBRA…

Chanel, C’est Moi “Clothes make the man” gets the point across, but “The apparel oft proclaims the man” (Hamlet, Act 1, Scene 3) just sounds better, doesn’t it? Either could be the cover line for our September star, Sofia Richie Grainge, who in one Chanel-studded wedding week transformed her Google search persona from Justin Bieber to Fashion Icon. The right white bouclé can do that. We’ve seen the life-altering power of fashion before. Remember when Liz Hurley appeared in that safety pin dress? When Eliza Doolittle dressed for Ascot? When Channing Tatum wore The Row? And it’s what the September issues of fashion magazines have always been about: the promise that a new wardrobe holds the possibility of a whole new you—though of course you’re perfect just the way you…

The days of the Breuer Building as a museum are waning. The brutalist structure on Madison Avenue was recently acquired by Sotheby’s, and the Frick Collection, which has been the building’s tenant since 2021, will hand over the keys at the end of next year. Until then, however, the place seems intent on flexing its muscle. An exhibition of work by Barkley L. Hendricks (1945–2017), curated by Aimee Ng and Antwaun Sargent, is chief among these efforts. Beginning September 21, paintings by Hendricks, the first artist of color to have a solo show at the museum, will hang alongside the Old Masters the Frick is known for, creating a connection between past and present. “The Frick was one of Hendricks’s favorite museums, and I wanted to show him at the…

The days of last minute travel planning are over. (You snooze, you lose.) I consulted a few travel guru friends about what we should all be thinking about right now (holidays? spring break? summer 2024?) and putting on our dream lists. Voilà. MARTIN RAPP The “nose” of the Altour travel company, for which he scouts choice places worldwide. Do now. Plan trips that require long booking lead times: Antarctica (a small travel window), Galápagos (limited availability), Africa (for the great migration—the trick is nabbing the right lodges to see it from), and Japan (because there’s such a run on it). Make your friends jealous. A week in a private palazzo in Venice with your own boat and pilot. Indonesia’s Nihi Sumba resort and/or the Raja Ampat archipelago. The White Desert luxury camp…

LE BRISTOL PARIS Welcome treats and bottles of Evian await here. So does a new friend: the hotel’s resident feline, a Birman named Socrate. THE PLAZA Your pet can make like Eloise’s pug, Weenie, with the Pampered Pup Package, which includes a hotel bathrobe and macarons delivered from the Palm Court. LE GRAND CONTROLE The pet perks are fit for royalty at this Airelles property on the grounds of Versailles. Think silver bowls, embroidered carpets, and a prix-fixe menu chien that includes a cheese course. ROSEWOOD LONDON A dedicated Pawcierge is at your disposal for guidance to the city’s most pet-friendly parks, shops, and restaurants. They’ll also plan a last minute party for Fido. FOUR SEASONS PUNTA MITA Pets can partake in surfing and yoga lessons with their humans. Or…

“Why Not Hang Gems?” the American jeweler David Webb asked in a 1963 essay. He believed in jewels as cultural artifacts, as integral to history and decorative arts as painting or sculpture, and also deeply connected to both mediums. In The Art of David Webb: Jewelry and Culture (Rizzoli), writer Ruth Peltason uses illuminating and often unexpected juxtapositions to outline his point and to celebrate the impact this belief system had on his work. Webb’s jewelry is never timid, and Peltason reveals his equally bold inspirations: a carved coral chrysanthemum brooch paired with Hokusai’s 19th-century print of a chrysanthemum; a coiled dragon brooch fueled by a Scythian gold animal pommel (6th century BCE); the hammered gold and gemstone Tree of Life necklace evoking the Gustav Klimt masterpiece of that name;…

Look at a few Elizabethan portraits and you’ll see it. Sit in front of any American society painting predating the 21st century and you’ll see it there, too. It isn’t the focal point, but somehow it is necessary, enveloping the subject in a cocoon of fine silk and ermine trim. “It provides an atmosphere of its own, lending a context to the sitters—and telling us something about them or their position in life,” Frances Bell, member of the Royal Society of Portrait Painters, tells T&C. “In a literal sense, they are wearing status.” Behold the gloriously multifaceted—and highly polarizing—cape, a cornerstone prop in portrayals of monarchy, religion, even war, a garment that ebbs into and flows out of fashion more often than any other. In our April 1916 issue, the…

IN THEORY & PRACTICE TIP 1: LEARN THE LANGUAGE Despite its popular association with ’80s glamour, the button earring emerged in the 1930s as a pared-down antidote to the dripping decadence of the Roaring Twenties. TIP 2: IDENTIFY YOUR IDOLS Coco Chanel, Jackie Kennedy, Joan Rivers, and Giovanna Engelbert have all done service to the style, but no one more than Joan Collins, as the inimitable Alexis Carrington on Dynasty. TIP 3: EXERCISE GRAND GESTURES Post-backs or clip-ons? Modern versions come in both, but consider the theatrical flair of pulling off a clip-on button earring to answer the phone. That’s an OG move.…

INFORMATION COVER BULGARI EARRINGS (FROM $7,550), BULGARI.COM. CHANEL TOP ($4,500), SKIRT ($5,100), AND HANDBAG ($3,300), 800-550-0005. DAVID YURMAN BRACELET (FROM $5,990) AND RINGS (FROM $4,200), DAVIDYURMAN.COM. ELLEN CHRISTINE COUTURE HAT ($1,240), ELLENCHRISTINECOUTURE.COM. IRENE NEUWIRTH RING ($13,940), IRENENEUWIRTH.COM INSIDE COVER LOUIS VUITTON, LOUISVUITTON.COM. LUGANO DIAMONDS, LUGANODIAMONDS.COM. SYLVA & CIE, MITCHELLSTORES.COM QUEEN OF THE TIKTOKRACY PAGE 88–93 BULGARI, BULGARI.COM. DAVID YURMAN, DAVIDYURMAN.COM. DEMELLIER, DEMELLIERLONDON.COM. DIOR, 800-929-DIOR. GLOBE-TROTTER, GLOBE-TROTTER.COM. GUCCI, GUCCI.COM. HERMES, HERMES.COM. IRENE NEUWIRTH, IRENENEUWIRTH.COM. MALONE SOULIERS, MALONESOULIERS.COM. .MANOLO BLAHNIK, MANOLOBLAHNIK.COM. VALENTINO, 212-772-6969. WOLFORD, WOLFORDSHOP.COM BREADWINNER’S DELIGHT PAGE 98–105 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM. AMATO NEW YORK, AMATONEWYORK.COM. ASSAEL, ASSAEL.COM. BELPERRON, BELPERRON.COM. CARTIER, CARTIER.COM. CHANEL HIGH JEWELRY, 800-550-0005. CHOPARD, CHOPARD.COM. DAVID WEBB, DAVIDWEBB.COM. DOLCE & GABBANA, 877-70-DGUSA. FENDI, FENDI.COM. FERRAGAMO, FERRAGAMO.COM. GIORGIO ARMANI, ARMANI.COM. HERMES, HERMES.COM. LOUIS VUITTON, LOUISVUITTON.COM. MAX MARA, MAXMARA.COM. MOSCHINO, SAKS.COM.…

Back in 1988, New York Fashion Week was the last stop on the international ready-to-wear collections circuit. By the time the traveling caravan of editors, buyers, stylists, and photographers reached their final destination, they had seen it all and were already over it. The hot ticket that year was the Dutch-born designer Ronaldus Shamask, who had landed the coveted opening slot, but the biggest rumor circulating was that modeling’s next big thing, Linda Evangelista, had gotten a career-killing haircut in Paris. Mon dieu! Shamask was to be her first show, and I had an invite. When we took our seats, the electricity in the room could power a Thierry Mugler extravaganza. Would Linda wilt before the front row or thrive like a latter-day Dovima? The stage lights came on, the…

WHERE ARE WE GOING? The whirlwind film festival circuit, which began with Sundance in January and has since gone to Cannes, Venice, and Toronto, marks its grand finale in New York. Heavyweights are de rigueur here. You may catch the latest from Scorsese or Coppola; Todd Haynes’s May December, starring Natalie Portman and Julianne Moore, premieres opening night. SEPTEMBER 29–OCTOBER 15, FILMLINC.ORG WHAT ARE WE WEARING? For modern masters of the universe, there is no holy grail like a Patek. The classic Calatrava, with its sleek lines and pure form, is a horological master class in sotto voce eleganza. The new white gold 6007G comes reinforced with modern details, like a textured black dial and sky blue stitching. It’s as timeless as ever, now with side of cinematic panache.…

“The future of sake is the wine audience,” Richard Geoffroy tells me over dinner at Joji, George Ruan’s omakase restaurant in midtown Manhattan. Geoffroy knows something about the wine audience, having served as head winemaker at Dom Pérignon for 28 years, steering the iconic Champagne brand to new levels of popularity, profitability, and collectibility. When he wasn’t blending and tasting he traveled the world representing Dom Pérignon. Among the countries he visited frequently was Japan, where he fell in love with the culture, the cuisine—and sake, Japan’s traditional, rice-based fermented beverage. As seems often to be the case with Geoffroy, interest blossomed into obsession. He was born in Vertus, a town of 3,000 people in the Côte des Blancs region of Champagne, to a family of grape growers. Rather than…

What defines a fashion designer’s dream job these days? Is it the fame, fortune, and influence of a top gig at a mega–luxury house? Or is it taking on a sleepy brand, doing what you want with it, and then making everyone pay attention? When Julien Dossena was named creative director at Paco Rabanne 10 years ago, the stakes were low. The iconoclastic Rabanne, who died in February at 88, came on the scene in 1966 with a collection, “Manifesto: 12 Un-wearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials,” that shocked Paris, but by the time he walked away in 1999 the label was a stale time capsule. Barbarella, whose costumes Rabanne designed, was no one’s idea of a modern woman. The 30-year-old Dossena was an intriguing hire, snatched from under Nicolas Ghesquière’s…

The Italians have a certain expertise when it comes to artistic interpretations of the seasons. Take the court painter Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s quartet of figurative works depicting spring, summer, fall, and winter, which he offered to the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II in 1569. The ruler loved them so much he commissioned another set (which hangs in the Louvre). See also Manfredi’s Allegory of the Four Seasons and Vivaldi, of course, who published his most famous composition in 1725. Literature too: Italo Calvino dedicated a book of short stories to the theme (Marcovaldo, 1963). Now another example joins the national canon, courtesy of Gucci and its latest high jewelry collection, Allegoria. What might the four seasons look like translated into precious gems and gold? A 226-carat green tourmaline glows with the…

Clara is a mother whose son is a rising senior at an elite private school in Miami. For the past few years, as his peers have been beefing up on extracurriculars and thinking about how best to translate their “passions” into projects that will stand out to college admissions Officers, Clara’s son hasn’t been doing any of those things. And Clara is thrilled. Having watched acceptance rates plummet to the single digits as the cost of college has skyrocketed, Clara’s family is happily resigned to not gunning for the Ivy League and the top 25 schools that most of her peer group sees as the crowning achievement of a gilded high school career. This means that her son is limiting the number of Advanced Placement courses he takes to five…