Walcot House 90B Walcot Street, Bath (01225-530499)
In its previous incarnation, Walcot House was a “nightspot called Cadillacs”, fondly remembered as the “crappiest nightclub in Bath”, says Tom Parker Bowles in The Mail on Sunday. Now, the “sticky carpets have been ripped out, the disco ball retired”, and the “vast, breezily cavernous space” turned into an extremely civilised restaurant. The cooking “mixes English ingredients with French technique” – very much the hallmark of the great West Country and South Wales chef Stephen Terry, who is a clear influence here. Cornish fish soup is “boozy, swaggering”, the croutons covered in Westcombe cheddar and “the aioli packing a pungent punch”. Asparagus, the first of the season, comes “draped in hollandaise”. For mains, there’s a “generous slab” of perfectly pink venison, and a…
