Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2015 i Town & Country

STYLE ICONS T&C’s editors weigh in on the epitomes of American style. Lauren Hutton and Paul Newman made the cut, of course. See who else did. ART HEISTS New clues emerge, 25 years later, about a $500 million theft that left Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum short 13 master-pieces, including this Vermeer. PLANET DONALD What’s it like to spend a week at Trump restaurants, hotels, and golf courses? Plus, a colorful 1983 profile from our archives, and everything you need to know about the Donald.…

KLARA GLOWCZEWSKA T&C’s travel editor at large describes her trip with Uma Thurman to South Africa and Botswana in our cover story, “Africa’s Ark” (page 158), as “the most adrenalinefueled experience ever—we were snuggling up to sedated wild rhinos and hearing tales of near-death mishaps. I’ll never forget one guide’s piece of advice: ‘You’re not in trouble when a lion roars. You’re in trouble when he’s silent.’ ” MARY KARR “Anybody with an inner life as big as Lake Superior can grasp how memories, over time, morph as the self—the filter through which you interpret—morphs,” Karr says. Her Manners & Misdemeanors column, “What Lies Beneath” (page 136), is adapted from her new book, The Art of Memoir, which contains wisdom from 30 years of teaching. “Every memoirist swimming in those…

Back in the early 1980s, when I was a model in Paris, there were a few great discotheques we liked to hit: Le Palace, L’Apocalypse, Régine’s, Castel’s. They were chic and shiny, filled with colognedrenched playboys and bejeweled jetsetters grooving to Michael Jackson, Rick James, and Kool & the Gang. But on the other side of town, in the rundown neighborhood of Les Halles, there was this multistory former public bathhouse from the 19th century that a then-unknown French interior designer named Philippe Starck had turned into a dance club called Les Bains Douches. We’d arrive around 11, dolled up in our sexiest Alaïa, and cruise past the fierce gatekeeper for dinner upstairs, where we’d find ourselves next to regulars such as Roman Polanski, Yves Saint Laurent, or Mick Jagger…

* PAINT in NUMBERS Kean Etro commissioned artists from Como to decorate his fall menswear collection. Tweed, ponyhair, and corduroy suits were brushed with paisleys and brocades for a trompe l’oeil effect. COLOR Scheming How to ensure that no one shows up at the party in the same dress. J. Mendel’s new Modern Heirloom collection comprises eight of the house’s most beloved styles from the past decade, and they’re available for custom order in any color. “Each of the gowns has a timeless beauty that’s just as appealing today as when it first went down the runway,” says creative director Giles Mendel, who selected the greatest hits. All are created at the brand’s New York City atelier, including the Chloe gown (above). Fashion stylist and florist Taylor Tomasi Hill had…

Anyone who has walked past the corner of 64th and Madison and longed, with deep nostalgia, for a 1940s gold cuff from Demner, the antique jewelry store that was there for more than 20 years, should keep going uptown. Natascha Demner has just opened an appointment-only salon in the same neighborhood, with a sensibility as refined as that of her family’s beloved gallery. She’s joined in the endeavor by Italian jeweler Antonia Miletto, whose bold designs—brightly colored fish rings and exotic woods mixed with diamonds are trademarks—were also sold at the original store. Since its closing, in 2007, Demner has been raising a family and Miletto has been showing her work at her store in Venice. (It remains open— and don’t trust a Venice itinerary that doesn’t stop inside its…

FOR ADDITIONAL READINGS BY KATHARINE MERLIN, GO TO TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24–OCTOBER 23 Serena Williams It’s your birthday, and a complex time regarding your choices and options. At least with Mercury shifting direction on the 9th, you’ll be getting a clearer view of what lies ahead. With Mars, Venus, and Jupiter in the most introspective angle of your chart, give yourself a break and carve out some much deserved private time. Aspects occurring near the 24th point to breakthroughs and reconciliations that set you on a new path. ARIES MARCH 21–APRIL 20 Jessica Chastain When clashes of will occur this month, try not to overreact. Uranus in your sign intensi-fies your urge to be true to yourself, but the Sun in Libra is also telling you to calm down and…

Last July, at the end of a Friday afternoon, Frank Gehry landed at Barnstable Municipal Airport, on Cape Cod, accompanied by his son Alejandro and his friend Bobby Shriver. The group drove straight to the Kennedy compound in Hyannis Port, and there the architect first saw her, anchored a little offshore. A crowd had gathered, since, as Gehry says, “Hyannis Port is a real sailing community,” and because Foggy, whose name (based on an acronym for Frank Owen Gehry) had been etched in Gehry’s sloping scrawl onto its stern, is a sloop like no other. Fashioned out of traditional larch wood but accented with titanium and a glass latticework that glimmers like a school of fish, she looked schizophrenic, a hybrid of past and future. Gehry boarded an inflatable tender…

MIONETTO Mionetto, the innovative Italian sparkling house, adds Prestige Gran Rosé Extra Dry to its portfolio. Mionetto, known for its best-selling Prosecco Brut, has been making wines since 1887 in Valdobbiadene, in the heart of the Prosecco region. These sparkling wines are available in several sizes including 187ml, 750ml and 1.5L to add sparkle to any occasion. Visit Mionetto online for food pairings, cocktail recipes and entertaining tips. For more information, please visit mionettoproseccousa.com. BELLARRI BELLARRI’s stunning ‘Tango Collection’ features this magnificently designed bangle. Brilliant, bullet cut blue topaz is accented with lustrous Iolite side stones and set with sparkling diamonds in 18-karat rose gold. BELLARRI… for the woman who desires to be simply exceptional. For more information, please visit bellarri.com. NEXXUS NEW YORK SALON CARE Infused with a rich…

Kathryn O’Shaughnessy and Christopher Denny-Brown—they go by Kate and Chris—first met as Yale undergraduates in the fall of 2006, when she was a freshman and he was a senior on the football team. But they didn’t begin dating until two years later. In autumn 2013, after a mostly longdistance relationship that spanned the globe—from Sydney to San Francisco, Mumbai to Morocco—Kate and Chris became engaged in what she calls “handsdown the best proposal of all time.” While pretending to be on a business trip, Chris called in Kate’s best friends from around the country to New York. They took her to brunch and delivered the first clue to a scavenger hunt around the city that ended at her parents’ apartment. She was then given a packed overnight bag and an…

“Passionate discipline and disciplined passion” is how the husband-andwife team of Jesse Carrier and Mara Miller describe their approach to interiors, with the results on glorious display in Carrier and Company: Positively Chic Interiors (Vendome Press, $60). The book (written with Judith Nasatir, with a foreword by Anna Wintour, a repeat client) offers ample evidence of the duo’s knack for creating glamorous, comfortable rooms, regardless of period style. One of their best quotes: “Timelessness is the love child of modern and traditional.” The legendary Dorothy Draper, another interior decorator who had a way with words, once likened eating to an indoor sport, adding, “it’s well worthwhile to make the game as pleasant as possible.” Case in point: The Draper Café Side Chair from Kindel—created in 1945 for Draper’s kaleidoscopic redecoration…

SHOES FOSTER & SON 83 Jermyn Street, London T H E L E G E N D The firm goes back to 1840. T H E L O O K Classic English. Clients should set aside an hour when ordering so their feet can be measured and assessed, models can be discussed, and the peripheral choices of toe and instep shape, available leathers, heel height, and sole thickness can be attended to. G.J. CLEVERLEY 13 Royal Arcade, London THE LEGEND George J. Cleverley made beautiful shoes until the day he died, in 1991 at age 92. He taught his craft and art to his student George Glasgow, who in turn taught his son George Jr. T H E L O O K The chisel-toe designed by the master is still…

“I want to make pieces that respect the properties of each individual stone,” says jeweler and gemologist Tito Pedrini. In this pursuit Pedrini has put aside his ready-to-wear jewelry collection to focus solely on one-of-a-kind pieces. “With a collection, stones have to be uniform. Now I can look at each one and set it fully using my expertise.” Liberated from the pressure to produce multiples, Pedrini can also experiment with a large piece of malachite and turn it into a geometric fantasy of a ring he calls the Futuristico, or take an enormous spherical carnelian and make a ring so big he’s not sure it can even be worn. “But,” he says, “I love it.”…

Recently a team of American and Dutch researchers studied the purchasing habits of women. They found that although they may happily pick a bouquet of flowers or a fantastic book for a friend based on something they themselves love, they do the opposite when it comes to perfume: If women like a scent, they won’t buy it for someone else. It’s not so much a desire to sabotage as it is a wish to create an aromatic identity that’s as individual as, well, the individual. And it’s all the more reason to go on the perfume hunt alone, with your senses as your keenest guide. The fall fragrance library certainly offers a wide range of options, from Azzedine Alaïa’s and Miu Miu’s olfactory debuts to updated versions of feminine classics…

THE FACIALIST Mallory Hamilton Aesthetician Hamilton plies her trade in a blush-pink room at Woo Skincare + Cosmetics, a one-stop Music City shop for beauty brands both classic (Bobbi Brown, Giorgio Armani) and cult (Rodin, Tata Harper). Rock star wives and musicians, including singersongwriter Hillary Lindsey, come in for Hamilton’s confident approach, with treatments like the HydraFacial ($200), a four-step process that’s a gentler alternative to microdermabrasion, and the Collagen Facial ($150), which combines a topical collagen gel with hyaluronic acid. JAO GOE OIL ($48) AND THE WELLNESS GURU McKel Hill A town in which mac-and-cheese counts as a vegetable might seem like an odd home base for Hill (below), the registered dietician turned social media superstar behind the Nutrition Stripped website. Yet the clientele for her signature one-on-one health…

“ONLY IF WE UNDERSTAND CAN WE CARE. ONLY IF WE CARE WILL WE HELP. ONLY IF WE HELP SHALL THEY BE SAVED. ” —Jane Goodall We have been driving for a half hour along a rutted, sandy path in Timbavati Game Reserve, a private conservancy within South Africa’s Greater Kruger National Park. All around us stretches yellowing early winter grassland dotted with acacia trees and thorn bushes, the so-called lowveld of northeastern Limpopo Province. I’m riding shotgun, squeezing between my feet an open container bristling with bottles, syringes, and vials of potent veterinary drugs, as well as a pulse oximeter, for monitoring the vital signs of rhinoceroses. In the very back of the Land Cruiser truck, standing next to a spare tire, coils of thick rope, and a four-foot-long dart…

The Hawaiian island of Kauai is one of the wettest places on earth; the weather can cycle through sun and showers a few times a day. But that suits Chan Luu just fine. “I love dramatic weather,” she says. “I couldn’t ask for a better place for that.” In fact, Kauai is her definition of heaven, and with the help of Los Angeles architects Johnston Marklee, the Vietnamese-born designer has created both stimulant and sanctuary, a place to recharge and inspire her highly refined craft-based jewelry, accessories, and clothing. “It’s recreating my comfort zone,” Luu says of the strikingly modern yet homey sixacre hilltop retreat on the island’s north shore, where she can indulge her passions for cooking, organic gardening, surfing, and painting. Laurie David, an environmental activist and film…

A SURREAL CONNECTION I was recently shown a beautiful Salvador Dalí painting entitled Autumno that I discovered was a commission by the Hearst Corporation in 1946 and used as the cover of that year’s October edition of Town & Country. This was fascinating to me, as the magazine would have played an extremely important role in giving Dalí exposure to some of the wealthiest people in the country—T&C’s core readership, both then and now. The early ’40s were the artist’s most important years in the U.S.: He would establish himself as a household name with an exhibition at New York’s MoMA, the release of his autobiography, his work on Alfred Hitchcock’s film Spellbound, and this cover. I congratulate Town & Country for its foresight in supporting an artist who was…

Fine art photographer Catherine Opie has long been a fan of William Eggleston’s 1984 project “Graceland,” a guided tour of Elvis Presley’s Memphis home. “I thought, What a fantastic thing to do,” Opie says, “because it was this extension of a portrait, and how we view a person’s life.” She was thinking about who her Presley might be when a coincidental relationship offered her access to Elizabeth Taylor: The two shared an accountant. Taylor also happened to be “my mother’s favorite star,” Opie says. “We watched National Velvet countless times.” Taylor grew up at MGM in the glory days of the studio, and she understood that, in many ways, she belonged to the world. She thus vigilantly guarded the little privacy she had. Her California-style ranch house in Bel-Air was…

If you build a Fendi bag from scratch (yes, you can do it, by appointment in select stores) you can cover it in teal ostrich or rainbow python, or plate it in 14K gold. Monograms can be hand-painted, engraved, or embroidered. The possibilities are endless—as is, for some, the wait. A custom Fendi can take up to nine months to reach its owner. For those in search of instant gratification, this season the brand is launching a strap bar in stores. Nine varieties in different colors and finishes will be sold separately; they’re designed to clip onto most Fendi bags. Initials can be embossed on-site. Sarah Bray * DIY CUSTOM With hand-painted monograms taking weeks to turn around and family crests centuries to establish, Anya Hindmarch’s letter and symbol stickers…

Inspiration images abound: Sophia Loren with a huge sapphire Bulgari ring on her finger, Monica Vitti in emeralds and diamonds, Marisa Berenson in gold. There is also, of course, more than a century of color, cocktail rings, and cabochon cuts to draw on. All will be of help when clients are introduced this month to Bulgari’s B Ring Program, which gives jewelry lovers an opportunity to create semicustom pieces of their own. Imagine the gemmaking kit of your dreams: Three different unset Bulgari rings are offered—a thick white gold band with turquoise inlay, another in pink gold with mother-of-pearl, and a third in yellow gold with opal. Once a setting is chosen, faceted and cabochon-cut stones are presented: peridot, amethyst, rubellite, pink tourmaline, and blue topaz. Then the games begin.…

On our last day in Mombo, two guests at the camp who had viewed the landing of the C-130 and the unloading and release of the rhinos into the wild handed Wilderness Safaris CEO Keith Vincent a check for $50,000, to go, via the Wilderness Wildlife Trust, to Rhino Conservation Botswana (which Map Ives directs). “I am immediately purchasing another rhino and bringing it here,” said Vincent. “Without our guests, we would not have the funds to do all that we’ve done.” Not all of us, of course, can be that generous. But if you can, such a donation will enable you to participate in a trip much like the one described here, with rhino capture and monitoring and, if possible, a release. For details, go to TOWNANDCOUNTRY MAG.COM/LEISURE/RHINO-RESCUE-TRIP, or…

If Marie Kondo’s book The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up has taught us anything, it’s that pruning one’s possessions helps organize the mind. But when you’re a clotheshorse for whom each sartorial element brings a fizzing sense of joy, there is pleasure in having options. And what better way to assess them than on a valet stand, a design relic that gives focus and form to an ensemble. It is where one turns to ready a crisp jacket and trousers, and to choose the right accessories for a particular occasion. But it has merit as a decorative object, too, as a kind of mood board that reveals clues to the dandy behind the pocket square and the rich, rich world beyond the hanger.…