A COMBINATION of dried fruit, animal fat, sugar, spices and pastry, the mince pie is a product that is profoundly weird but at the same time such an integral part of a British Christmas that we sometimes forget what a strange little treat it is. This month, hundreds of thousands will knead, roll, grate, zest and bake their own mince pies, possibly using a recipe handed down from generation to generation. Or, just as likely, using one from Nigella Lawson or Delia Smith searched for on the internet.
Millions more, however, will pop to the shops. Because mince pies, curiously, have become a weapon in a very modern battle between supermarkets. In the cut-throat consumer economy, grocery chains pour vast resources and effort into creating the most exciting, eye-catching variety…