Innholdsfortegnelse for Classic Garment Sewing Skills i Threads Magazine

Most sleeve styles fall into three basic categories: set-in, cut-on, and raglan. However, variations at the shoulder seam and at the hem create many other design options. Pattern instructions explain how and when to attach the sleeve, but it’s helpful to know some alternative techniques in case you want to make design changes. SET-IN SLEEVES Set-in sleeves are joined to the garment bodice at a seam that circles over the shoulder and under the arm—the armscye (or armhole) seam. A well-set-in sleeve meets the shoulder in a puckerfree, smoothly sculpted, curved seam. Perfect sleeve caps boost the appearance of the wearer by making the shoulders proportional to the rest of the body. They create symmetry by squaring up uneven shoulder slopes and heights, and they slenderize the silhouette by hiding…

Necklines, armholes, and front and back opening edges all need some sort of finish. Depending on the look you want and the demands of the garment, you can use a facing, a band (woven or knit), binding, piping, ruffles, or even a deliberately “raw” edge like self-fabric fringe. Consider appearance, comfort, and longevity when choosing an edge finish, and don’t hesitate to adapt pattern instructions by changing the suggested finish. FACINGS Facings are a classic element in garment construction used to finish edges at necklines, armholes, front and back openings, hems, vents, and slits. Whether a facing is a separate pattern piece that echoes the shape of the opening it finishes, made from a fold-over fabric extension (called a self-facing), or cut from a strip of bias fabric, its role…

Buttons are among the oldest of fasteners, but that makes them classic. There’s such a huge range of button styles to choose from that you can find a button to suit nearly any project, both in function and in form. Select the correct button and sew it on sturdily, and you’ll never have to worry about losing it. To partner the perfect button, you need to stitch the perfect buttonhole: Place it properly, sew it correctly, and it will stand up to years of use. BUTTONS Button size, weight, and durability contribute to a garment’s aesthetic, hang, and fit. The pattern envelope lists a recommended button size, which corresponds to the amount of overlap at the garment’s opening, and assumes the thickness of a 1⁄8-in. flat button. You may use…

When you can’t find ready-made shoulder pads that are just right for your garment, it’s easy to custom-make your own. Follow these guidelines, using your garment pattern as a guide, or try a commercial shoulder pad pattern. Use bonded, low-loft quilt batting. 1. For a pattern, start with a semicircular shape, approximately 8 in. in diameter, or trace a pattern from the garment pattern as shown, following the shape of the front and back armscye. 2. Cut graduated layers of batting as shown: five for a thick pad, three to four for a thinner pad, eliminating the smallest semicircles. Stack the layers with straight edges even. The largest layer will form the top of the pad, the smallest will be on the bottom. 3. Stitch the layers together by hand,…

Fitting a bodice that is strapless, is off-theshoulder, or has only the skinniest of straps involves engineering support that works from the waist up, rather than the shoulder down. A snugly fitted waist stay, in combination with vertical boning in the bodice, provides a structure that stays up on its own. The extra steps you take to sew a special occasion dress are well worth the time for a gown that reflects your taste exactly and fits your figure perfectly. SUPPORT FOR STRAPLESS GOWNS A strapless dress is supported from the waist, not the top of the bosom. A waist stay, combined with boning and a snug bodice, holds up a strapless gown. Making a Waist Stay A waist stay is a firm band of ribbon or elastic attached to…

A traditional shirt or blouse with a yoke can be constructed without any top-, edge-, or hand-stitching. Perform this operation before attaching the sleeves or collar. This technique works with any yoke and yoke facing that are at least 3 in. wide from the front edge to the back at the shoulders. Be sure you cut the yoke and yoke facing exactly the same size so that all their raw edges line up precisely. 1. ATTACH THE YOKE AND FACING TO THE SHIRT BACK With the right sides together, pin the yoke to the garment back. Pin the right side of the yoke facing to the wrong side of the back. Stitch through all three layers, trim the seam allowances, then press the yoke and yoke facing away from the…

Waistline finishes include the seam joining the bodice and skirt of a dress, and the top edge of pants and skirts. A waistline seam creates shape in dresses and coats. Facings, casings, and bands provide an anchor for pants and skirts, which hang from the waistline treatment. Note that the waistline of a garment may not fall at the body’s natural waist; many garment styles are designed with the waist treatment below or above the natural waist. It’s important to fit the waistline of the garment carefully, no matter where it falls, so that it can support the weight of the garment properly. WAISTLINE SEAMS The seam that joins the bodice and skirt of a garment can be positioned above, below, or at the actual waist. Sew the bodice and…

Zippers fall into two basic categories: separating (opening at both ends) or closed (opening at one end), but there are many variations. Their interlocking teeth come as plastic coils, metal or plastic teeth, and decorative interlocking rhinestones, giving you plenty of design options. With strategic pressing and pinning, inserting zippers is easy. Consider zippers design features as well as closures. PREPARING THE ZIPPER AND THE GARMENT Take the time to stabilize the zipper opening area and to prep the zipper for the easiest, smoothest application. Preparing the Zipper Press any wrinkles out of the zipper tape, using only the tip of the iron to avoid melting synthetic zipper teeth. If the zipper is too long for the opening, shorten it. To shorten a zipper, mark the desired finished length across…

Lining is a functional and luxurious finishing touch to a garment. It covers construction details, makes the garment easy to slip on and off, provides added insulation, prevents wear on the fashion fabric, and generally lends a professional finish. Although it’s not always visible, a lining improves the overall quality of anything you sew. LINING TECHNIQUES If you are making a tailored garment, lining instructions and pattern pieces are provided in the pattern envelope. However, you can also use a quick and easy ready-to-wear lining method, called bagging, with professional-looking results. Bagging the lining means applying it almost 100 percent by machine (including the sleeves), with minimal or no handwork. Although bagged jacket and vest linings are most popular, it’s possible to bag linings in tops, dresses, skirts, and pants,…

The elasticized casing can be treated in several ways for decorative effect, and to stabilize the elastic within the casing. 1. Sew several parallel rows of topstitching through the casing and the elastic, stretching the elastic as you sew. Be sure to use sewthrough elastic and pull it tightly from both sides while topstitching. 2. To create a ruffle or header at the top edge, plan so that the fold-over casing is wider than the elastic. Add twice the desired ruffle width to the fold-over casing. Then, sew an additional row of stitches below the upper fold to form the top of the casing. 3. For multiple pieces of narrow elastic, topstitch parallel lines of stitching with enough room between them for the elastic to fit through smoothly. Attach a…

Style and function dictate the type of closure you need for a garment. Whether you want the closure to be invisible or decorative (as shown at right), it’s important that it be secure. Choose closures that are compatible with the fabric’s weight and care requirements, and assess the type of strain that may be present when the garment is worn. Consider the wearer’s ability to manipulate closures, too. SEWING HOOKS AND EYES Typically, you’ll find hooks and eyes at the top of a zipper closure on dresses or tops, inside fur coats, and on waistbands. To stay closed, most hookand-eye sets need to be under a small amount of tension, so that the hook is pulled against the eye. If you use a hook on a loose-fitting garment, it’s likely…

The main role of shoulder pads is to support a garment and prevent sagging at the shoulders and through the upper torso. They are important for adding shape and structure, and they affect the way that a garment fits, hangs, and looks on the body. Even a small pad can make a difference. Tailored jackets and coats usually require set-in tailor’s shoulder pads to hold their structure. In some cases, a firmly shaped raglan pad can be used, even if the garment has set-in sleeves. SELECTING SHOULDER PADS Shoulder pads come in many shapes and sizes. Firmer, larger pads are best for jackets and coats made of heavy fabrics. Small, lightweight, soft pads are better suited to knits, blouses, and dresses. If the garment is designed to have shoulder pads,…