Claude Bosi at Bibendum Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, Chelsea, London SW3 (020-7581 5817)
Claude Bosi, who has taken over at this Chelsea stalwart, has held Michelin stars for the past 17 years, says Michael Deacon in The Daily Telegraph. “Soon, I suspect, he’ll have another.” For the cookery here is highly Michelin-friendly: “exquisite, subtle, technically exemplary”, but also somehow “evanescent. It’s there, and then suddenly it’s gone, in a couple of mouthfuls, before you’ve properly got to grips with it.” Before our starters arrived, we were presented with no fewer than six amuse-bouches – from “an olive that exploded like a grenade the moment it touched the tongue, to an ice-cream cone the size of your pinkie”. Our starters of veal sweetbread and duck jelly were themselves “tiny,…
