Innholdsfortegnelse for #208 - April-May 2020 i Threads Magazine

Which period of fashion inspires you most? KIMBERLY LARCOM (“Sports Bra Upgrades,” p. 50) says, “My favorite fashion period started in the 1970s with the emergence of Qiana knit fabric. I was quickly drawn to sewing with stretch fabrics for their silky feel and form-fitting nature. I found my niche and have never looked back. I sew for performers of all types: Celtic dancers, synchronized swimmers, ice skaters, gymnasts, and more.” Kimberly graduated from the Master Seamstress certificate program at the University of Rhode Island and owns her own custom activewear business. AstroSportswear.com BROOKS ANN CAMPER (“Essential Techniques: Thimble know-how,” p. 68) says, “In 1952, Christian Dior designed ‘La Cigale.’ In 1999, I was assigned to replicate it. I remember this graduate school project because it was when I first…

Measure crotch lengths accurately When making women’s pants, you need to know the correct front- and back-crotch lengths. Women have many di≠erent body types: flat derrières or protruding abdomens, and everything in between. Patterns often need to be adjusted accordingly. To measure these lengths accurately, use two tape measures. Remove the metal ends, abut the two tapes at zero, and tape them together. Add a length of string to hang a metal washer where the two tapes meet, and secure the washer in place. This enables you to see whether the tape is positioned properly, so that the measurement begins at your crotch’s lowest point. To use, center the tapes with the washer hanging straight down in the crotch area. Bring both tapes up to the waist for correct measurements.…

One of my favorite ways to add sophisticated embellishment to my garments is with Madeira appliqué. This detail is applied to a base fabric with the point de Paris stitch, also known as the pin stitch. The stitch creates pin-size holes in the base fabric around the appliqué. Madeira appliqué can be applied in two methods: traditional and reverse. The reverse method inserts decorative fabric in openings cut in the main garment fabric. It is possible to attach the appliqué by machine, as long as the machine has a Parisian stitch function. However, this article focuses on hand-sewing the appliqué. I will explain how to choose fabrics appropriate for this technique and take you through the process to create both styles of Madeira appliqué. Choose appliqué materials To achieve the…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern CamiMade: Mirage Culottes and Trousers (CamiMade.com) Easy to make and wear, these mid-calf or full-length wrap-style pants have identical front and back sections and a waistband with ties. The panels wrap around the waist and tie at center front and center back, so the panel corners meet. The side openings are more likely to expose the legs if the corners don’t come together. However, this may be preferred if the pants are worn as a cover-up. The crotch curve can be reshaped to alter the fit of the front and back. Mark the pants back so you put them on properly. Our tester recommends laying the…

Few sewers have an easy time of getting an ideal garment fit. If your measurements aren’t represented in the patterns you like, you may feel defeated before you begin. However, scaling standard-size patterns up to fit a curvy shape is possible, and it’s well worth the effort. With simple pattern adjustments, you can have clothes that fit you comfortably and reflect your personal style. You’ll start by taking a set of body measurements, which you’ll then compare to the pattern you’d like to sew. Add—or subtract—width and length to make the pattern echo your dimensions. Then consider your ease needs and preferences to ensure that the garment fits and drapes as intended. These changes bring a pattern into conformity with your overall size: You’ll be able to fit into the…

Adress form, especially one that has been custom-ized to resemble your figure, is an invaluable fitting A tool. However, a standard torso-only form doesn’t give you a complete picture. Whether you’re fitting a gar-ment or designing one, a dress form arm helps you see how a sleeve looks in relation to a bodice. You can purchase an arm for a dress form, but it’s easy and inexpensive to make one yourself. Better still, you can size it to your personal measurements. It’s the work of an afternoon to create one arm or a pair. Here’s my technique for measuring, drafting the pattern, sewing and stuffing the arm, and attaching it to a dress form. You’ll draft a sleeve pattern for the arm, which is shaped by a slight but realistic…

Paris designer Jacques Esterel is said to have translated mod style to haute couture during the 1960s and 1970s. His circa 1965 coat and dress ensemble evokes the freshness and modernity of the period. The coat has crisp contrasting edges and unique in-seam buttonholes, which even today can add sophistication to a range of garment styles. Learn methods for getting the same look, starting on p. 22.…

Treasuring the past My grandmother used a large cookie tin to hold mending notions. I was fascinated by the tools inside, though I did not understand their purpose. Among the mysterious items I found were many thimbles, but I thought the ones with tops were cups for Barbie, and the versions without tops were rings for the tip of your finger. As my sewing knowledge grew, I discovered what thimbles were. Only now, though, am I learning how to use them for efficient hand sewing, from “Essential Techniques: Thimble know-how,” by Brooks Ann Camper, p. 68. Notions, skills, and techniques continually resurface and circulate through family, friends, and the sewing community. We are in an age when there are compelling reasons to reexamine classic notions and techniques, as well as…

Pack your embroidery essentials An embroidery machine comes with many accessories. These are useful, but they're cumbersome to transport. The BlueFig Designer Series Embroidery Arm Bag is the solution. Shown in the embroidered songbird style, it has internal straps to hold a 23-inch embroidery unit, along with multiple hoops and other accessories. The outer pocket can hold stabilizer or thread spools, as well as any other tools you may need. The bag measures 21 inches wide, 23 inches high, and 7 inches deep, and it can be used for storage even when you’re not traveling. It comes in five styles, including taupe with an embroidered cherry blossom and vibrant red with an embroidered butterfly. More bag sizes are available in the Designer series to accommodate your sewing transportation needs. (BlueFig.net; $109.00)…

In the 1930s, the United States was in the midst of the Great Depression. Many Americans looked to Hollywood to escape the challenges of daily life. It wasn’t only the fantasy worlds of motion pictures that kept Americans going. The stars who graced silver screens across the country served up Tinseltown glamour through their costumes, and Americans became lost in the allure. So began Hollywood’s influence on the home sewer throughout the 20th century. The paper pattern industry, which was struggling to survive the Depression, saw an opportunity to capitalize on customers’ fascination with film stars. Home sewers could dress like the actresses they loved and feel as though they, too, were stars. THE HOLLYWOOD PATTERN COMPANY The Condé Nast Company developed and sold Vogue Patterns, which were priced between…

There are many great pleasures in my sewing practice that I originally resisted. One was the use of a thimble when hand sewing. A thimble felt awkward and in the way. However, a professor I encountered during my studies required me to wear a thimble for handwork. After a bit of practice, I was hooked. My thimble now feels like an extension of my hand and is possibly my most treasured sewing tool. I teach my own students—and encourage all sewers—to embrace the benefits and joys of wearing a thimble while hand sewing. A thimble enables you to use more of your hand while hand sewing, as opposed to simply pinching the needle between two fingers. When you have a thimble protecting the middle finger of your stitching hand, you…

Fashion is a powerful means of self-expression. For Vilma Mare, originally from Lithuania, her designs are an extension of her culture and her identity. She has a studio open to the public by appointment in Copake, New York. Much of her work is done in natural fibers—boiled wool and felt—and feature exposed seams and tucks for a deconstructed look. Vilma shows her work at craft shows around the country, in exhibitions around the world, and at www.VilmaMare.com. Her work has been featured in museums in Lithuania, France, Japan, and the United States. She received a Sustainability Award from the Smithsonian Institution’s Honoring the Future: Creating Climate SmART Communities research initiative in Washington, D.C., in 2018. Threads spoke with Vilma to learn more about her designs and how her Baltic origins…

Online extras More garment magic: See additional images of the presto-chango winning entries from “The Transformation Challenge,” p. 37. Measurement tables: Download a companion piece to “Fit a Curvy Figure,” p. 44, to make personalized records. Take a design for a spin: Optional bra shaping: Read a tutorial on how to include an interior pocket for a foam cup in this supplement to “Sports Bra Upgrades,” p. 50. Free videos: Quick-hit tutorials For easy fixes and creative ideas, watch the Threads Sewing Tips video series. A recent entry covers a way to sew fancier piping by adding decorative stitches. Watch the video “Decorate Your Piping” on our website or YouTube channel. Follow us on: The Threads Magazine Index can be found at ThreadsMagazine.com. Listen in Learn from the Threads editors and…

Rayon is a fabric made of regenerated cellulose from plant sources including wood pulp. While this fiber comes from natural sources, it is made with chemical processes, which puts it between the natural and synthetic worlds. There is some debate about the environmental impact of rayon fabrics. Other manufactured cellulose fibers, such as Tencel (lyocell) and modal, are considered more environmentally responsible. Rayon is cool to wear and takes dye well. Today’s rayons retain their shape, shrink and wrinkle less, and drape better than their predecessors. There are several types of rayon fabrics, each with its own qualities. Cuprammonium rayon, made in Switzerland and Germany, is more refined and has more weight than some rayons made in the United States; it feels more like three-ply silk. Rayon is suitable for…

Each year, Threads sets a design theme for the members of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. In 2019, we asked the competitors to express the idea that, just as caterpillars transform into butterflies, change is good. The garments and ensembles they created had to be wearable in at least two ways. Any piece that was taken off one view had to be included in the alternate view, and the transformation had to be made on the runway. The ASDP members devised many intriguing approaches to execute these metamorphoses, including making garments that are reversible, have interchangeable parts, are layered, or can be worn short or long. To assess the entries, Threads Editorial Director Sarah McFarland and Senior Technical Editor Carol J. Fresia were joined by previous challenge winner…

A flounce is a specific type of ruffle that lacks gathers or fullness at the top edge, where it attaches to the garment, but provides significant fullness at the bottom edge. This is typically achieved by cutting flounces as doughnut shapes. The inside edge of the doughnut is attached to the garment without gathers. Circular flounces always give a neat, somewhat predictable effect. By playing with shapes other than circles for the inside edge, outside edge, or both, you can achieve interesting effects. Changing the shapes produces varying degrees of drape, volume, and points. Experiment with different configurations to find out what suits your preferences. I’ll show you the math for figuring out the number of flounces you need for any area on a garment, but the process can be more…

In my home-based sewing business, I shorten more than 50 full-length prom, wedding, and wedding attendant gowns each year. Over time, I’ve developed a hemming technique that is efficient and yields smooth, even results, even on the challenging fabricstech-typical of formal dresses. I use key tools and supplies that make it easier to handle lightweight and slippery fabrics, so the finished hem is uniform and smoothly sewn. I like glass-head pins; Schmetz universal needles or universal nonstick needles, in size 70; Pellon Lite EZ-Steam II fusible tape in ¼-inch width; and Dritz Sewer’s Aid lubricant. You’ll also need sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and mat, an iron and ironing board, an adjustable dress form, and a sewing machine. With these basic items, you can confidently hem a special-occasion dress.…