Innholdsfortegnelse for #368 - Spring 2023 i Surfing Life

Jingeri Jimbelung [Hello, my friends]. These welcoming words are in the Yugambeh language of the Kombumerri people, one of the many clans in the Gold Coast region. Thumb the pages of each quarterly publication to unearth Six Pillars, the foundation of every surfing life: Travel, Surfers, Culture, Waves, Technique, and Boards. Spring, sandwiched between winter and summer, is a transitional season short for springtime or springtide1 meaning, “A tide just after a new or full moon, when there is the greatest difference between high and low water.”2 This is why spring or springtide symbolises a significant change, rebirth or a new season of growth. Winter’s shadow edges north, leaving the Southern Hemisphere to warm in the sun’s glow. In most locations worldwide, it’s usually flat; spring doesn’t bring swell. Why?…

Lennix Smith is going places—metaphorically and literally. This year, he has travelled to Western Australia, Fiji, Bells Beach, Indonesia and Tahiti. Despite all the exciting people, exotic locations and incredible waves he’s encountered on his journeys, Lennix is always drawn back to his original training grounds, the South Coast slabs, which pummelled him into the surfer he is today. Since Lenny’s release from high school’s shackles at the end of last year, is he finding new freedom? “Not that I was really at school,” Lennix muses. “I got pretty lucky. The school I was at was a sports high [school], and they were sweet with all the time off. But, it’s heaps better not having to worry about all the work and stuff,” he quickly adds. Gromhood in NSW’s Central…

Aren’t all surf reports self-explanatory? Don’t you just jump online, and the expert at the other end tells you everything you need to know? Well, yes and no. Most of the data they send through is accurate and on point. However, if you want to score that perfect offshore and out-of-the-blue swell, you’ll need a little more understanding to add to what they tell you. Firstly, you need to know your local spot’s nuances: What direction does the beach face? What is the best swell and wind direction? Or if you have a small valley that will push the wind offshore when predicted onshore, and so on. It would be best if you were privy to this to score previously mentioned out-of-nowhere fun sessions. Or if you live some distance…

Our Board Bible wouldn’t be possible without our partners. Firstly, we’d like to thank World Surfaris and Maavahi Charters for looking after us on their remarkable charter boat. The Maavahi is a traditional Maldivian vessel that’s well-appointed to suit any level of surfer. It is equipped with a speed boat to take you out to and pick you up from every break and check out other spots in the area once the main vessel is anchored up. The air-conditioned cabins were comfortable, with good beds and ensuites in every room, allowing a decent night’s sleep. Each meal was a banquet, so you’ll never go hungry. Lastly, everywhere we cruised, the trolling lines were set, which often meant plenty of fresh fish for the table, let alone the fun of pulling…

Buffeted by the turbulent waters of the Bass Strait, the Surf Coast of Victoria has been a fertile breeding ground for surfing talent for decades. It’s steeped in surf lore, the home of the local-brand-come-international empire Rip Curl, and the world’s longest-running surf event at the iconic Bells Beach. It’s a rugged, often windswept land of towering bluffs, winding roads and shoaling reefs, where only the true core-lord is willing to endure the teeth-chattering winter swells rolling in over the dark, ominous waters of the Southern Ocean. Beneath the jagged cliffs, at its famous temples of Bells and Winkipop, is the pure power of nature personified. It demands a raw-power rail game and a burning competitive drive to brave the elements and win the internal contest between body and mind.…

Atop a towering cliff ’s edge, bracketed by rolling fields of cane and pineapple, is the viewing platform to one of the world’s most awe-inspiring breaks, Peahi, better known by its ferocious moniker: Jaws. For decades, this mythical beast drew the imagination of big-wave surfers from across the globe, dreaming of the day it could be ridden when maxing out. It just wasn’t immediately apparent how it could be ridden. Until the early ’90s, thirty-foot-plus monsters were considered un-paddleable. A surfer needed enough speed to get on the wave face, and then safely outrun the wall of water bearing down upon them like the breath of an undertaker. It was akin to outracing an avalanche on foot. Hawaiian legend and serial boundary-breaker Laird Hamilton had been watching too. After several…

TRAVEL Three eager surfers with board bags packed and passports in hand left for our next adventure, unsure of what to expect. Throughout seven surf-filled days, we experienced more culture, gratitude, love and kindness than we could have imagined. Let me introduce ourselves: I’m Jesse Starling travelling alongside my dear friends Keely Andrew and Cooper Davies. Over our week, we covered 1400+ kilometres along the South, West, and East Coast of Sri Lanka. We visited two ancient cities, surfed five incredible breaks, were introduced to countless amazing people and their beautiful culture. This is a recap of one incredible journey with three friends, a bus, and a few board bags travelling across Sri Lanka. THE WEST COAST AND THE CENTRAL REGION Travelling to new places is addictive. Anything “new” gives…

The strength of surf culture relies on the diversity of its participants. If culture means “to cultivate” 1 , a nurturing, growing and learning process is needed for our varying coastal communities to flourish. Surfing originated with Native Hawaiians (though there is evidence of ancient Peruvian fishermen catching waves over 4,000 years ago on caballito de totora—a small, elongated, woven-reed vessel).2 But, regardless of historical preference, all agree that surfing originated with a community of dark-haired, brown-skinned, brown-eyed people. Wave-craft riding expanded quickly into a Western subculture. From the weed-smokin’ seventies to the social-media-manic noughties (and beyond), surf media is shifting from featuring young, blonde-haired, tanned fellas to females and more marginalised groups. Our saltwater pastime is full-throttle popular; crowds worldwide pursue this aquatic adventure-oriented activity. Does surfing…

We hit the Maldives for this year’s Surfing Life Board Bible, a nation of islands in the Indian Ocean that would feature in most surfers’ top ten. The equator-hugging archipelago is home to about five per cent of the Earth’s reefs, making the ideal backdrop to test our six shortboards. This “ultimate surf ” destination offers a variety of rippable reef breaks and reliable swell through the middle of the year when Australian waters can be unreliable. With baked-in bathymetry of hundreds of reef passes, we could take advantage of swell and wind directions, ensuring every day is a winner. We jumped onboard the Maavahi Charters, owned and operated by local Maldivian surfer Mickey Nattz. Mickey is the best host in the Maldives for surfing, and his 85-foot-long traditional Maldivian…