Roughly as big as Hertfordshire or Surrey, the island of Lesbos – Greece’s third largest – sits more than 12 hours by ferry from Athens, just off the coast of Turkey. Consequently, it was at the centre of the 2015 migrant crisis, and still hosts migrant camps. It doesn’t see hordes of tourists, however, says Antonia Quirke in Condé Nast Traveller, and has a refreshing lack of the upmarket shops and general “swank” that are found elsewhere in the Aegean. Its capital, Mytilene, is a working port town, home to 60,000 people, with a “relaxed and egalitarian thrum”, and its villages have a “robustly blue-collar” air. You might not describe the island as “pretty”, but I would say it is better than that – it’s “magnificent”: wild mountains, ancient ruins,…