Innholdsfortegnelse for #194 - December 2017-January 2018 i Threads Magazine

What is your favorite sewing tip to share? GAIL PATRICE YELLEN (“Specialty Serger Feet,” p. 56) says, “Spend a little more time to save a lot of time and love your results. Make samples to test your sewing machine or serger settings, check interfacing and fashion fabric compatibility, and practice any tricky techniques. Hand basting takes a few minutes but can save lots of time in the long run.” A resident of Glastonbury, Connecticut, Gail teaches sewing machine and serger classes across the country and on Craftsy. She wrote Serger Essentials: Master the Basics & Beyond! (Fons & Porter, 2015). Find her free Serger Tip Clips on YouTube. GailPatrice.com PAMELA LEGGETT (“Precise Edges on Collars & Lapels,” p. 32) says, “Try on the garment at every stage of construction. After…

Winter is the perfect time to elevate your wardrobe with sumptuous metallic fiber fabrics that have just a W hint, or a whole lot, of shimmer. Metallic fabric is a general term for any textile that has metal as a component, and it covers a wide range of choices. The fibers may be knitted, woven, or embroidered onto fabrics for decorative effect. Combined with other fibers such as polyester, nylon, rayon, silk, wool, and cotton, metallic fibers can be found in fabrics of different weights. Popular metallics include lamé (French for “spangled”), brocade and matelassé, lace, sheers, stretch lamé, metallic knits, and tricot. HISTORICAL SPARKLE Precious metals, including gold and silver, have been woven into cloth since Biblical times. Royal garment makers used these to adorn the clothing of kings,…

Kumihimo, the art of Japanese braiding, is simple to learn and even easier to get hooked on. There are innumerable variations, and a change of braiding material further multiplies the options for beautiful results. Once you learn some basic techniques, you’ll find it’s impossible to make an unattractive cord. Traditionally, kumihimo is done with weighted threads on a tall wooden stand with a ring-shaped top, called a marudai. The braiding is performed sitting cross-legged on the floor, with arm movements reminiscent of a beautiful and thoughtful dance. Today, foam disks with grooves cut into the perimeter to support the yarns and ribbons can stand in for the marudai. This lovely art form is portable and useful for creating cords to make frogs, loops, ball buttons, and other closures. I’ll show…

A sloper is a pattern with minimal wearing ease, so it fits like a second skin. A full sloper consists of a darted bodice, set-in sleeves, a straight skirt, and, in some cases, a pant. It is used without seam allowances as a guide for drafting or fitting patterns. Seam allowances are added to the finished pattern. Different names are used to describe similar patterns, such as moulage, basic pattern, master pattern, fit pattern, foundation pattern, or block. For the purist, there are subtle differences among them. The distinctions have to do with the amount of ease built into the pattern. I see little value in drafting a fitting pattern without wearing ease. Most commercial pattern companies start with a “block” in a midrange size to design their new silhouettes, and…

Patterns: Triangulate the Tee and Stockbridge Skirt (both modified) by Gail Patrice Design. Fabrics: Top, rayon spandex jersey; skirt, plainweave linen. hether you’re a serger novice, expert, or somewhere in-between, specialty feet and attachments for your machine can help you look like a pro. They may seem mys terious and intimidating, but with information about how and when to use them and a little practice, you’ll wonder how you ever did without them. What’s more, you can learn multiple uses for these attachments: Even if a foot is named for a specific purpose, there may be additional creative uses for it. In this article, as well as a follow-up article in the next issue, I’ll show you the specialty serger feet I enjoy working with and my insights into their…

have a question? Send it to us and we’ll find an expert’s answer. Threads Q&A PO Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 or via email: ThreadsQ&A@taunton.com Find a separating invisible zipper I’m making a two-piece formal gown with a closely fitted top. I’d like an invisible closure but can’t find a separating invisible zipper. Are these available? —Martina Auerbach, Savannah, Georgia A Threads Senior Technical Editor Carol J. Fresia has looked around, and this is what she found: Yes, there is such a thing as an invisible separating zipper, and it’s an excellent solution for the center-back seam of a fitted top. You may need some help zipping it, but it’s certainly easier and less obtrusive than buttons, hooks, or a standard separating zipper. The sources below carry what you’re looking for…

Finding time to sew Before you read further, know that I do not have the answer to a problem we share! I am writing this in the last week of September. I have a fantastic Halloween costume planned, and some of the staff have also committed to sharing our costumes on Instagram. (Plus, check ThreadsMagazine.com this month for a blog post about our team’s best and worst costume-sewing experiences.) Before I can even begin that project, however, I need to finish a knit dress to wear to the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals conference, mid-October in Orlando, Florida. Senior Technical Editor Carol J. Fresia and I are attending to judge the Knits Challenge, this year’s ASDP/Threads sewing competition. (You will see the winning garments and read Carol’s coverage of…

A simple frock becomes a standout with a few intriguing details. A petal (or tulip) sleeve replaces a more mundane straight sleeve, and rows of biastube loops add texture and visual interest. Learn how to draft the pattern so you can emulate this sleeve shape. A petal sleeve is usually cut above the elbow. However, it can also be cut as a long sleeve if closures are used along the open edges, such as frogs, ties, or even buttons. This is an attractive sleeve that has the bonus of nicely fitting a heavy upper arm. Contributing Editor Judith Neukam enjoys bringing forgotten sewing techniques up-to-date. 1 Start with a one-piece set-in sleeve pattern. Trace two copies. Mark the notches, dots, and shoulder point. Measure 1½ inches to one side of the…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern New Look 6471 (Simplicity.com) Look to this blouse pattern offering classic details with a contemporary flair. It has raglan sleeves, a gathered neckline that can be made with or without a collar that ties on the left side, and an option for a longer back hemline. The neckline opening is in the left-front raglan seam. Darts on the sleeve cap give an attractive fit without bulk. The long sleeves are gathered into narrow bias cuffs, and the short-sleeve version has the versatility of a T-shirt with a professional, polished look. The instructions are clear, concise, and helpful. Our seamstress recommends sewing the long sleeve cuff by…

Pattern: author’s design, Etsy.com/shop/MaisonPamela. Fabric: denim and lamé, author’s stash. To enhance a zipper closure on outerwear, consider backing it with a wind guard, a fabric strip that acts as a shield behind the zipper teeth. When the zipper is closed, the guard prevents wind from blowing through the teeth; when the zipper is fully or partially open, the guard is a design element. Make the guard in a contrasting color or material such as leather, satin, or velvet; or add decorative stitches or other embellishment. (Keep the decoration low profile so the guard lies flat when the zipper is closed.) The guard can be the same length as the zipper, shorter than the zipper, or continue past the zipper bottom to finish at the garment’s hemline. Adding a wind…

New sewing tools dance through holiday dreams of every sewer. Here, the Threads staff and key contributors share a selection of worthy items and experiences for sewing enthusiasts. The list includes items at varied price points, from stocking stuffers to deluxe gifts. We think you will love these recommendations, whether they are to give or to add to your personal wish list. Enjoy! Compiled by Threads Associate Editor Aimee N. Seaver. Luxe thread conditioner I do a lot of hand sewing for my historical costume-making hobby, as well as some hand finishing for modern clothes. When I don't have access to an iron and beeswax to condition my thread, my go-to is actually sold as a moisturizer: Bee Bar Lotion by Honey House Naturals. It’s a solid cake that comes…

In downtown Ithaca, New York, SewGreen is a not-for-profit organization focused on reuse, sustainable practices, and the empowerment of young people through the development of life skills. In 2007, Wendy Skinner launched SewGreen (SewGreen.org) with a handful of volunteers after discovering an upsurge of interest in reuse and DIY fashion. SewGreen currently offers sewing classes for all ages; summer sewing camps; a robust youth volunteer, apprenticeship, and job program; and a store stocked with high-quality, donated sewing supplies and fabric. There’s even a boutique, which sells gently used Eileen Fisher garments. Wendy has found, however, that SewGreen is more about people and a connection to the community than it is about the “stuff.” Th r e a d s recently spoke to Wendy to find out more about the evolution…

BEST TIP Improvised sleeve form Recently, I was trying to figure out a complicated sleeve inspired by designer Rick Owens. After spending too many hours manipulating a flat pattern, I knew I needed to work with fabric on a model. I don’t have an arm for my dress form, but I have made several jackets with two-piece sleeves. I took two jackets, put them on the dress form, slipped one sleeve inside the other, and stu≠ed it with polyester fiberfill. Bingo! I had an instant arm to drape on. I finally figured out a sleeve I had been wondering about for a couple of years. As I get more into draping, I will make a proper dress form arm, but in a pinch, my solution worked perfectly. —Laurie Boisvert, Port Joli,…

A high-quality collar and lapel can make any jacket appear to be a designer garment. Precisely placed seams along the edges of these details enhance a jacket’s overall appearance. When using traditional sewing methods, it is difficult to ensure that the seamlines roll out of sight, while defining a sharp contour around the collar and along the lapel above and below the roll line. I’ll show you a wrapping technique that produces impeccably shaped lapels and nicely set collars. The wrapped corner technique ensures that all points match and you don’t have to fuss to get the seams to roll to the underside. This approach also eliminates hand basting. Read on to learn the seaming, grading, and pressing sequence that simplifies jacket construction and results in a beautiful finished garment. Once…

Most of us are familiar with the 1960s—the elegance of First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, followed by the excitement and upheaval of the Beatles, the Vietnam War and women’s lib demonstrations, the Civil Rights movement, Woodstock, Lucille Ball, Janis Joplin, and Bob Dylan. We also recognize the clothes of the era—miniskirts, tie-dyed shirts, pop-art shifts, caftans, and wild colors—but we rarely consider how historical events influenced these fashions. Mod New York: Fashion Takes a Trip, a major exhibition at the Museum of the City of New York, officially opens November 22, 2017. Unlike most fashion exhibitions, which focus only on garments and garment design, Mod New York looks closely at the political, artistic, and social benchmarks of the 1960s that influenced design, the fashion industry, and merchandising. The Museum of the…

Sewing is a valuable skill, and you can turn your ability into a profitable enterprise. Perhaps you sew for yourself, family, and friends right now, but people have mentioned you should go into business, or you had the thought unprompted. If you are an accomplished seamstress or tailor, you may be ready for your own shop. For 30 years, I have run my sewing business and helped others start their own. There are many aspects to setting up any business, and I know of specific requirements for the sewing trade. I will help you navigate getting-started questions such as: What are the first steps you should take? Where can you find resources? These are some of the fundamentals of working profitably as a sewing professional. You have the talent, so…

You love your dress, and it looks great in the mirror. You head out the door to live life: working, shopping, or eating out. You bend down to get something and suddenly realize the whole world can see your bra—or even worse—right to your belly button. In today’s fashion there are many neckline styles that make gaping a common problem. A gaping neckline can be an issue with draped, curved, and V-necklines alike. I’ll show you three approaches to keeping the neck edge close to the body so you don’t show off more than you intend. Ruth Ciemnoczolowski is a professional costumer, author, sewing instructor, and stylist for films and commercials. Stick with tape Body tape keeps your clothing from moving in different situations. There are many varieties on the…

Making a few cosmetic changes to a basic pattern is an economical way to create a new look for a favorite design. Just such a pattern hack may have been the origin of this 1930s dress. Its simple silhouette was updated by lowering the neckline and filling the space with self-fabric tubes, and changing the sleeve. The standard short sleeve was converted to a petal (or tulip) style, then trimmed with self-fabric cord scallops that echo the neckline embellishment. See how to adapt a pattern to make this sleeve shape on p. 18.…