Innholdsfortegnelse for #184 - April-May 2016 i Threads Magazine

MARTYN SMITH (“Embellishments: Scalloped piping,” page 24) is influenced by portability. “I love fabric, but after moving between cities and countries a few times in my life, I’m not a great hoarder any longer. I’m ruthless in regards to buying and making up fabric. If it’s still in my stash after two years, I give it away. I recently donated my whole quilting cotton stash to charity. I can now start afresh.” Martyn, a trained tailor and patternmaker, was a long-time lecturer in Apparel Technology at a New Zealand fashion institute. He was formerly the general manager for Kwik Sew Patterns Australia, and is now with Echidna Sewing Products, based in Brisbane, Australia. ANN GROSE (“Zipper Disguise,” page 55) favors her textiles. “My fabric stash is more precious to me.…

This issue’s winner receives: ■ Threads Sew Smarter, Better & Faster from the Editors, Contributors, and Readers of Threads. You’ll find 894 sewing tips, fitting fixes, and handy techniques to make your sewing easier and more efficient. This all-in-one resource is bursting with garment-sewing advice. It’s organized in an easy-to-navigate format for quick reference or leisurely reading. ($24.95) ■ Quick-to-Sew Pants by Louise Cutting. Imagine pants you can sew tonight and wear tomorrow. Threads contributing editor Louise Cutting shares techniques for making comfortable one-seam and slip-on pants in this 104-minute DVD. Louise explains her streamlined method for sewing fabulous-fitting pants easily, including options for a variety of leg styles. ($24.95) ■ Teach Yourself to Sew Season 5 by Judith Neukam and Stephani L. Miller. Plan for a perfect fit with the fifth in…

A self-fabric piping or decorative trim can add considerable interest to an otherwise ordinary neckline, armhole, or other edge. This sweet scalloped piping is easy to create with the blind-hem stitch or shell-hem stitch on your sewing machine. This piping effect works on knits and wovens, for dressy or casual garments. It’s particularly attractive on cotton, satin, handkerchief linen, and soft silk. Made from cotton knit or jersey and used to finish a T-shirt, it takes on a relaxed, cute vibe. Fabrics that are thick, bulky, or stiff don’t give the desired effect because they resist being shaped by the stitch. However, you may be able to enhance the effect by increasing the needle thread tension on your machine. A spongy filler, such as wadding or acrylic yarn, also makes it…

This simple dress has surprises in store. Plain white, with four dark buttons to punctuate its straight silhouette, it presents an effortless, even timeless, impression. Examine the dress closely and discover that its designer made every line of stitching count. Each seam serves for subtle adornment as well as for construction. The dress, a single layer of linen, is almost devoid of understructure and is sewn entirely with a machine straight stitch (save for the buttons and hem). Unlike many garments of this era, this one has no hidden layers hand-stitched invisibly in place. Some of its details are briefly explained on the facing page, so you can adapt them for your own garments. The dress fabric is handkerchief linen, but other woven fabrics work equally well. Consider trying these…

At Threads, we are always eager to celebrate sewing ingenuity and creativity—from the Reader’s Closet department in each issue to our annual coverage of sewing challenges. During the 2015 American Sewing Guild Conference in San Diego, California, we singled out a winner from the member runway show. It was an Asian-themed suit created by Marge Mitchell of the Material Girls Neighborhood Group, Central Savannah River Chapter, in South Carolina. With the help of Sew News magazine editor Ellen March, Threads special project editor Stephani Miller and I selected the Editors’ Choice outfit from the many wonderful garments entered in the show. From our front-row seats, the judging group could gauge the fit and design of the asymmetrical reversible jacket, straight skirt, and sleeveless shell. On closer inspection after the show,…

Striped Dress by Lavanya Kalaisejiane For Lavanya Kalaisejiane of Bellevue, Washington, designing and sewing dresses is a passion. Though she has a degree in computer engineering, she also studied dressmaking and design. She says she loves to create garments that suit young petites. In designing this dress, Lavanya drafted a pattern that was inspired by McCall’s 7084. She chose a 100-percent cotton striped fabric. The bodice has princess seams, with the center panels cut on the cross-grain and the two side panels cut on the bias. For the skirt, the godets are cut on the bias, with the stripe orientations mirrored on opposite sides. Cutting the stripes correctly posed a challenge, but Lavanya says she enjoyed the process. Her experience with sewing shirts for her sons and husband came in…

On the way to my weekly Messies Anonymous meeting (yes, there is such a group), I like to stop at the recycling center in an effort to further rid myself of clutter. One day, when I started to unload a trunk full of plastic, glass, and newspapers, I noticed an old sewing machine sitting in front of the Dumpster. Somewhat guiltily, I picked up the remarkably heavy, possible dud by the handle, lugged it into the back seat, and proceeded to the Messies meeting. After I confessed to my acquisition, many members wanted to know where I found the machine, what kind it was, and where they, too, could get in on a deal like I’d stumbled upon. You see, many of my fellow Messies also like to sew. On…

EDITOR’S NOTE Some clutter permitted Lately, doesn’t it seem as if everyone has read, is reading, or plans to read, a decluttering book? It is life-changing to clean out your home and focus on key items. As smart as it is, however, I don’t think I can apply decluttering to my sewing supplies. Sewers have special criteria about what is necessary and what brings us joy. A perfect example is in this issue’s Closures tale. It begins with the author saving a broken vintage sewing machine from the garbage, while on her way to a decluttering support group. I have an ongoing internal conflict about what is essential among my sewing equipment and supplies. How can I get rid of a specialized tool when I know it’s the best choice…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern McCall’s 7196, tops and tunics (McCall.com) These loose-fitting pullover tops have scoop necklines finished with narrow bias binding, a left side bust dart, and focal pleats on the right front. There are four views, and the lengths reach lower hip or upper thigh. The hemlines are straight, or asymmetrical with a pointed front, and all feature a narrow, machine-sewn hem. There are three sleeve options: sleeveless and finished with a narrow bias facing, short sleeves, or below-elbow-length sleeves. Two views contain a horizontal tuck that falls 2½ inches below the waist. Textiles suggested for this design are lightweight fabrics that drape, such as crepe de Chine,…

Achieving a quality finish on projects made from vinyl fabric can be challenging, but with the right methods and professional tricks, you can realize great results. Vinyl’s versatility, low cost, and durability make it a replacement for certain natural materials, such as leather, and it frequently turns up in fashion collections and in home décor. Chemically, vinyl is a form of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), but the term “vinyl” is used as a generic name for any fabric with a plastic consistency or nonfiber feel. Regardless of the chemical composition, vinyl-type fabrics are ideal for accessories, rainwear, avant-garde clothing, and cosplay outfits. Fabric retailers carry everything from clear tablecloth vinyl, chalkboard cloth, and laminated cotton prints to pleather, faux leather, and synthetic oilcloth. The majority of these fabrics are made…

It’s a rare individual who fits into a commercial pattern without adjustments. Among the most common fit challenges I see in students and clients are forward shoulders, a forward neck, and a rounded upper back. The effects of time on the body can emphasize these issues. Whether slight or pronounced, postural variations can make your clothes hang awkwardly and feel uncomfortable. Even if you don’t consider yourself “mature,” you may have some of these fitting problems, particularly if you work at a desk every day. I’ll show you how to recognize these fitting problems, and then how to make easy pattern changes to resolve them. By sewing your own garments, you can have clothes that look, fit, and feel better than even pricey ready-to-wear clothing. Louise Cutting is a designer…

Despite your best efforts, a fabric print occasionally can end up in undesirable arrangements on a garment. Perhaps the main motif is cut off at a seam in a prominent place or is positioned atop an area that requires no emphasis or creates an unfortunate visual effect. When print motifs are spaced far apart, you also may get an unintended blank space, where the pattern cutting creates a gap in the print. Luckily, poor print placement is an easy cutting mistake to mitigate, because there is nothing to repair; the fix is more like applying a Band-Aid on a boo-boo. As long as you have enough fabric leftover to provide a few full print motifs, you can fix this problem. The solution is appliqué. Stephani L. Miller is special projects…

This timeless dress would earn style kudos from nearly a century of fashionistas. The style may be from the 1920s or ’30s, but, with minor adjustments, it could work in almost any decade. At first glance, the spare silhouette is free and fresh, with an unusual collar shape echoed in the pockets and waist seamlines. A closer assessment reveals a masterful pairing of design and abundant, precise construction details. Learn more on page 32.…

BEST TIP Learn by deconstruction Sometimes, when I am learning how to sew a new design detail, it is helpful to deconstruct part of a completed garment to see how that detail was sewn by another seamstress or by a clothing manufacturer. For example, when I was learning how to sew a placket, I visited my local thrift store and scoured the clothing racks for a shirt with a placket similar to the one I wanted to sew in my top. By taking the placket apart, I was able to see how it was sewn and gained a better understanding of how I should sew mine. Since the top cost me only a couple of dollars, I feel that I received a relatively inexpensive sewing lesson. —Carolyn Thomas, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada…

Sew this pretty purse or handy pouch in less than an hour with a little fabric, some fusible batting, and an optional closure. The dimensions of the fabric squares you start with determine the maximum bag height and width, but you can customize the size and shape. The samples shown are nearly square, but you can make pouches that are perfectly square or shaped like a letter envelope. Use the tucked-in corners as interior compartments for keys, phone, lipstick, wallet, and more. Your essentials are stored safely without a zipper because the overlapping flaps conveniently hide your possessions. Dana Finkle, a former Threads assistant editor, teaches and writes about sewing techniques. 1 Decide how large you want the bag. The featured 9-inch by 7-inch bags start with 18-inch fabric squares.…

Petersham ribbon can be used in many sewing applications for every kind of garment, from a pair of suit trousers to a red-carpet-worthy gown. This essential notion is so useful in the sewing room, whether or not projects are couture, that every sewer should keep a variety of widths on hand. Petersham is strong and durable, with a firm hand, soft feel, stable grain, and a consistent width. I’ll show you 18 ways to use petersham ribbon in your sewing. PETERSHAM VS. GROSGRAIN Some sewers confuse or equate petersham and grosgrain ribbons. They have similar physical characteristics, but different capabilities. Both grosgrain and petersham ribbons have woven cross-grain ribs. The most apparent difference is that grosgrain ribs terminate in two solid edges, whereas petersham ribs are continuous and form two…

Invisible zippers are hidden closures that keep garments looking neat, clean, and unfussy. But they’re not strong enough to work in heavy garments, those with bulky layers, or those that have a snug fit. A standard zipper with a centered or lapped installation is preferable because it is stronger. Luckily, there is a way to install a standard zipper in a centered opening without visible stitching lines, so you can maintain the invisible-zipper effect with the benefit of a strong, sturdy closure. The key is to use a blind-hem stitch, and here’s how to do it. Ann Grose teaches sewing and fashion design. She owns and operates the Designer Stitch School of Fashion and Design in Victoria, Australia. DesignerStitch.com.au. Prepare the seam and baste the zipper Basting is critical for…

For decades, brides have drifted down the aisle in a romantic cloud of tulle, and prom girls—not to mention debutantes—have worn ladylike dresses with fluffy net skirts. Tulle skirts are classic for dressing up, and now they’re having a high-fashion moment. Learn to build a full, fluffy tulle skirt in the color and silhouette you prefer, with materials you can purchase affordably online or from an independent or chain fabric store. I’ll show you how to cut the tulle panels and how to assemble the skirt. TULLE SCHOOL Tulle is a sheer, net fabric. It’s made in a range of fibers, from silk to cotton to synthetics, but nylon is the most readily available, as well as the most affordable. You’ll find it in a wide variety of colors and…