Innholdsfortegnelse for June - July 2015 i Town & Country

1949 SLIM DUNK The perennially best dressed Nancy “Slim” Hayward (later Lady Keith and, like Babe Paley and C.Z. Guest, one of Truman Capote’s “swans”) shows T&C readers how to wear Charles James, “America’s first couturier” and the subject of a long overdue retrospective last year at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Harvey Weinstein bought the designer’s name shortly thereafter, and rumors of a revival have been swirling ever since.…

APPROVAL RATINGS “I’ve told Hillary that I don’t think I’m good [at campaigning] anymore because I’m not mad at anybody,” Bill Clinton told Klara Glowczewska in “Raising Haiti,” our May cover story. “I got to see my granddaughter last night, and I can’t be mad.” The article garnered an unprecedented amount of attention thanks to Clinton’s of-the-cuff remarks about his wife’s presidential run (which was officially announced less than a week after the story was published). Outlets as diverse as the Today show, Women’s Wear Daily, the Washington Post, and New York magazine jumped on his first public comments about how involved he’d get in Hillary’s campaign. One reader accused us of attempting to capitalize on the upcoming election: “To tout his foundation and so blatantly slant the whole article…

ARTS & CULTURE Through April 16, 2016 Please Touch the Art Approach Danish artist Jeppe Hein’s interactive installations throughout Brooklyn Bridge Park with memories of Christo’s 2005 Central Park orange draperies in your mind. June 4–7 Greenwich International Film Festival The launch of a philanthropic fest: All proceeds go to UNICEF. May 27 American Ballet Theatre, Giselle Be there for Paloma Herrera’s farewell matinee performance July 13 Hamilton If you didn’t get tickets for its sold-out run at the Public Theater, word is you’ll need more than luck to get a pair for the Broadway run of the hip-hop musical about the life of the man on the $10 bill. June 8–12 Dita Von These Visitors to the Canyon Ranch spa in Tucson who are tired of spin and Zumba…

“Fendi is fur; fur is Fendi.” Karl Lagerfeld’s defining statement is quoted so often it might as well be on a (mink) Fendi T-shirt. And as he marks 50 years of designing for the company—currently the longest collaboration in fashion—the phrase will likely find its way into the book celebrating the union. The retrospective Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld (Steidl) chronicles the history of the partnership largely through Lagerfeld’s sketches. Some are simple lines: a self-portrait, an outline of an image of the five Fendi sisters. Others are more elaborate realizations of signature pieces from Fendi collections past. The 30-minute video accompanying the book is a one-on-one Q&A session with Lagerfeld, in his trademark glasses and cut-of leather gloves, with a goblet of Diet Coke at his side. “Can you draw…

EUROPEAN TRANSPLANT GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN BOOTS ($2,395), 212-650-0455 ALTUZARRA DRESS ($1,595, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE.COM), BLAZER ($1,795, GEORGEC.CA), AND SHOES ($1,295, NET-APORTER.COM) CALVIN KLEIN POUCH ($995), 212-292-9000 COOL GIRL WITH TRUST FUND CHANEL BAG ($2,900), 800-550-0005 DAVID YURMAN EARRINGS ($23,000), DAVID YURMAN.COM J. MENDEL MOTORCYCLE JACKET ($10,900), 212-832-5830 BURBERRY PRORSUM DRESS ($2,995), BURBERRY .COM PARK AVENUE BOHEMIAN MONIQUE PEAN NECKLACE ($16,700), MONIQUE PEAN.COM NANCY GONZALEZ BAG ($4,300), NEIMAN MARCUS.COM ETRO HEELS ($1,033), ETRO.COM NARCISO RODRIGUEZ DRESS ($1,895), BARNEYS NEW YORK, 888-8-BARNEYS UNDERSTATED ONE-PERCENTER GIORGIO ARMANI COAT ($4,295), pants ($1,445), and bag ($3,095), ARMANI.COM BURBERRY PRORSUM DRESS ($2,995), BURBERRY.COM ROCHAS bag ($1,765), ROCHAS.COM FERNANDO JORGE RING ($5,900), latest REVIVAL.COM LANVIN shoes ($1,185), 646-439-0380…

SUMMER STOCK ALL MANNER OF JEWELRY…

MAKEUP The practice of contouring one’s face—shading jawlines and cheekbones with powder or cream a shade or two darker than the natural skin tone, and highlighting in the opposite direction—has gone fom being a technique used by professional artists to one employed by any woman with a brush and access to an online tutorial (check out Lisa Eldridge and Charlotte Tilbury’s videos). But the newly discovered trick has its origins in a perennial beauty staple: bronzer. Deep copper powders and liquid gels make us all look a little more well-rested, a little more sculpted, a little more sun-kissed. And no matter the format, there is no better—or healthier—way to get a tan. Jamie Rosen…

THIS MONTH’S DESTINATION: THE PHARMACY Helia-D During the communist era, Hungarians were confined to using a limited selection of local beauty products, one of which was Helia-D. Luckily, the sunflower-based line actually worked, and women—including Hungarian-born actress Zsa Zsa Gabor—fell in love with its ability to restore the skin’s elasticity. The utilitarian black jars can still be found in drugstores throughout Budapest, and their contents ($4 for the Nourishing Cleansing Milk; $5.50 for moisturizer) still work wonders. ATPHARMACIES THE SPAS Public Baths Budapest has more thermal springs than any other capital city. The medicinal waters, which are known for healing ills ranging from acne to arthritis, are housed in public buildings so magnificent it feels as if you’re soaking in a cathedral, all for less than $20 a day. Among…

For additional readings by Katharine Merlin, go to toWnandcountrymag.com GEMINI MAY 22–JUNE 21 Bob Dylan Mars in your sign charges you with purpose in June. And once Mercury changes direction on the 11th, you must decide where you’re headed. Additionally, Venus in Leo rewards speaking from the heart in all situations—right through July, which will be a time of blissful getaways. It will also be a period when you can forge valuable contacts that will affect your future. You’re likely to have reason to ponder your choices and re assess financial arrangements. CANCER JUNE 22–JULY 22 Live Tyler June appears to be a time when you may become entangled in others’ issues and difficulties, so try to step back and observe. The accent is on laying the groundwork for activities…

ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL RECOMMENDED SHIPS Oasis and Allure of the Seas. BEST FOR Families, especially ones with older children. A huge part of the appeal of these vessels is the outdoor component. (The Oasis and Allure are the two largest cruise ships in the world—each carries more than 6,000 passengers— but they manage to feel uncrowded.) There’s the “park at sea,” which is laced with trees (birdsong is piped in) and cafés. The ships also have an entire neighborhood dedicated to a boardwalk vibe, with a carousel, candy shops, and eateries. BEST SUITES The two-bedroom Aqua Theater Suites, in which the balconies alone are almost the size of the 750-square-foot staterooms. DON’T MISS Alfesco dining and cocktails at the ships’ Central Park “neighborhoods.” And the surf simulator and the Zipline—which…

In summer—and in life generally, as noted elsewhere—the very best things are free. Sunshine, rolling waves, and lazy afternoons on the beach are all simply there for the taking. The next best things, the ones that do cost money—too often lots of it—are not so simple. That’s where we come in.…

Deep in the wild woods of the Hamptons, Eric Ripert, a three-Michelin-star chef, carefully fans the wood and charcoal buried in his outdoor grill until its color matches his salt-and-pepper hair. He places a slab of slate on top of the coals, ready to sear a piece of meat for his casual dinner party. Ripert’s restaurant, Le Bernardin, has held on to a four-star rating from the New York Times longer than any restaurant in Manhattan. Presumably, when it comes to making a summer dinner for fiends in jeans, Ripert knows what he’s doing. As guests arrive, he notices that the men, mostly accomplished types like himself, surround the grill, drinks in hand, a little too interested. “They like to come close to me and check out what I’m doing.…

Though both Liz Manley and Sam Epstein were raised in Connecticut and now live in New York City, when it came time to pick a spot for their August nuptials, the Ranch at Rock Creek, in Philipsburg, Montana, was a no-brainer. The resort has served as Liz’s family’s home away from home since her father, investment banker Jim Manley, bought it in 2007. After Liz and Sam began dating, in 2009 (he followed her out of the West Village dive bar Automatic Slim’s and persuaded her to go on a date), they took their first trip there for New Year’s Eve, and the property became Sam’s second home, too. “It’s a total escape from life in New York City that makes you feel as if you’re at camp for adults,”…

Michael Aram A noted American sculptor, Michael Aram dreams in metal. For over twenty-five years, the designer has honed his craft to create sculpted designs for Michael Aram Home, capturing the beauty, significance, and whimsy of nature. Like his celebrated decorative arts collection, Michael Aram jewelry is created with age-old techniques, imbued with a soulful quality that reflects the hand of the artist. The designer invites you to enter an enchanted world where twigs entwine wrists, vines caress fingers and feathers take flight on ears. Earrings make every sound sweeter. Bracelets deepen every embrace. Metals glisten, gems explode with brilliance. Inspired objects, his jewelry expresses the refined sensibilities of the extraordinary women who wear them. Carelle Carelle’s latest collections capture the dynamic spirit of the modern woman, defining the balance…

It’s not explicitly mentioned in the Joycean canon, but there is certainly no rule against wearing a bloom for the annual celebration of the author’s life and work known as Bloomsday, June 16. Scholarly research on proper formal methodology abounds. An 18th-century portrait by François Boucher depicts fesh fowers bunched on top of hair worn tightly pulled back. Images of Anjelica Huston from the 1970s display a preference for one big bloom behind the ear. (In certain cultures a flower behind the right ear indicates unmarried status.) But the latest—and, for the purposes of this column, most relevant— research is drawn from Prada’s fall 2015 show, at which Guido Palau fixed plastic flower pins to the sides of high ponytails. Let’s say, for argument’s sake, you were to replace the…

THE RAD REPELLENT While on their honeymoon in Southeast Asia, Melissa and Michael Fensterstock encountered an abundance of mosquitoes— and a local cure to combat them. Aromafage, the fine fragrance company they founded upon returning home, employs essential oils that are proven insect repellents. Aromafage Wild ($65, shopterrain.com) contains geranium, cedarwood, and lemongrass oils and performed as well as a hardcore DEET formula in lab tests. THE TOUCH-UPS New sunscreen-infused face mists are designed to be sprayed over makeup, even on days when you’re not actively seeking sun. Coola SPF 30 Organic Makeup Setting Spray ($36, COOLASUNCARE.COM) relies on hya luronic acid to plump and hydrate; antioxidant-rich Supergoop Defense Refresh Setting Mist SPF 50 ($28, SEPHORA.COM) leaves skin with a lightweight matte finish. THE POWER PROTECTOR Biologique Recherche’s latest collection…

ALBERTO COLLECTIONS This exquisite 14-karat white gold pendant has a 2-carat oval tanzanite center stone surrounded by .25-carats of diamonds. Suspended from a 14-karat chain, the pendant is another one of Alberto’s magnificently designed pieces. A premiere designer of colored diamonds and gemstone jewelry, this is just one of their unique pieces that can be worn day or night. For more information, please visit albertocollections.com. PASQUALE BRUNI Bon Ton, the iconic collection by Pasquale Bruni, is enriched with new colors and emotions thanks to seductive calchedonies, loved by ancient peoples and noblewomen for their beauty, positive influence and charm. The Carnelian, Chalcedony and Agate come alongside the delicacy of pink, milky and fumé quartz, and the diamond pave versions. The gem is characterized by the shape of a flower with…

CRYSTAL CRUISES RECOMMENDED SHIPS Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity. BEST FOR Traditional travelers who prefer a relatively formal cruise experience. Holding around 1,000 passengers, these ships are the largest in the category, and they ofter top-notch dining and service. Children’s programs on some also make them appealing for multigenerational groups. BEST SUITE The 1,345-square-foot (including veranda) Crystal Penthouse has around-the clock butler service, but what really puts it over the top is its lavish master bathroom, which has a flotation tub set under a gigantic porthole. DON’T MISS Silk Road, the only cruise ship outpost of the Nobu chain. There are endless workshops: on digital photography and filmmaking, painting, sculpture, magic—you name it. And Crystal is the rare cruise line that offers voluntourism-themed shore excursions. CAVEAT Crystal’s ships, particularly the…

PONANT RECOMMENDED SHIPS The fleet includes four virtually identical expedition vessels: the 264- passenger L’Austral, Le Boréal, Le Soleal, and Le Lyrial. BEST FOR Travelers who want to explore exotic places and prefer an intimate, sophisticated ship. Ponant expedition voyages go to destinations like Russia’s Kuril Archipelago, Indonesia, the Cape Verde Islands, and Melanesia. BEST SUITE The Owner’s Suite, which is nearly 600 square feet (including a double-width balcony) and offers butler service. DON’T MISS Changes in itinerary. The top deck is stocked with Zodiacs for up-close exploration, so don’t be surprised if the captain deviates from the plan to show you the unexpected. On a recent voyage around Indonesia, a sail-by of the Krakatoa volcano was enhanced by an impromptu landing on the island and a hike up to…

“I’m never sure how long I’m supposed to look at it,” says Jennifer Connelly, voicing a common concern when faced with a particularly austere piece of conceptual art. We are at the Guggenheim’s retrospective of the late Japanese artist On Kawara, the centerpiece of which is a series of paintings meticulously recording the day’s date in acrylic, starting with September 20, 1966, when Kawara started his series, and ending in 2013, the year before he died. You can tell a lot about a person from the way she views art. Is she a grazer? A fitter? Does she approach the work head-on, or sidle in shyly from the side? Connelly alternates between lightly engaged skimming and bursts of fierce concentration. One series fascinates her in particular: a selection of 111…

SEA SHELLS Once upon a time, a shell collection was a mark of wealth. Spices may have been the cash cow of the Dutch East India Company, but it also made a pretty penny sending nautilus shells back to Europe, where they were placed in the curiosity cabinets of merchants or strewn among blooms in the paintings of Dutch masters. (Tis tableau, arranged by New York florist Putnam & Putnam, would no doubt have inspired the likes of Balthasar van der Ast.) Now adays shells don’t telegraph big bank accounts (unless they’re encrusted with diamonds and sapphires and sold by Verdura), but they nevertheless still come with bragging rights. Where did you find that perfectly preserved conch: On a private stretch of beach that came with the quaint little eight-bedroom…

R. S. V. P. In April, at the Longines Global Champions season opener in Miami (the tour’s only stop in the U.S.), all eyes were on show jumper Jessica Springsteen—including those of her parents. The 23-year-old, who graduated from Duke last spring, had one of the biggest wins of her career last September, at the American Gold Cup CSI4*-W. At that point she had already signed on to join Charlotte Casiraghi as a Gucci equestrian ambassador. This past February she took top prize at Florida’s Winter Equestrian Festival in Palm Beach, an event she has been participating in since she was 10. Now her sights are set on the 2016 Rio Olympics and, it seems, on her rumored boyfriend, Argentine polo player Nick Roldan. Her success is payoff for her…

VANESSA TRAINA The fashion consultant and muse is known for infusing classics with a sharply modern sensibility. Here, an otherwise prim white skirt gets the Traina treatment. ANYA ZIOUROVA Any woman who wears a white suit risks comparison with Bianca Jagger. Ziourova, fashion director and street style pro, adds a strong dose of black to head of the suggestion. The rules about wearing white have become so irrelevant it seems clichéd to even bring them up. But while a season’s palette is no longer grounded in strict dictates, there are still matters to consider. An all-white ensemble can be seen as an overly enthusiastic endorsement of summer’s arrival. Black details (like a grosgrain bow on a loafer), leopard accessories, and textures like lace or croc punctuate the statement more appropriately.…

Beach SUPPLIES Some emporiums capture an ethos. Here are four that are about the joys of an endless summer.…

It’s quiet in the Lesage workroom the day before the Chanel Haute Couture show. The century-old embroidery house, now owned by Chanel, has completed its hand worked flourishes on the collection, per Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches— including one dress that took 2,200 hours. The denouement gives the master embroiderers an opportunity to begin their next project, one that is smaller in scale if not ambition: a limited edition collection of Lesage watches, to debut in September. The dials exhibit the icons the company is known for: a star, a camellia, elements of a coromandel screen. And, for the first time, each has been hand-sewn onto silk by the same artisans who work on the couture pieces. Watch dials presented particular challenges, says Nicolas Beau, international director of Chanel Watches: “A dial…

ALASKA George Walton’s Gold and Diamond Co. 4300 Old Seward Hwy. Anchorage 907.562.2571 gwgoldanddiamond.com ARIZONA Molina Fine Jewelers 3134 E. camelback rd. Phoenix 602.955.1634 molinafnejewelers.com ARKANSAS Roberson’s Fine Jewelry 11525 Cantrell Rd. Suite 703 Little Rock 501.664.9000 robersonsfnejewelry.com CALIFORNIA Amir H. Mozaffarian 155 Post St. San Francisco 415.391.9995 amirhmozaffarian.com Black, Starr & Frost 341 Bayside Dr. Newport Beach 949.673.1771 blackstarrfrost.com CH Premier Jewelers 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd. Suite 1251 Santa Clara 408.983.2688 chpremier.com CJ Charles 1135 Prospect St. La Jolla 858.454.5390 cjcharles.com Gearys Beverly Hills 351 N. Beverly Dr. Beverly Hills 310.273.4741 gearys.com Peter Norman Jewelers 11640 San Vicente Blvd. Los Angeles 310.820.8787 peternorman.com Shreve & Co. 200 Post St. San Francisco 415.421.2600 shreve.com Westime* 8569 W. Sunset Blvd. West Hollywood 310.289.0808 westime.com Wilkes Bashford* 450 Stanford Shopping Center Palo…

CULTURE CLASH Of all the harsh words written by expatriate Americans about their motherland, Edith Wharton’s inflict the sharpest sting: “What a horror it is for a whole nation to be developing without the sense of beauty and eating bananas for breakfast,” she wrote to her fiend Sara Norton in 1904. Two years later Wharton had abandoned her disappointing country for the classier shores of France. Thirteen years after that, from the bombed-out ruins of World War I, Wharton went public with French Ways and Their Meaning, one chapter of which laid the blueprint for the now accepted theory that the American woman is, in every way, inferior to her Gallic counterpart. In other words, she threw her compatriots under the bus. “The Frenchwoman is grown up,” Wharton wrote. “Compared…

OCEANIA CRUISES RECOMMENDED SHIPS The 1,258-passenger Riviera and Marina. BEST FOR Foodies. Onboard, master chef Jacques Pépin oversees the various restaurant operations, including Red Ginger (Asian fusion), his namesake Jacques (French country fare), and the Waves poolside grill (decadent Kobe beef burgers with truffle flies). Also, this line is ideal for those who want a port-intensive vacation with few, if any, full days at sea. BEST SUITES The 2,000-square-foot Owner’s Suites, decked out in Ralph Lauren furnishings, stretch from beam to beam, offering wraparound views of three sides of the ship. Each has a pair of whirlpools, a living/dining room, a grand piano, and a media room. DON’T MISS The Culinary Center, with classes ranging from French Classics to Modern Nordic. The Canyon Ranch SpaClub has a gorgeous terrace, with…

PRO ADVICE Tese specialists can give you more details on ships, itineraries, and cabins. Tey’ll advise you on which shore excursions are worthwhile and when a private guide is the best way to go. (Tey’ll organize that, too.) Tey are also the best source for getting the most for your dollar. (Remember, no one pays the brochure prices.) FOR LUXURY SMALL SHIP CRUISES RICHARD BRUCE TUREN (CHURCHILL & TUREN, 630-717-7777, RTUREN@TRAVELTRUTH.COM) MARY JEAN TULLY (THE CRUISE PROFESSIONALS, 800-265-3838, NATASHA@CRUISEPROFESSIONALS.COM) FOR LARGE SHIP CRUISES TOM BAKER (CRUISE CENTER, 713-407-9701, TOM.BAKER@CRUISECENTER.COM) FOR SMALL SHIP EXPEDITION CRUISES ASHTON PALMER (EXPEDITION TRIPS, 206-547-0700, ASHTON@EXPEDITIONTRIPS.COM) For even more targeted advice, write to WENDY PERRIN AT QUESTIONS@WENDYPERRIN.COM. She’ll send you to exactly the right cruise whisperer.…

Dianora Salviati, on paper, seems a little daunting. A member of a noble Italian family that made its fortune in wool and banking six centuries ago, she herself has become something of an obsession among the fashion elite, with the chicest women (Marella Agnelli) and biggest stars (Mick Jagger, Brad Pitt) encircling their celebrated necks with her luxurious scarves. She also happens to live in one of those very grand Tuscan villas; this one is in Migliarino, just outside Pisa, built for an ancestor in the mid-1800s. Yet the person who greets me at the airport, in jeans and sandals—driving a sensible Audi wagon—couldn’t be less intimidating. Her manners are flawless (she insists on carrying my suitcase) but also informal. She is funny and down-to-earth. The villa creates a similar…

Science education for New York City schoolchildren has remained one of the Garden’s highest priorities since its founding in 1891. The Children’s Education Program, now the most extensive at any botanical garden, utilizes its unique facilities and grounds as living classrooms, providing hands-on, curriculum-based programming to nearly 90,000 children annually, many from underserved neighboring communities. Key components of the curriculum introduce students to plant science, ecology, and gardening, among other important subjects, which enhance their understanding and appreciation of the natural world. The Garden’s critical role as an educator of future generations is one that is particularly exciting and rewarding for me. I have seen the faces of schoolchildren brighten and eyes grow wide with amazement as they enjoy the fruits of their labor after preparing soil, sowing seeds, watering,…