Of all the year’s exciting moments, there is nothing quite as blood-summoning as taking a table at Bellamy’s in August. As usual, Gavin Rankin — one of the last of the patrons mange ici — bids you “what-ho”, and Luigi comes with the menu. At this time of year, of course, there is a notable adjustment: grouse has been added, with a warning (may contain shot).
Aside from the mighty pleasure of carving one’s own bird to the bone à table, tucking into the strong, smoky meat, and drinking something wonderful with it — for me it’s a Diet Coke, though having consulted my learned colleague and The Rake’s wine expert, Georgie Fenn, a 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet pinot noir would work well, too — the story of how the bird reached…
