THE AROMA OF garlic, onions, and lemon wafts outside a grand building with pagoda eaves in Southeast Houston. It’s a Friday evening in April at the Vietnamese Martyrs Church, and more than a dozen people toil over large, bubbling boil pots at the church’s annual crawfish festival. A messy, wet nap-reliant tradition since 2002, the event has grown from a respectable 5,000-person crowd to this year’s massive gathering, where nearly 15,000 attendees will consume more than 22,000 pounds of crawfish over a span of three days.
Digging into plastic bags dusky with seasoning, the crowd happily cracks and claws at Viet-Cajun crawfish, a style that combines Cajun spices with Southeast Asian flavors. “After we cook, we dump it out on a big pan,” says festival organizer Tinh Trinh, describing the…
