Jam Delish 1 Tolpuddle Street, London N1 (jamdelish.co.uk)
This new restaurant on an Islington backstreet is noteworthy for a couple of reasons, says Grace Dent in The Guardian. First, it’s far from the sort of “laughably expensive, 200-seater” that investors seem mainly to back these days. And secondly, it serves vegan Jamaican food – which is highly “unusual” in Britain. In my experience, vegan food often looks “utterly delicious”, yet tastes “like polystyrene”. But at Jam Delish, everything we eat, from the fried “chicken” with ackee and green lentils to the Caribbean tacos made with glazed tofu “codfish”, is very good indeed – “hearty, spicy, accomplished and memorable”. As each dish arrived, I kept asking: “But how? How is this happening without butter, cream, stock or, well, meat?” Clearly, the…
