Kokum 58-60 East Dulwich Road, London SE22 (020-3551 1883)
Sanjay Gour is a former head chef of Gymkhana, the restaurant in central London that was a “gamechanger” for Indian dining in Britain, says Grace Dent in The Guardian. No surprise, then, that Kokum, his latest venture, in southeast London, is also terrific. On the “wettest, windiest winter Wednesday imaginable”, we find the place nearly full – which is testament to Gour’s subtle, flavourful cooking. From the menu’s small plates section, we try the uthappam – a “kind-of dosa” – made with fermented rice batter, and topped with a rich, meaty stew, as well as “deceptively spicy” pani puri. The mains, while more traditional than the starters, are made with the same seriousness: “prawns are made lively with lime leaf, coconut…
