I was prepared to wait, to soak up1 the magical morning light as our small motorboat traveled up the Rio São Lourenço in the Pantanal, Brazil’s vast wetlands. A tangle2 of lianas, acuri palms and strangler figs3 pressed close along the riverbank. I stared into the forest, scanning for movement, for shadows, for a jaguar. But it was too soon.
Patience in the wild is a lesson I have learned over a lifetime of travel. On an African safari, for example, it can take days to spot4 a cheetah5 or a leopard.
But in Brazil, we had been out on the river for barely half an hour when the cry went up from Gabriel, the captain: “Jaguar!”
And there he was, a magnificent male sunning6 himself in the reeds7. I…
