Innholdsfortegnelse for #206 - December 2019-January 2020 i Threads Magazine

MARY FUNT (“Embellishments: Crystal clusters,” p. 22) says, “I’m currently interested in different methods of creating custom trim. Much of what is commercially available lacks the softness and quality found in couture garments. In addition to that, finding the perfect combination of colors in ready-made trims can be nearly impossible. I’m exploring different techniques such as weaving and beading.” Mary learned the basics of sewing from her mother and grandmothers. In addition to sewing for private clients, she now teaches individual and group lessons in couture sewing. CloningCouture.com IRENE MISCHKINIS (“Essential Techniques: Stitching templates,” p. 74) says, “I would love to learn to do free-motion stitching. I dream of quilted pieces that could be incorporated into jackets or other garments. I have tried, but I am much too stiff at the…

Recent couture shows featured garments with jeweled accents. I was inspired by looks from designers such as Alexander McQueen, Chanel, and Valentino, and I decided to develop my own method for re-creating these garments at a fraction of designer prices. My technique enables you to create positionable designs with no risk of damaging the fabric, as the motifs are fused to a backing fabric that is then sewn onto the garment. I’ll show you how to add this touch to your projects and elevate the looks to runway status. Look for inspiration. Recent collections by top design houses are wonderful sources, as are vintage jewelry and fancy buttons. Printed fabrics are another source of design inspiration. The cardigan embellished with jeweled insects, shown at right, was inspired by the print…

Knit garments are comfortable to wear and relatively quick to make. However, some sewers shy away from sewing with knits because of the clingy nature of lightweight or stretchy versions. My solution is to line my knit tops, dresses, skirts, and pants. I usually do not recommend lining the sleeves of tops or dresses, but knit jackets can benefit from a lined sleeve. A lining makes you feel more confident when wearing your knit garments, and it even has a slimming effect. The extra layer enables sheer knits to appear opaque without needing additional garments such as camisoles or slips. The added lining also can prevent static cling from affecting the outer garment layer. I love making knit garments, and those with a lining feel more substantial, hang better, and…

This lovely dress was sold by Maison Mendessolle, a couture retailer based in San Francisco in the first half of the 20th century. The gown, whose designer is unknown, was made in 1929 from silk tulle and taffeta. The skirt comprises six layers of tulle, and all are edged with bands of taffeta. The bands are cut on the bias to follow the skirt’s curved hemline. On each layer, one band serves as a facing to finish the hem edge. The other parallels it, adding weight to control the tulle’s tendency to flutter. Learn how to apply similar bands on an ultralight textile base, on p. 16.…

This issue features results from two diverse challenges that inspire us to elevate our skills. “Out-of-This-World Costumes,” pp. 34–39, by couture expert Claire B. Shae≠er, looks at the World of WearableArt show and exhibition in New Zealand. Over more than 30 years, this amazing event has become a tradition, and the entries push the boundaries of sewing techniques. For classic garments, turn to “Wool Winners 2019,” pp. 66–73, by Assistant Editor Erica Redfern. The annual Make It With Wool competition showcases tailoring and embroidery in luscious wool. The wonderful garments build a wardrobe any sewer would be proud of. This issue has plenty of departments and articles to show you exactly how to achieve great results on whatever you wish to sew. In “Add a Yoke for Fit,” pp. 60–65,…

Cashmere is made from the fine hair combed from the undercoats of cashmere goats. It is the top luxury fabric for softness, warmth without bulk, and breathability. Because it is expensive, cashmere is often blended with other fibers. High-quality cashmere does not wrinkle easily. Pure cashmere has no sheen. It is available in knits and wovens. Woven cashmere makes beautiful jackets or coats. Knitted cashmere makes luxurious sweaters, cardigans, clingy dresses, gored skirts, and bathrobes. Cashmere is costly, and ripping out stitches weakens the fabric. Make a muslin and test the pattern. Read on for additional ways to take good care of your cashmere investment. Sandra Betzina is the author of All New Fabric Savvy (The Taunton Press, 2017), from which this article is adapted. Preparation and cutting With cashmere,…

DP Studio: Long Asymmetric Skirt with Ruffle Detail Le 406 (DPStudio-Fashion.com) This midi skirt features an asymmetrical drape and curved seam at the front with an optional flounce. It has one front and two back waist darts, and a left-side invisible-zipper closure. The skirt is fitted from the waist to the upper hip and flares out to an A-line silhouette. The semicircular back panel curves around to the front, meeting the front panel curved seam. There are four pleats on the edge that attach to the curved front seam at the right hip. View A has a flounce set into the curved front seam that connects with the hemline flounce in view B, while view B has only a partial hemline flounce. The digital pattern does not include the measurement…

As the holidays draw near, the time has come to think about what you or the other sewing enthusiasts in your life might like as a gift. To help you get started with your shopping, we asked our editors, authors, and friends to share what they are hoping to receive this year. We’ve divided the list into three categories: Better basics, where you’ll find elevated tools for every level of sewer; Sewing literature, which includes books about sewing techniques and design; and Tools & technology, where you’ll find interesting machines and gadgets. Compiled by Threads assistant editor Erica Redfern. GOOD AS GOLD There are practical considerations in selecting the correct pins for a project, such as length, head, diameter, and point. Gold-plated pins from Merchant & Mills make me think…

Find out more from online extras 360-degree view: See every side of the Magnolia maxi dress by Deer and Doe Patterns, featured in this issue’s Pattern Review department. Additional photos and details: Discover additional views and close-ups of details from the beautifully constructed and embellished winning garments from the 2019 national Make It With Wool competition. Technique in the spotlight: Find an embroidery motif to create one of the sparkling floral appliqués seen in “Embellishments: Crystal clusters.” Online collection Sew holiday gifts and decorations Through the years, Threads has offered readers detailed instructions to make many creative gifts. Visit our holiday project collection and learn to sew handmade presents for your loved ones. These adorable felt ornaments originally appeared in Threads #182 (Dec. 2015/Jan. 2016). Online schedule First week of…

Silk tulle is extremely soft and sheer and it provides a different sewing experience from working with a woven fabric. Silk taffeta has a crisp hand, comes in a variety of weights, is tightly woven and, therefore, doesn’t drape much on grain. The 1929 dress shown here and on the back cover combines two fabrics with conflicting characteristics in an outstanding design that is 90 years old and still exquisite today. The taffeta bands serve as an exposed hem facing and a parallel decorative band for the dress’s multiple tulle layers. Although both fabrics have some body straight off the bolt, they soften with wear and hand washing. I’ll show you how to apply this delicate finish without marking, distorting, or otherwise damaging the wispy silk tulle. You can use…

WOW—the World of WearableArt—was a small show of wearable art, dance, and theater, when it was launched by Dame Suzie Moncrieff in 1987. Intended to promote an art gallery in Nelson, New Zealand, the first show was enjoyed by 200 people. Three years later, the WOW show opened in Wellington with 72 garments and a full house of 2,000. More than 30 years later, this extravagant fashion show is New Zealand’s largest theatrical production. It runs for three weeks in Wellington, and hosts more than 60,000 attendees. The production showcases avant-garde garments that are more art than clothing. AN INTERNATIONAL CONTEST The stage show is based on an international design competition that challenges participants to create a complete design from head to toe, and to explore a variety of designs,…

There are times when you really love a garment, and want it in another color or fabric. Or, the garment has worn out but you’re not ready to part with it. Instead of throwing it away or cutting it apart for a pattern, you can make a copy of it. I discourage cutting a garment apart to get a pattern. First, when the garment is intact, you can still wear it. More importantly, you can measure the finished seam lengths, hem allowances, and observe any construction details. Taking a garment apart stretches and distorts the pieces, resulting in a pattern that is less accurate. A method used in the industry to copy garments is called making a rub-off. I’ve devised a variation on the industry technique, in which I use…

Precision is something we sewers strive for, but occasionally we need a little help to achieve it. There is a tool you can make at home that ensures your stitching lines are straight, angled, or curved in just the right shape. I make stitching templates from basic file folders; you can also use oaktag or heavy card stock. These inexpensive, easy-to-make stitching guides can be customized to any seam shape you require. There’s no need to mark lines on delicate or textured fabrics, and the templates stabilize the work as you stitch along them. The same type of template works as a pressing guide, for straight, curved, or complex edge shapes. When a template gets a little worn around the edges, simply cut a new one. Irene Mischkinis is a…