In her 1976 book, “The Taste of Country Cooking,” the late, great chef Edna Lewis wrote that, in her home town of Freetown, Virginia, a farming community founded by former slaves, “ham held the same rating as the basic black dress. If you had a ham in the meat house, any situation could be faced.” André Mack has a ham in the meat house, and then some. In January, Mack, a sommelier and winemaker who once ran the beverage program at Per Se, opened & Sons, a “ham bar,” in Prospect-Lefferts Gardens, with a menu offering no fewer than ten different country hams, all sourced domestically, plus American-made wines (including bottles from his own label, Maison Noir, out of Oregon), cheeses, and other charcuterie. And then, just as he was…