The West Village restaurant Le B., operated by the veteran New York chef Angie Mar, was, until a few months ago, Les Trois Chevaux, Mar’s homage to the mid-century French haute cuisine of places like Lutèce and La Côte Basque. With a pricey prix-fixe menu and a jackets-required dress code, Les Trois Chevaux drew a well-heeled uptown crowd. As Le B., the physical space has hardly changed—there’s still the gilded bar mirror, the velvet banquettes, the curtained alcoves. But the menu is now à la carte, and there’s a burger at the bar that harks back to Mar’s restaurant before last, the Beatrice Inn, an over-the-top, basement-level chophouse.
Still, a bid for a more downtown vibe does not mean that things skew to the proletarian. Nearly every dish incorporates a…