Innholdsfortegnelse for #210 - August-September 2020 i Threads Magazine

VANESSA NIRODE (“Jumpsuits That Work,” p. 44) says, “I learned an important piece of information about machine needles recently: FFG/SES is Groz-Beckert industrial needle code for small—or light—ball point. This is similar to a home sewer’s ‘universal’ point needle. Understanding this has solved a lot of problems with sewing stretch fabrics on my industrial machine, which typically is equipped with a standard sharp needle.” Vanessa is a New York-based tailor and patternmaker for film, television, and fashion with more than 30 years of experience. When she isn’t sewing, she likes to bicycle outside the range of cell phone service. BECKY FULGONI (“Evening Fabrics for Daywear,” p. 32) says, “Something that I have been playing with lately is using ribbing or knit fabric to finish the neckline of a woven garment.…

With rich colors and bold stripes, Guatemalan textiles evoke the ethnic designs of the Central American country where they are made. Handwoven in 100 percent cotton, they often feature ikat details that introduce more complex motifs. These fabrics start out crisp but soften after washing. Air or machine-dry the fabric and garments separately to prevent abrasion, which can make the fabric appear aged prematurely. To retain crispness, dry-clean the finished garment. Available in a range of weights—from lightweight to a sturdy mid weight—Guatemalan cottons are suitable for easy-fitting skirts, unstructured jackets, tops, and soft furnishings such as napkins, place mats, and pillow covers. Because the cotton weave has some give, pants and fitted skirts may stretch out and sag at the seat and knees. Note that these handwoven textiles are…

Pattern Emporium: True Romance Bishop Sleeve Top (PatternEmporium.com) Multiple sleeve styles, bodice silhouettes, and hem finish choices make this knit top a versatile option for any wardrobe. The top has a bateau neckline finished with a narrow binding and a choice of subtle or dramatic bishop sleeves with several cuff styles. The bodice comes in three versions: blouson with a fitted band at the hemline; flared; and tee, which is fitted and features a simple topstitched hem. There are five sleeve finish options: a cuff; extended cuff; frilled hem that is shirred with three rows of elastic; shirred cuff; and slim elastic in a casing. • The nine nested sizes are color-coded, making each cutting line distinct. You can print only the size needed. • The directions are accompanied by…

The expression “a picture is worth a thousand words” is particularly true when it comes to fashion. It’s easier to develop and share ideas for sewing projects when you can draw a figure and sketch garment details. Fashion illustration is a fun process and an essential part of the fashion industry. Designers usually make sketches to help compose designs and to visually communicate their concepts to sewing staff. These illustrations play an important role in developing fashion collections. Pattern companies use fashion illustrations to show garment style variations and to inspire home sewers to purchase a pattern. Artists often create fashion illustrations for advertising campaigns and other promotions. These drawings are not a tool reserved for professionals, however. Anyone can use fashion sketches to hone their design ideas. Designers and…

When you’re working with lightweight fabrics, a French seam is often the finish of choice. But if there’s a side-seam vent, you need a way to neatly end the seam and create a sturdy, good-looking treatment at the top of the vent. I’ll show you a clever method. Try it with shirt-weight linen, cotton, and sheer fabrics—the very textiles that call for a light, clean finish. Avoid applying it to loose or open weaves, however: You’ll end up with a hole at the point of transition. The process shown is for a pattern with ⅝-inch-wide seam allowances, but you can adapt it as desired for wider allowances in the vent area. Ruth Cabble sews and teaches from Long Island, New York, and at LongIslandSewing.blogspot.com. 1 Thread-trace and sew the seam.…

From: Vintage Details: A Fashion Sourcebook (Laurence King, 2016); photographer: Stephen Sartori Source: The Sue Ann Genet Costume Collection, Syracuse University School of Design Text: Judith Neukam Adele Simpson successfully designed women’s fashions for 50 years. She brought couture techniques to the popular market and was honored with numerous design awards. This 1964 dress-and-jacket ensemble exemplifies her classic style, elegant craftsmanship, and thoughtful attention to detail. From meticulous lining and carefully planned proportions to bound buttonholes and a petersham belt with a bow, Simpson’s design is more than the sum of its parts. Learn more about the petersham belt on p. 24.…

As the coronavirus pandemic unfolded this year, sewing became vital to an expanded audience. The need for face masks created a call for skills and materials. I heard from retailers that sewing machines were sold out. An online pattern seller told me she sold four times her usual volume, particularly medical scrubs and pajama designs. A sewing entrepreneur shared that though her in-person classes were canceled, she kept her business afloat by selling narrow elastic. These are optimistic examples, however. It’s difficult to anticipate the impact on sewing and its rituals, from live classes and conferences to the fabric shopping experience. Now is the time to keep sewing valid and alive. If your next sewing class or conference was canceled, look for an online alternative from your favorite instructor. If…

Multifeatured steam iron Every sewing room requires an iron with practical features. The Velocity 260IR from Reliable has functions that fulfill many sewers’ needs. The iron’s soleplate is made from scratch-resistant, nonstick, anodized aluminum. The Velocity 260IR also has Reliable’s patented dual heating element and micropump technology. These enable it to turn the water to steam before it hits the soleplate, resulting in fewer leaks and less spitting, according to the manufacturer. It has an auto-shutoff feature that turns the iron off after eight minutes of inactivity. However, there is also an override function if you prefer the iron to stay hot. The water tank holds 9 ounces of water, and the iron includes a feature to make the most of the capacity: a “presence sensor” in the handle. When…

I can’t resist gorgeous, glitzy, over-the-top fabrics: slubby silk dupioni, embroidered silk organza, sumptuous velvet, anything shot with gold or silver threads. However, I don’t have many cotillions, galas, or awards shows on my social calendar. Rather than let this minor fact of life keep me from enjoying traditionally formal fabrics, I decided I would find ways to incorporate glamour into my everyday life. This idea took shape following the birth of my second son. I already had a toddler, so it seemed that I was doomed to spend my days in practical, washable T-shirts and sweatpants. Yes, a wardrobe of cotton knits was ultimately practical, but it was also boring. I splurged on a Donna Karan design, Vogue 2895 (unfortunately, now out of print) and some silk crepe de Chine.…

Garments always look better when their sleeves extend from the body so smoothly the attachment area looks nearly seamless. Even if you manage to control the sleeve-cap ease and avoid a puckered seamline, the sleeve cap may have empty space within, between the shoulder and upper arm, where the sleeve curves downward from the armscye seam. Instead of looking sculpted, the sleeve cap collapses, creating a hollow area; the armscye seam allowances may show through as a row of uneven lumps. This can happen in any garment, from a fluid silk blouse to a strictly tailored coat or jacket. One of the easiest and most successful ways to solve this problem is by supporting the sleeve cap with a well-designed sleeve head. This simple tailoring technique is often overlooked in…

Invisible zippers are my preferred closure, as they provide a clean, bulk-free finish. They are usually inserted by machine sewing with a special foot designed to hold the zipper coil away from the tape while stitching. While this method works on most fabrics, I frequently work with specialty fabrics where machine sewing is not the best option. Here’s a method of installing an invisible zipper by hand. This approach has many advantages. It ensures perfect matching at any intersecting seams and there’s no danger of damaging, distorting, or stretching the fashion fabric. Some fabrics, such as guipure lace, are too highly textured to pass evenly under the presser foot. Slippery fabrics such as silk or velvet may shift during machine stitching. Wrestling a voluminous bridal gown or delicate lace dress…

LINING KICK PLEATS I’ve been a subscriber for many years, and the highlight of any month is when the latest issue lands in my mailbox. I love your how-tos—the artwork and photography are exceptional. Will you help me with instructions on how to line a basic kick pleat? In Threads #164, Dec. 2012/Jan. 2013, Pamela Leggett did an excellent piece on how to sew a kick pleat, which I’ve shared with many friends at sewing classes. But finding quality guidance on lining a basic kick pleat on a skirt or dress is hard to find. Pattern instructions are sketchy, and most other sources lack the clarity of the photography and drawings in Threads. Can you help? —Kathi Walton, via email Dear Kathi, Thank you for the kind words. Have you…

Online extras from this issue Watch and learn from a professional artist: In a new video, Yelen Ayé, author of “Fashion Illustration Basics,” p. 64, offers techniques for rendering fabrics and garment details in your own drawings. See how to guide fagoting stitches: Find out how to temporarily affix a cocktail stirrer to your sewing machine to guide delicate fagoting stitches, in a video supplement to “Embellishments: Fagoting simplified,” p. 20. Discover the advantages of sleeve heads: Contributing Editor Judith Neukam explains how and why to install this garment detail, in a video to accompany “Sleeve-Head Secrets,” p. 50. Garments in the round: Visit our website to enjoy a 360-degree look at a utilitarian and adorable jumpsuit from the article, “Jumpsuits That Work,” p. 44, by Vanessa Nirode. Threads Insider members can…

Adele Simpson’s dress-and-jacket outfit, shown on the back cover, features several delightful couture methods that give it star status. Each covered button displays a carefully placed woven square motif; the bound buttonholes are exquisitely narrow; the lining is lovely; and all the fine details are pulled together with an elegant ribbon belt, tied in a neat bow. The belt is made of petersham ribbon, which can be easily shaped with steam. Note that petersham, like grosgrain ribbon, has pronounced ribs perpendicular to the edges. However, petersham edges are scalloped, so the ribbon can be pressed into a slightly curved shape if the waistline needs it. For this belt, use 1½-inch-wide ribbon. You’ll need a large hook-and-eye set to fasten the belt. Optionally, you can add a fusible fleece support to…

Are you tired of the tug-of-war between fashion and function, between chic and comfortable? Many of my wardrobe planning clients find the easiest answer to balancing those benefits in jersey dresses. Sewn in spandex-blend solids or prints, they offer stretch, wrinkle resistance, washability, and figure flattery. One of my favorite jersey styles is the wrap dress, a classic since the 1970s. There are many patterns available for jersey wrap dresses, offering a variety of silhouettes that can work for any figure type. Jersey wrap dresses excel in the versatility department. Wear one to the symphony with dressy pumps, then to the grocery store with flats or sandals. Carry it into cooler weather with tights and boots or into summer with bare legs and flip-flops. Rely on one for a polished…