A bus containing European tourists drives up a dirt track in rural Zambia. It stops, and its passengers disembark to be greeted by the sight of a group of old women, seated in the dust, their faces powdered white and their bodies attached to heavy wooden reels, suspended on poles, by long white ribbons. This, we’re told by a softly spoken guide, is a witch camp. The ribbons, the guide continues with unnerving matter-of-factness, are merely a protective measure to stop the old women from flying away and practising their craft.
This is the opening scene of Rungano Nyoni’s arresting debut feature I Am Not a Witch . The camp clearly holds a foreign appeal for those trigger-happy western tourists, but Nyoni, raised in Wales, born in Zambia, is playing…