Innholdsfortegnelse for SewStylish Fall Fashion 2012 i Threads Magazine

WE’D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU ◼ Send your letters to: SewStylish Letters PO Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 or via email SewStylishLetters@taunton.com Look for this issue’s featured pattern, Simplicity SewStylish 1784, available now at Simplicity.com. As I write this, I’m wearing the knit coat shown on page 47. It’s a little chilly in the office today, and the coat looked so warm, comfortable, and generously sized, that I had to borrow it (just for the afternoon, of course). We’re all fabric-holics, pattern aficionados, and fashionistas here at SewStylish, and we strive to pack every issue with inspiration. Our plan is to spark your interest with great results for on-trend garments. Unlike a fashion magazine, though, we tell you exactly how to make the looks you see, or variations you’ll love.…

IT’S NOT EASY TO FIT SEWING AND DESIGN TIME into a busy schedule of school, homework, and extracurricular activities. Seventeen-year-old Sara Trail has done it and more, though, making a splash in the sewing industry with her clothing, accessory, and home décor patterns, plus books, DVDs, and quilts. Her pattern line, Designed with Love by Sara, is available from Simplicity. Sara shares her talents with her peers as a teacher and mentor, and is constantly thinking up new ideas. You can visit her website at SewSaraSew.com. SewStylish: How did you learn to sew? Sara Trail: I started sewing when I was around 4 years old, sitting on my mom’s lap and helping to guide fabric through the machine. After my mom taught me what she could, I learned more from my…

Have you ever noticed that a puckered sleeve cap screams “homemade” and not in a good way? A skillfully set-in sleeve, using professional techniques, can make your finished garment one you are proud to wear. In this article, you’ll learn the proper steps to construct a fully tailored sleeve complete with sleeve heads and shoulder pads. Not making something tailored? Simply stop at the step you need. Pamela Leggett, owner and designer of PamelasPatterns.com, sews and teaches in the greater Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, area.…

1 On the sleeve, baste two stitching rows from notch to notch, 1⁄4 inch and 1⁄2 inch from the cut edge, using the longest stitch length available on your machine. This is called “ease stitching.” 2 Sew the sleeve seam(s) and press the allowances open. Sew the bodice side and shoulder seams, and press the allowances open. 3 With right sides together, pin the sleeve into the bodice armscye. Align and pin the garment shoulder seam to the center sleeve dot, the underarm seams, and the front and back notches. 4 Pull the basting stitches from the notch to the shoulder on each side until the sleeve cap fits into the armscye. Wind the basting threads around a pin in a figure eight to secure. Evenly adjust the sleeve cap…

Zippers are taking center stage on runways. Instead of hiding them, designers are showcasing zippers on garments, transforming this everyday closure into a high-fashion embellishment. Exposed zippers are showing up on everything from fitted denim skirts and drapey tunics to evening gowns and refined moto jackets. It’s easy to apply this technique to any garment for an eyecatching design. Any garment slit or seamline offers a zipper-placement opportunity, and you can make an exposed zipper into a functional closure or simply an edgy embellishment. Show off a zipper in a skirt seam, at a jacket closure, at a pocket opening, in a sleeve or ankle vent, or at the waistline of a dress. Update the vintage look of sailor pants by closing the traditional button-front flap with two exposed zippers…

Unlock the possibilities in every pattern with subtle or dramatic adjustments. You can add new details to reflect your taste and the trends, and you can derive new silhouettes from a pattern to expand your wardrobe options. Discover the fashion ruler, a must-have notion for pattern alterations; its curves mimic the body’s contours. Learn to select a pattern for and sew chunky, comfy knits with confidence.…

I love the classic jacket style featured in this pattern. However, I wanted to give it a more modern, slightly structured look. So I converted the gathered sleeve cap to an inverted box pleat. To continue with this design change, I also added pleats to the pockets. The pleats add volume to the pockets, too, a look shown on the runways by designers like Burberry Prorsum. Annie O’Connor is assistant editor. Convert Sleeve-Cap Gathers to a Pleat The extra ease in a gathered sleeve cap can be converted easily to a more tailored-looking pleat. 1 Measure the amount of ease. On the garment pattern front and back, measure the armscye seamline length, not including the seam allowances. Then, measure the sleeve cap length, not including the seam allowances. Subtract the armscye…

When you search for a curve, you’ll find them under many names: designer’s curve, French curve, tailor’s curve, drafting curve, hip curve, fashion ruler, and more. They all perform a similar function, but you should purchase one that’s intended for garment design. Its arcs better fit pattern curves. • Drafting curve: Although used by many sewers, these curves are intended for architectural drafting and the curves are usually too small for most pattern alteration purposes. • Designer’s curve (aka fashion ruler): This tool has curves suitable for the armscye, neckline, and hip areas. • Hip curve (aka French curve or tailor’s curve): This long, sloped curve is ideal for altering pants patterns at the hip.…

Here’s a great idea for anyone who likes to restyle, recycle, or renew clothes. Grab a pair of jeans from your closet, a local thrift store, or a tag sale, and use their fabric, details, and hardware—along with a coordinating fabric—as inspiration for a unique new outfit. I’ll walk you through mindfully deconstructing the jeans, laying out the fabric, and, finally, sewing your new garments together. You can use these instructions as a starting point and then customize your snappy suit in whatever way you’d like.…

Sewing this unconventional suit is surprisingly straightforward. The two fabrics join as if they were meant to be together from the start. 1 Cut the undercollar as well as the jacket body and facings from the coordinating fabric. Construct the jacket according to pattern instructions. 2 Sew the skirt. Join the skirt front and back at the side seams. Attach the skirt to the jean waist/yoke unit. I formed inverted pleats at center front and center back for more full-ness and movement. Well-suited Your suit can be a combination of whatever fabric you’d like to coordinate with the jeans. Here are a couple of great options.…

Silk charmeuse drapes, floats, and feels like a second skin when worn. Light as air or with a luxurious weight, silk charmeuse has a satin face and a matte back, and either surface can face out. This glamorous fabric is perfect for lingerie, tops, dresses, or any garment designed to make you feel pampered. Sewing silk charmeuse looks challenging, and maybe that’s part of the fabric’s allure. But once you know the techniques and follow a few precautions, sewing charmeuse garments is a breeze. A luxury material to fall for Silk is not cheap, but charmeuse is not outrageously expensive either, and it can be purchased by mail for less than $20 a yard (see “Silk Sources” on page 75). The finished garments can be washed if the fabric was…

Cutting out the pattern is the difficult part of working with silk charmeuse. Putting the pieces together is easy, but you do need to consider the nature of your seams if you want to maintain the supple drape typical of this fabric. French Seam 1 With wrong sides together, sew the seam at slightly less than half of the seam allowance’s width. For most patterns, this is about 1⁄4 inch from the raw edge. 2 Press the seam as sewn. Then press the right sides together with the seam at the edge. Sew along the pattern’s seamline, enclosing the raw edges within. Flat-fell Seam 1 With wrong sides together, sew along the seamline. Press the seam as sewn, then open, and then to one side. 2 Trim the inner seam allowance.…

Get acquainted with charmeuse by making a simple scarf with seed-bead stripes. Two yards of charmeuse yield a luxurious scarf, approximately 21 inches by 70 inches. Find the cutting instructions on page 96. 1 Cut the scarf sections according to the pattern. With right sides together, sew one long edge of the rectangles together. Press the seam allowances as sewn, then open. 2 Hand-sew seed beads across the scarf’s short ends. A machine-stitched zigzag is a great guide for placing the beads. Sew on the beads from about 1⁄2 inch outside the seam allowance (to be free of the presser foot when you sew the other long seam), across the scarf end and the seam, and to 1⁄2 inch outside the opposite seam allowance. 3 With right sides together, sew…

Playing with color is the best way to create a palette that you love. You can start out with a handful of paint chips, but it’s a lot more revealing to work with fabric swatches. Group them, overlap them to change the relative proportions of the color components, and experiment with unlikely accents. Whether you work from theory or intuition, cast a critical eye on your combinations. Consider the role of each color, and be sure that every component is working harmoniously with the rest. On these pages, I show you my process for putting together two separate palettes: a “warm” one and a “cool” one. Note that regional and seasonal differences might influence your personal palette choices. Warm It Up Hues of yellow-greens and shades of orange, gold, and…

Attaching chains to fabric by machine is simple, but requires specialty presser feet. For each machine-sewing method described here, use clear monofilament thread to make the stitches invisible, or use thread that matches the fabric or the chain. Walk the needle a few stitches over the chain first to ensure that the needle clears the links. Stitch slowly to avoid breaking your needle. Sew with a Single-Cord/Trim Foot Thin chains can be sewn with a continuous line of zigzag stitches using a single-cord or trim foot. The extra-deep groove in the foot’s sole lets the chain pass through easily. These feet are available with holes and channels in various sizes. Make sure the chain feeds through the foot smoothly before attaching the foot to the machine. Use a zigzag stitch…

DIOR ROSES HAVE GORGEOUSLY CASCADED down ballgowns, livened up menswear, and completed evening gowns. Christian Dior, the famous Parisian couturier whose designs were worn by the world’s most glamorous women, loved to accent with these roses. You can easily duplicate the elegance of Dior’s rose using organdy, satin, taffeta, or any fabric that harmonizes with your project—whether it’s a dressy affair or a cool, casual look. Here, discover how easy it can be to re-create this detail for your own garments. Plus, learn how to vary the technique for totally different looks. Adapted from Threads article “Dior Roses” by the late Roberta Carr (no. 34).…

ARMSCYE—Armhole. ASYMMETRICAL ELEMENT—A feature that is intentionally positioned off balance. BACKSTITCH—A strong hand-worked stitch that doubles back on the previous stitch. BACK-TACK—To sew a few stitches back and forth to anchor a seam’s beginning or end. BASTE—To temporarily join fabric pieces with large, easily removable hand or machine stitches. BIAS—Any line diagonal to the crosswise and lengthwise grains. “True bias” is on a 45-degree angle to the selvage, and allows for the most stretch in wovens. BIAS TAPE—A fabric strip cut along the fabric’s true bias; often used for binding. Also referred to as a “bias strip.” BINDING—A fabric strip used to cover or enclose raw edges. BOAT NECK—A neckline that is almost straight from shoulder to shoulder on the front and back. BOUND BUTTONHOLE—A buttonhole that has edges bound…

Extra! Extra! Discover bonus content from this issue when you log on to SewStylish.com. If you love the fold-over bag on page 62, check out a variation with a denim fabrication, flat handles, and a pretty appliqué embellishment. ment. Also, learn an expert method for sewing a finished curved seam in slippery silk in an extra from "Silk Charmeuse" (page 70). All NEW Teach Yourself to Sew The Threads beginner sewing series is back with a new season of sewing tips, tricks, and techniques. In Season 3, Threads Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam tackles the shape of things, including altering shoulder slope, the anatomy of a skirt, one-seam pants, and how to make bound buttonholes. Visit TeachYourselftoSew.com for information and to order a copy now! Now on iPad! You can…

TEXTURED LEATHER’S GRAPHIC DESIGN APPEAL and inherent fun factor make it a fabric you should keep in your sights, be it faux or real. Its wild side, shown here in exotic looks, can be tamed into smart-looking suits or given free range in evening clothes. Accessories make natural mates. Christian Siriano Strap Style. Belts and textured leather go way back but don’t ever go out of fashion. Textured leather makes this statement belt even more outspoken. Reed Krakoff Grab Bag. Textured leather is on the move in the form of fashion-friendly handbags. Here, a classic, simple bag is elevated to an eye-catching, gorgeous accessory. Diesel Piece Out. A skirt in textured leather is ready for a night on the town. The contrasting textures of skin and smooth leathers in this…

TAKE YOUR CUE FROM THE RUNWAYS this autumn and wrap yourself in a chic, voluminous scarf. It offers protection from whatever the weather has in store, while adding an effortless European style to any outfit. You can adorn this scarf with trim or keep it plain, or use a bright edge finish or one that blends in—either way, let the fabric do the talking. For this project, you’ll cut a large fabric strip, finish the short ends and fringe them, add an optional trim, and end with finishing the long edges. Juliette Lanvers writes and blogs about sewing in Salt Lake City, Utah. Check out her site, ChickPea-Studio.com. SHOPPING LIST • 2 yards midweight woven wool fabric (yields 3 to 4 scarves) • 2 spools woolly nylon or woolly polyester serger…

Install a sleeve head in tailored jackets to give the sleeve cap definition. Many years ago, I learned the following technique from a European couture seamstress. I not only use this method for jackets but also occasionally for unlined blouses and dresses. This unique method gives a beautiful finish to the garment’s right and wrong sides. Set the sleeve as described on the previous pages, then add the sleeve head. 1 Cut a 3-inch-wide bias strip from a fine-gauge wool or thin fleece for a lined garment, or self-fabric for an unlined garment. Aligning the raw edges from notch to notch, pin the bias strip to the sleeve cap seam allowance on the bodice side. Stitch the bias strip to the seam allowance so the stitching is just within the…

This issue’s featured Simplicity pattern, SewStylish 1784, is a versatile and sophisticated wardrobe for fall. It’s also a great starting point for embellishment and silhouette changes you can make, no matter what your sewing skill level may be. Here, three SewStylish editors share quick reinterpretations of pieces from Simplicity SewStylish 1784. Based on the jacket, blouse, and pant designs, each editor altered the original pattern to display a runway trend. Learn how to change the blouse into a shirtdress embellished with a touch of lace. See how to incorporate pleats and emphasize the hips on the jacket, through reimagined sleeve caps and pockets. Last, add a multitude of buttons to the pants in an over-the top but easy embellishment. These concepts are simple to execute, inspired by key fall trends,…

Miss Mary Mack would be jealous. If you’re not familiar with her nursery rhyme, she had silver buttons all down her back, back, back. Runway shows from Thom Browne and Rag and Bone showed pants and coats graced with extra rows of buttons down the front and sides. It’s an eye-catching embellishment, and there’s a neat trick to make it easy. Instead of sewing buttonholes on the pants, a tricky and unwieldy task, you’ll make a faux placket that doesn’t open, arrange and sew the buttonholes on it, and insert the placket into a new seam. Sarah McFarland is issue editor. Plan the Placket and Seam The placket can be cut on the grain or cross-grain. (Think how fun it could look on striped pants to have the placket’s stripes going…

Horizontal seams distort more than vertical ones. If they are stayed too tightly, however, the knit stretches immediately around them, while the restricted seam remains rigidly in shape. The compromise is to stay the seam with a narrow elastic strip. Sweater knits also expand on the cross-grain. Before you can finish edges on hems, collars, and sleeve openings with binding, you need to restrain edges with seam binding. Control Horizontal Seams 1 Sew the shoulder seams with straight or stretch stitches, then position elastic along the seam allowance. Use 1⁄4-inch- or 3⁄8-inch-wide sport elastic. Position the elastic within the seam allowance and 1⁄8 inch over the seamline. Leave the elastic uncut (that way you use exactly what you need and trim it after stitching). 2 Stretch the elastic just a…

Every curve on a pattern can be corrected for fit, altered, or redesigned with just one tool. What is this miracle notion? It’s a designer’s curve, a general term for a curved template or ruler that’s used by draftsmen in many areas of design. It’s easy to see why when you understand that every curve on a pattern can be corrected for fit, altered, or redesigned with this tool. Chief among the accolades for a designer’s curve is that it can be used as a guide when altering a pattern that contains a curve, but it also serves as a go-to tool when you need to redraw a curve that has been cut across during fitting. Using the designer’s curve is simple, as you’ll learn in this article, and the…

Sewing for yourself opens a world of creative potential. Color, fabric, and technique work together for results that aren’t off the rack. Cut up and restyle jeans into a creative jacket and skirt you can wear as a suit or as separates. A big, fold-over bag to make is a happy combination of design, details, and utility. Get fall wardrobe inspiration to coordinate fabrics and key accessories to work with new outfits.…

This bag has the important details that make a designer bag shine: shape, functionality, and handsome finishing details. You can fill it to the brim as a top-handled shopper, or fold it and use the shoulder strap and the handy exterior pockets. There’s inner beauty here, too, from the surprise pocket-lining fabrics. I’ve got two versions for you. The Luxe version, described in the stepby-step instructions, is chromed mock croc with black faux leather trim. It has a strap and handles supported by soft plastic tubing. The Bohemian take on this design, with complete directions available at SewStylish.com, is made in durable denim with a raw-edged appliqué embellishment. The flat strap and handles are red faux ostrich leather. With a few exceptions, the techniques to make the two styles are…

The seams that join the top and side layers also attach the top handles and the ring tabs to connect the shoulder strap. The bag and lining are sewn together at the top edge with a piece of faux leather trim sandwiched in the seam. When the bag is turned, the trim folds down into the bag interior to protect the lining’s top edge. 1 Find and mark the center of the bag front’s top edge. Clip or pin a handle in place on the right side, placing each end 2 1⁄4 inches from the mark. Angle each end so that the handle corner closest to the mark is about 1⁄2 inch below the top. Baste the handle in place with a 1⁄4-inch seam allowance. Repeat with the other bag…

We live in a technicolor world, and fashion is one of the best places to have fun with color. You can take your color cues from what’s trending on the runways or go your own way. Even if you’re not a design expert, you can learn to create exciting, flattering color combinations that make you feel and look wonderful. I don’t pretend to be an authority on color theory, but I’ve learned a lot about designing with color through observation, experimentation, and some basic knowledge of how colors interact with each other. I’d like to share my process of creating successful, inspiring color combinations so you, too, can feel comfortable working with color—and maybe even try taking some color risks. Keep in mind that color is personal and that there’s…

Chain isn’t reserved for bikers and tough guys anymore. In finer weights and applied in the right way, chain can add glamour to a basic fabric, give a modern lift to a traditional design, or create a built-in jewelry effect on any garment. Look for a high-quality chain; it will hold up well during cleaning and wear. Sold by the foot, chain can be found in myriad link and metal types, countless weights, and a variety of finishes. You can use any weight or width of chain to embellish a garment. Keep the look glam and ladylike by pairing it with rich fabrics and textures. Here are four ways to sew chain onto garments—by machine and by hand—and several ideas for using it as embellishment. Adapted from Threads article “Chain…

Juliette Lanvers (“Blanket Scarf,” page 17) “I had the opportunity to discover machine embroidery only a few months ago through my partnership with Bernina, and it’s brought me back in touch with my French heritage. I have been monogramming our linens and never miss an opportunity to acquire a vintage tablecloth and napkins to embellish with thread.” Juliette is a 35-year-old sewing enthusiast living in Salt Lake City, Utah, with her husband, 4-year-old son, and two large cats. She enjoys designing patterns for homedécor and children’s accessories, published on her blog, ChickPea-Studio.com, and for the Bernina site, WeAllSew.com. Cheryl Kuczek (“Fold-Over Bag,” page 62) “My favorite embellishments to apply are vintage trims. It’s part of my own eclectic style to use them in new and unusual ways.” Cheryl is the…

Painterly streaks and bold color splashes are trending. Designers are using fabrics printed with brushstrokes that give the effect of streaked, imperfectly applied color. It’s easy to get the look by painting fabric with dyes. Broad, random strokes can yield dazzling results on a variety of cellulose-based fabrics, such as rayon, cotton, or linen. Using dye instead of paint keeps the fabric’s original texture and drape, and it’s easier to create layered and blended effects. Fiber-reactive dyes are particularly easy to use because they bond with cellulose fibers and give excellent colorfastness. To achieve the streaked effect of a paintbrush drawn across a dry surface, use a craft sponge brush or a natural sea sponge, both available at hardware and craft stores. Sponges absorb dyes well and are easy to…

It’s fun to expand your sewing horizons. Learn classic methods or discover inventive ways to achieve exciting results. Bring zippers to the surface as fresh embellishments, with a twist on traditional installation. Make hemming a breeze with tips and make-it-yourself notions discovered by real sewers. See a pro’s straight-forward method for setting a sleeve smoothly.…

Embroider to Hide a Hem Fold Mark Pants can shrink and become shorter with frequent washings. Lengthening the pants becomes a problem because the worn hem leaves a permanent fold mark. You can disguise that unsightly perma-fold with embroidery stitches. Open the hem and extend each pant leg to the desired new length. Sew the new hem with invisible hand stitches, then stitch over the original foldlines with matching or contrasting embroidery floss.—Sabine Margolis, Brooklyn, New York We’ve all been at that point at the sewing machine, staring at an almost-finished garment and thinking “Aren’t raw edges in fashion? Do I HAVE to sew a hem?” Many a great garment has been spoiled at the hemming stage. It’s a shame that a finishing detail can be so fraught with potential…

Every once in a while, you come across a blouse pattern that’s pretty, flattering, and has just the right amount of retro appeal. The blouse from Simplicity SewStylish 1784 is a perfect example. Just a few steps turn it into a shirtdress that’s perfect for a study date, the office, cocktails, or casual wear. The original blouse length falls to about midhip and includes side-seam hem vents. To keep the buttons from gaping in front and to provide a little extra ease through the lower hip for sitting and walking, this pattern alteration creates a slight A-line shape from the waist to the new hemline. A fashion ruler is helpful for accurately redrawing the waist-to-hem side cutting line; learn more about fashion rulers in “Follow the Curve” on page 52.…

Knitters may think they have a lock on making beautiful knit cardigans, hoodies, jackets, and dresses, but don’t believe it. With your sewing machine, you can make an entire wardrobe of wonderful garments using sweater-knit fabric sold by the yard. Almost all the sweaters that are manufactured in the United States are cut and sewn from “sweater fabric,” lengths of knit with a knit-in ribbed edge. There are always new knits to play with and purchase, varieties that are richly textured with dimensional stitches, jacquard designs, lacy pointelles, cables, or tweeds. I’ll share some essential information, basic guidelines, and techniques for achieving great results. If matching rib trim is unavailable, don’t worry. There are other ways to finish the neckline, hem, and edges with readily available materials such as lightweight…

One challenge of making a sweater-knit garment is seam treatment. A technique that stabilizes seams, hides seam allowances, and enhances the design is sewing seams wrong side together and then binding them on the right side of the garment. You can buy knit binding, but making binding from yardage lets you choose the width. 1 Cut a binding strip or strips. Cut the binding on the cross-grain to four times the seam allowance width. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Machine-baste close to the edges to prevent curling. 2 Align the raw edges with the garment edges. Have the garment edges wrong sides together. Stitch the binding to the garment, stretching the binding slightly. 3 Steam and press the seam allowances to one side. Grade the sweater-knit…

Here, learn how to correct or redesign pattern curves using a designer’s curve. Shifting or flipping the curve enables you to draw more appropriate curves for the fit you’ve measured or style you want.…

You have to love patterns that dress you from head to toe. When the design has met the challenge of creating silhouettes that make complete outfits, you get the fun task of selecting fabrics to make your wardrobe a reality. Simplicity SewStylish 1784 offers four pieces to mix and match. Here, we’ll share the concepts behind fabric choices, plus examples of fabric groupings and coordinating accessories inspired by fall trends. Classic pieces, timeless style. Classic is the theme for the jacket and pants on this page, and the blouse and skirt on the next. Classics get to be so because they work in many combinations and on a variety of body types. Fabric: jacket—wool plaid bouclé, Metro Textiles; faux leather trim, Jo-Ann Fabric; pants—wool blend patchwork print twill, Mood Fabrics. Styling…

Follow the pattern on page 94 to cut all of the bag components. Establish a straight edge on the faux leather, then work from that edge to cut the straps, handles, and trim with a rotary cutter. Label each piece, and mark the top edge within the seam allowance. 1 Layer the bag front and back pieces. Stack the pieces right sides up, aligning all edges. The order is muslin, then fleece, and then faux leather on top. Use clips to hold the layers together. 2 Layer the exterior open pocket pieces. Place the exterior open pocket faux leather and lining pieces with wrong sides together and all edges aligned. Clip the layers together. 3 Prepare the zipper pocket pieces. This pocket is lined on just one side. The lining…

Sew stunning garments you’ll love to wear, with advice and embellishment ideas from the experts. Tame gorgeous silk charmeuse to make lovely pieces with less effort. Tap into color theory to develop the skill to explore and use color like a designer. Pursue the intriguing trend of built-on jewelry with chain-application techniques, and give them a try on the clothes you sew.…

Once the charmeuse is laid out square for cutting, the less it’s handled (and especially lifted off the table), the better the chances are of not distorting the grain. 1 With the fabric squared and selvages removed, pin the pattern pieces through the seam allowances onto a single layer of silk. Work with a single layer to ensure the grain doesn’t shift. Use very fine, glass-head pins, with sharp points that slide through the silk without snagging it. Alternately, hold pattern pieces in place with weights. 2 Use a rotary cutter. Scissors lift the fabric, which is likely to distort the grain. For long seams, use a 60-mm rotary cutter, which glides through the silk without causing it to bubble in front of the blade. For tighter areas, use a…

You can use chain in just about any way you wish to embellish garments. Try one of the ideas described here or devise your own unique chain decoration. Experiment with hand stitching and machine sewing chains of various sizes until you achieve the desired effect.…

SEE HOW MANY OF THE ITEMS ON THIS LIST you can identify on the garments on the following pages. Can you spot the right fabrics? Do you know the right prints and patterns? Can you name that silhouette and the proper fashion detail? There may be more than one answer for each. Answers: Asymmetrical element—G, H; Boat neck—C; Bound buttonhole—E; Bound edges—F; Cap sleeves—C; Charmeuse—G; Chemise—I; Denim—J; Eisenhower jacket—J, H; Epaulets—H; Exposed zipper—H; Faux suede—H; Fit and flare—B; Flat-fell seam—J; Floral—I; Flounce—G; Houndstooth—E; Leather—D; Notched collar—E, H; Princess seam—A, E; Pocket flap—F, J; Plaid—D; Pleated patch pocket—F; Self-belt—I; Shawl collar—D, F; Sheath—A; Sleeveless—B, G, I; Taffeta—B; Three-quarter sleeves—A; Tweed—F; V-neck—A.…

HANDMADE GIFTS, GARMENTS, AND ACCESSORIES always make a lasting impression. The creativity and care that go into the process shine through in the unique results. Our annual Quick Stuff to Sew issue, on newsstands in early October, is packed with more than 20 projects to sew for others or for yourself. You’ll be inspired by the easy instructions and fast results to make items you’ll love to keep or share. Cuddly Mittens Stitch these adorable accessories for the whole family, no knitting required. These mitts are restyled from thrift-store sweaters. Pretty Pleats Create a simple, stunning skirt from prefolded fabric. Designer versions of this elegant look are pricey, but it’s a cinch to sew. Pet Pillow Sew a throw pillow in the likeness of the family pet. This fun project…