Innholdsfortegnelse for Fitting Spring 2013 i Threads Magazine

Sewing perfection is a garment that fits Ask garment sewers why they make their own clothes, and a great fit is inevitably a part of their answer. None of us is a standard size—and vive la différence! Our variety of beautiful shapes means that getting a good fit from an off-the-rack garment or an out-of-the-package pattern is not a reality for most. However, with knowledge about how to sew for fit, you can create garments that make you look and feel spectacular. To help you do that, this issue brings together some of the best fitting articles from Threads’ 27-year history, written by renowned fitting experts. Whether you’re new to garment fitting or you want to tackle a particularly challenging problem, you’ll find answers on the following pages. Get started…

The key to perfecting any pattern, computer-generated or hand-drafted, lies in gathering specific information about the body to be fitted. Although pattern design is an art, taking measurements is a science. Fortunately, the process is systematic and logical, and with time and a patient measuring partner, you can be confident in the accuracy of your measurements. By following the detailed steps in this article, you will obtain a set of measurements to use for fine-tuning the fit of commercial patterns or creating hand-drafted designs. And if you are working with pattern-drafting software, you’ll be able to adapt my methods as you follow brand-specific instructions. Accurate measurements also can help you compare the corresponding sections of your favorite garments to discover and understand the amount of wearing ease you prefer. PREPARATION…

Having the right tools and knowing how to use them is basic to the mastery of any craft, including sewing. Many of our basic sewing tools are so simple and so well-designed that they’ve remained essentially unchanged for centuries—and they’re so familiar that sometimes we don’t realize they can be used in ways beyond the obvious. Plus innovative and ingenious versions are developed from time to time. Here’s an overview of the best tools—old, new, and updated—that make accurate measuring and marking a sure thing for sewers of every skill level. FOR TAKING GOOD MEASUREMENTS The prerequisite for any successful garment-sewing project is accurate measurements of the body. Measuring a body that’s standing is a two-person job, and the right tape measure can make the activity more accurate and less…

Vertical and circumferential measurements are important in fitting the bodice; match vertical pattern dimensions with those taken from the body, plus minimal ease of 1 ⁄4 inch. Follow ease recommendations on page 27 for round-the-body measurements; remember to measure back and front, when needed, and to double the flat half-pattern dimensions for full circumference measurements.…

Start by making a foundation layer to fit the dress form exactly. There are several ways to get a precise fit for your dress form. If it is a standard size, buy a basic pattern, and cut and assemble it to fit. You can also create this layer by draping muslin onto the form to get the pattern. See Threads articles: “On Draping a Fitted Bodice” by Donald McCunn (no. 52); “Master Class: Introduction to Draping” by Valerie Fuhr (no. 96); and “Try Plus-Size Draping—For the Best Bodice Ever” by Kathleen Cheetham (no. 130). The foundation layer backs the padding you add later. 1 Make a foundation layer pattern using your preferred method. (I draped a muslin to the form; cutting it long enough to cover at least the widest…

1 Stitch the neck. Secure the center front where the two layers lie next to each other. 2 Fell-stitch the finished edges of the armholes to the batting only. This holds the cover in place at the shoulders. 4 Hold the cover zipper in position. Make chain swing tacks every 2 inches to 3 inches along both sides of the opening. These tacks hold everything in position when taking the body double on and off the form but won’t compress the padding along the center-back line. 5 Make a rolled hem or pink the body double’s lower edges. The inner and outer edges don’t necessarily get sewn together, as the circumference of the cover might not match the circumference of the foundation. 3 With a long running stitch, sew the…

USE DRESSMAKER’S CARBON TO MARK THE MUSLIN Transfer all the stitching and registration lines to the muslin: grainlines (lengthen them so they run the full length of the pattern piece), notches, darts, waistline, bust apex, pocket-placement lines, design details, hemlines, center front, center back, boning placement, buttons, buttonholes, etc. I use large (26-inch-by-39-inch) sheets of Professional Transfer Paper (RichardTheThread.com). You can transfer information by sandwiching a folded piece of carbon between two layers of fabric, but I use a more accurate method. Pin the pattern pieces to the muslin, paying strict attention to grainlines. Then, roughly cut out each muslin section. There’s no need to measure seam allowances exactly, but make them at least 1 inch wide. Remember, it’s the seamline, not the cutting line, that’s critical. Allow extra fabric…

1 NET LOSS If an area is too large, subtract fabric. 2 NET GAIN  If an area is too small, add fabric. 3 NO NET CHANGE If an area is the wrong shape, redistribute.…

1 Fold out the net loss on the side-back wedge edges. If the wedge edges don’t align because one is slightly curved, fold the wedge as close as possible, and then remove the wedge sliver that’s left. 2 Remove the remaining sliver. After the wedge is folded out, a sliver remains (shaded area). To remove the sliver, cut the paper along the lower curve, as shown below. 4 Correct for the distortion. First, draft a slash line from the waist to the hem, as shown below. Then, cut the paper on this line from the hem through the waist. 3 Cover the opening. Mark the original waistline, and rotate the cut edge to cover the sliver, as shown below. 5 Redraft the hem curve. Slide the side-seam piece down until…

1 Make the usual alterations. To get started, make all of your standard alterations directly on the pattern tissue. If you’re tall or short, for example, and know you always adjust for length, make these standard alterations before proceeding. 2 Mark the waist. If your pattern doesn’t have waist markings, or if the waist is not relevant to the design, ignore this step. Otherwise, extend the back- and front-waist markings with a colored felt-tip pen so that you can see them clearly. Place glass-head pins on the center-front and back-waist markings, which will enable you to “feel” your waist with your fingers as well as see it for fitting. 3 Pin the pattern together with seams and darts facing out. Pin the darts first using fine, long, glass-head pins. Position…

Nothing flatters like a good fit. And you can take the guesswork out of fitting pants by custom-drafting your own pattern from the start. It sounds complicated, but with a few simple measurements, a ruler, pattern paper, a pencil, and my map, it’s as easy as working a crossword puzzle. It doesn’t take artistic or sewing skill to make a perfect pattern. You just draw a line, and along it, mark points that correspond to your body measurements; then square the lines. (Squaring means drawing a line at 90 degrees to the line containing a referenced point.) Follow these steps until you have the pattern you’ve been looking for, and be sure to add seam allowances. Adapted from “The Best-Fitting Pants—Ever,” in Threads, no. 134. MEASURE UP Exact measurements are…

There’s more to fitting an armhole, also known as an armscye, than you may think: It requires fitting the bust dart, shoulders, and side seams. And the only way I know to successfully fit an armhole is to use a muslin. A muslin is a test garment in inexpensive fabric, initially sewn without facings or edge finishes. You pin-fit the muslin right on the body. The object is to make the fabric skim the body with no signs of wrinkles or strain lines. Although becoming a fitting expert can take years of practice, I’m going to give you a straightforward method of how to fit an armhole and develop a well-fitting bodice muslin that accurately reflects the shape of the body. Follow this order when fitting: bust, back, underarm, shoulder…

CUT AND SPREAD IS THE TRADITIONAL METHOD Cut the pattern from the shoulder point to the wrist, and from the left underarm point to the right underarm point … … then spread the two underarm points in opposite directions until their distance apart matches your biceps circumference. Even though this method maintains the original sleeve-cap length, it lowers the cap height. INCREASE SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR ADDED EASE VERTICAL CUTS EXPAND THE SLEEVE CAP If more room is needed, cut from the shoulder point to the wrist and spread the pattern to add 1 inch. If you need to add still more room, cut parallel lines 1 1 ⁄ 2 inches from the first cut and distribute the remaining amount between those two cuts by spreading the pattern as shown.…

Most pattern companies design bodice patterns to fit a B cup. That’s great if that’s your correct size, but I’ve discovered that many women with bust-fitting issues often don’t know their correct bra size. It takes three measurements to determine your bra size. Put on your best-fitting bra to measure the circumference under your bust 1 . Keep the tape measure snug. To this measurement, add either 4 or 5 inches to get an even number. This total is your bra-band size. Next, measure the circumference above your bust 2 . This measurement is taken high under your arms. It is your chest—excluding your bust—and is called the “high bust” measurement 3. Then, measure around your full bust. Make sure the tape measure is parallel to the floor all around the body and is positioned…

3 Cut the horizontal line first. Cut from the center front to the side seam. Leave a little hinge of tissue paper for pivoting at the side seam, and lift the pattern’s upper section. 5 Pivot the center section downward so the horizontal cut edges are parallel from the second dart to the center front. The best way to find out how much to spread the pattern is to make a muslin, so you know how the original pattern fits you. This will tell you how much you need to add in width and length over the abdomen. 1 Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline across the tummy on your pattern. Place it at the abdomen’s fullest point, as shown at left. 2 Draw a vertical line from the…

HANG A SKIRT HIGH Attach the lower section of a skirt to a full slip. Because the skirt hangs from your shoulders, the problem of tipping hems is removed. And, because the skirt does not have to go around the fullness of the tummy, you can wear a pencil skirt that looks like a pencil skirt. Just make sure the hem of the jacket or blouse you’re wearing extends at least 2 inches past the seam that joins the slip to the skirt. Use a slip from your own lingerie drawer, or make a simple pullover slip using nylon tricot. 1 Put on the slip. Have a sewing buddy draw a line with disappearing ink or chalk around your slip that sits below the fullness of your tummy and runs…

Creating a smaller size accurately can be as easy as connecting the dots when you use a multisized pattern as a guide. A multisized pattern has a range of at least three sizes printed in a nested fashion on one pattern tissue. To create a size not offered in the pattern, measure and mark the incremental change between the size lines marked on the pattern, and continue the sequence. By grading in this fashion, you carry all of the ease adjustments for the pattern to the new size you are making. MEASURE AND MARK THE INCREMENTAL CHANGE 1 You can use a ruler or the blank side of a business card to quickly measure and mark the distance between size lines. To begin, place your card anywhere on the pattern’s…

Q I’ve heard that most patterns are sized for a 5-foot, 6-inch-tall body. I’m taller. What’s the best way to add length to a skirt pattern? A Karen Howland responds: Adding length to patterns and to ready-to-wear is something with which I am familiar; I’m 6 feet 2 inches tall. At first thought, the solution appears to be as simple as adding extra length to the bottom. However, if a silhouette tapers or flares, it’s not that simple. When you add significant length to a skirt by extending the side seams, a frared skirt can end up with a hem that’s wider than your fabric; and a tapered skirt can end up with a hem edge that is so narrow you can’t walk. The style of your skirt determines whether…

A NECKLINE Identify the natural neckline with a short chain necklace that settles comfortably, just below the slight hollow at the base of the neck. Mark the exact center front of this neckline with an adhesive or pen dot. Mark the prominent vertebra at the top of the spine with an adhesive or pen dot. Bend the head forward to make the vertebra easier to find. Mark a point on each side of the neck, in line with the hollow just behind the earlobe. B BUST POINT Mark the nipple location with a cross of two pins on the bra fabric or with an adhesive dot. C SHOULDER POINT Feel for the end of the flat bone at the end of the shoulder, or raise your arm until a dimple…

You love the fabric, you’re excited by the pattern, and you’ve taken and recorded your measurements carefully. What’s the next step to a successful garment? Comparing your measurements with those used to draft the pattern, and reconciling any discrepancies—so that the fit is in your favor. The fact that most people can’t fit into a commercial pattern without making a few adjustments is no surprise, but using your measurements to figure out where to make those adjustments on the pattern tissue may seem mysterious at first. I’ll show you which measurements to take on a basic pattern so you’ll have a fair comparison with your body size, and start you in the direction of choosing the best among the multisizes on the tissue, or altering the pattern to fit. IT’S…

Circumference dimensions at the pattern’s waist and hips, as well as the crotch length and depth, must be reconciled with your own measurements. Use recommended ease amounts to build comfort and good fit into the pants. Waist and abdomen: Measure the abdomen across the front at the depth of greatest fullness (e.g., at waist, or below). Add or subtract at side seams, equally in front or back, or more in front if a full abdomen warrants. Adjustments also may be made by deepening or eliminating darts. Hips: Adjust at the side seams, by curving gently from waist to hip; taper gradually back to original width at hem. Crotch length: Adjust either at crotch points (front and/or back), or by raising or lowering the waistline at center front or center back.…

M uslin may be an inexpensive fabric, but a muslin test garment is worth its weight in gold. Time perfecting a muslin is time well spent. Without it, your efforts are, at best, a gamble; with it, your sewing path is clear. Working out fit and proportion issues at the experimental phase enables you to confidently proceed to work with the fashion fabric. A muslin (toile) is the essential first test or trial run for any finished couture garment. The word “muslin” can refer to the fabric or, as it does in this case, the working garment, which is typically made from muslin fabric. Unbleached muslin is affordable and easy to find in most fabric stores, but be sure to select one that’s sturdy enough for pattern and fitting purposes.…

Your shoulders are like a clothes hanger: Every top, jacket, and dress you put on hangs from them. If you want your clothes to look better on you than on a hanger, you need to perfect the fit in the shoulders. Basically, you need to match the garment’s shoulder slope to yours. The slope of the shoulders is the angle starting at the base of the neck, just below your ear, to the shoulder point—in other words, from where a short necklace would fall at the side of the neck to where you’d like the seam of a set-in sleeve to lie. If your shoulders are more square or more slanted than the garment’s, you’ll see evidence everywhere, from the neckline to the upper chest, the back, the sleeves, and…

In the course of adding darts and making other fitting adjustments, you also have made multiple changes to the seams. Now you have to determine that both sides of a seam are the same length. To do this, you walk and true the seam. To walk the seams on your paper pattern, first pin in the darts and then compare the stitching lines of adjacent seams (side front to side back, or shoulder front to shoulder back) in 1-inch increments from one end of the seam to the other. If the seams aren’t the same length, use the horizontal balance line, notches, and key landmarks to determine where length should be added or subtracted. It is essential to compare actual seamlines, excluding the seam allowance; the seamlines must match in…

Buy a new bra in the size determined on page 83. While wearing your new bra, check the band and shoulder straps. The band should be horizontal around the circumference of your body, and the straps should be secure so they don’t fall off your shoulders. Measure from the shoulder to the waist over the bust point. Adjust the straps so the apex of your bust is at or above the halfway point. The higher your bust, the more youthful (and thinner) your figure appears. 1 Bust depth. Stand in front of a mirror, and measure from the shoulder seamline directly below your ear to your bust point 1. 2 Bust width. Next, measure the distance between your bust points 2. Then divide this measurement in half 3; this is…

CHANGE CUTTING LINES Move the cutting lines to a larger size to accommodate the tummy. To get more wearing ease so the garment can fall smoothly over the stomach, don’t sew the torso darts; they constrict the fabric over the abdomen. CHANGE SIZES BETWEEN PATTERN PIECES If you have too much fabric in the back leg and not enough in the front over the tummy, cut a larger front and a smaller back. Be sure to mark the same waistline height and pocket notches so the side seams are the same length and the pockets match correctly.…

1 Divide the blouse front pattern just below the bust dart. Add seam allowances to both sections. 2 Divide the lower blouse section into five equal parts. Spread them evenly apart for a new pattern. Cut the fabric to this shape. Gather or pleat the lower section of the blouse to fit the bodice top. For a smooth, flowing panel, use a soft fabric that does not have much bulk.…

We buy pattern sizes based on circumference measurements, but when it comes to pattern length, we’re left to fend for ourselves. Most pattern companies draft their patterns for a woman 5 feet 6 inches tall. A big challenge for the petite sewer is making a pattern short enough for her tiny figure. If you’re 5 feet or shorter, you can’t successfully shorten a pattern designed for someone 6 inches taller, simply by removing the extra length at the hem. The extra length has to be subtracted throughout the body length. The same thing is true if you’re 6 feet tall and adding length. Surprisingly, our height doesn’t necessarily reflect the way our proportions are distributed. Not everyone is short or long in the same place—we’re short- or long-waisted, have a…

TECHNIQUES • COMMUNITY • PROJECTS • SEWING NEWS • CONTESTS & MORE Expert Fitting Advice and More! Accurate measurements are a must for achieving a good fit. You can get them by measuring your favorite, well-fitting clothes. Download Susan Lazear’s printable measurement chart to learn how. Once you have proper body measurements, try your hand at pattern drafting. In this online video, Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam demonstrates how to draft the front and back of a bodice pattern at lightning speed. Download the printable article for detailed instructions.…

ARMS SHOULDERS NECK BUST WEB extra To record your measurements easily, print out the chart from Threads.Magazine.com. CROTCH LEGS WAIST AND HIPS All circumference measurements taken below the waistline should be accompanied by a depth measurement—the vertical distance between the waist and the specific measurement.…

When I went behind the scenes at the Metropolitan Opera, I learned that the costumer there makes body doubles that fit over standard dress forms. This way, the designers can create a custom-fitted garment without the performer having to appear for multiple fittings, and the Met doesn’t have to store an army of dress forms. Inspired by the Met’s system, I set out to create a removable body double for a standard dress form. It’s a great solution for anyone who sews for others—mothers and daughters, best friends, wedding parties, and dressmakers as well, or just yourself and an ever-changing figure. You can create a removable padded cover for anyone you sew for without having to invest in multiple dress forms, and your client doesn’t have to be present for…

With the measurements taken and the cover fitted, begin padding the foundation. For better control, use fusible quilt batting (JuneTailor.com). It enables you to build up the layers of padding easily, and it doesn’t shift. When padding, exaggerate the curves and circumferences to give the cover something to compress for a firm body double. 1 Tear the batting rather than cutting it. This creates softer edges and enables you to blend the layers of batting together as you’re working. 3 Form the bust. Use shaped pads as needed. Raglan shoulder pads worked perfectly to build up the bust. First pin them in place to get the proper position and contour. Then use fusible batting to secure them to the foundation. 4 Apply more batting to round out the bust area.…

DETERMINE THE SEAMLINES A wide seam allowance gives you plenty of leeway in fit and design and is essential to making adjustments. To add seam allowances, you have to mark the seamlines on the muslin; therefore, you first have to locate and mark them on your commercial pattern. With the advent of multisize patterns, seamlines are no longer printed on commercial patterns; typically, they’re 5 ⁄8 inch from the cutting lines, but always check the pattern instructions. Measure in from the cutting line using a ruler, and mark all the seamlines on your pattern. Before you move on to the fabric, make any necessary adjustments, such as length or size alterations, to the paper pattern. You’ll refine things later, but if there are changes that you know you’ll have to…

How does fitting work into your sewing? Is it a practiced discipline, a sewing mystery, a miracle, or a clothing necessity? Sooner or later, everybody needs to learn a few fitting tricks. It’s easy enough to see when a section of the garment doesn’t fit, but where to make the correction isn’t always obvious. I’ll show you how to apply three basic principles to fit almost any garment to any body and how to fit your patterns exactly at the place where they don’t. This approach doesn’t negate other fitting methods; it just gives you the tools to reason through any fitting problem on your own. HOW TO ANALYZE A GARMENT FOR FIT Every fitting process begins with evaluating how the body fills a garment. Understanding how to fit your…

1 Pin the excess into a dart. Begin at the center back, and work around the bodice to the side seam from under the shoulder blades, pinning the excess fabric into a horizontal dart. Then have the wearer move her arm, to see whether there’s still room to raise it. 2 Continue to pin. Pin out the excess from the center to the side seams. Make sure the hem does not rise with the alteration and it’s level with the floor. If it rises, measure how much, and add that length at the hem when altering the pattern. 3 Mark the folds. As you did on the sleeve, mark the fitting folds with hash marks and a pencil. Then remove the pins. 4 Transfer the information to the pattern. Remove…

Tissue fitting is a practical, timesaving, and creative process that helps you sort out fitting and design issues in new patterns before you ever pick up a needle. It involves cutting out the pattern, pinning the tissue together, and trying it on for evaluation. Unlike a muslin, which you must cut out and sew together, tissue fitting produces immediate results. You can ascertain how the finished garment will look and fit, and get a sneak preview that enables you to recognize those occasions when you don’t want to proceed with a particular pattern. Tissue fitting also allows you to visualize design changes and choose the one you like best from a variety of patterns. If tissue fitting is not part of your design repertoire, start with a simple blouse, jacket,…

PLACE THE POCKET Check the pocket’s placement, shape, and scale, or determine where you might want to add a pocket. I use oaktag templates to play with different pocket options. Cut various shapes and sizes of patch pockets or strips to mimic potential welt pocket openings. Then move the templates around to visualize and explore possibilities. Try, for example, placing a welt pocket vertically or at an angle, or adding a tiny patch pocket or series of pockets to a blouse or jacket pattern. The finished garment is free of the problems that were resolved during the tissue fitting, and the pattern design is now truly unique. Jacket pattern: modified, ReVisions, “The Santa Cruz” PIN AND FIT SLEEVES SEPARATELY Don’t attempt to pin the tissue sleeve pattern into the pinned-together…

You’ve probably been told over and over never to change the sleeve cap because, if you do, it won’t fit into the armhole properly. Let’s venture into that sacrosanct sleeve cap and break tradition by fitting the sleeve cap to your arm instead of to your pattern’s armscye. I’m going to lead you through the sleeve-fitting process, explain how much bigger a sleeve cap can be in proportion to the armscye opening, and show you how to draft an alternative sleeve to accommodate a fuller upper arm. As for most custom-fitting projects, you’ll need a pattern, a person to assist you with fitting, and muslin fabric to test the fit. When you’re finished, you can combine the well-fitting armscye detailed in “Get the Right Armhole,” page 70, with your custom…

Jackets and blouses with simple, classic lines are always chic and stylish—but if they don’t have bust darts, you may shy away from them because you know darts can be a girl’s best friend. When placed properly, a couple of darts make your bustline look perfect and flatter your waistline, too. Fortunately, they aren’t difficult to add to a pattern. Once you’ve determined your correct bra size, you can follow a simple formula to add darts of the right size to your patterns. I guarantee you’ll end up with a better fit than you’ll ever find in ready-to-wear garments. Adapted from Threads, no. 142. Add a dart for a better fit. The jacket on the left has no bust darts. A dart seems to form under the arm, the center…

1 Transfer your measurements. From the intersection of the neckline and shoulder seam down the front of the pattern (parallel to the grainline), measure the bust-depth distance you measured, and make a dot. This is not your bust point, it only indicates bust-point depth. The bust-point dot is placed in step 3. 2 Draw a horizontal line through the dot. Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline from the center-front line through the dot to the side seam. 3 Mark the bust point. Starting at the center-front line, measure the distance of 3 (see the illustration in “Measure the new you,” far left) along the horizontal line, and draw a large dot. This dot is the correct bust point. 4 Add a diagonal line. Draw a second line from the…

1 Draw guidelines. On the pattern front, draw a line parallel to the grainline from the hem to the bust point and from the lower dart leg at the side seam to the bust point. Cut along both guidelines, leaving a little hinge of paper to pivot at the bust point. 3 Close the dart entirely or partially. You decide how much room you need to add over the tummy. If you split the difference, you can opt to keep a small bust dart and add less at the tummy. 2 Close the bust dart. Rotate the pattern section on the hinge until the bust-dart legs meet. When you bring the dart legs together, the fullness of the dart transfers to the tummy area. 4 Finish by adding length at…

MEASURE THE HIGH BUST FOR TOPS 1 Match the pattern to the high bust. This is also the chest measurement; it starts you out with a pattern size that’s in keeping with your overall frame and is easy to adjust everywhere else. To find your high-bust measurement, wrap a measuring tape snugly around your chest at the underarm level. Note your high-bust and full-bust measurements. 2 Then determine the pattern’s bust cup size. This information is usually shown on the envelope back. It’s much nicer to have a pattern that is drafted for your bust cup, but if that’s not possible, choose your size based on the pattern’s full-bust measurement using this formula: If your top pattern is drafted for a B-cup bust (as most patterns are, unless otherwise specified),…

With multisized patterns, you can blend from one size to another and customize a fit for small or full body sections. You’ll notice on some multisized patterns that, as size increases, so does the length. This isn’t true of the body—if you gain or lose weight, your height doesn’t change. If you increase circumference, you don’t have to increase the length, too. Mark the size that corresponds to your circumference measurements, and then taper from one size to the other using a French curve as a guide to make smooth transitions, as shown. This technique works for tops, jackets, skirts, dresses, and pants.…

REDUCE THE DART WIDTH 1 Mark the bust point (sometimes called the apex) on the pattern. Measure on your body from the shoulder at the neckline to the bust point and then the distance to the center front. Transfer this position to the pattern. 4 Place a pattern weight on the upper section of the pattern, or secure it to the table with tape on the upper-chest section only. In addition to overlapping at the bust point, the pattern has moved over at the hem edge. We’ll correct that hem overlap in the next step. 5 Cut a line through the bust dart all the way to, but not through, the bust point, leaving a little paper hinge. 2 Cut a vertical line from the hem to the bust point mark…