RECENTLY, A FRIEND WHO IS HOUSE-HUNTING LAMENTED that houses don’t look like houses anymore. Rather, they look like hotel lobbies or Airbnbs, or the “after” result of one of those renovation TV shows that take a house full of people’s stuff and turn it into a hotel lobby or an Airbnb. This spring, in a superb essay, “Merchandizing the Void,” that appeared in the online feminist journal Dilettante Army, Kelly Pendergrast expounded on the strange, hyperorganized, almost retail-like environment of the contemporary pantry (think Khloé Kardashian’s). Noting the proliferation of Excel-grid-like shelving systems displaying accumulated wares in the aspirational kitchens of today, she describes a turn toward the “logistical imaginary” in the home: Luxury pantries, not incidentally, resemble distribution centers.
Pendergrast argues that because delivery has almost completely supplanted in-store…
