Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2022 i Town & Country

WHERE ARE WE GOING? John Singer Sargent found fame (and scandal) in the salons of Belle Epoque Paris, but it was in Spain that the portraitist discovered his most divine inspiration. He absorbed the techniques of Velázquez and was enthralled by Spain’s dance and architecture, the people and traditions. He immortalized all of it in 120 works now on view at the National Gallery of Art in DC. THROUGH JAN. 2, NGA.GOV WHAT ARE WE WEARING? Do as the Spanish do and turn a crisp Washington evening into a tapas crawl. Start at José Andrés’s Jaleo for a plate of ibérico, then make stops at Barcelona Wine Bar and Taberna del Alabardero, an institution since 1989. In this town you never know who might be at the next table. An…

It’s one of California’s largest and wealthiest enclaves, but Orange County has never really been a destination for those in search of high culture (unless you consider a certain OG Bravo franchise to be a form of art). Los Angeles is replete with creative behemoths—LACMA, Broad, Dudamel—and San Diego has the sprawling Museum of Contemporary Art, enviably perched over the Pacific and stocked with Warhols and Saint Phalles. “Orange County has 34 cities, yet we’ve been lacking a cultural anchor,” says Heidi Zuckerman, CEO and director of the Orange County Museum of Art, which will become the torchbearer of the region’s splashy artistic upgrade when its new 53,000-square-foot home opens this month on the campus of the Segerstrom Center for the Arts in Costa Mesa. When the Segerstrom family donated…

MOTOWN MUSEUM International travelers began to flock to Aretha Franklin’s hometown decades ago, where the local music scene now rivals that of Nashville or Austin. The Temptations and the Supremes cut their first records at 2648 West Grand Boulevard, which became the Motown Museum in 1985. After a yearlong closure, it reopened its doors this summer and is currently in the midst of a multiphase $50 million expansion. MOTOWNMUSEUM.ORG DETROIT INSTITUTE OF ARTS In 1922 the Detroit Institute of Arts bought a Van Gogh (Self-Portrait, 1887, left), becoming the first public museum in the U.S. to own one of his works. For the 100th anniversary of the acquisition, the DIA opens an exhibition this month featuring 70 of the artist’s masterpieces brought together from around the world. DIA.ORG MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Detroit’s…

I am staring into the heart of an exquisite canvas and leather boot that once caressed the calf of the legendary Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, and I am mesmerized. This rare piece of footwear is on display at the atelier of the bespoke shoemaker Massaro, which is just one of the workshops at 19M, Chanel’s sprawling new campus dedicated to supporting and preserving the artisans whose creations—like this incredible boot—are the essence of haute couture. It’s a beautiful morning in Paris, a few days after the Chanel couture show, and I am visiting the spectacular five-level edifice on the northern edge of the city where the label has gathered 11 of its 40 Métiers d’Art, among them experts in feathers and pleating, embroidery and jewelry, who spend their days perfecting the…

AFRICA—AND ANTARCTICA (in 1 day) No kidding. First, spend five to seven days exploring South Africa’s Garden Route, a 190-mile stretch of shoreline with magnificent Indian Ocean beaches and the marine big five: great white sharks, seals, penguins, dolphins, and whales. November to February is summer here, and Birkenhead House (from the Royal Portfolio Collection) is an elegant base in Hermanus for shark diving and seeing whales breach. Grootbos, a hotel cum nature reserve 30 minutes to the south, is known for its family-friendly marine safaris and botanical tours (and a new florilegium). Then it’s back to your base, Cape Town (stay at art-filled Ellerman House), from which Antarctica specialist White Desert’s “Greatest Day” tour will zip you in five hours via an Airbus A340 to its new Antarctic glamping…

BIG SKY, MONTANA Reputation: Double black diamond terrain. Surprise: The new Montage Big Sky has significantly expanded family and beginner options. On Mountain: Ski European-style after hours with a guide, dine on canard à l’orange at the mountaintop Everett’s 8800, then ski back under starry skies. Off-Piste: Montage Big Sky has its own beginner area, plus a rink, tubing hill, and snow-shoe trails: family heaven. Après: The glass-enclosed Vista Bar in Mountain Village serves craft cocktails with a view of Lone Peak. JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Reputation: Extreme skiing proving ground. Surprise: The backcountry terrain is freestyle snowboarding paradise (and Grand Teton is enchanting dusted with snow). On Mountain: Instant cool parent status when you treat your teens to a day of snowboarding with Shaun White—arranged by Caldera House hotel. Off-Piste: Guests at…

CALENDAR ALERT Culturati don’t need coaxing to visit Vienna. Still, a Basquiat exhibit is at the Albertina through January 8, and the intriguingly titled “Idols & Rivals” runs at the Kunsthistorisches Museum until January 28. And Vienna has a new Rosewood, fabulously located in the heart of the pedestrian district.…

It is easy to forget how poorly Camilla Parker Bowles was thought of when Andrew Morton’s 1992 biography of Princess Diana tore the veil off a marriage that Diana would later describe as “a bit crowded.” Prince Charles’s mistress was derided as a marriage wrecker and, worse, the nemesis—and “frumpy” antithesis—of the woman who would soon be remembered as the people’s princess. Things only got worse a year later, when a secretly recorded, excruciatingly personal booty call between Charles and Camilla confirmed Diana’s worst fears. Camilla’s humiliation was complete; her stock could sink no lower. It is still widely reported that angry women threw bread rolls at her outside a provincial supermarket. They didn’t, but such a scenario was entirely believable. There was froideur inside the firm, too. Camilla had…

COVER BULGARI RING ($7,450), BULGARI.COM. MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION DRESS ($1,950), MICHAELKORS.COM CULTURE WATCH PAGE 38 AUDEMARS PIGUET, AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM. CARTIER, CARTIER.COM. FENDI MEN’S, FENDI.COM. TODD REED, TODDREED.COM THE LAST LAUGH PAGE 86–91 BUCCELLATI, BUCCELLATI.COM. BRUNELLO CUCINEL-LI, BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM. BULGARI, BULGARI.COM. DAVID YUR-MAN, DAVIDYURMAN.COM. JADE SWIM, JADESWIM.COM. KHAITE, KHAITE.COM. LFRANK, LFRANKJEWELRY.COM. MISSONI, MISSONI.COM. MIU MIU, MIUMIU.COM. POLO RALPH LAUREN, RALPH LAU-REN HOME, RALPHLAUREN.COM. ROBERTO COIN, ROBERTOCOIN.COM. VERDURA, VERDURA.COM. VHERNIER, VHERNIER.COM TRANSFER OF POWER PAGE 92–101 ON JIAJIA FEI: SIMONE ROCHA DRESS ($1,925) AND SOCKS ($795), 646-810-4785; ROGER VIVIER LOAFERS ($1,545), ROGERVIVIER.COM; TIFFANY & CO. PEARL BRACELET (WORN AS NECKLACE, $850) AND LARGE BRACELET (WORN AS NECKLACE, $1,250), TIFFANY.COM; HOLLY DYMENT RING ($6,710), MUSEXMUSE.COM. ON ANTWAUN SARGENT: JIL SANDER COAT, PANTS ($3,970), AND SHOES ($1,980), JILSANDER.COM; WALES BONNER JUMPER, WALESBONNER.NET; ANA KHOURI SAPPHIRE AND…

A BALANCED ITINERARY “Hosting at least one meal a day is the right thing to do,” Michelle Rago says. But don’t overschedule. “Give guests time to experience the location.” MAKE IT INCLUSIVE “You can’t ask people to take time off and then not invite them to everything,” Bronson van Wyck says. “No one wants to sit in a hotel room.” HANDLE THE LOGISTICS Paying for guests’ airfare isn’t de rigueur, but “all transportation needs—taxis, Uber codes, buses—to events should be met,” says Jung Lee. ALWAYS BE ON TIME Being fashionably late to your events is in poor taste. “Make sure you’re there to greet guests when they arrive,” Rago says.…

GO DIGITALLY NATIVE Send your save-the-date or any other first communiqué via email. For formal occasions, a hard invitation should follow. PRINT MAKES PERFECT Classic invitations convey the importance of your event. “You don’t want people to assume that it’s a casual wedding,” Lizzie Post says. GET SITE SPECIFIC A wedding website with all the details is a must, if only to avoid reminding your guests endlessly what time the ceremony begins. REPLY ALL No matter how an invitation arrives, don’t forget to RSVP. A response lost in the mail is forgivable. Forgetting to click a link? Not so much.…

In 1950 T&C commissioned Jacques Frank to paint a picture of Hôtel Lambert, one of Paris’s most exquisite mansions. Built in 1643 by Louis le Vau, it had “sheltered the great, been the magnificent background for splendid and brilliant parties.” A rotating cast of high society has called it home, including Voltaire, Mona von Bismarck, the Rothschilds, and, until recently, the Al Thanis, Qatar’s ruling family. They are moving out—a French telecom billionaire bought the residence for $226 million—and so are some 1,300 objets d’art. A stork-shaped candelabra owned by Madame de Pompadour, a silver soup tureen that belonged to Catherine the Great, and a sofa from the Duke and Duchess of Windsor’s Paris residence are among the items that will go up for auction in a five-part sale at…

DAY AUCTIONS, OCTOBER 21–23 EVENING AUCTIONS, OCTOBER 20 ONLINE AUCTIONS, OCTOBER 10–25…

In the world of design, an elite Justice League is turning 10. Its members are contributors to Objets Nomades, Louis Vuitton’s ongoing collection of travel-inspired objects and furniture, and this milestone year they are joined by one of the youngest recruits yet, Frank Chou, 35. The debut of his sleek armchair and sofa for the leather goods leviathan at Milan Design Week trumpeted the arrival of a major new voice on the scene. Fittingly for a line rooted in travel (see “Origin Story,” right), the Beijing-based designer did not conceive his pieces by looking at the furnishings of predecessors like India Mahdavi and Patricia Urquiola. Instead he trained his eye on the fields of Yunnan, China, and the canyons of Arizona’s Antelope Valley, translating their organic layers into creases of…

Sixty-Third Street and Madison Avenue in Manhattan was once a sleepy corner anchored by a Neo-Federal building. But its latest tenant is shaking things up. Opening this month inside the five-story manse are a coffee bar, a champagne bar, a VIP lounge, even a jukebox. Upper East Siders, meet your new cool neighbor: Hermès ! The label has operated two boutiques down the street for years, but its tricked-out palatial flagship joins a revitalized beauty and fashion scene along with a handful of private social clubs in giving the area a much needed face-lift. When satisfied clients descend the shop’s stone stairway (exclusive Kelly in hand, of course) and ride home on a special edition bicycle, they’ll pass several well-heeled newcomers, including Caviar Kaspia at the Mark; a two-story, 12,000-square-foot…

For 50 percent of the world’s population, it’s as inevitable as death and taxes, but until very recently it was even more unspeakable. The mere word—menopause—shush! And the experience? Let’s just say the details were barely shared between mothers and daughters, much less doctors and patients. Now what used to be ominously euphemized as the Change of Life is getting a rebrand. Gwyneth is even posting about it on Instagram. Thanks to a groundswell of female techpreneurs, women’s health advocates, and Gen Xers not content with being written off as a Sex and the City punchline, menopause is very much the word on everyone’s lips. A cursory Google search will yield apps, telehealth platforms, and brands—so many brands—touting everything from herbal remedies to temperature regulating sleepwear to lotions targeting skin…

TAG MARINE PREDATORS IN MOZAMBIQUE Where: &Beyond’s 13-room barefoot luxury lodge on Benguerra Island, in the Indian Ocean’s Bazaruto Archipelago. Activity: With the conservation pioneer’s Impact Journeys, which caters to the philanthropically minded (and families seeking educational trips), you’ll accompany a scientist from South Africa’s Oceanographic Research Institute on two half-day expeditions to tag giant trevally and grey reef sharks, which are linked to coral health. Takeaway: Learn about the effects of climate change on fragile reef ecosystems. (Built-in extras: sailing on a traditional dhow, swimming with horses, dining on Portuguese-influenced seafood under the stars.) STUDY ICY SECRETS IN ALASKA Where: The five-bedroom luxury Sheldon Chalet, just 10 miles from the snowcapped summit of Denali, North America’s highest peak. Activity: The surrounding Ruth Glacier has been receding for years, exposing…

KENYA KINSKI JONES If anyone knows what it means to bring a fresh perspective to a legacy, it’s Kenya Kinski Jones. The 29-year-old Los Angeles–based model comes from show business royalty—her dad is the legendary music impresario Quincy Jones, her mom is the actress Nastassja Kinski—but she isn’t shy about a desire to find success on her own terms. Kinski Jones has made her name as a model, walking the runway for Chanel and Dolce & Gabbana and appearing in campaigns for Stella McCartney and Calvin Klein, but her dreams don’t end at the foot of a catwalk. The aspiring writer, who earned a degree in English from Loyola Marymount University, recently published her first personal essay, and she plans for more to follow soon. “My goal,” she says, “is…

Ballyfin’s owners, Liam and Jay Krehbiel. As a younger man Jay Krehbiel moved from Chicago to New York City to take a job at the management consulting firm Bain & Company, and when he called home for the first time to share his new address, his father, the electronics tycoon Fred Krehbiel, was horrified. “Lexington,” he said, “isn’t that…fringe?” Today Jay tells that story not only to gently roast his late dad but to underscore the family’s most recent accomplishment—one that has taken them much farther east than anyone would ever have imagined. When Fred Krehbiel—who made his fortune in electrical conduits and sold the family business, Molex, to the Koch brothers in 2013 for $7.2 billion—died suddenly in the summer of 2021, he left the bulk of his fortune…

The year my late grandfather Henry H. Arnhold introduced me to The Great Bustard, the most prized object in his collection of Meissen porcelain, I started glassblowing. His mother had begun collecting Meissen in Dresden in the early 1900s, and preserving and expanding her collection was his great passion. Today it’s recognized as the most important private collection of Meissen in the world. At his New York apartment, porcelain was displayed floor to ceiling, wall to wall. Each time I visited, he asked me to pick a favorite. It was always The Great Bustard, a stunning life-size bird with its head delicately curved over its wing. It had belonged to Augustus the Strong, the 18th-century monarch whose patronage made global an ancient Chinese art form. Glassblowing is itself an old…

BE THOUGHTFUL A welcome bag stocked with local treats, drinks, and recovery kits is a must. “It’s a sign of great hospitality,” Jung Lee says. KEEP IT PERSONAL “Planned activities should be what the couple loves to do, so there is a point of view,” Lee says. “Every event should have meaning.” CREATE A SENSE OF PLACE “Always integrate the destination’s music and food, and hire as many creative partners in the area as possible,” Michelle Rago says.…

Historians may debate how dark the Middle Ages actually were, but I think it’s acceptable to say that we have, over the past few years, lived through some version of our own. So if history does in fact repeat itself, up next: the Renaissance? We see evidence of hope. Meet the rising creative aristocracy on page 92—curators, writers, designers, creators, and performers who we believe are leading us into the next era of art. Some you have read about before, some have written what you’ve read, others you may have already seen onstage, on gallery walls, or onscreen, and some names will be new, for now. We salute them and invited their mentors to do the same. It’s the kind of story where we know in years to come we…

To Whom It May Concern: For the potential next wives of men like Rupert Murdoch, it’s important to confront the very real possibility that your tycoon might someday leave you. He’s a wild romantic, too in love with being in love for any real relationship to measure up. So how will you put your life back together when your husband dumps you over email, as Murdoch—who is 91 and not getting any younger—reportedly did recently to Jerry Hall, his fourth wife? This only six years after they wed at Spencer House in London and he tweeted “Feel like the luckiest AND happiest man in world.” Here are some tips. USE YOUR HEAD, NOT YOUR HEART When you get that breakup email, no matter how many sad emojis it contains, do…

“This palazzo shows us classicism as something bold, but even more as something pure, almost abstract. It is at once modern and traditional. Its strength is how it looks backward and forward at the same time.” The architecture critic Paul Goldberger is talking here about a building in Milan called Casa Campanini-Bonomi that is unusual in several ways, not least in that it is now best known for the American who acquired it in 1999: Ralph Lauren. The designer has a gift for making familiar but important architecture signify anew (as he did in 1986 with the Rhinelander mansion in New York, changing retail forever). The 12,000-square-foot Rationalist masterpiece on Via S. Barnaba had until recently served as his Italian headquarters—a showroom more than creative incubator, a place for business…

Silvia Furmanovich’s latest jewelry collection began, as often happens for the designer, with a journey. On a month-long trek across Uzbekistan, the São Paulo native was entranced by craftsmen weaving rugs as light as feathers in the ancient city of Bukhara. “Four men tossed a silk carpet into the air, and as it floated to the ground I envisioned a pair of earrings,” Furmanovich says. While it wasn’t easy to convince the weavers to miniaturize their rugs, her persistence paid off, and richly patterned earrings—and the cuff pictured here—were born. They are now part of her Silk Road collection. “My jewelry is a cross-pollination of traditions,” Furmanovich says. “I love discovering crafts in faraway places that I can show in a contemporary way.” In so doing she’s employing artisans whose…

$28.5M EVERNOW Membership program providing Rx estrogen, with access to female scientists and doctors. Backed by: Gwyneth Paltrow, Cameron Diaz, Drew Barrymore $4.5M KINDRA Supplements powered by botanical Pycnogenol, clinically proven to minimize menopause symptoms. Backed by: Katie Couric Media $3.75M ELEKTRA HEALTH Telehealth network connecting women to “menopause doulas” for 1:1 support. Backed by: Serena Williams’s internet mogul husband, Alexis Ohanian $3.3M ALLOY Online platform facilitating access to HRT and hot flash–mitigating antidepressants. Backed by: Former Marie Claire editor Anne Fulenwider…

ESENCIA MANSION, MEXICO A Hollywood producer transformed an Italian duchess’s tropical home on the Riviera Maya into Hotel Esencia, one of Mexico’s most exclusive beach boltholes. Its VVIP clientele can now hide away even more discreetly in this villa. Location: A jungly corner of the 50-acre estate only a five-minute walk from the white sands of Xpu-Ha beach, the spa, and the gourmet tacos served at Mistura. Layout: 12,000 square feet on four levels, with four suites (each with a terrace with a hammock), a fitness studio, a rooftop terrace with ocean views, and three pools. Wow Factor: A secret entrance leads to an underground speakeasy-style bar, fully stocked and outfitted with a DJ booth, which is staffed on request. SOPRIS HOUSE, ASPEN A former family ranch, Aspen Valley, opened…

Bail \ bāl \ To fall spectacularly. Bluebird \ blū berd \ A cloud-free day. Couloir \ kūl ̀wahr \ A steep and narrow gully usually surrounded by rocks. Face shot \ fās shŏt \ Snow-covered face and goggles from throwing up so much powder with your skis. Full send \ fuhl send \ Bravely going all out on a run. Huck \ hŭk \ To launch off a cliff or jump and get major air time. Knuckle dragger \ ̀nŭk- l ̀drăg-r \ Epithet for a snowboarder. Pillow line \ ̀pil-ō līn \ A linked series of boulders covered in deep snow. Steeze \ stēz \ Effortless style on the slopes.…

In the fall of 2019, Brennan Vincent was a junior at Mamaroneck High School. Located in the groaningly wealthy suburbs of New York City, Mamaroneck is a top-ranked public school where, during college admissions season, “everyone’s competitive, trying to get into the same five schools,” Vincent said recently. Indeed, during Vincent’s junior year it was a given that her peers hired independent college counselors and worked with essay coaches to pave the way to acceptance letters from Cornell, Brown, and other top-rated schools, most of which are located in the Northeast. “It was a ‘Who do you know?’ or ‘Who do you know who knows someone?’ type of thing.” The process, Vincent says, was affecting her friends’ mental health, and she was vehemently turned off. So when her father, who…

In March 2020, Peter Beard disappeared into the woods near his Montauk home and, like an old bull elephant, lay down and died (the sort of end, his friends pointed out, he would have wanted). But the fascination with Beard continues, fueled by the expansiveness and contradictions of his life, the ferment around his artistic legacy, and our age old interest in the mysteries of creative inspiration and the lines—so blurred in Beard’s case—between life and art. As Philippe Garner, former head of international photography at Christie’s, put it, “The world doesn’t seem to create characters like that anymore. There’s no room for them now. He was a wonderful spirit. An adventurer. A wild man. And if you bought a Peter Beard, you were buying part of that extraordinary story.”…

LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24–OCTOBER 23 Your birthday month is naturally a time of reassessing and reprioritizing. And with Pluto beginning to move forward at the base of your solar chart, you will now be able to formulate the kinds of plans that set you on a more secure track. Let others figure out their issues; focus on your own destiny. Don’t postpone pending legal matters, either. Now is the time to act. RAY GRIFFITHS ($7,890), RAYGRIFFITHS.COM SCORPIO OCTOBER 24–NOVEMBER 22 You may need to do some thoughtful probing in October, but much will come clear as the month winds down. If you need to let go of something—or someone—from the past, it’s a matter of having more faith in your own fortune and scrapping what’s untenable. No worries: Jupiter will soon…