Innholdsfortegnelse for #354 Surfers i Surfing Life

BRAD HUTCHINS If you've read Barbarian Days, then you know I'm about to say, "William Finnegan". If you haven't read it, then your homework has been set. Empty Nias. Empty Restaurants. Kirra in the ’70s. J-Bay in the ’80s. Packing Honolua Bay pits while high on acid, not to mention the endless adventure and exploration in between. Iconic. KATE MCMAHON There aren't many humans who are considered The Greatest of All Time at their certain something who don't get peppered with tall poppy taunts, or who are completely void of clickbait antics. But Stephanie Gilmore is one of them. So, not only would I love to know how to ride a wave so beautifully dynamic, but to also show you can be the best without being an entitled tool. Plus,…

Is the surf industry still in its infancy? We don’t have to look too far back to see how it all started. In fact, most of the people who started a surf business to fund their habit are still with us. Guys like Doug “Claw” Warbrick, Bob McTavish, Gordon Merchant and the list goes on. This group of layabouts wanted to do nothing more than live near the ocean and surf, so they worked out how to achieve it and, hey presto, the surf industry and media began. In Australia, the birth of surfing mags was a by-product of surfing films. Initially created to support popular surf films, the mags sold out as they were as popular as their film counterpart. When the surfing industry shifted its focus from making…

What do you think surf teams will look like in the future? Team surfers will be paid to do absolutely nothing: not have stickers on their boards, wear anything from anyone they like, free to come and go with the rising of the swell, and to knock back a few coldies in the arvo satisfied with a day well spent in the ocean. Oh wait, that’s JobKeeper. If by the future you mean medium term, that depends on the WSL for a brand like Rip Curl. We believe in the World Tour, we love it. It’s the number one place to have an interest in pro surfers, because it provides focus and coverage and competition. Even when people say that they don’t like the Tour, they are talking about the…

EDITORIAL Josh Allen John Andrews Tim Baker Russell Bierke Chris Binns Will Bendix Daniel Brennan Brad Bricknell Michael Ciaramella Liz Clark Noah Cohan Chris Coté Hayden Cox Andy Davis Keiran Deck Rambo Estrada Sosefina Fuamoli Matt George Joey Griffiths Kaipo Guerrero Tim Hawken Lauren Hill Dan Holloway Jake Howard Brad Hutchins Craig Jarvis Jonathan Jenkins Scott Johnstone Candice Land Jesse Little Craig Macintyre Torren Martyn Mark Mathews Andrew McKinnon Kate McMahon Toby Mossop Graeme Murdoch Marcus Paladino Taylor Paul Chris Peel Rod Perez Derek Rielly Michael Saunders Steve Shearer Craig Sims Chas Smith Jed Smith Surfcore2001 Luke Surplice Alan van Gysen Roxanne Williams Kerry Wright Sam Zubevich PHOTOGRAPHIC Jack Barripp John Barton Scott Bauer Leroy Bellet Peter Bohler Peter Boskovich John Brumfield Chris Burkard Josh Burkinshaw Josh Bystrom John Callahan…

If sharks had arms, instead of tasting with their nose. Then they could swim up and poke us, or tickle our toes. Instead they, well, we’ve seen the news this year. Eat us? How dare they! How dare animals eat. How dare they snatch Homo sapiens, the demigods of this realm, back into the lowly cesspit of the food chain! Yes, the mighty human ego seems to be at the heart of the great shark debate. Nothing like an existential threat to trigger the ego. Fuelled by a feeding frenzy of click-bait media, attacks lurk in the shallows of our subconscious. It’s a spectre in the minds of all surfers. We’ve never been so scared of our own shadows. Shark attacks strike a primal chord that we haven’t felt for…

Ever dream of getting published and writing for Australia’s most influential surf mag? Got a great surfing travel tale or perhaps a surf-inspired poem? Well here’s your chance. TWO OPPORTUNITIES TO WIN • POETRY CATEGORY• SURF TRAVEL SHORT STORY CATEGORY End the year with a bang! Boom! Or some other onomatopoeia. We are proud to announce our inaugural Writing Comp to encourage all ages and stages to chase their literary endeavours. Here are the comp details: WIN $150 in SL’S UP NEXT POETRY CATEGORY Write a poem of no more than 25 lines (it doesn’t have to rhyme). WIN $500 in SL’S SURF TRAVEL SHORT STORY CATEGORY Write a short true story (1500 maximum word count) about surf travel. It could be funny, serious, or Bob Marley (gnarly). The Surfing…

ONE OF 10 SETS OF 3DFINS TO GO IN THE DRAW, ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS BE A SUBSCRIBER. IF YOU’RE NOT ONE, SUBSCRIBE NOW AND GET THE MAG DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR. EVERY ISSUE. IT’S A NO-BRAINER. $59 1 YEAR 6 ISSUES FREE POSTAGE WHY SUBSCRIBE? • You never miss an issue• Your copy gets delivered to your door before it’s on the store shelves• You are automatically entered into every prize draw • It’s easier and cheaper• It makes a perfect gift• Each issue contains essential content created to inform and enhance your surfing life• Free Postage in Australia TO SUBSCRIBE: www.surfinglife.com.au/subscribe DIGITAL EDITIONS | BACK ISSUES: www.surfinglife.com.au/shop TRAVEL | CULTURE | WAVES | TECHNIQUE | BOARDS | SURFERS To be eligible to win, all you have…

SIGNED BY THE AUTHOR NEW WAVE VISION SIGNED BY HAYDEN COX From his backyard at 15 to building an awardwinning global company and a No. 1 best-selling surfboard brand, this book is about creating something—no matter your passion, age, or industry. PRICE: $34.95 KONG SIGNED BY KONG Even among the hard-partying, hard-living characters of big wave surfing, there has never been anyone quite like Gary “Kong” Elkerton. “Elko is an epic, legendary figure in pro surfing.” - Kelly Slater. PRICE: $39.95 LIFE OF BRINE SIGNED BY PHIL JARRATT Covering 40 years of surf culture, Australian writer Jarratt rides a wave of nostalgia seamlessly from the 1960s to recent times, from one side of the planet to the other, and many points in between. PRICE: $29.95 BALI HEAVEN AND HELL SIGNED…

The Flex The least understood of the three. Being a longboard, the importance of flexing in the right place, and the correct amount has never been more vital. A bigger board means more foam and more glass and yes, more resin. A longboard is something that, if glassed too heavily, can lead to being ‘planklike’, which results in a dialed down sweet spot for paddling and performance. With the superior flex that the flax in NOTOX construction gives us, our boards react perfectly to pressure giving the surfer greater feedback and control. NOTOX boards are more flexible. NOTOX longboards are more flexible. What are the advantages? • Greater control and precision.• Paddling, walking, turning, and surfing all become more intuitive.• You will love surfing even more than you did before.…

It was an unenviable scenario confronting the World Surf League. With their superstars spread all over the globe (not to mention their Tour stops), top-flight competitive surfing was forced into a hiatus during the bulk of the COVID-19 period. Many of its national league competitors—the NBA, NRL, EPL, etc.—were allowed to continue, spelling real trouble for the bottom line of the WSL. Faced with spending money in a sport as logistically challenged as World Tour surfing versus any number of national sporting leagues, it’s easy to see which is the safer bet for a prospective advertiser. No ad revenue means no World Tour, so there was plenty of pressure on the WSL to come up with something to keep surf fans and sponsors interested. After months of inaction, they pulled…